wayne77590

Thanks Herman. Remind me to no park next to you.

Carl, I'm not kidding. That is what service at WB told me. Doesn't matter because I got rid of that 117 pound albatross and put in a 40" LED. I still need to do the bedroom TV. There is a little 15 inch or so in there and it is tighter than a drum.

Consider what is called a "Thunder Jacket," and can be use for anxiety also. It snuggles them and calms them down.

Calling Mfg is a good start, however, most of the installations I have seen provide an access cover through one of the side cabinets/walls. Well, 99% of them, and Winnebago has been known to do things differently. Example: with our original configuration I wanted to add some devices and I called Winnebago. They said that the access to the back of the TV was behind the shower wall. Hmmm! Have to pull the shower out to get to the connections - not going to happen. I replaced the TV and added a full articulating arm. The call to Winnebago wills tart the process.

Especially where Carl and I live. All the steam from the humidity that you would like and heat to go with it.

Doesn't it depend on what you are smoking? May be an incentive to "Try." Hee hee!

I"m a year newer than you on a Freightliner chassis. There was a problem around that time with the line/connector on the air gauge under the dash. Brett actually found it when visiting my coach in storage. FL replaced the gauge and never had a problem since. Not saying that is your specific problem but it is an area to no overlook.

If you decide to camp in Palo Duro Canyon, TX, it is 10% grade for about 2 miles down to the bottom.

2nd gear downhill will push me to 3000 rpm.When I catch it I stab the brakes and slow down.

PA is not the only state that has inspectors that do not know the regulations. Back in the 80's I went for a class B CDL driving a 1 ton chevy and a TT weighing 14,000 pounds. In those days anything over 10,000 pounds being towed required a Class B. It took several inspectors including the supervisor looking at the manual while I explained what the words said. With that said, congratulations on the Class B non-CDL and KUDOS to Joe with the assist.

Mine is an Exhaust Brake and it hold well on most simple downgrades. It will drop the transmission a gear dependent on the speed I am going and typically to 4th gear as the set point and as the speed decreases to a safe transmission drop speed.. However, on long downhill grades the coach will slowly increase speed and I either have to stab the brake to bring it below what I consider the optimum speed for the grade, or down shift to the gear that will maintain control. When I have to downshift and upon leveling out the coach will stay in the gear that it has been downshifted to. I need to shift back up to 4, 5 or 6th gear and usually it is to 6th gear and let the system do what it is supposed to do. If I am using just the Exhaust Brake everything is "automatic." I leave my exhaust brake on all the time.

If DW starts complaining I'll do that. Now why don't they put a thermostat on the hot water heater. Dang it is hot.

High 60's here at Port Hueneme, CA Hight got up to 71˚ today.

Same one I have. Never leave home without it. However, right now I'm at a park that has 30 psi of pressure. Oh well.

Yes, the duct work could have come loose and sucking warm air. I have found with our basement air that approximately 15˚ below outside ambient temperature is what to expect inside, so 90˚ outside should be around 75˚ inside. The AC will most likely not cut off. Once when we were in temperatures above 90˚ we went to Lowes and purchased some "space bubble." It comes in rolls and I cut it to fit each half of the big window. Half a window at a time because it was easier to manage storage. When I put it in the window the temperature dropped inside to a comfortable level. Even though the windows are double pane the heat emanating through them is very high when the sun is shining in.

Until reading this I always thought it was discoloration from rust on the steel wheels.

If he wired it to plug into a standard house "dryer" plug it was wired for 240v and it will fry the components in an RV. Here is a 30 amp circuit for an RV 30 Amp RV Wiring

I think any type of good tape would work, like package tape - not scotch tape - to thin.

I posted somewhere else but I'll post again here: I had a problem with the thin door seals tearing. I used black Gorilla tape and carefully taped the tears overlapping the tape to both sides of the seal. Unit is 8 years old and still going good. Knock on wood.

My Norcold 1200 door gaskets tore the first year. I fabricated a gasket using Gorilla tape over the old gasket and repairing the tear. I had to do that a couple times in the last several years and the refrigerator is still cooling well. Don't overdo it with the tape. One piece folder around the old gasket will do the job. This is just FYI for anyone that has a torn gasket. It is my understanding that you cannot replace the gasket but have to replace the door(s).

Carefully reach up under the dash and check to see that all connections are firmly engaged in their sockets. Could happen.

Absolutely! Both are very good and a matter of personal preference and price. There are even other options and we are all wise to check out the reviews. Thanks.

...and what goes around comes around. I really believe that. Kudos to the campers that went out of their way.

I don't believe that Winnebago sells direct to consumers, however there is a company right next door to them who have come across for me several times. Give them a holler: Lichtsinn RV

Anyone interested also look into Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer.