kaypsmith

When using 6 volt batteries to run a 12 volt system, two six volt in series to make 12 volts, two 100 amp six volts = 100 amps 12 volt. If using 4 6v batteries, then 200 amps @ 12 volts. Carl, with 8 232 amp hrs 6 VDC batteries, each pair of 6 volt batteries wired in series to give 12 volts and then each of those pairs wired in series; that gives you the equivalent of 4 232 amp hr 12 volt batteries or 928 amp hrs @ 12 VDC.

Harold, the reel does use contact points to transfer the power from shore power straight to the ATS. Have you contacted Shoreline to see if a repair kit is available? There are several models of shoreline that come up on ebay, one appears to be the same model as yours, they are not cheap. Here is a possible contact info for them. http://www.trci.net/contact-us

Cell phone boosters are not in my pay grade, wifi I will give my two cents worth. I have not found a wifi booster that is worth two cents. Now that said, wifi is what is usually available in the park, a restaurant, or other establishment. If you really are referencing "wifi" then an extender can be of real benefit by placing this unit between the closest acceptable signal and where you are parked, there are portable units available that can be powered by a battery. The other means that I referred to in an earlier post is cellular technology, which you pay a monthly charge, or can be purchased from Walmart and other stores, these of course go with you wherever you go and work reasonably well wherever your cell phone works ok. I use a package from Verizon called MiFi, this is the only service that I use either home or on the road, because only other broadband available is satellite company, I live too far away from other folks for cable or phone service broadband. The link RVMobileInternet.com is a good source for reference, but I thought it might be helpful to know the difference.

If you can afford $300. to 400. I would look into Mifi with a Cradlepoint mifi router, if you are looking for internet on the go. You can Google those names and get info.

My last coach was a 91 cross country by sports coach, 34 ft dp, same engine, it is on a spartan chassis. Can say nothing but praises for that rig. It had Cummins 230 with Allison Ht740 "4 speed" transmission. Plenty power for that coach, was governed at 69 mph, 2100 rpm. 7 to 9 mpg depending on terrain, and on flat at 60 mph sometimes topped 10 mpg. She weighed 21,000 loaded, and I towed 3400 toad with those figures.

Carl, I thought was your middle name. You are right they are also temperamental, my female dog is like that also.

Could it be a radiator mister?

Looks like a great job. Have you considered one for the house and one for the coach, that way moving from one to the other want seem like being disrupted each time you go from house to coach. We have four Yorkies that travel with us and they don't mind moving back and forth.

Knew you were persistent enough to get the job done. Good job and happy trails. Stay in touch!

Herman, be nice, I thought he was 76, not 60.He's got to be older than me, and I'm older than dirt.

Most black and grey holding tanks are formed from ABS, it can be ordered online, and some rv suppliers stock it in sheets. If the only damage is the top seam is split, a small sheet of this material can be cut to completely cover the seam. Most box plumbing stores stock the ABS glue "weld", using pipe cleaner clean the surfaces very well, paint the glue onto the entire surface that will accommodate the patch. Place the patch in place and apply pressure for two to five minutes. I have done this in the past for a quick repair until a replacement can be obtained. Have done this for others in the past, five years later, they still have not been replaced. In Alabama, we call a pesky varmint a dirt dauber, it will build a mud nest inside a vent pipe, sometimes birds build nest in them, and the list goes on. If the vent pipe is open, just a quick sniff of it up close and personal will let you know if open enough or not. Also pour a gallon of water down it, if you hear a gurgling sound, signs of a partially stopped up, If open you should hear it make a clean sweeping sound. Also, here is a very good youtube video for making a permanent repair if the area is not flat. It is about 25 minutes.

If you can tell the dimensions, go to ebay and search rv holding tank, there are many listed there. It sounds as though the vent system must have become stopped up,

Herman, this very true. Topic reminds me of a trip to Florida several years ago, a new gas class A pulled up beside me, a woman driving started veering over to my lane, I blew the air horn, which was the wrong thing to do, thank goodness there was a wide enough shoulder, because I had to use it. We were still in Alabama and still some rolling hills, the coach I owned at that time was a DP with a governor set at 69 MPH, so she blew on down the hill, started up the next grade and I had to pass or creep up the hill. After cresting, here she came again, I was prepared this time, I slammed on the brakes, and when she cleared me this time, I flashed the headlights, she ran to the left into the median. Long story short, I pulled off the road and waited ten minutes giving her time to get on down the road. Unfortunately I got to the next town and lo and behold she had stopped, then pulled back out causing me to slam on the brakes again. Sorry to be so long, but it did bring back memories when reading your last post on this subject.

They forgot that nitrogen was still attached, LOL.

This looks like your best choice, glad you found the schematics. I am a tech support supervisor/engineer with a computer company for 32 years. We do about 75% over the phone support, I would be happy with you being guided anytime. Good luck with your repair.

