wayne77590

Here is what my manual says for an 85 Gallon tank: Works for me and I have been doing it for many years. City Water Tank and Hose Disinfection This procedure can be used periodically to sanitize the city water hose, and can be used as an alternate method of adding bleach solution to the fresh water tank if desired. 1. Connect a water hose to the Fresh Water Inlet (located in the water service center). 2. Turn the Fresh Water valve to the Tank Fill 3. Remove the Full-Coach Water Filtration cartridge from the filter canister. Refit empty canister to filter head for procedure. (My Note: Disconnect any other filters, under sink, refrigerator - they make a bypass plug for the one under the sink.) 4. Hold the “city end” of the water hose upright and use a funnel to pour 1 1/2 cups of household chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite solution) into the hose. Keep the end of the hose held upright to avoid draining the bleach solution. 5. Connect the hose to a city water source and turn on slowly, allowing the water to force the bleach through the hose, then continue filling the tank with water. (This will disinfect the city water hose at the same time). 6. Let the system stand at least 4 hours when disinfecting with 50 ppm residual chlorine. If a shorter time period is desired, then a 100 ppm chlorine concentration should be allowed to stand in the system for at least 1 hour. 7. Drain the chlorinated water from the freshwater tank and refill with clean water.

Oh yes!

MR, The typical RV faucet is a standard configuration with regular faucets you purchase at a hardware store. Find one you like and change out the broken one. Thinking outside the box, if only the hot water side is not flowing I am gong to assume that some hot water tank sediment had clogged up the port at the faucet. with help from someone, disconnect the hot water line under the sink and then, with a pail nearby, have someone turn on the water pump. If water comes out of the line into the pail then the blockage is in the faucet. If no water out of the line then there is a problem somewhere else.

Well not much to do with MPG, but, while we had the 2008 I had the driveway redone as it was all cracked. Early 1960's cement and the support was chicken wire and all of it was on the bottom of the driveway. Had 3/8" rebar and 6" of cement for the new one. Expanded it 26 inches on the sidewalk side and 19" on the edge of the house side. Had 8" piers on the edges. Now when I park with the new one I can leave 6-8 inches on the sidewalk side and extend the driver slide with a little left over before center of garage. DW can move her car in and out and I can leave the slide out. Very happy with the outcome. I have 50 amp outside the garage. With only 14,000+ miles on the MH I'm happy with the 7.2 to 7.9 and hoping that once it is really broken in it will increase a little. I'd be happy with between 8.2 and 8.9. Jim S and I went to Gaffney several years ago and before we hit the hills of Alabama there was a segment where we got 12 MPG on our old coaches.

MPG is real good sitting there, but I'm ready to hit the road and see if I get better mileage. It would be in the back yard if I could convince DW to cut down the very large oak tree.

The previous 2008 Winnebago Destination was between 8.2 and 8.9 consistently as averages depending on the wind. Cummins ISB 340, Alison 2500. GVW 27,400, Towing 2007 Saturn and then 2013 MKX The new to us 2015 Winnebago Tour 42qd, Cummins 450, Alison 3000, GVW 45,660, on the few trips taken, has been between 7.2 and 7.9, towing 2013 MKX. The palm tree was cut down yesterday.

True that Jim. My steering wheel does not lock. Never gave it a thought about those that did. Since the OP has a dolly this may be information for him.

That's the way my previous RV was, just reach in and turn it off. The present one is just inside the door next to the passenger seat and down at the bottom, plus it has a safety lock that has to be pressed up before the steps can be turned off. I just leave them off when in storage but I'm plugged in to 110v. Lord, you should see the lighted switches that stay on when plugged in. I run by the storage facility every once in a while to do a check and so far so good. I called Winnebago and they were the ones that told me to turn the steps off because of the current drain. Oh, and this was with the MH plugged in to 110v. Seems the inverter on that model could not keep up with all the parasitic current drains.

One of the biggest continuous current draw are the steps. They have an electronic current limiter in them in that when there is force on the steps the current is flowing. Ever notice when up against a curb and you open the door and the step hits it, it stops? The electronic current limiter has triggered because of the high current drain and it is continuous. I did not have the same coach but on my preveous one I also had a voltage drop on the batteries to about 11.6-9 after two weeks. I was able to reach in and turn off the steps and the voltage then remained above 12 volt, Another thing that can be done is to invest in an generator auto-start. Programmed for about 12.4 V it will kick in and when the batteries are charged it shuts off.

