wayne77590

Ran into the same situation and I believe it is a normal policy of companies. Had problems with an item, got it replaced, and warranty only good until expiration of original warranty. Happens all the time. I really can understand why. There are persons in this world that would purposefully stop something from working just before a warranty expired to get a new one. Then figure if the new one came with another two year warranty and they purposefully damaged the one they had to get a new one. Companies would go broke. Not everyone is as nice as you and I, and I'm not really sure about me!

I was typing as you were posting.

I don't think that is correct. Michelin lists the XRV tire in the truck section but it is a tire that is made for rv's. From their information: "All-position radial designed specifically for exceptional performance on recreational vehicles and motor homes in coach applications..." I don't think anyone has said to inflate 10% over max tire rating capacity. What is listed on the tire is the maximum inflation pressure of the tire to handle the indicated load on the tire. The following from information I researched on the marking on the sidewall are: Max Load Single 1380 kg (3042 lbs) at 550 kPa (80 psi) Max Pressure Cold Max Load Dual 1260 kg (2778 lbs) at 550 kPa (80 psi) Max Pressure Cold – So for a single tire on a vehicle with an 80 psi max pressure cold could support a load of 3042 pounds. No one is indicating to go over 80 pounds. The 10 percent addition would be if the load were 2500 pounds and the tire chart said 70 psi, then 77 pounds could be used as a minimum pressure to support 2500+ a few pounds. Make sense?

Not only the enclosed storage but covered storage as well is at a premium. When we go off for 4 or 5 months we don't dare let the monthly rent lapse as we would not find a place when we returned. RV Storage is like regular storage, you build it, they will come. Campground around here are about the same.

Hey, at Smitty's drop Bill's name or my name and I'm sure he'll jack the prices up!

p.s., I have the flow through on the MH and the non-flow through on the TOAD. Toad has vogue tires and flow-through would stick out to much.

I may have missed it but if you have not done it you might want to put the information on your MH in your signature. Does your MH have air brakes or mechanical brakes? My MH has Air Brakes and I use Air Force 1 braking system. Even without air brakes there is a model AF1 that has its own air canister. With the air brake model it is just a simple hook up of the air line between the back of the RV and the front of the car. Nothing to fool with on, or around, the brake pedal. The very small piston attached to the brake pedal arm stays in place. I am told that another good system is M&G but that is hearsay for me.

Well if you want peace of mind you could always get a "satellite phone." Not very cheap and I have not idea what service connectivity would cost. A little research goes a long way. Just hope there are no thunderstorms above or the phone will be dead until it clears.

Joe, Look at TST's TPMS system(s). TST TPMS I have had mine for quite a while. First the non-replaceable battery ones and then they gave me a good deal on replacements. They have been quick to back-up the brand.

Most email programs have rules that can be set to send a specific email to the junk box. Works for me. Many email programs work so that if you drag the email to the junk box it remembers that operation and the next time that type email comes in it will go to the junk box. On the other hand, I just hit the delete button.

Have son take a shuttle to one of the car services and when you circle the airport pick him up. I'm not sure about SF but Houston has waiting areas that people park in and when called go to the pickup area. Only concern I would have is Height Restrictions. Someone in that area could tell you about that.

I do have first hand experience with Smitty's RV Welding and it is all excellent. First time was the Saturn Vue and the second time was the Lincoln MKX. I have referred other friends there and their experience has been positive. Last person i sent there they were able to spend the night in the parking lot for a finish-up the Next morning. He may or may not be as cheap as CW but he does excellent work. He also installed my AF1 in the Saturn and removed it and re-installed it in the Lincoln. JMHO

So Bill, first you check to make sure all the windows were closed....then what?

Ha ha! My camera microphone has a off/volume control.

....until you hit the next pothole!

You should have a "hidden" button and when it is depressed for 2 seconds the horn will sound rapidly, twice. That puts the alarm into valet mode. Since I had mine installed by the Lincoln Dealer I told them where I wanted the button. Typically it will be on the bottom rail of the dash so look around there. If you have an alarm system there should be a blue light that is visible. If the light is blinking the alarm is set and if it is steady it is in valet mode. No on leaving the keyless fob in the car, take it with you. Leaving it in the car would invite a thief to try and steal it if they saw it. You can also use it to unlock the car to start it and let it run. You can also unlock the car using the keypad. Typically all keyless entries will lock all doors when the 7&9 are pressed simultaneously. Try it with all the doors unlocked. As with the key fob when you press the lock button all doors lock and when you press the unlock will depend if it is programmed that way. With an alarm system it usually only unlocks the driver's door unless pressed twice.

