kaypsmith

Yes when going down the road, digital TV's on antennas, especially on directional antennas the signal will tend to go in and out. Digital TV's use an error correction code, software built into the tv that helps correct for bitt loss, when the signal has been lost too long, and the buffer has depleted, you will experience outages that appear in different ways than an old analog set. A signal booster can help sometimes, and there are stronger and weaker signal boosters available, but as Bill pointed out I would start with the antenna.

There is also a checkvalve built into the waterpump, not too elaborate, just a rubber diaphragm, with too high water pressure some bypassing can also go on there. When I plumb a coach, I use a commercial grade checkvalve between the pump outlet and the house plumbing to help preserve the one built into the pump. Also please note that a small grain of sand or any other debris can lodge in this backflow device causing it to FAIL.

Since you are using it on electric, not gas, if you can get access to the control board, there may be a relay that is faulty, or maybe just a poor 12 volt connection to the control board that is not holding the relay and causing multiple tries. The control board is 12 volt DC since it serves as gas or electric, even a poor ground to the control board can cause problems. And as Rich says, the mixing valve maybe the culprit.

Is the clicking sound a single click or multiple clicks each time it does it?

Well Rich, there is a third, 91 is probably an 8V92, unless it has been changed out. The C50 and 60 series were the 4 stroke models that started being installed in the later 93 vehicles. If it is an 8V92, it is a two stroker, 475 to 500 HP depending on the computer settings. It is a very strong and beefy engine. 8 cylinder models in hilly terrain will behave very well, and are capable of using Jacob braking, you will need to determine whether yours has this or not. Depending on how you drive it will determine what fuel mileage you can achieve. I run a 6V92, 335 HP, and average 6 to 7.8 with a gross of 39,000#, 8 will actually do a little better under some conditions. Unfortunately, mechanics are getting harder to find due to the dying breed of this beast, but Detroit still can service, and parts are reasonably easy to obtain. If it is a C series, it will be a 4 stroker, and mechanics are available almost anywhere, as it is a widely used engine in freight tractors. The two stroke models will require more oil replacement as most are known leakers for reasons that I wont divulge here unless asked. Good luck with your purchase, and if the engine was misrepresented for the sale, many states have some recourse that you might wont to look into. But you did ask if they were any good, it is a million mile motor if properly maintained, mine currently 262000 on the second rebuild. Also if it is a two stroke, you will need to use single weight oil, as the engine is not designed for multi-viscosity, ie. 15W40, many mechanics will tell you OK, and for running purposes, it is, but the leaking really becomes excessive if used.

I did not see your age group, but as one grows older, it does seem to affect different people in many ways. I'm not referring necessarily to old age, but more about maturity. Our thought processes tend to change our habits, as well as our habits. The things we have learned our rv's pretty much remain the same although newer trchnology is always evolving. No very few of us weigh all four corners every time we go out, but that is something we need to know, so once you have done so, there is no need to do it very often, unless of course you are a rock collector like Lucy. LOL. But if you do a remodel or your RV, it might be time to do it again. If you are uncomfortable backing into a space, it is probably time to take a refresher course in how to handle these circumstances. But I certainly hope that if you enjoy the lifestyle, as my family has, this will not become a handicap. Incidently, welcome to the forum, let us know if we can answer any questions. Kay

George, as Herman said thanks for letting us know what the resolution was, it is helpful to us as a means to help others.

In Alabama, an rv is the only vehicle that does not require a tag to be renewed in the same month that it is due in, as long as it is not being driven on the public roads. For instance, all are due in October/November, but if you do not drive it until March, you can go to the tag office in March before driving it, no penalty is assessed, and the tag will be prorated for the rest of the year. Of course you will be required to sign an affidavit that it has not been driven on any public road during this period. The same is true for the liability portion of your insurance. Be sure that you are driving at any time without either on the public roads, the penalty will be the same if caught driving without. Most are unaware of the law concerning this but you can confirm it at the courthouse, or visit the Alabama DMV. gov website. The technical name for this tag type is , "apportioned".

Assuming that everything is square and plumb, if this is not true, almost any fix will be hard to achieve. The slide rails should be square to the floor edge, then each of the three slide rails should be perfectly parallel with each other, this point is critical on both the slide, and the floor of the coach. To achieve this two people will need to work together in checking the distances from rail one to rail two, then from rail one to rail three. These distances are critical! Also what grade is the bolts that are being used? While replacing the bolts, the ones that will be carrying the heaviest load could be upgraded to grade 8 if they are not already that. The heaviest load will be the ones that are the furthermost ones inside the coach. Don't know your particular unit, but this is a fix that can be applied to almost any slide rail assembly. Good luck with your repair, especially if you are doing it yourself.

