kaypsmith

You could install a 50 amp air conditioner quick disconnect box right ahead of your current plug in. Can be picked up at most box store building supply, that way you are not wearing out the 50 amp breaker, or sloshing beer all over the place.

I prefer the stainless steel cookware that is designed for induction cooking. If you do not have an induction cooktop, these work well on gas or electric. The stainless steel version for induction have a layer of cast iron clad between the outer layers of stainless, making for more even heat throughout the cooking surface.

I'm dealing with the same issue on my old 6V92, hope it works out as easily as yours Ray.

Herman, I've been looking for a " recuperating saw" for a long time, where did you get yours?

I have 6 feet of 50 amp cord that pulls back inside the coach and remains there, I carry a fifteen foot 50 amp extension that can and usually is added at the campgrounds many times, then I also carry a 30 foot 50 amp that can be used in place of the 15 footer. Only once have I been in a situation that I actually had to use both 15 and 30 feet to make a total of 51 feet if needed. I coil the 30 foot into a 5 gallon plastic bucket and the 15 foot on top of the 30 foot in the same bucket which I have room for in my electrical bay. The bucket serves very well, especially for coiling purposes.

I used to carry an Emerson brand from a target store, used bottled water in it. The unit is still working after 7 years and still works well.

Welcome to the forum SARSteve, and welcome to the world of motor homing. Every day is a new adventure, and if you're not happy with what happens today, just stick around and see what happens tomorrow. Kay

It will most likely be the filter under the kitchen sink. If you have already replaced the filter, you will need to purge the water line to the ice maker. To do so you will need to remove the small line that is attached to the ice maker with water off. Then use a clear glass jar or drinking glass to let water run into after turning the water back on. Let the glass fill and check for those impurities and discard, do this several times until the water is clear. If the black specs still remain in the ice, dump the ice a couple more times and recheck.

Ray, keep us posted and our prayers will be with Hana and you

By nature, if you increase the pull weight dynamics of a hitch, the tongue weight capabilities will increase also. Whether you use that factor or not is purely a choice that is yours. The trailer toad appears to be a good idea for reducing the extra weight added to your chassis. But I believe that the coach manufacturer does need to be the one with the final say as to how much pull weight that anyone's coach is capable of pulling for safety reasons. For instance if you are only pulling in Florida or any other state that is reasonably flat, you probably can get by with pulling some extra load, but the engineer that designed your coach is compelled to take into consideration all factors, such as 7% and sometimes even greater slopes. With all this said, I believe that the manufacturer of the coach, and the manufacturer of the trailer toad should be posed with your questions for obvious reasons. The weakest link will always be there unless you know for sure what that may be, and make necessary adjustments to correct them, not saying that it can't be done, but there are too many factors to just guess. Only you will know for sure when you come across an unsafe situation, and can decide whether to go there or not. Enjoy your motorhome and enjoy all the beauty that you encounter on your many journeys.

My coach has a very nice enclosure around the parking brake with a spring loaded cover covering it, I have to lift the cover to engage or release the brake. School bus drivers in my state are required to pump the brakes to use up any stored air before leaving the driver seat, with no air the parking brake cannot be released.

OK, the base comes in a box with no legs attached, it can be mounted right on top of your slide box without attaching any legs at all. I do not have a concern for accessing the motor through a motor box as the bed does not cover the access inside my coach. Actually I was referring to the diesel coach motorbox, many diesel pushers have a box built over the diesel motor, you must lift the top to access the diesel motor in such a configuration. The motorized bed frame measures from the bottom of the base to the top of the foundation that the mattress rest's on is slightly less than 9 inches, I am using a 10 inch memory foam mattress, and with 10 inch legs, from floor to top of the bed is 29 inches, please remember this measurement is with the bed in the flat position, and of course when you raise the head of the bed this will increase as the head goes higher, and same for the foot end of the bed. The bed does decrease in length when raising both head and foot ends by close to 12 inches. I tried to attach pictures but could not attach more than 5.09 k, less than half the size of a postage stamp, therefore such a picture is useless. I did PM you a message and will be glad to send them to you otherwise, while I try to set up a photo bucket account. Hope my description is not too confusing, will try to clarify if needed. One other thought, mattresses can be bought ranging from 6 to 18 inches in thickness to help with height concerns. Just added shutterfly account "https://kaypsmith.shutterfly.com/pictures/20". Kay

I like the wasp spray idea, and be sure to post the NRA lifetime member sticker in very prominent locations, maybe even a tag next to the FMCA Egg.

