kaypsmith

Pressure inside the coach being less than the outside pressure is usually the largest source of letting those bad smells into the coach, much like a vacuum cleaner, it is in a sucking mode. Making sure that the inside pressure is higher will lessen the odors. While traveling the wind will tend to suck those odors out of the tanks. Your shower and sinks have p-traps that hold water for keeping the odor out as well as the water and valve in the toilet. Those Cyclone/Siphon vent caps do help, as while driving they direct the scent towards the back of the coach. Raising the inside pressure will have a positive effect for you, close all outside sources of air, and recirculate the AC should help.

Exactly as Brett said, also just for cautionary reference, do not allow AC neutral or grounds to make contact to the bus chassis. The bus converters bible is a very good tool if you are doing the conversion yourself. No connection by me to the book, you can google it.

Don't know what kind of beetles they are, and I would like to know. I have had Japanese Beetles, "orange with black spots", some call them "lady bugs", at my home, and placing moth balls at the area where hibernate, helped in driving them away.

I know this is a little late, and is the opposite of your question. I worked on a friends 4000 watt Cummins/Onan Saturday two weeks ago, he has burned up two starters in two years, while working and getting it back to running. I noticed that when he pressed the kill button, he continued to hold that button till the engine completely stopped. When I showed him that all that was necessary to push then release, he explained that no one had told him this. What was happening, holding that button, he was actually flooding the carburetor, causing the next start to be a hard start.

While doing the conversion, I installed a wire trace which makes it possible to add wires almost anywhere in or out of the bus. As Brett said if you can find the old wire it will be much easier than any other way on a motorhome. But my old Sportscoach had a backup camera wire that became unusable, I found the easiest route was to go through the firewall where other wires were already routed, then all the way to the back under the motorhome, using black wire ties, then up to the roof under the rear cap. If you have to resort to this method, and your coach has airbags, please put down the leveling jacks, and then for extra precaution use appropriate jack stands under the coach while you or whoever is doing this.

Hope you enjoy the new to you Dolphin and many happy tales, and trails. Kay

Ross, you are right, but I set the volume on my tv to the maximum level, then set the volume on the surround sound to the most that I will ever want to hear it, then the tv volume control will actually work. Probably not the same on every system, so it is good to know every possibility.

Make sure the tow bar is parallel with the ground, if it is not, adjust the height of the hitch at the coach to make it parallel. If the hitch is not correct, can cause your described symptoms. And welcome to the forum, Kay

Lyle, probably as simple as moving the receiver audio cables from the dvd player to the tv audio output connections. If the dvd is hdmi to the tv, that is all you should have to do, if avi cables from dvd to tv, then you will need to hook audio cables from dvd audio output to tv audio input. After doing this everything should output from the tv to the receiver/surround sound. This should not affect the dish receiver. Good luck, Kay

Has the 30 amp worked fine in the past? You probably have a control in the motorhome that detects whether on 50 amp or 30 amp. If so, I would suspect that it has shut out the circuit with the water heater to stop an outage because of overdraw. 30 amp is 120 volts from one source of your electricity. The cheater adapter splits the one source and distributes it to both sides of your electric panel in the coach. The fact that will work on generator indicates that all is well with the heater. If you need the heater at home, you will probably have to install 50 amp service at home.

Try this web page http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=one+step+a%26e+awning+otor&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=one+step+a%26e+awning+motor&_sacat=0 It is an ebay page with several A&E motors listed. I have the repair manual downloaded in pdf and will try to pm that to you. It has complete instructions for replacement. Kay

Welcome to the Forum. As Erniee asks, one would need something more about your coach, in order to give a good answer. What brand is it, is it a diesel pusher? If a pusher, most of them, not all, have motor access under that queen bed and are raised which will make it a difficult job. If a gasser or even a pusher that does not have that to contend with, might be easy,

Sign makers can make decals that you can place in an area that you want to remind not to do certain things, with a little imagination it can be worded to be decorative and reminding at the same time. You will be surprised how inexpensive they can be. Something like "Gentle on my mind, not only a song by Glen Campbell, also how to close my door!!!"" Kay

As Rich said, check the wiring of the house batteries, it appears that 4 6 volts were installed in 2014, if they were incorrectly wired, could cause ruination of the 6 volt batteries. Two sets of the four should be in series, "positive to negative" with wires connecting in this manner, then the two sets should be in parallel with the charging system, "positive to positive to positive" and "negative to negative to negative". If any of the four batteries are wired with 6 volts are connected directly to 12 volts, will certainly be over charging and cause the symptom that you have described.

