wayne77590

As Joe stated. Also take the cover off on the inside and look up into the plenum. You should not see any daylight. Sometimes you cannot see where there may be a separation of the insulating tape used to seal the area. You can buy AC tape at Lowes or Home Depot and re-tape all the seams, crevices and corners to see if that stops it. Cheap fix if that is the problem.

I would think that an air leak will cause the compressor to continuously run. That could possibly cause another problem of the air compressor failing. Finding and fixing the leak is the most logical solution. Do not be afraid of the brakes locking up if you completely loose pressure. The coach will come to a gradual stop, not an abrupt screeching stop. That is a problem in itself as it may not stop in time to avoid hitting another vehicle in front of the coach. The foot brake has far more stopping power but without air it is not going to function properly.

Back on topic. To MIkey, did you find a solution yet?

Trust me, it is strapped in and tight against retainers. I use foam on the straps rounding the corner. It is anchored securely when traveling.

I will not post my weight but I'll say it's about 25 more than you. Ouch! But then, I'm not short and I'm not tall either. I am a little wide.

Round is a shape!

I have had dish for more than a decade and I have not had any problem with them. Then, I don't tell them I'm taking the receiver from the house. I have been happy with dish. Consider that there is no dome on the market that will receive all three satellites that Dish uses, 110, 119, and 129, and no dome that will receive Direct HD. With that said I have the Carryout and I have been very satisfied with it. I wish I could receive all three satellites at the same to so I could enjoy the full functionality of the VIP 722 DVR. My next antenna would be the Traveler which is a roof mounted open faced automatic antenna and it does receive all the DIsh satellites. Winegard provides a chart of all the antennas and what receivers goes with what antennas. Some support all the receivers and others specific receivers. The Carryout I have is the original one and requires a separate wired power supply. I had to purchase a heavy duty converter to power the antenna. The new Carryout G2 has a Power Inserter placed in-line with the coax cable for power.

Ah grasshopper, you mean THIS

Carl, Back at you for a wonderful Independence Day. Don't lite any duds and don't lite any fast fuses.

Could you provide the Amazon web link. I'd like to consider it. Thanks.

Nope, behind the TV. Satellite hook up is in the closet which is perpendicular to the location of the TV and 5 feet away. Back wall is all closet wall to wall. I have not even tried to remove the BR TV but It looks simple with some screws on the side of the unit with buttons over the head. I had no problem removing the TV. It was a 30" TV with an overall outside dimension of 36". Yes, two screws on top held it from falling forward, and two bolts up through the two shelf entertainment cabinet held it steady. It was of old vintage with the hump back but it was fully digital. Now with a full 36" TV in the hole on a full articulating arm makes it simple to pull out for the speakers or to get to the connections. Most newer TV's have the speakers underneath or on the sides and behind the full frame of the TV with the speakers canted out. With the TV pushed back into the slot the speakers would be covered up. It has to be pushed back and secured so the slide will come in and go out. There is about a 3" clearance for the slide. If the slide is in - no watchie TVie.

Jason, I have a 2013 Lincoln MKX which is supposed to be like the 2013 Ford Edge (Don't know about the sport) and my owners manual states to put (push button) the car into accessories mode. I run the car for 5 minutes or more, shift the gears and go from drive to revers and back to neutral, push the button to turn the engine off and then push it again to put it into accessories mode. I also make sure that I turn off all auto functioning features such as lights, windshield wipers and then I put the display, through settings, to the off position. I have had situations that when I arrive somewhere the battery is not strong enough to start the car. While I'm unhooking I hook up the Battery Minder and by the time I am unhooked it will start. What I have done to alleviate that is to stop about two hours or so on the road and start the car and let it run for five minutes. Usually it is around lunch time so it is not an inconvenience. I repeat the process for towing before we head out again. I sent an email to the Ford engineers and the reply was that in the accessory position the system acts differently (they did not explain) and the car should be in the accessories position for towing. Trust the manual. Hope that helps

I thought that in Oregon you could pump your own diesel but not gasoline. But, hey, what do I know. Someone correct me 'cause we are headed that way.

Thanks Herman. Remind me to no park next to you.

Carl, I'm not kidding. That is what service at WB told me. Doesn't matter because I got rid of that 117 pound albatross and put in a 40" LED. I still need to do the bedroom TV. There is a little 15 inch or so in there and it is tighter than a drum.

Consider what is called a "Thunder Jacket," and can be use for anxiety also. It snuggles them and calms them down.

Calling Mfg is a good start, however, most of the installations I have seen provide an access cover through one of the side cabinets/walls. Well, 99% of them, and Winnebago has been known to do things differently. Example: with our original configuration I wanted to add some devices and I called Winnebago. They said that the access to the back of the TV was behind the shower wall. Hmmm! Have to pull the shower out to get to the connections - not going to happen. I replaced the TV and added a full articulating arm. The call to Winnebago wills tart the process.

Especially where Carl and I live. All the steam from the humidity that you would like and heat to go with it.

Doesn't it depend on what you are smoking? May be an incentive to "Try." Hee hee!

I"m a year newer than you on a Freightliner chassis. There was a problem around that time with the line/connector on the air gauge under the dash. Brett actually found it when visiting my coach in storage. FL replaced the gauge and never had a problem since. Not saying that is your specific problem but it is an area to no overlook.

If you decide to camp in Palo Duro Canyon, TX, it is 10% grade for about 2 miles down to the bottom.

2nd gear downhill will push me to 3000 rpm.When I catch it I stab the brakes and slow down.

PA is not the only state that has inspectors that do not know the regulations. Back in the 80's I went for a class B CDL driving a 1 ton chevy and a TT weighing 14,000 pounds. In those days anything over 10,000 pounds being towed required a Class B. It took several inspectors including the supervisor looking at the manual while I explained what the words said. With that said, congratulations on the Class B non-CDL and KUDOS to Joe with the assist.

Mine is an Exhaust Brake and it hold well on most simple downgrades. It will drop the transmission a gear dependent on the speed I am going and typically to 4th gear as the set point and as the speed decreases to a safe transmission drop speed.. However, on long downhill grades the coach will slowly increase speed and I either have to stab the brake to bring it below what I consider the optimum speed for the grade, or down shift to the gear that will maintain control. When I have to downshift and upon leveling out the coach will stay in the gear that it has been downshifted to. I need to shift back up to 4, 5 or 6th gear and usually it is to 6th gear and let the system do what it is supposed to do. If I am using just the Exhaust Brake everything is "automatic." I leave my exhaust brake on all the time.

If DW starts complaining I'll do that. Now why don't they put a thermostat on the hot water heater. Dang it is hot.