wayne77590

Herman, yes I know the AH will shut down at 1/4 tank. I always put the chariot in storage with a full tank just for the reason you stated. Et. al., diesel prices will not stop my travels and this year it is to the East Coast for the summer, up to NE, over to Niagara, across to MI, to the UP and around and return home. Next year it's back to the Left Coast where on Hwy 101 it stays cool most of the summer but one needs to be aware of fires, mudslide, etc.

Frank, Give Lichtsinn rv in Forest City, IA a call. Phone: 641-585-3213 and see if they can help. Your coach is not the only coach that has that system. Hmmm! I think it's time to make a back-up and put it in the safe.

Frank, I'm on a MAC and it is pretty straight forward to copy things. Just a mater of copying it to the computer and then copying/burning it back to the device. Carbon Copy Cloner, Toast Titanium, Burn, etc. Should be an easy copy to computer and copy back to new SD card. Even Windows should be able to do that. I don't think there is any copy protection on the SD card except for the little slide on the side of the card.

I like filling up at around the half tank level and not just for pocket book. Been there done that when the tank was close to 1/4 and I needed to run the generator. Never know when that will happen. Less of a $$ shock also until the bill comes in. Use to have a 90 gallon tank and now a 150 gallon tank. Guess it is because of the Aqua Hot, :-).

A few years ago I needed to replace the shoes on the 2008. Michelin's were no where to be found. Decided to go with the Toyo M154's and never noticed any difference and the price was cheaper. Many of the cross country truckers run Toyo's. Good enough for them, good enough for me. Price was not a consideration, just worked out that the Toyo's were less expensive.

My 2008 MH after 9 years looked just as good on the outside as it did the day I bought it, maybe even better. It had never been "waxed," but it was washed regularly and a de-ionized rinse uesed. Never used a brush, always a microfiber cloth/mop. Present 2015 I purchased used and someone used a buffer or non-microfiber rag and washed it in circles. When the sun is just right you can see the swirl marks. However I am back to the same way to wash it as the 2008. It still is looking good. I'm also now using Wash Wax All.

I didn't travel in Jim S's expensive circles but in 2008 on a West Coast trip it reached $4.00 a gallon. West Coast is always more expensive than other areas of the U.S. Doesn't matter, we just slow our travel down to let the monthly retirement catch up. Consider going to point a, b, c and d, filling up every half tank or so and doing that in about a week. That's two full tanks of gas there-a-bouts. Now travel that same route but stop for a week and enjoy the areas. It's still two full tanks of gas but now it is spread out over 4 weeks and the finances catch up. There are ways to manage it. Doesn't matter if it gets that high again, we are going to travel.

If it is the wiper seal that flips when you extend or retract it is only a wiper. It doesn't seal the MH from rain. The seal for protection from the elements is around the frame inside and the outer edge of the slide when extended. Now if you really want to have the wiper seal look nice for aesthetic reasons, use the back of the awning rod, the rounded edge, and slip it under the seal and work it up. You don't need a lot of pressure. You can also use the back side of the hooked end. You have to be careful and if you feel resistance be especially careful not to tear the seal. Another method I used was to spray 303 on a rag and the rag in the rounded end of the awning rod and work it up on the inside of the seal. Then wipe the outside of the seal with 303. I then would spray the side of the slide. Amazing how that helped until the next time. Dry silicone should work also. RV stores have a slide seal spray also but I have never used it. Do not use a petroleum based product on the rubber or side of the slide.

Darn! Wish I could help. I can copy one if anyone has one and doesn't have the means to copy. 'Course they would have to be in the Texas City vicinity.

Preference is Community Club Dark Roast, then Community Club with Chicory, and every once in a while Community Club Pecan. DW doesn't care for CC so it is my specific brew when using K-Cups.

Been there done all of that with coffee. Now Kurig is Paul Newman's Own for DW and I'm a Community Club, or Walmart Arabic type person. For the big pot brewer we are Dunkin Donuts fans and grind our own.

Earth's atmosphere is 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 0.9% argon, and 0.03% carbon dioxide with very small percentages of other elements. Must just be the other than nitrogen that is heating up. As stated, the rise is normal and anticipated by the engineers. Do not inflate to minimum temperature for your weight. Instead find a medium between minimum and maximum. Always check when tires are cold, by 2 to 3 hours. When inflated between min and max it give a fudge factor so you don't have to keep inflating and deflating to maintain a safe pressure for your weight.

Riverparkinc.com distributes the SD card for the RM infotainment center. They can be reached at (800) 442-7717 · (574) 522-7781. Back in October of November of 2017 I was updating a new to us MH RM SD card and it was to small a card. Called Riverparkinc and the sent me a larger card with all the updates on it.

Brass! They can be contoured to come out the center of the hole. The aluminum ones are just coated and can crack when bent. With that said, Dually Valves makes valves specifically for different MH's.