Do you have key-less ignition or a keyed ignition? I have Key-less so our processes may be different, yet similar. Key-less: Start and run motor for 5 minutes. Place shifter into neutral by going to D, R, then back to N. Place in accessory mode. For me that is turn off and push key-less until system comes on (in accessory mode). At that time, or while warming up I make sure all the automatic stuff is turned off, lights, WW'ers, etc. When in accessory mode I push setup on my display and select the display off. I place my alarm system in Valet (otherwise movement will start sounding the horn.) Exit vehicle and lock doors, 7+9 together on door pad. I have had my battery go below starting capacity a few times. I find that if in hill country and using the brakes a lot and activating the tail lights on the car the battery would drain down sooner. When I stopped for the night after 4 hours of towing I would have to plug into the pedestal and then use my charger I carry to charge the battery back up. I could set this up while I was setting up and unhooking the car. About 10 minutes or less later I could start the vehicle. My interim fix now, until I can add a charge line, is to stop every two hours, start the car and let it run for 5 minutes. Shift from D to R to N, go through my process again and be on my way. So far that has allowed the car to start when we stop for the night. Funny is that when in accessory mode everything turns off after 10 minutes. I asked Lincoln/Ford why it could not just stay off and not accessory mode. The reply was that the engineers state there was a difference between off and accessory but didn't say what that difference is. So I just follow their procedure.

Good job. Lots of beer drinking afterwards, right?

I'm like Brett with no emails or notifications of web changes. I go to the fmca.com web site click on forum and click on unread content. Brett's method is faster as a direct link to the unread content. Hmmm!

Any system will indicate that the brake is on and do it with the slightest pressure of the brake peddle. Think about the car owners who ride with their left foot resting on the brake peddle. I use AF1 and its proportional braking using air. So far so good but even then the slightest pressure on the brake pedal will indicate braking.

One can post in RVParkReviews and subtly indicate the negatives and get it posted. Point out the facilities and then the truth about what happened. Don't indicate a "not return" and let the reader make up their mind.

Carl, does your garage handle two MH's at the same time? p.s., running into the 90's here in town. Wish you were here.

Tom, I have one of those deck plates in where my "outside" entertainment system would plug in. Inside the compartment is the coax connector and the AC receptacle. On the floor of the compartment is a deck plate with the sliding door latch that is closed when not in use. It is big enough to put a power cable through and then the sliding latch can butt up against the cable. I use it all the time for the ground lights and electric griddle when cooking outside. Now for my electrical compartment I have a deck plate on the Winnebago that fits up against the edge of the compartment. The whole deck plate can be lowered by releasing two clips creating a wide opening, or there is a rotating slide cover that covers the opening when not in use and when needed the opening accommodates the power cable. So they are out there it is just a matter of finding the right one. Aah! Found some. Power Cord Hatch for RV Lots to choose from.

I've been using my 2 X 10 treated wood pads for 10 years. They have a covering of 5/8" plywood screwed to the 2 X 10. The plywood helps in keeping the wood from cracking but will not keep it from cracking 100% but when they do crack, and one of mine has, the plywood keeps it intact. Time to replace - getting old (wood that is)

Could a deck plate be modified. Could the contraption be held in place with a spring clip as sort of like those used on sheet rock walls to hold pictures. Deck Plates Or, find an appropriate size eye bolt, two of them. Open the eye end and flatten to a rod like look. Drill a hole in the apparatus that the power cable is going to go through on each side. Take the screw off the eye bolt and put the eye bolt through two pre-drilled holes in the "cover." replace eye bolt screw with wingnut. To operate, place "cover" contraption against power cord hole. Turn the modified eye bolt until it locks against the frame of the hole. Tighten wingnuts. Any threaded rod will do with the end bent at a right angle. (Use washers) Hey, just thinking out loud. :-)