wayne77590

You should have a "hidden" button and when it is depressed for 2 seconds the horn will sound rapidly, twice. That puts the alarm into valet mode. Since I had mine installed by the Lincoln Dealer I told them where I wanted the button. Typically it will be on the bottom rail of the dash so look around there. If you have an alarm system there should be a blue light that is visible. If the light is blinking the alarm is set and if it is steady it is in valet mode. No on leaving the keyless fob in the car, take it with you. Leaving it in the car would invite a thief to try and steal it if they saw it. You can also use it to unlock the car to start it and let it run. You can also unlock the car using the keypad. Typically all keyless entries will lock all doors when the 7&9 are pressed simultaneously. Try it with all the doors unlocked. As with the key fob when you press the lock button all doors lock and when you press the unlock will depend if it is programmed that way. With an alarm system it usually only unlocks the driver's door unless pressed twice.

Do you have key-less ignition or a keyed ignition? I have Key-less so our processes may be different, yet similar. Key-less: Start and run motor for 5 minutes. Place shifter into neutral by going to D, R, then back to N. Place in accessory mode. For me that is turn off and push key-less until system comes on (in accessory mode). At that time, or while warming up I make sure all the automatic stuff is turned off, lights, WW'ers, etc. When in accessory mode I push setup on my display and select the display off. I place my alarm system in Valet (otherwise movement will start sounding the horn.) Exit vehicle and lock doors, 7+9 together on door pad. I have had my battery go below starting capacity a few times. I find that if in hill country and using the brakes a lot and activating the tail lights on the car the battery would drain down sooner. When I stopped for the night after 4 hours of towing I would have to plug into the pedestal and then use my charger I carry to charge the battery back up. I could set this up while I was setting up and unhooking the car. About 10 minutes or less later I could start the vehicle. My interim fix now, until I can add a charge line, is to stop every two hours, start the car and let it run for 5 minutes. Shift from D to R to N, go through my process again and be on my way. So far that has allowed the car to start when we stop for the night. Funny is that when in accessory mode everything turns off after 10 minutes. I asked Lincoln/Ford why it could not just stay off and not accessory mode. The reply was that the engineers state there was a difference between off and accessory but didn't say what that difference is. So I just follow their procedure.

Good job. Lots of beer drinking afterwards, right?

I'm like Brett with no emails or notifications of web changes. I go to the fmca.com web site click on forum and click on unread content. Brett's method is faster as a direct link to the unread content. Hmmm!

Any system will indicate that the brake is on and do it with the slightest pressure of the brake peddle. Think about the car owners who ride with their left foot resting on the brake peddle. I use AF1 and its proportional braking using air. So far so good but even then the slightest pressure on the brake pedal will indicate braking.

One can post in RVParkReviews and subtly indicate the negatives and get it posted. Point out the facilities and then the truth about what happened. Don't indicate a "not return" and let the reader make up their mind.

Carl, does your garage handle two MH's at the same time? p.s., running into the 90's here in town. Wish you were here.

Tom, I have one of those deck plates in where my "outside" entertainment system would plug in. Inside the compartment is the coax connector and the AC receptacle. On the floor of the compartment is a deck plate with the sliding door latch that is closed when not in use. It is big enough to put a power cable through and then the sliding latch can butt up against the cable. I use it all the time for the ground lights and electric griddle when cooking outside. Now for my electrical compartment I have a deck plate on the Winnebago that fits up against the edge of the compartment. The whole deck plate can be lowered by releasing two clips creating a wide opening, or there is a rotating slide cover that covers the opening when not in use and when needed the opening accommodates the power cable. So they are out there it is just a matter of finding the right one. Aah! Found some. Power Cord Hatch for RV Lots to choose from.

I've been using my 2 X 10 treated wood pads for 10 years. They have a covering of 5/8" plywood screwed to the 2 X 10. The plywood helps in keeping the wood from cracking but will not keep it from cracking 100% but when they do crack, and one of mine has, the plywood keeps it intact. Time to replace - getting old (wood that is)

Could a deck plate be modified. Could the contraption be held in place with a spring clip as sort of like those used on sheet rock walls to hold pictures. Deck Plates Or, find an appropriate size eye bolt, two of them. Open the eye end and flatten to a rod like look. Drill a hole in the apparatus that the power cable is going to go through on each side. Take the screw off the eye bolt and put the eye bolt through two pre-drilled holes in the "cover." replace eye bolt screw with wingnut. To operate, place "cover" contraption against power cord hole. Turn the modified eye bolt until it locks against the frame of the hole. Tighten wingnuts. Any threaded rod will do with the end bent at a right angle. (Use washers) Hey, just thinking out loud. :-)

