rsbilledwards

What trans is in the coach, Allison, then possibly a fuse in the VIM below the key pad. All the above suggestions are valid. You have to trace it down. It does make a difference which cable is attached first. Ask me how I know. Please post the solution or resolution to help us all. Thanks, B

Please see PM upper right corner of your screen

Wow nice What is in store for it? What kind of power plant? 40 thousand miles I say great in spite of what might need to be done. I hope you are handy and needed a new hobby like the rest of us here. Yes welcome. It will be fun following this ride. Pleeaase keep us posted.

Hey Carl gettin serious now "My Linda" Nice

Southwind, I agree with Brett no need. Is your basement heated? Look under the coach and see if any plumbing joints, ie, white plastic connections, valves are exposed. If they are then winterize! If it is PEX tubing that is exposed it will swell if frozen and then return to size after the thaw. How many times it will accommodate this action I do not know. Yes as Blakeloke said leave the furnace on inside and open all cabinet doors and drawers, especially where there is plumbing. If you can separate the bedroom from the rest of the coach close the door unless there is plumbing, no need to heat that. In the park hooked up, I would use a small 1500 watt electric heater as opposed to the furnace and your propane. They are inexpensive from Home Depot or Lowes. Common sense says to pull all blinds and the front curtain to reduce the glass exposure. Depending on where the fresh water tank is relative to outside exposure I would drain it. If it is internal like my coach and placed between the chassis rails then it will not freeze, it will be an asset to maintaining a stable temperature be. Be sure to check the lower part of the sewer system an be sure no liquid is there to freeze. Again it is related to the freeze exposure location. In my book, the black water and grey water tanks should be drained. In Durango and the high country of the Rockies predicted temperatures are but an educated guess and can change in a couple hours for better or much worse. Durango is no exception!

Carl. My coach will not move either until air pressure reaches 60/65 PSI. It is at that point the park break will release. Initially pressure was 90. My peak pressure now is 110 enough to air the tires. Your air system at the ranch that you will replace needs some study before assembly and burying it. You do not want to do it with plastic that has glued joints. That part of it placed underground may not be a problem, there, but it can be a problem above ground. The combination of the glued joints, the oil and air internally create a condition discovered in numerous body shops around the country over time. The oil air mixture reacts with the glue and erodes the joints and ultimately failure and FIRE and an explosive condition. The pipe in and of itself will contain the pressure. My thought is to use white PEX tubing and SharkeBite fixtures. The Pex can be bought by the roll and in thousand foot rolls. I woulds also use 3/4 inch 1 inch best as the pressure loss over a distance would be less. Fittings readily available at Home Depot or Lowes. Once you reach the barn or RV shed branch to smaller and with your talent it just requires a plastic tubing cutter and a screwdriver. Smaller sizes can be in colors like red or blue. Do not use steel, you know it rusts and copper it makes heat as the air travels through it. Heat of course will pick up any moisture condensed in the piping. It has been used extensively when a drier is in the system. I use it in the body shop worked fine. It ro can be bought in long rolls, soft copper for water in well systems and under ground but expensive. Pex and SharkeBites may equal in cost. B

Brett, The brake air could be easily regulated though I do not know the DOT regulations pertaining to this. There may be an upper and lower limit. My coach Hydraulic over Hydraulic as are many I suspect could benefit.

Well that could be correct but I have not had to trouble shoot my coach there as of yet. Yes Bret many of the functions are controlled by the small in out relays two posts only that flutter when there is a problem until they die. But that said in the battery box or the engine bay there is a control module, black that has 6 covered fuses in it. It is very non-descript and easily overlooked if you do not know what it is. Have a look for it. Please see a PM

Crown if you can find them make a far superior Battery...NAPA batteryis are pretty good but not like they used to be...I use the automotive versions only

The regulator on the compressor can be set higher to do the job. It is my understanding and I'm sure to be corrected, is that the pressure in the bags is regulated by the air valves which adjust for height not necessarily for pressure. There fore the regulator can be adjusted to a higher pressure to accommodate airing up your tires to prescribed or desired pressures. B

Magnum also makes a monitor to do the same thing. It is my contention that if the solar is sized correctly there is no need to fire up the gen set to do what you paid the solar to do... Yes the Trimetric RV2030 is a good one as is the companion charger. It makes for an efficient and relatively inexpensive set up. Just ask me how I know B

Well I finally looked and there was a Carquest in the container, Who knows when that was changed but using that number I have a conversion to WIX. Current retail is 90 bucks and on the WIX sale $45 great...best I could do on the 3126 B CAT was $90 on sale. The condition was time to replace, not bad but ready to be replaced.

