rsbilledwards

I guess I should look at mine only 20K but 18 years old and absurdly expensive with no cross over to a Wix Gold. When I do change it ( I will look today) I will retro fit a Wix that I can buy during the annual NAPA Wix Gold filter sale at 50% of retail.

I second the motion~! I too joined for the Motorhome aspect not fiver information. I joined for info new and old but not for trailers. Trailers are fine but I do not want a magazine about coaches diluted all kinds of stuff related to fifth wheels and trailers. How many articles do we see today about older coaches and what some have done in upgrading them to modern standards? There is more to this subject than is being used...just sayin it is not all about new it should be about where we have been as well. Raise the the rate

No Bill it is a flat floor no turn Table The next year had a turntable. Coach only has just over 20K on it now . A shame to pitch it, actually might take it down to the shop so I can heat my lunch when I am here in the winter...no plans for that any where in the future. B

Wonderful as I too wondered about that More use a commin! The only thing I have to change it because ours does not have a carousel and I think that is important. B

It is pretty hard to do only 250/300 miles in the west unless there is dry camping along the way. As another that likes meeting people and just really getting started on this wheeled journey our doors are also open. We just returned from the Pacific Northwest, again, with 60 pounds of fresh King Salmon and 20 Dungeness crabs for the winter feed. oops some will be left over since we can't take it all to Arizona great thread B

Some of this note will relate some perhaps not. It was written to another Safari owner with suspension leaks. Yes I have been through this drill as well. This Panther would not hold any air for much over 2 hours and then, down flat. In the process of hunting down leaks I changed many of the compression fittings to push to connect fittings. I did not use DOT approved fittings since the system is not designed with brakes. The very first thing I did and for two reasons was change the front air bags. I did not like the manner in which they deflated during the early part of their life. More importantly the kinks that they had developed just sitting for years un inflated for who knows how long at a time. Suffice to say they did not roll down/collapse nicely and evenly. It cost something around $225 per bag. That is not bad when Monaco wants $1,100 each. I did not use Goodyear bags either but German made ones. That is another good story and a learning curve. Installation was easy enough only took a couple of hours total for the four in front. I might add that none of the bags had fractures in them. I changed the fittings to push to connect on the front air control valve for the front end, small leak. With bed lifted there is a valve in the center cross member (look down and forward) between the two dump valves that was a big leaker. It was replaced with a much smaller unit and this was the largest single leak. I replaced the pressure relief check valve in the rear portion of the air tank as it too was a leaking. I believe I upped the pressure value to 110 or 120 PSI. System actually runs on 90 PSI. I did this for future addition of air chucks to inflate tires. I replaced the air regulator on the front side of the Bendix compressor. It is at this point that the system air pressure can be adjusted by removing the funky looking cap on top. These fail with some degree of regularity on the trucking industry and so have a new spare as well. I added an air drier so I did not have to remember to drain system periodically and regularly as all compressered air contains some moisture dependent upon where one lives, some or a lot. For me this would have been a real chore! I am not habitual, habits are tough to follow. Now this last exercise resolved the largest part of the problem and I haven't a clue as to why. I installed an air restriction valve on each airbag. These coaches and many of the early airbag coaches tend to lean a lot in longer curves. My driving style tends to exacerbate this issue and drive both of us crazy. I am learning to slow down but have a ways to go. My straight line driving is not bad pretty consistent around 60/68. It is the curvy stuff that gets Janet. So these valves restrict the exiting air and slow the roll substantially making for a much nicer ride. I just clipped/cut the air lines just above the inlet to the bags and slipped them in line and vertical. I clipped some excess line out in a couple places to make them sit more vertical than they would have originally.This was also the most difficult on the rear, where the access to the top of the bags are inside the support strut. I did not change the compression fittings inside the rear struts, too difficult. I did however have to remove the outer wheel...and pull the mud flaps up. The latter 2 an SOB job. This has virtually solved the last of the leaking. The coach will stand on its own air now for a week + and be down to 60 PSI. I might add that the cutter tool, same one used to cut PEX tubing is available from Home Depot for 8 or 10 bucks, cheap and red handled. These air and water systems like square cuts so the tubing goes all the way in and flat bottoms in the fittings.. Suspension air tubing is 3/8, the smaller is 1/4 on our coaches. McGuyver

To clarify this a bit further. Air was used for the parking brake on air bag coaches only as it they had an engine driven compressor. Some of the SMC coaches had a disc brake set up that was problematic.The pads would not float or slide on the pins and would end up at odd angles hanging on the pins and not approach the disc at a perpendicular angle. Subsequently wear was inconsistent and pads would need changing prematurely. My Panther pads were worn out at 12 thousand miles and one pad had zero pad at the top and 5/16 at the bottom which is near what it had new. Somewhere along the line SMC went back to the drum and shoe variety which were trouble except when operators drove with the brake on.