Okay, this works for me and any combination should work for others, just need to monitor current load. In my case the Electrical Management Syste (EMS) does that. When I park in covered storage I have 120V 20A available. My MH plug is 50A (Four pins). I plug a 12 gauge short extension cord into the 120v supply into a 30A to 15A Adapter plug (20A to 30A in reverse direction) Th 30A Adapter plugs into the 50a to 30A Adapter (reverse is 30A to 50A) and the motor home 50A Adapter plugs into the 50A to 30A Adapter. All of these adapters are available at Walmart, Target, and other stores and RV supply houses. So it is MH plug into 50 to 30, and 30 into 30A to 15A. Two Adapters for just about any configuration. Absolutely necessary to monitor current when using anything less than 50A Links to what the adapters look like. 50 to 30A Adapter 30 to 15A Adapter My EMS will automatically run 1 AC pump on 15A but I best not turn to many other items on.

Ditto and no problems.

Go to a Marina store or any boat store and see if they have a 4" grommet. Some will have holes for inserting wires but if it is a solid grommet just take a knife/razor and make an "X" in the middle to push the wire through. If push comes to shove and you cannot find a ready made grommet, any large piece of rubber to cover the hole and Duct Tape it into place with an "X" to push your wire through.

Check the inlet of the water pump to make sure that the PEX is firmly attached to the pump. Other fittings could be checked also. Friend had a brand new MH and it would not pump water. The only problem was that the hose fitting on the pump was not firmly on.

It would be nice if the first time poster would come back and state if any of the information was helpful or not. Nice to know when someone "fixes" something, and it goes without saying that many others will learn from the posts.

The other way is to copy the URL. Just highlight the web page url that you are on and hit CTRL C or Command C on a MAC. Then type [u rl= (no spaces) and paste the link after the = sign. Then add an ] to then end of the link and type a title. After the title type [/ url] (no spaces) and you are done I type at 70 WPM so for me it's the easy way.

I tried studying for this test. Don't think I did well.

What about the 2012 as the OP has. Unless it is the I-4 with EcoBoost I don't believe it is towable four-down. His owner's manual should tell him if it is capable of recreational towing. I really don't think it matters past this point anymore as the OP has not returned to this thread.

There was an incident back in '07 or '08 were a Montana 5th wheel got on the Conn Turnpike. Not supposed to be there. Took the front end top cap of the 5er off.

Bill is right, he did not follow Mfg instructions. It is D, R then N. My Lincoln is the same trans an it is Drive to Reverse then to Neutral

Byron, was this it: RV hits bridge

I asked if it were the EcoBoost because only the I-4 for 2012 can be towed 4 down. I don't know if they made a 2012 Edge that was not an I-4. It really doesn't matter since the original poster never responded to any posts. "From the Ford camp, EcoBoost I-4 versions of the Edge and Explorer front-wheel-drive vehicles with an automatic transmission can be towed four wheels down" Most definitely follow the Mfg instructions.

George, The phone jacks and the Cat 5 (internet) jacks are very different. Each of them will not fit in the others jack. The Cat 5 is wider than the phone jack. If you have a telephone cord and it plugs into the pedestal it is not a Cat 5 (Ethernet) connection. If you plug in a telephone and it does not have a dial tone then the jack is dead. DSL is another matter as the outgoing DSL cable will fit into a phone jack. The majority of DSL lines require a filter that the company you subscribe to provides. It will have a small "pig-tail" on one end and the other side will have a conection that the DSL Modem plugs into. (Some times called ADSL Filter). You can find them at Target, Wamart or other stores that carry electronic euipement. Ask your DSL Modem provider for filter model.

Jerry, Is your Edge an EcoBoost 2012 Ford Edge FWD 2.0 4?

I have the Progressive Industries PT-50C and it has saved my coach several times. The most interesting one was in a Kansas CG and all of a sudden the air conditioning went off. I went to the pedestal and saw that error code for low voltage and low and behold the voltage had dropped to 104 volts and shut the surge protector off. There have been many other times during storms, brown outs, etc., that the surge protector did its job. They are 100% worth the value. Consider it an insurance and it is only there when it is needed.