Toad or not to Toad, that is a question, only Prince Charming could give a good answer to, and he was kissed by a pretty young maiden. But seriously, please don't let anyone push you into. I have owned a 27 foot gasser class A, seemed a good idea to just crank it up and go to the store, but if you are hooked up and only need a quart of milk, you soon learn that unhooking and rehooking is not hardly worth the effort, so you start carrying powdered milk in the cupboard. There are many places that you can go see many sights that you want need a toad, some have public transportation, and some actually have many items at the camp "Store/office" for sale. My DW loves to have everything that we might need at her fingertips, making it necessary to own a larger coach, another expense trading up, and now it really is not practical to not have a toad. A trailer is easier to back, but as ObedB points out, there is the extra weight, and also where do you leave it while parked in the park, many parks want allow it and some just don't have enough space. I use a tow dolly most of the time, but I do own a car that can be towed 4 down, and can use it when needed. So with all said, you and only can really decide for your situation. Another quote " My two cents, but if you have an opinion someone may jump on you." Good luck deciding, and hope you have as many fond memories as we do. Kay P.S. you were posting as I was writing, this is very true, a rental is sometimes a good alternative, but rates are different in different locations.

Welcome to the forum, have sent you a PM, check your e-mail. Kay

You will probably be amazed at how much more power and better fuel mileage if the leak is before the turbo.

Both my coaches that had rubber roof's had 3/4 plywood under the rubber, the first had one thickness, and the last double making it a very heavy coach. I think that the fiberglass will have one layer, this should strengthen for walking purposes. Joe has pretty much covered the maintenance portion for both. Kay

I currently have aluminum also, but that is the way a bus is built, and I love it, but probably not available on regular motorhome. I have owned two motorhomes with rubber roof's, and there is upkeep to them, but the recoat every six months is a stretch. It will last a lot longer as any kind will if cleaned regularly. It will need resealing eventually. I prefer fiberglass myself, but proper cleaning and regular visual inspections are necessary with them also. Just my opinions, there will be many. Kay

Only time that I have seen a frame crack was when someone had welded something onto the frame, or had drilled the frame. Overloading, or wreck normally will only bend the frame.

If the above posts do not find what you need, Bobs RV Salvage in High Springs Fla., has a huge yard of salvage RV's. This a big dumping ground as many RV's die on I75 in the area. Google the name, and you will find the phone number, they do not have a web site.

Check under the benches for plumbing, ducting, and electrical, if none, simply start by removing the items that you want to remove. If there is any or all of these items, then you need to address this and either reroute the working items, or plan to build, or have built as DD69 suggested. I used the same space with two chairs facing the wall with a fold down table attached to the wall that we use as a table, or desk, then if the space is needed for extra bedding, an air mattress can be placed there. Yes I have done this in a previous motorhome.

The trailer looks good, but when I was looking at the Smart 4-2 two years ago, the Smart was very user friendly for towing 4 down, if yours is I would bet the towbar for it would be much less than the trailer. There is an ultra lite towbar made for the smart, and no base plate was needed for the 2014 model. There is tow points made behind the front fenders, that the towbar is made to attach to. There have been several post about the Smart, simply go the search bar from the main forum page and enter Smart car to find other post about this. Welcome to the forum, Kay.

Brett was responding while I was posting. He is correct. Kay

Diodes failing, or possibly a faulty wiring hookup could certainly cause a backfeed to the RV brakelights, and possibility of causing a short situation which I can foresee a problem that could lead to your situation. I recently posted about not altering wiring the electrical harness due to the modification could lead to a warranty denial on a KIA Soul. I was chastised and told that a claim could not be denied for this reason due to the (Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act). I read the act thoroughly, which you can do online also. After carefully reading the law, I believe that the dealer is in his rights to deny a claim. Although it may be worth your reading the law as well for a better understanding. Good luck on getting these problems resolved, Kay