Safari never used air for anything other than the parking brake. All Safaris of 2002 and earlier are hydraulic over hydraulic. Yes there is a switch below at the master cylinder kind of a maroon color top.

Bill, I did the first coach with LED clearance lights from Napa 16 LEDs and the correct radial profile. The Panther I shopped Amazon and found the correct profile and used the double bullseye version. The price was great but had to but 20 I believe. They come in lesser numbers of LEDs for same money and look the same. I happened to like the really bright ones hence the 16 LED variety. Some are china made others not Bill E

I spoke with ITR International Thermal Research they said, "odd one" There are only three symptoms that cause this, aqua-stat, water pump not running and low water/coolant/air bubble. Since the latter 2 are correct must be the first so parts on the way. Use of the system is 800 hours so that is not much but they also said time could be an element and I would concur. Yes thanks Joe.

WOW>>>

For me this is a great thread and a steep learning curve...fore warned is fore armed so now I think I will for the future drive a much later coach like a Newell or Prevost. I did not realize what I experienced a couple years back when at the end of Flathead Lake trying to get into a very nice park up on the hill...gated and with a twoway talk system. I rang the bell, they answered and asked what year coach I said 2001, (the Zanzibar) and the conversation immediately became too scratchy (as in not working noisy) to understand anything. We left after a bit since no one came down or the gate did not unlock.

Beautiful coach and a great reason to buy these older coaches is that they were built with real naturally finished wood not finished to look like something it is not. Old style styling really shows of the craftsmanship we used to see. It is not tall either which will save you money sailing down the highways and bi-ways enjoying the scenery and your new found hobby. We too have a 1999 coach and love it. Glad to have you along with the group.

Bill, that is not necessarily true but maybe. The styrofoam insulation under the luan is enough to make it feel like 7/16 OSB but in a real stiff windy situation I do not think I would be very comfortable with just the screws and a little sticky stuff. I used a molly on the Z and the Panther, luan was the underlayment.

I have been there and if you PM me I will explain an in depth solution. Believe me you will be amazed at what you will find from construction and an improvement in air movement. I have two coaches one a 2001 Zanzibar and a 1999 Panther. Yes the Z needs a new home Bill

CARL it needs oil on a bearing

That is a good question and worth asking. Many roofs below the outer skin are thin and are Luan or similar thin 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch thick. Some are 1/2 inch plywood which is great because that you can safely screw the Z brackets to and not wonder when the panel will leave. It will most likely stay on the Luan if it sits low and has some protection from other roof top members. Luan is often used as a flooring underlayment as it is thin and follows contours well. On the roof it is supported by the molded bead styrofoam and will feel very firm. If the panel is fairly small most likely the sticky stuff to seal between the bracket and roof along with the screw will be sufficient. If they are larger panels you might consider using a winged type fastener that would go through a larger hole to which you could use a real threaded screw. In any event if the screws are zinc plated, silver with a blue cast, replace them with stainless steel ( Home Depot or Lowes) as the latter will not rust. I can assure you, the zinc ones will attract moisture and will rust in short order compromising the material they are screwed into. Do not over tighten them if in Luan and that is easily done. Good luck

Thanks Brett for putting that one directly in front of as I have yet to do that on either coach what's more I will bet I am not the only one in this crowd.. B

Thank you for giving the solution as it brings this thread to a nice conclusion. I only now discovered it having been on the road. I could have shortened it a bit as I had the same issue on my Safari Zanzibar some years back. Makes you smile when "you" find the solution. Good Job!

