kaypsmith

Carl, may or may not be true, would depend on how the coach is sitting when it was parked. The leveling valves will consistently try to level the coach until all air is depleted in the absence of air not being added back to the system. If it is an automatic air leveling system, then it should level as nearly as possible and depending on the system may even be designed to lower the coach to the lowest level point before locking the air bag lock valves. Anyway I came back to the post realizing that I forgot to add (without adequate jack stands and blocking). Great that the OP plans to do his own maintenance, just be sure to do it safely. templeandgary, please be aware that there is really NO STUPID QUESTIONS, just ones that we don't know the answer to, and it would be more STUPID on our part if we didn't ask them, thanks to this forum and many more good ones, we are able to ask them.

Congratulations on the new coach. Is this new coach new to you, or new to the world? If new to the world, surely there is an owners manual to help explain the lowering within 10 minutes. Now for the most important stuff, NEVER EVER crawl under any vehicle that uses air bags as springs, coach, truck, or what ever without knowledge of whether you would fit under that vehicle if it were completely unaired and the bags lowered to their lowest point even if the vehicle is running and producing air, This rule should always apply even under a hydraulically lifted device or machine. One never knows that there may be a failure of the system, a sudden leak or puncture of the bags or even a fitting giving up could happen at any given moment. Hope you have many smiles and miles with the new coach.

Neater and longer lasting, I don't always use crimp ferrules but in an overheating or where the wire end gets a lot of pulling situation (in remote controls), they really work great.

Also check for manifold and exhaust leaks.

I don't know if you have roadside assistance or not. But a call to them may help with towing. I use AAA and am covered on the MH as well as the other cars in the family, I pay extra for that service, and have been towed from home due to circumstances similar to yours.

Good morning, after the above tests, I only have one more. With the ignition off and key removed, and shore power disconnected and generator off, please use the domestic kill switch and place in the off position. With the kill switch off in the off position check the voltage on those large terminals, both sides to ground. The chassis side should read 12+ volts and the house side should read 0 (not uncommon to see .354 or some other crazy low number). Please record the results and let us know. Next, start the engine and again check voltage on both terminals to chassis ground and let us know the results. When the kill switch was on, we should have been seeing about the numbers posted because both battery banks were incorporated, though it is uncommon to see two banks when disconnected from each other be exactly the same. The test that I am having you do now will tell if the relay is actually working or not. Don't forget to turn that domestic switch back on after the test and of course plug back shore power. Good luck.

Yep, calling it a night here also, incidentally, that isolator relay should become unlatched with the ignition switch turned off. You should not see voltage on both large lugs with the ign off, if you do something is either shorted or somehow miswired. I'll check back in the AM. Rain is also predicted here, and I am going to pull my generator as soon as weather permits, it has a leaking radiator that occurred a couple weeks ago while vacationing in Florida.

Okay, now put the ground wire back on the LE415, and follow that ground wire over to other end, the wire is supposed to be connected to another relay, that relay is a time delay relay, unplug that wire and retest to see if the isolator drops voltage on one side. If it doesn't drop voltage then next go to the relay marked battery isolator lockout, and unplug the white wire terminal, being sure to mark and remember which spade that it goes back to and retest and let us know the results. Great work on your part, thanks for keeping up.

Thanks Jim, I saw your post and did investigate, as stated not cheap but could be helpful for those who have the ability to pay and need that service. Happy trails, Kay!

Yes, the isolator relay is not unlatching now causing the voltage to carry over to the alternator (not good). Now, remove the ground wire from the LE415 and perform the same test and let us know the results. Forgot to say why not good, because the isolation circuit is not unlatching will cause your chassis batteries to discharge while not running if demand exceeds the inverter ability to keep up, or no shore or generator power.

Floyd, please remember that the green LE415 is not the isolator, it's a battery maintainer. The isolator on your coach is the big relay which is also your battery combiner, it's a dual purpose relay used to combine battery banks both when you push the button and also when the coach is running and the alternator is producing current. When alternator current is not present, the relay should remain open, while coach is running, it should close, this is how the alternator is able to charge the house batteries. To test while running, both large terminals to chassis ground you should see 12+ volts, when not running, only one side will be hot if all is correct.

I have also been successful with confectioners sugar mixed with plaster of paris equally, then place a soda cap with water in it, works pretty well on most ants and roaches. This remedy locks up their digestive system.

It's only a maintainer designed to keep the battery charged that is not receiving a charge from either the alternator or inverter, if charge is not happening on either then it will not try to charge . If you notice in the original picture there are three small boxes side by side, the one in the middle is marked isolator lockout, the one to the right is not marked, but your schematic signifies that it is a slide lockout. Both of these are connected to the LE415 through a ground bus bar, the ground bus bar is activated by the negative terminal on the maintainer, it appears that the ground bus bar is isolated from chassis ground unless it sees ground from the maintainer. In turn, the large relay, the one with two large wires and two small wires is not receiving ground (small wire on left is normally positive) while a relay depends on both ground (small wire on right) to be activated at the same time otherwise it will not close. The closing of this relay is what causes both chassis and house batteries to combine to maintain charge when the alternator is producing current. If you notice on your schematic someone has penciled in that this same relay is also your auxiliary battery combiner (the switch inside) which actually overrides the lockout system. The lockout goes directly to a delay relay that actuates the large relay by means of signaling the ground ( - ) side of that relay. Hope this helps. Rich emailed me earlier to tell you that he has gone to doctor today and asked me to try to help with your problem while he is away.