Sorry, but our dog has gotten sick (UTI) just about every time she uses a dog park so we find an isolated area along the fence line for her to go. Now for urine, I don't let her get more than 2 feet onto the grass wherever an RV is parked. We carry doggie bags and always pick up after her. If the doggie bag container just happens to be empty we go back to the MH and get another and return to the "dumped" area and pick up where she dumped. Not lazy, just don't want my nice dog getting sick.

We live in a refinery town. Visitor and passer by travelers well say, "What is that smell?" The locals reply, "Money!"

Many of the older MH's had RCA (red/white connectors) connectors as audio output and they provided the audio to surround sound, etc. The newer televisions only use HDMI (With ARC), Optical, and Coax audio and are not compatible with the earlier audio devices that use the BOMB input/output system (BOMB = Box Of Many Buttons). As stated, the speakers are either on the side or on the bottom behind the frame of the TV. Enclosed in a box will produce a muffled sound without an external sound device, like the soundbar as mentioned. A little modification to where the present TV is located and a full articulating TV mount can be installed. With this mount the TV can be larger than the opening and when not in use pressed flat against the cabinetry with consideration for the height. Measure, measure, measure! Also with the TV outside the cabinet any speakers side/bottom will be audible. The full articulating arm configuration also allows easy access to the connections on the back of the TV. You will have to secure it with a strap or other device when traveling. I'll leave that up to your imagination. Your present TV most likely has a frame of an inch or more. The newer TV's have 1/4 inch or less on some models. If you do decide to recess it into the present hole just measure and find a TV that will fit in there. The actual screen size of the newer TV will be slightly bigger than your present one. Don't just go into a place to buy one that says 19" or 20" or whatever inch as those measurements are from diagonal corner to corner. Measure top to bottom and side to side for the recess mount. All the above is if you do decide to buy another TV, but there is another option for $11.00 HDMI to RCA Adapter On the adapter power, don't worry about USB power as a USB phone charger plug will work.

I am master of my motorhome, whatever my wife says shall be done!

Dan, thanks for the info. Thinking out of the box, a couple pieces of aluminum stock, a vice, and a hammer and a drill, a person could easily make a set of brackets.

....and use Chlorine Bleach like Clorox.

Here is what my manual says for an 85 Gallon tank: Works for me and I have been doing it for many years. City Water Tank and Hose Disinfection This procedure can be used periodically to sanitize the city water hose, and can be used as an alternate method of adding bleach solution to the fresh water tank if desired. 1. Connect a water hose to the Fresh Water Inlet (located in the water service center). 2. Turn the Fresh Water valve to the Tank Fill 3. Remove the Full-Coach Water Filtration cartridge from the filter canister. Refit empty canister to filter head for procedure. (My Note: Disconnect any other filters, under sink, refrigerator - they make a bypass plug for the one under the sink.) 4. Hold the “city end” of the water hose upright and use a funnel to pour 1 1/2 cups of household chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite solution) into the hose. Keep the end of the hose held upright to avoid draining the bleach solution. 5. Connect the hose to a city water source and turn on slowly, allowing the water to force the bleach through the hose, then continue filling the tank with water. (This will disinfect the city water hose at the same time). 6. Let the system stand at least 4 hours when disinfecting with 50 ppm residual chlorine. If a shorter time period is desired, then a 100 ppm chlorine concentration should be allowed to stand in the system for at least 1 hour. 7. Drain the chlorinated water from the freshwater tank and refill with clean water.

Oh yes!

MR, The typical RV faucet is a standard configuration with regular faucets you purchase at a hardware store. Find one you like and change out the broken one. Thinking outside the box, if only the hot water side is not flowing I am gong to assume that some hot water tank sediment had clogged up the port at the faucet. with help from someone, disconnect the hot water line under the sink and then, with a pail nearby, have someone turn on the water pump. If water comes out of the line into the pail then the blockage is in the faucet. If no water out of the line then there is a problem somewhere else.

Well not much to do with MPG, but, while we had the 2008 I had the driveway redone as it was all cracked. Early 1960's cement and the support was chicken wire and all of it was on the bottom of the driveway. Had 3/8" rebar and 6" of cement for the new one. Expanded it 26 inches on the sidewalk side and 19" on the edge of the house side. Had 8" piers on the edges. Now when I park with the new one I can leave 6-8 inches on the sidewalk side and extend the driver slide with a little left over before center of garage. DW can move her car in and out and I can leave the slide out. Very happy with the outcome. I have 50 amp outside the garage. With only 14,000+ miles on the MH I'm happy with the 7.2 to 7.9 and hoping that once it is really broken in it will increase a little. I'd be happy with between 8.2 and 8.9. Jim S and I went to Gaffney several years ago and before we hit the hills of Alabama there was a segment where we got 12 MPG on our old coaches.

MPG is real good sitting there, but I'm ready to hit the road and see if I get better mileage. It would be in the back yard if I could convince DW to cut down the very large oak tree.