wolfe10

Did he downsize total amp-hrs? One 8D 12 VDC is very close to the same capacity as two "golf cart" 6 VDC batteries in series. So, he could have kept the same capacity or he could have downsized.

Look at your Allison shift pad (assuming this is a diesel coach with Allison 3000 transmission). Does it illuminate as it should when you turn the key? Turn on the dash HVAC fan which I assume only runs with the key on. Does it function each time you turn the key or only when the engine tries to start. If these things are not happening as they should, the IGNITION SOLENOID or switch itself may be the culprit. If these things work, then, yes look further back in the coach. If you determine that either the ignition solenoid or ignition switch may be bad, let us know and we can walk you though troubleshooting and also emergency "work arounds".

Carl, Yes, RVSEF will be in booth 227 to sign up for weighing. I don't know how many teams they will have there. Might give them a call. RVSEF: (321) 453-7673 BTW, here is their scheduled weighing events: http://www.rvsafety.com/weighing/weighing-schedule

Contact these guys with the brand of camera/system you have: http://www.rvcams.com/ If the part is something that came with the camera, they can help. If unique to your coach, post a picture of what you have and perhaps someone else can help.

Phil, Stop by and meet other FMCA Forum members in Chandler: Forum Meet & Greet – Wednesday, 3/ 8 4:45 p.m. - 5:45 p.m. Seminar 2

Dave, A complete drop in PSI over 24-36 hours very likely IS within DOT specs. But, that doesn't make it right. I disagree that air leaks of that magnitude would be very difficult to trace. Kiddie bubbles on air fittings between tank, ride height valves and bags and bags themselves should reveal the culprit(s). As long as you have safety stands, this is well within those with even basic mechanical skill. Freightliner should be able to send you a schematic of the air system. But, I would start by contacting your local Freightliner dealer to see if they will look at it under warranty.

Blake, There is no standard "here is how all are plumbed". A two way valve works just fine: Position 1= tank fill Position 2= connected to house water line on the house side of water pump

Byron, I show you have had 4,674 profile views. You are a VERY popular guy.

pcowen, I am not sure what pumping the toad brakes achieves, as the Invisibrake (assuming proper installation) DOES pull a vacuum on the brake booster as well as apply the brake pedal. Do you have a line from the Invisibrake box that "T's" into the line from engine to brake booster to provide vacuum? And, does it work-- pull the front break-away pin and feel for vacuum.

No harm either way. When on shore water, with the pump on, the only time the pump will come on is if pressure drops below cut-in PSI.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/caterpillar-fuel-pump

Lloyd, As Dave asked, do you have a Caterpillar manual primer pump? And, if so have you tried pumping it? And to pump it, unscrew (counter clockwise) the knurl nut. Then pump in/out. If easy you have air in the system. It will go from very easy to VERY hard to pump all of a sudden as fuel is non-compressible. Be sure to push the knurl nut all the way in and screw it in clockwise when you are finished or you will have a fuel leak.

defrue, Welcome to the FMCA Forum and FMCA. It usually takes a couple of weeks to get your FMCA "eggs", as they have to be custom made.

Yes, if the leak is in part of your pressurized water system, it will still leak with the water pump on/shore water off. That is unless the leak was caused by very high water pressure. Did you have a pressure reducer on the shore water connection? And, with the pump on, if there is a leak, you will hear the pump cycling when it should not. Not sure that a tech would have better search skills than you with a flashlight and paper towels/tissue paper around the "likely suspects".

JT, Yes, to deglaze brakes (which can happen if the exhaust brake is used and service brakes are not use, except lightly) is to apply them firmly (not lock-up, but firmly) a couple of times. If that doesn't work, the next step is to pull the drums on drum brakes pads on disk brakes and rough up the shoes/pads and drums/disks with 80 grit sand paper to remove the glaze. VERY unlikely you need new shoes/pads unless they are oil-soaked (another issue).

No. Here is what I have on the 3rd filter/strainer, and only on Freightliner chassis: •Cummins Fuel Strainer: Every Cummins ISB02 RV from FCCC since 9/2002 has a fuel strainer/filter on frame rail: 025-RAC 10.

That would be a CUMMINS (no g) B engine. Unless you know the age and condition of the two fuel filters, change both of them. Draining and/or changing is ONLY with the engine OFF.

OK, yes you will have the 3000 series Allison in a 1998. The 1989 has us thrown-- since the electronic 3000 series was not even in development back then. OL and 70 indicate that the transmission is too cold for an accurate fluid level to be done. Usually have to drive at least 25 highway miles before the electronic fluid level sensor will activate. What engine do you have? If issues when you go to WOT (wide open throttle) change the fuel filters. If they are starting to clog, the symptoms will first appear when you call for max fuel flow rate.

That has to be one interesting 1989 coach. The Allison 6 speed electronic transmission would not even be on the market for a couple of years after that. Is the drivetrain OE or has it been replaced.

Yes, used existing wiring. Got adapters for each end per Tim's recommendation. Call him with exactly what system and coach you have. Certainly the place to start!

Totally agree on calling Tim at RV.cams FIRST. While you may be able to use a wireless system, if Tim can direct you to adapters that will allow you to use the existing wiring in the coach and just replace the camera and monitor, that is a lot better. That is exactly what I did-- used existing wiring and just replaced the camera and monitor on our last coach.

Strats, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your 1989 Allison will not be an electronic 6 speed transmission, but one of their mechanical 4 speed transmissions. It is a basic mechanical transmission and very well built.

Carl, We are seriously considering selling the coach and going back to the sailboat (The sailboat is lonely just sitting in Kemah and remembers several great trips to the Bahamas). Will probably list the coach for sale right after the FMCA Chandler. Should be a quick sale-- as you would suspect, it is in extremely good condition. With our last two coaches, had people standing in line when we sold them.

If you are looking for a high-amp, quality disconnect, here you go: http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/99/heavy_duty_battery_disconnect_switch/ Rated 450 amps continuous. 1200 amps intermittent. Used them for years on our boats.

Check voltage with a digital voltmeter from both sides of the battery disconnect switch to positive terminal of battery. Compare with reading from battery positive to negative terminal.