Any vacuum hose disconnected surely is a leak, good point Carl. If it is disconnected, reconnect, cross fingers and try it out. If not tech support is certainly a good call.

Looking at the pictures, the one showing the fuses, if this is the 12 volt block, I can't tell the numbering scheme, but if the one further right is one then counting to the left' notice that the # 8 to the left shows heavy discoloration which is caused by overheating, probably when the converter bit the dust. If I read your post correctly, # 8 is the battery charging circuit, and you are reading 3.6 at the lug. Position # 4 has something smaller in size than an ordinary fuse it appears to be marked either 3 or 5 is a littlefuse type 267, as noted above it. Any way my conclusions are that all lugs below the fuse should read at least 12.6 to the white lug with a near full charge on the battery.The converter should be producing still 12+ volts at 3 or 45 amps. All things as said above, I would change the converter out and the circuit board. I further recommend that you go to a 3 stage converter, this will have the charge rate automatic built into the device. There are several on the market, I purchased a powermax brand off of ebay last time and have had very good results with it. It seems that the 45 amp unit has been good for a number of years, so for the reason that if you increase the amperage, you will need to increase wire sizes to your battery, I would try to replace with exact same size. What location are you in? There are several members if close enough will be happy to assist you on a first hand basis. Except for the fact that circuit board appears to be toasted, you should be able to cut the old converter loose and rewire the new one. If you do not feel comfortable making this change, it may time to call in a tech. If you do attempt to make the change yourself, please make sure all batteries, both house and chassis are disconnected, and the shore power is disconnected, SAFETY FIRST!!!!

Just a thought, since vacuum is pressure in reverse, is there a way that a small amount or pressure can be applied, many ac repairmen use nitrogen for this, but air for toilet will be sufficient, this way the old soap bubble test can be used.

Yep, the 100 amp seems to run too hot for the area that it is mounted in, and 75 is plenty enough to keep up. I'm sure that overheating was the culprit that caused the demise of the 100 amp. Best remedy was to go down in size, otherwise the 100 amp would need to be ducted to the outside.

This is why I suggested attaching a good battery charger directly to the battery, as earlier stated I feel strongly that the converter is too weak to keep up with the demand. I put a 100 amp converter in my coach first, it lasted less than a year then would not keep up with demand. I replaced it with a 75 amp and has worked much better and many times longer than the first.

Does the battery when connected stay charged while on shore power? I don't understand why you would want to disconnect it if all works well when connected. Your unit may be wired in such a way that will not charge without the battery connected. Many smart chargers will not show any charge if no battery is present.

With a good battery charger attached to the house battery while on shore power, does the reefer and pump work? Any circuit breaker can be tested with a VOM, disconnect the wires going to and away from it, be sure to mark where each one goes back, set the reading on the vom to read ohms, place the leads to the vom across the two terminals, the meter should read zero on the breaker, this indicates a "short" or closed circuit, on a breaker that is what you want. If these are truly circuit breakers, there should only be two wires attached and will have some type of reset as Carl is asking about. If more than two, you are probably looking at relays, especially if it is a socket type. If it is a relay, checking each one you might try removing at a time and replacing it with another with the same markings as the one replaced, then check to see if the 12+ volts has returned to the battery. Do you have any wiring schematics on your unit? Let us know if this helps. One other thing comes to mind, while pushing the button to connect the batteries together, have someone check the pump and reefer to see if they work.

12.5 volts from the converter sounds very low for charging, I would expect 13.4 to at least 13.8 when plugged into shore power. Although you said that there is only 3 volts to the battery connection. Do you have a diode based, or relay based isolator? I would suspect diode based on the older model, but you can tell by looking at it, If diode based you will probably see the housing to be aluminum with heat sink finn's. The problem seems to lye between the converter and or the isolator, especially since everything works with the motor running. If the battery is marginal, the charging converter may not be able to overcome. For starters I would put in a known good battery, just borrow it from some other place and install to see if the non working units work for a while. If this works and that battery loses power, then I would try putting on a good battery charger on the battery while everything is still working. If this works then the above section of this post is probably the culprit. But again, I would not rule out a faulty battery. Good luck hunting.

There is a device that can be plugged into the cig lighter or accessory outlet that uses small batteries to keep from having to reset those kind of devices. Be sure that the outlet that you choose will keep working with the ignition switch in off position, otherwise you will need to leave accessories on and remain on all the while the negative is disconnected. Here is one listed at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/12V-Automotive-Settings-Keeper-Battery/dp/B002C0NP5I/?tag=leosm1-20

Another advantage to using a tow dolly is that the braking system on the dolly stays with it. Also I modified mine to a tandem tow which gives a place to place the golf cart or anything else that would require either a pickup or trailer. And of course the trailer addition is illegal in many states. A tow dolly will not work well for towing a rear wheel drive vehicle.