wolfe10

Yes, using a 15 amp male to 30 amp female adapter AND a 30 male to 50 female adapter will power things in your motorhome. If, as I suspect you have, this is an inverter/charger, when it is plugged into the house, the inverter/charger will keep charged the house bank and MAYBE the chassis battery (the second less likely). The 120 VAC will also be "passed through" to those circuits down stream of the inverter/charger.

Thanks Chris. Makes perfect sense.

Getting back to the "use a 120vac adapter on the 240 vac 50amp power": We need to figure out exactly what 240 VAC power source you are talking about. Is this an RV 50 amp receptacle that your coach is plugged into and you are asking if, when plugged in will your inverter keep the batteries charged? If so, we need to know what inverter or INVERTER/CHARGER you have. Some inverters have built in chargers, some do not. And, if you are not plugging your coach into a 50 amp RV outlet, what 50 amp 240 VAC outlet are you using? Separate issue-- some coaches have both house and chassis batteries charged by built in systems, some just charge the house batteries.

The FMCA Michelin program has always included tires for all motorhomes and many other vehicles as well. A's, B's and C's. Same for the FMCA Continental tire program.

OK, getting awfully close to discussing politics here. Let's get back on the "ROAD" discussion. Thanks.

No, Chevrolet had nothing to do with the paint choices. Chevrolet shipped Safari a bare chassis. The "house" and paint job were by Safari who is long out of business.

I apologize for answering a question by sending someone to another website, but there is an excellent Safari Trek forum where they may be able to help: http://www.trektraxs.com/

kdelpierre, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what engine you have-- gas, diesel? If diesel, yes the least expensive first step and one that is a common cause of this is clogged fuel filter(s). Change them.

Rex, Check voltage at the start batteries when someone tries to start it. Are the batteries on a charger (from shore power)? And, as Herman said be VERY careful starting with any batteries removed, as the alternator will have the lead from battery isolator to batteries HOT. You don't want to arc weld!

Yes, that manual primer pump mounts on a Caterpillar fuel filter head. No Caterpillar fuel filter, no place to mount it. BTW, there are other manual primer pumps made by Racor and others.

As long as there is no air leak (hose, filter removal, etc) fuel will not drain back to the tank. As I mentioned, one of the very best additions to any diesel fuel system is a ball valve on the inlet to the primary/only fuel filter. Close it and fuel will NOT drain back to the tank when the filter is removed. And, I am a firm believer in two fuel filters, the primary between tank and lift pump and secondary between lift pump and injection pump/engine. And, if a Caterpillar, their manual primer pump which puts an absolute end to this problem. In fact, in writing, if your coach has the manual primer pump, Caterpillar recommends installing BOTH filters dry and using the manual pump to prime. IT WORKS (had this system on two DP's).

From my post above: Also, be aware that if the level of fuel in the tank is lower than the filter head, when you remove the filter, fuel will flow all the way back to the tank, leaving you with 25+ feet of AIR. If this is the case, it may no prime with "normal methods". The solution if this is the case is to either loosen the bleed valve on the primary fuel filter or just loosen the filter element a little. Use compressed air in the fuel tank fill-- just put your hand over the opening with the air nozzle between thumb and index finger. All you need is 1-2 PSI-- enough to drive fuel through the line. Of course the best long-term solution is a ball valve on the inlet side of the secondary fuel filter. When changing fuel filters, just shut it off. Also, makes a heck of a good theft proofing!

How many amps does it draw with fuse #32 in? If a reasonably-sized charge line from coach to toad battery will solve it, that is no big deal.

F434472, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have. And, assume you are talking about the entrance/outside door.

Yes and no. The HEUI pump does use oil to substantially increase fuel pressure for injection. But, it has to have diesel, not air, to allow the engine to start and run.

Also, query the transmission for diagnostic codes. Ignition on, engine off. Push the up and down arrows at the same time. Repeat. That should bring up d-1. If a stored code, it will be a two digit/two digit code. If -- there is no stored code. If there is a d-1, hit "mode" to bring up d-2. Repeat until you get - -. Turn off the ignition and let us know what you find.

Angel Fire WILL be cooler. 8,400'. Not sure about "better"-- depends on your interests.

With the Caterpillar manual primer pump, no need to open a bleed screw. It primes through the engine, check valve and back the return line to the tank. It will go from easy (air is compressible) to very hard in a couple of strokes (fuel pushing against the check valve is not compressible). But it may take 50-75 strokes to get rid of the air. Also, be aware that if the level of fuel in the tank is lower than the filter head, when you remove the filter, fuel will flow all the way back to the tank, leaving you with 25+ feet of AIR. If this is the case, it may no prime with "normal methods". The solution if this is the case is to either loosen the bleed valve on the primary fuel filter or just loosen the filter element a little. Use compressed air in the fuel tank fill-- just put your hand over the opening with the air nozzle between thumb and index finger. All you need is 1-2 PSI-- enough to drive fuel through the line. Of course the best long-term solution is a ball valve on the inlet side of the secondary fuel filter. When changing fuel filters, just shut it off. Also, makes a heck of a good theft proofing!

jpaflag, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have a Caterpillar secondary fuel filter? Does it have a manual primer pump? If so, use it to prime the fuel system.

Aheart, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since you are on an Isuzu chassis, I would start with sites offering parts of the Isuzu.

To clarify: Tongue weight (weight on the coach) is applied to GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) as well as GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Toad weight (carried on the toad's 4 wheels is applied to GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating).

What batteries do you currently have (number and size)? Do you boondock, or just go from CG to CG? Are the batteries in a location where you can get to them to check water level? In other words, tell us more about what your battery needs are.

Yes, many have done this modification. As long as the sway bar is still roughly parallel to the ground, no problem. It (actually, any sway bar for that matter) will not adversely affect ride quality as it only come into play when one wheel moves vertically different than the other wheel on that axle. Said another way, if both wheels go over the same bump, the sway bar does NOTHING/added zero to spring rate.

Let me clarify. This has nothing to do with how answers are posted on the FMCA Forum. But, one of the options everyone has is to receive e-mail notifications of all posts on threads of interest. An excellent tool if one has a specific technical issue and wants to immediately be notified of any posts on that thread. The complaints come in when that person's phone goes off multiple times a day and not one of the posts is relevant to his issue. Here is where one can select notification options: http://community.fmca.com/notifications/options/

Guys, PLEASE. I have received a raft of complaints about off-topic replies to posts. Remember, many receive e-mail updates on every post on threads of interest to them. It has to be very irritating to have a technical problem and receive 10+ off topic replies e-mailed to them.