Gosh, maybe I should post more of these kinds of instances, learning experiences... That said here is another. I was as my bio suggests in the auto repair field and generally old stuff at that so this relatively new coach and electronics is not so familiar. Here which follows is another lesson learned the hard way with few consequences...lucky me. On September 12 Robert Lewis on Safari Friends mentioned using a wire penetrating probe with which to chase electrical issues. I would suggest that there is a place that this method is sound and another where it is potentially detrimental. Just ask me how I came up with this idea. Do not probe wiring after the ECU or such electronics and walk away with out sealing the punctures. I was, still am looking for a wire that carries a signal indicating that the Jake Brake is active and on. I knew or thought I knew what I was looking for, a connection with three wires going into the head of the C 12 CAT. I poked and poked no signal. Humm and went about doing other things. While I was on the trip out West earlier this month a fault appeared on the dash telling me that the barometric pressure sensor was in a low voltage condition. I pulled over and looked about, all voltages checked out and away we went. The fault gone after shutting down. A while later it was back this time blinking and that got my attention because when dash lights blink, it is getting more serious. Making this a little shorter I called my friend and yours Dave Atherton to query him on the problem. I asked about the low voltage issue and since he knows some of the history of this coach, he said, probably a dirty connection, not that it is dirty, it is not, it is a time thing. I was the thinking don't tell him you poked all three wires because during the conversation I connected the dots that led me to the sensor wires I poked. I will tell you this all transpired over a few days and me sweating bullets every time it lit up because it could de-rate the engine at any time...each time, I turned the key off for a couple seconds and the fault would go away for a time, sometimes long and sometimes short. Lucky me it did not de-rate and I was finally able to get some sensor safe sealant and sealed up my poked spots and no more issues. Moral of the story seal up your probe points, your coach will smile upon you for doing so. I did not tell Dave what I had done. Here I should thank our friend Dave Atherton he is a terrific resource for solving not obvious problems...THANKS DAVE

September 1st we headed out from Denver to the Pacific Northwest in the Panther. Not far out on the interstate West of Glenwood Canyon I had to run over 3/4 of a truckers failed tread recap. I could not move into the opposite lane due to traffic. It was shortly after watching my left mirror that a small pickup was frantically flashing his lights. I pulled left on to the shoulder immediately to check what was up. He was yelling watch out there is gasoline all over the place (it was diesel) and yes it was all over the place. I hollered at Janet to shut the coach down. which she did. That dang tire tread wholloped itself down the right side under carriage of the coach, smacking every thing hanging down an inch or more which included the Hurricane exhaust and the secondary fuel filter. Impact to the Hurricane heater exhaust was minimal but the fuel filter was history, probably usable in a pinch if I had reinstalled the seal. The force was quick enough that the filter flexed/bent and the fuel pressure blew/rolled a small section of the seal over enough to leak quite a bit of fuel under pressure. For some reason I did not have a spare when I checked. I was only a couple miles from Glenwood Springs so asked SERI for a phone number of the O'Riley parts store to see if they had secondary filter for a C 12 CAT. They had 2, great. I unloaded the toad from the trailer and went up to the next exit and back to Glenwood Springs. I found the parts store easily and asked for the filter I had spoke about earlier and they looked at me like I was an idiot. They said I had not spoken with any one there. I got out my I phone and had a look to show them I had called...They were right SERI had me call the Leadville, Colorado store 80 miles away. OK I remind myself start over politely. Do you have...yes they had 2 as well and now I do. Back to the coach, pull out the filter wrench, reinstall the filter after refilling it and fire up the coach. Great no fuel leak but what is that hisssssing? I crawl back underneath, fuel had, by this time, stopped dripping and there in front of me were two smashed flat, ripped air lines. Fortunately for me, they were air, dump lines and one was redundant anyway. i am a nutty guy when it comes to preparedness in the coach since i have minimal faith in most repair shops. Notice I said "most" repair shops. Well back to my bag of tricks and supplies. I get out the cheapy plastic air line/PEX tubing cutter and a 1/4 inch push to connect airline fitting, cut out the redundancy install the fitting and we are good to go. I will say it was a last minute thought to put those last two items in the bag in large part because I had an M&G brake system to install on the Chevy Tracker if I had time and nothing to do on day while out West. Time lost 1 hour. For most this incident would have been a tow back to Glenwood and an undetermined wait and a $2,000 bill. Did I get the M&G installed, nope had to much fun crabbing and fishing. We took home 20 Dungeness crab and 60 pounds of Columbia River Salmon and Steelhead and that is another story.