I am a flooded battery guy, just do not like the cost of an AGM when a pair of good flooded Crown 260s will go 10 years with proper attention and the Trojan 105s will come close. A watering system is a must. Your use needs and available space are going to be the guiding elements in what you do. AGMs do not like cold, but hey who camps in the cold on purpose...it is a consideration. 80 watts We are dry campers and have a full solar array totaling 960 watts, 6 panels @ 260 watts each and 780 AMP hours of battery, half is usable. Last winter we dry camped 96 days. (4 of these panels are adequate for most needs and 4 6 volt batteries.) If campground rates were $40 a night = $3,840 I paid for the system last winter, first time out. Who says the recovery time is a long time out. I will say this, there are many installers that will install a system that does not work adequately and buyers need to use the generator to get the job done. We used the gen set 4 times to run the AC units on 4 90+ degree days only For your own edfication and gain solar knowledge that works, read handybobsolar.com, initially the charging puzzle.

Mine is not registered as a commercial unit but it is registered and owned by an LLC. There was no implication that a CDL was necessary to drive it. But I will check tomorrow on those particulars.

In the East are coaches required to stop at weigh stations?

Now I like that pretty cool! First dolly I have seen that I would consider.

Glad you got right on the problem but that is what you guys do right...Good no withdrawl problems an Airdale Navy Boy

I am titled in Montana under an LLC. Older coaches, a great deal, one time permanent registration, no sales tax or other annual fees. Yearly fee to maintenance the LLC still way less than where we live. Insurance is through Miller insurance, advertises in FMCA and was a player at FMCA rally in Chandler, very good. Happy all the way around

One of the best additions to any coach that does not have one and has air for bags or brakes is the air drier. It is not difficult nor expensive and will at some point save you a lot of the green stuff. No more remembering to drain your air tank. It is all automatic. In any climate some maintenance as with anything. It's one of the first projects I did on my old/new Safari Panther since it only had 11,767 on it when I drove it home. Bill

Thanks Joe, When you find the skirts let me know I would use a set too.

Great post See you in January B

For those that do not know Herman allow me to introduce the oldest next to dirt 80 something year old energizer Bunny. He was the leader of the Coach Parkers at the last Rally Janet and I went to, I think. He is one of the youngest hardest working old Bunnys I have ever seen...he was everywhere at the same time it seemed. He is one of those examples we all should take notice of and is under appreciated!!! He tries his best to lead by example. well done Herman. Hope I don't get in trouble now... B

"No rubber hoses" Sorry B you want what the building trades call a "jelly hose" they do not kink, and are easily coiled in warm or cold weather. Available at Home Depot and Lowes. You can see the webbing in the hose. Not expensive

Some of you I suspect might have fun with this one. I suggest and propose that you make your own. Last winter while in the High Jolly camp ground I fabricated some side window and front window shades that snap on. They fit fine and looked good but the Magne Shade I will admit look even better and I suspect require much less effort to install. After discovering the Magne Shade I am now revising what I did. Ah yes a little more time to be spent perfecting a good thing. The Solar Screen I used was 90% blockage was purchased from Quality Window Screen.com. with numerous colors to choose from. The binding was a vinyl colored to match the screen color of tan, a nice match to our coach and bought from another supplier. I have purchased 10 N45 Rare Earth 1 1/4 by 3/8 thick magnets for the outside through Amazon. I will have to trim the original screens to fit the windshield a bit tighter as they extend beyond to accommodate the snaps which will also need to be eliminated. These magnets are to be sewn into pockets on the back side of the screen. Not cheap $10+ each. They really have incredible holding power. Using one of these on each side of the glass is overkill by a lot. So I am going to try a 1 1/4 by 1/8 on the inside retained with 3M sticky automotive molding tape. Yes I will make a test panel. I can tell you the larger magnets, do not get them close to each other, period. They are a real bugger to separate and you will not separate them with your fingers. Just ask me how I know. That said spacing will be important. I am going to use 4 magnets across the top. I know from pictures that Magne Shade appears to use more magnets so maybe they are not as strong and maybe a good idea. I used a vintage Mini-Singer sewing machine, built in the 1950's and powered it with the use of the solar I have installed on the coach via the inverter though not much of a power draw. So the solar screen and binding did not present much resistance to this little old jewel. The only awkward thing was the bulk of the material on a small table un-like what Kay and I have at home in our shops. If this is successful I will revisit all the screens I made out there in the warm winter Arizona sun. I made a set of tire shades tan too and am seriously going to look at using magnets to retain them as well. I see no reason that they can not be glassed in to the fiberglass fender wells and be a permanent fixture. Glassed in they will be protected and out of the environment. What's more I could use the bar style and have more linear surface to attach to. More to come McGuyver

I used a dolly at first and hated it, probably because it was an older, whose name was it, no idea. I have trailered more because it allows for all the toys to go too. Toys: Honda 90 Trail bike, Bicycle, ATV, Car VW Corrado, now Chevy Tracker, and of course the Canoe and related gear. If you dry camp with solar in the desert you have to have something to do and at Alamo Lake one of Arizona's best bass fishing lakes all the stuff came into play.