The green thing is the same as a Bird relay, you need to be looking at what makes the relay activate for now.

Floyd, here is some very important reading for you in trouble shooting your situation. https://www.dixie-electric.com/tsb/TSB_704.pdf Your system incorporates a Duvac (dual voltage acceptance controller), this pdf covers trouble shooting very well.

Just a word about todays wiring versus that of many years ago. The vinyl jacket (insulation) on todays wire is made largely from soybeans, rodents love it and are attracted to the smell and flavor. My wife's new KIA a few years ago was attacked by squirrels that ate the insulation causing similar damage. I was instructed by the KIA dealer to tie a ladies hose end filled with a few moth balls under the hood, I did this and have had no further problems since.

Okay, done more checking, the green thing called a battery maintainer, is actually a Lambert LE415, 15 amp battery charger, instead of 120 volt ac in, it uses 12 volt dc in and a sophisticated diode circuit inside and is supposed to maintain 12 volts on either side at the rate of 15 amps. If green light is on, it is supposed to be working properly, green light off not.

Original finish may be lacquer, a test of acetone or lacquer thinner can be used in a very small area on the inside of a door will tell the tail, if poly, the finish will curl, if lacquer, it will only moisten the finish.

Same system that I worked on last fall, the green box supplies the voltage to the relay in the picture to close the relay when it sees current from the alternator. The wire that triggers it is within the wiring harness attached to the alternator not the main output of the alternator. The relay in the picture is also triggered by the aux power in the coach to combine the chassis and coach house batteries. If you push the combiner switch on the inside, then the switch activates, then the relay is ok, need to start checking the green diode box, if that is ok, the three square relays that shows battery isolation in the middle need to be tested, if all three of these are good then the wire on top needs to be traced all the way to the alternator. Pretty simple system but a little complicated as to how it works.

Hope the OP has gotten the unit operable by Now!

I believe this system is an isolator lockout system, it uses a diode based unit and transistors that actually engages the relay in the picture to engage the charging circuit from the coach alternator when it sees current from the coach alternator, if current is present, this will engage the relay to allow charging while coach is charging. I would start with the relay to make sure that it is functioning, if so, then the next place is the chassis wire to the alternator, if no 12 V there while the coach is running, either broken wire or bad connection to the alternator, if not that that, then the circuitry within the alternator. The three black boxes to the left of the green box is either transistors, or relays, all three work in conjunction with each other to cause the the circuit to work. Hope this helps.

Actually spin welding seems to be most recommended on both ABS and Polyethylene. Here is youtube video. Great job craigc51, hope it lasts as long as you want it to.

Most factory tanks are ABS, not poly. To test which it is, PVC glue, is a solvent which actually chemically welds PVC pipe together, so place a small piece of PVC pipe on the side of the tank using PVC glue, hold in place 10 seconds, if the pipe stays then your tank is poly. ABS is heat weldable and a similar test using ABS pipe and ABS glue. Of course you must clean either thoroughly for adequate results. If it is ABS then the heat process will work well, if poly, then the pvc glue will probably be enough to seal and hold for a long while.

Joe, here is what I recommend, in your case. Polishing Compound Polishing compound is a substance that is mildly abrasive. It is used to remove contaminants from the paint and will also smooth the paint by removing a small amount of paint. Polishing compound will remove light scratches in the finish of an automobile. Rubbing Compound Rubbing compound works in a similar manner to polishing compound, but is more abrasive. This means that the rubbing compound will remove more paint and is used for smoothing out larger scratches and other significant damage to the vehicle's painted surface. Tips for Use As polishing compound is less abrasive, it should be used first to correct problems with a vehicle's finish. If the polishing compound does not provide a satisfactory result, the more abrasive rubbing compound can then be used. Polishing compound may be needed after the use of rubbing compound to smooth out the paint. In your case I would use a lambs wool bonnet on a medium speed buffer first, if not adequate, then a sailcloth bonnet with the green rubbing compound, I buy it dry use a mortar and petal to crush then a few drops of kerosene to form a paste, when this process is complete then I go to white compound in the same manner. Kerosene, not diesel fuel, diesel will discolor, kerosene will not. By the way the same treatment on granite or marble works well for a lasting shine.

When working with Corian, for really bad jobs (Joe's are not that bad), I used a straight line air file with wet sandpaper, no swirls. I built cabinets as a trade for over 12 years and bought and resold Corian during that time. A DA (dual action) tool works well on random curves.