Very good point Brett, reminds me of the old days when we installed a cut-out on the exhaust system for a needed short burst, LOL. Of course we already had headers.

Here is the L&P Q&A page: http://www.lpadjustablebeds.com/faq.asp My bed is not controlled independently, both sides raise and lower with only one control. The King size version will have two controls and you will need a split mattress. Yes the bed frame is heavier than just a mattress on top of the motor box, but it can be fastened down to the motor box. A simple rig can be used to lift the foot end and still provide motor access. If he has a memory foam mattress already and is comfortable sleeping on it, can be used on the adjustable bed. I did find special fitted sheets to use on the adjustable bed so we do not have to use suspenders to keep the sheet in place. There are several brands available, but I chose L&P because of support. The bed control box plugs into 110 volt outlet, but transforms to 36 volts, it comes with an auxiliary box that you install 4 nine volt batteries into which can be used in an emergency situation. Yes, I did get a chuckle out of "articulating", as I was thinking about moving right to left. Good luck with your search bobodell, if you have any questions that I might answer, feel free to PM anytime. Just looked, again, and there is a split queen now available, would need to change mattress to split. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGGETT-AND-PLATT-SIMPLICITY-SPLIT-QUEEN-ADJUSTABLE-BED-new-ADD-MEMORY-FOAM-/171822350239?hash=item280168ff9f:g:dzIAAOSwpdpVb17E Kay

I don't believe that I have ever seen an articulating bed before, sounds pretty uncomfortable. I do have an adjustable bed by Legget and Platt "the head and feet move up and down", in my motorhome with a memory foam mattress, queen size. I ordered it off e-bay, and have been very happy with the results. My wife has esophagus disorders and requires that she sleep with her upper body elevated. All sizes are available, but I don't know if the shorter RV size platform is available, but I would bet that it is.

If not heard of, Kroil oil, can be googled by that name, will creep better and last longer than any other that I have used.

Just don't let it freeze and burst, this will shorten the life expectancy.

Joe, what is the exact hole size that you will need? That same company has several different ones available. Also, you might consider a stainless steel filler, I have a friend that has helped me out in the past, using 16 gauge stainless steel. If you have the exact size, or you, can make a cardboard template, he uses a plasma cutter, then can polish to a mirror finish, just PM me if this is an option that you want to explore.

I checked the appliance, it states 1800 watts maximum draw, divided by 120 equals 15 amps. This is one unit, and 475 degrees max temperature. 14 gauge wire will run only one unit on 15 amp breaker, or 10 gauge, with a 30 amp breaker for two will be needed. We use only one at a time in the coach and have no problems. Also my wife does stack cook on occasion and that works out very well for us.

The Towmate brand wireless tow lights work very well, most of the newer tow trucks are using this brand for reliability.

Doc Mike, I ordered my set off e-bay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magma-Products-Gourmet-Nesting-10-Piece-Induction-Stainless-Steel-Cookware-Set-/172030557851?hash=item280dd1fe9b:g:Ot0AAOSwSHZWcARG this set is ceramic lined, we really love the quality. Also saw a nice set at Costco last week, bearing the Wolfgang Puck name brand, it does not nest and we like the nesting capability of the ordered one for storage purposes in the motorhome. Wherever you purchase, be sure that it is designed for induction cooking if using on an induction cooktop. There is an iron core embedded between layers of stainless steel on the ones designed for induction cooking. By the way, I have never seen an aluminum set designed for induction cooking. As I stated in the earlier post, cast iron works well, we make cornbread in a cast iron skillet right on the induction cooktop. PM me, I will be glad to share how it is done. Kay

In radio lingo, smoke is the magic that makes the radio work, if you let it out, radio ceases to work. Back to the original post, the higher the amp draw through a fuse terminal, the more likely you will see corrosion sooner than the lower amp draw terminals.

We use Nu Wave brand, have one for the home, and one for the motorhome. Fifty percent of the cooking at home is done on one, and about 95 percent while camping. As DD690 said it uses 50% less electricity than standard cooktops, heats much faster. You do have to make sure that the cookware that you use has an iron core so that the magnetism can do its thing. We have a very nice set of stainless steel made for induction cooking which is a nesting set, meaning that everything is conveniently stored within the stock pot. You can use just plain old ironware and it works great. I will also add that the heat is so accurate that even people that normally will only use gas stoves, once trying this method, love it also. If you can use an electric fry pan on your 30 amp service, one of the countertop induction units will work fine.

Hope you sued the gas station, they were responsible for their employee's action. That's why you must use a resistive load for testing, be sure the wattage of the test light is less than the fuse that you are testing.