I'm asking because I don't know. If the dolly got a flat would the white rag on the steering wheel indicate a vibration/wobble?

Doesn't matter what I'm doing, golfing, fishing. sleeping, my DW plays cards. Visa, Master, EX, etc.

An Oasis Dealer has to have: Dedicated motorhome facilities and service bays Specially trained service technicians Secure parking Amenities exclusively for motorhome owners There are about 100, give or take, Oasis facilities in the U.S

For What It's Worth And again Mr. Google is wonderful, don'tcha think!

For the TOAD, tie a white cloth in the middle of the upper steering wheel. You will see it better and if it starts shuddering pull over and check. Of course, you have to remember to check the rear view mirror. Don't fret! If something is wrong, truckers or passer-byes will honk so if you hear a number of cars honking as they pass you, truckers releasing a couple Psssts of air, pull over and check. Pulling over, do it safely and only if safe to do so.

If anyone wants information then send a PM as most of the time they get notified by email that they have a PM if it is set up for them that way.

Don't forget, we all started out having to learn and it has to be on the road. Stay in the right lane on two lane freeways or the middle lane if 3 lane and let the crazies go around you.

DBenoit, I'm going to chime in and go out on the limb here. You say you have been driving in NE so you must have some comfort when driving the MH. I have been on NE road with both a 40' 5th wheel and a 40' MH. The 5th required a truck and I had an F350, King Ranch, Crew Cab, Long Bed pulling it. The MH had a 2007 Saturn and then a 2013 Lincoln towed behind it, so if you have been driving those roads you should not have a problem on any roads. I'm going to assume you have a GPS that you can program to avoid certain heights and other restrictions. Here is an option for you, I-84 to US-209 (Delaware Water Gap area(toll but was not expensive) I've done that in both type vehicles. Hwy 33 to US-22 to I-78 to US-222 to Hwy 30 to US-15 to US-17 to MB. Much more scenic drive than a boring interstate with crazy drivers. I have been on those highways without any problem. Been some time ago and I don't know about present construction but they should be okay for a NE Driver.

Check the reservoir with he jacks retracted. If the hydraulic tank has a fill line make sure the fluid is at that line. If it is above, use a turkey baster and suck some out - nasty job as it wants to go everywhere. If it is below the line then fill it to the full mark. If here is no line check your manual but most will have the line about 1 inch below the top of the tank.

Semper Fi Gunny. Guard the gate for us.

Don't make it a day trip. It's 682 miles from Beaumont.

Been to Gaffney and service was great. The classes by Mike were excellent. Facilities for plug in right there and coach goes in at morning time. Houston is on 40 miles from me and I trust the service I get there. So yes, there are other places besides Gaffney to get a Freightliner chassis serviced. Have you visited the Freighliner you are referring to? A one on one for 5-10 minutes can help. I did that before my first visit. Never regretted it.

Busting the Bubble Marfa Lights.

My personal opinion is that you are better off with a Freighliner shop that has a dedicated RV Service Tech. Ten years ago I started using Freighliner Houston and the were not an Oasis shop but they had an RV service tech and he is very good. They expanded their facilities and not have dedicated service bays for RV's and are now an Oasis shop. If you close by shop has a dedicated RV Service Tech you would most likely get a good service. In my opinion if a shop has a dedicated RV service person that has been doing RV chassis service for years you would be okay but barring that I'd drive the extra 50 miles, drop it of and go pick it up when finished. I just purchased our 2015 in October of last year and went though what you are going through now. It was in the Oasis shop 3 days and $2800 latter I rescued it. My yearly RV physicals over ten years have run anywhere from $900 to $2000 depending on having an M1, M2, or M3 done and any worn parts replaced.

I did years ago in the ordinary 1969 Ply with a Kenwood TS-520 sitting on the center of the floor board. Ran a power operated bumper mount tri-band antenna. Can't remember the name of it. Many years ago DW wanted to paint the inside of the house and I moved everything out. Nothing got moved back in and 10 years later I sold everything. Still maintain the license though and presently a member of W5RRR. Hmmm! Need to get to the shack and give some shouts one of these days. Looking for a cheap but good VHF/UHF HH though. Any thoughts. KE5QG

I sure would not like meeting something coming from the other way! Also, take all that snow and shovel it up above the border.