The humor is needed just as much

Here is a dilemma, my hurricane heating boiler runs a while and then hits the high limit and shuts down. The coach is stationary and sitting dead level. All relate to boiler hitting high limit and shutting down. If the coach is sitting face heading down hill, not just out of level but greater like parked on an incline Hurricane will run until shut off. If we are driving down the highway at 65 miles an hour it will run all day. I have checked the supplied voltage at the time of shut down while stationary. It was 12.3. It has shut down at 12.8 with genset running. It should be noted that the alternator supplies power only to the chassis batteries and is not hooked to the isolator. House batteries are charged via solar or the genset and have been between 12.3 and 12.8 at a shutdown. Coolant is full and roiling/moving hard in the reservoir. I have burped the system and after that it ran until i shut it down. The next time I started it it ran for a bit over an hour and shut down. I have attempted to burp it more than once. System heat is good and all fans and registers dispensing heat. Second problem or question. Should boiler run continuously when thermostats do not call for heat, it does run continuously.. When unit shuts down at high limit, the register fans go off as well and then after a few minutes come back on. Thermostats do not shut off the boiler or put another way does not put it to sleep. I realize that there is a shut off/on switch for the entire system and that there are zone on and off switches which work appropriately. How are valves placed to have engine coolant heat the house heating system which is not the same as the dash heat? Does the Hurricane pump have to be running? I had a new control board installed at ITR International Thermal Research in Vancouver Washington not knowing this issue existed. The original board and flame sensor worked just fine and with no known issues and they ran the unit there just not long enough on an 80 degree day to expose this problem. The original flame sensor is no longer supported and I had both board and sensor changed to current to avoid the potential of being out in the boonies and being serviceable. If any one needs these good components to maintain an older system They are available . The new replacement board was $600 and the sensor $80 and a half hour labor. B

I feel a lot better now about the liquid installed and the Centramatics can hang a while longer on the wall.

J answering your questions here from my point of view. Carl has a point but I have not pulled a Stacker and won't in the near future. He drives a coach the is almost as tall as it is long so the Stacker has air broken in front of it. My coach a lot older is only 11 feet 9 inches tall without the frontal area Carl has at 13 something. I want the coach to break air for my setup, a 24 foot Featherlite. It however has a cabinet in front that takes up the best part of 2 feet and the pointy nose. I think the pointy nose is important in air control and the dissipation of the engine heat. Featherlites are not easy to come by and always seem to bring minimum of 50% of new regardless of age. When I bought mine it was 10 tears old, loaded and i paid $9,500 and another 1500 having a side rehabbed. Tongue weight is another thing because the builders expect you to put the weight over the wheels and you are going to distribute it completely different way...ask me how I know. The tongue will be greater than you think. Now that has to go somewhere and these coaches generally have a long tail and a lot of weight back there. The coach will suffer over time with that load whacking away on the ball and hitch as you hit bumps and poorly designed bridge abutments. As you can see from my profile i probably look at these things a little differently than most. I am not an engineer but am of that ilk. There is a solution to the problem and to mitigate the weight addition to the coach that I mentioned in the previous post. The other issue is stopping and the combined weight of the Mini, the trike and the trailer are surely going to be greater the 4,000 pounds you estimate. The drum brakes on the trailer are little more than "WHOA" brakes, there is better out there and another conversation. I might add that my coach is not a tag axle coach but it does have a really big power plant equal to MR. Carl's big buggy. How does a cross wind affect you? Yes it will some and you will be concentrating and busy. This will certainly depend upon the coach you select, its suspension, and tires. Some are going to be a lot better than others for sure unfortunately there are no manuals to read for help. Parking in rest areas no problem all the lanes are longer than you are. Getting fuel, i have been in absolutely crazy places and have always been able to get myself out...my better half thinks I am really nuts sometimes but it has always worked out. That isn't to say i have driven past still looking. Buying fuel at Pilot or flying J is the crazy thing to do and I know a lot of folks make that their easy place, in and out and pay for the convenience....it is not for me. To use your words I "whip it around" a lot. Camp grounds that is again another story. East it is a problem, but it depends where. Around Gettysburg, plenty of room to leave the trailer and park the coach in a designated spot other places, "are you kidding how long?" West of the Mississippi river less of an issue and the Western states Colorado West not much of a problem and Arizona big coaches abound. We are dry campers and look so as not to spend. BLM has thousands of acres to explore and little to no facility charges. Most of the time no water or E juice just free space and sun. Just off hand I think you are expecting more hassles than you will find.If you come West the mini will be the limiting factor as to what you see and can do, ask me how I know. First time I went to Arizona I went with a VW Corrado and a Honda 500 Rubicon turned sideways in front, this time a Chevy Tracker. The tracker was not my first choice but what I got away with as there are two of us in this party. Look forward to talking with you Bill Edwards