That is correct, no arsenic since 2004, but either zinc or copper oxide is still used in its place, thanks to the good ole EPA, the newest form still helps deter insects.

My largest concern, make sure that the comprehensive part stays in effect 365.25. That is the part that covers glass breakage and storm damage. I have a policy that the liability portion can be put on hold, all we have to do is call the day before we leave, it goes into effect as soon as we call and stays in effect until we return, there is a 30 day minimum each time we call.

I think that I may have figured out why the etrailer person that you may have inquired about the bike rack is confused. He probably thinks that you are asking about a Harley Fat Boy bike, that's one like someone like me would have to ride! But here is one that etrailer sells, it does not say it is for a motorhome, but is rated for up to 60 lbs., per bike. http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Bike-Racks/Kuat/N101.html Just tell the salesperson that Kay want be riding the bike while in transport. Good luck finding one.

60 pounds each times 2 = 120, and the weight of the rack, 80 to 100 pounds, about 220 at the most, is what I would guess. That's about the average weight of a guy my size. A class 1 receiver, (1 1/4) inch hitch, will carry 300 pounds tongue weight, just doesn't seem too heavy to me on a bounder. Of course one can be mounted on the front and one on the rear, with equal distribution. That just seems like an overkill. Have you considered one of those aluminum wheel chair carriers with a built on ramp like Harbor freight sells, can be easily rigged to carry two of those type bikes. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=wheel+chair+carrier After looking up your bike, I don't think you will have any problem with them on the back with any rack that is rated for the weight of the two. I was using class 1 hitch only as a reference point to demonstrate what a small load that will handle. I'm reasonably sure that your hitch is at least a class 3, if you do not already have a hitch, I would recommend at least class 3, It is the 2 inch receiver.

Maybe Flo just makes you feel safer. I have Allstate, been thinking of changing, sometimes I think Mayhem is following me.

Carl, you might check the ground cable hookup for the charge line, it probably does not go all the way to the coach battery, and may have not been getting a proper ground somewhere in the system. I would pull the charge line from your battery, and use an incandescent 12 volt light bulb 15 watts or larger to check how bright it is. A volt meter does not pull enough draw to properly test the set up, but a light bulb can easily tell what is happening.

That is a definite NO!NO!. I limit to 450 miles, have no fuel gauge. Usually takes 60 to 75 gallons to refill, depending on driving conditions.

Is it possible that the rollers are just riding on top of the rails instead of down inside as they should be? Possibly they have dislodged because of some excessive play, and need to be reinstalled back inside the rails. If this is a possibility, I think there could be a simpler solution than removing the genset. I will pm my e-mail to you.

I don't know which to reply to! Well here goes my assessment, I have a 150+ tank, when arriving home, I go to the nearest fuel stop, 4 miles from the residence, I do top off the tank. So it sits at this location, sometimes two weeks, sometimes three months, depending on the time of the year. When I get ready to leave home, the coach is always ready to go. This keeps down worry about condensation in the tank, and I do add algaecide just before the winter months, which is when it does sit for the longest period of time. The coach is capable of carrying the weight, and it does get lighter as you drive.

Eraser was a much needed tool in my tool bag 30 years ago on the mini computer, not to be confused with micro computer, which is what your PC is today. The multilayered boards were 14" by 14" with edge connectors 3/4 of the way across, had to make bi-monthly service return calls back then.

I bet Herman remembers Buddy Jones. Hope you all enjoy this.

I prefer braless for mine also. A little elbow grease and rubbing compound makes stainless steel look better each time.

Thanks for clarifying that point Brett, and as stated, only the two drive axle brakes are spring loaded and are the only ones holding in the park position of an air system.

It does state 60 feet excluding bumpers, maybe you can subtract the bumpers of each item and get by with it. LOL I think these are RV laws, not commercial rig laws. Here is more for reading enjoyment https://connect.ncdot.gov/business/trucking/Documents/North%20Carolina%20Law%20-%20Commercial%20Vehicles.pdf

SLSettles, each state varies about the overall length. Here is a AAA listing, http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-dimensions/, many on this forum have different opinions about the validity of the laws concerning this question. While the probability of you ever being stopped may be slim to none, the law is the law. Also remember that while your driver license and tag is reciprocal, the laws concerning the vehicle lengths, weights, and other items are not. Also please note that the website may be out of date with what is current, so a call the DMV of that state may be in order.