kaypsmith

Hopefully he has it started now, but would sure be nice for more details about not starting. But I guess that he means the starter is not doing anything since he said that he had the starter tested. As Herman said could be a bad solenoid, but most Chevy 454's had the solenoid on the starter in those days and if so whoever bench tested the starter surely tested that as well, if not and it is like my old 454 was back then the copper button may need some work. Other places to think about is the transmission in park or neutral, even I have forgot to place the shift lever in park or neutral and felt like a nut when I realized that it would never crank without being in the proper location. Of course there is a chance that the neutral switch has gone bad and caused no activity. Since this started earlier today and the OP has not returned, I hope that he has discovered the reason that it didn't crank by now.

Does the engine turn and wont start, or does the starter refuse to engage and turn over the engine?

I think that is a corporate decision. I have been turned away by two other LOVEs also, I will not buy diesel or anything else from Loves again as a result. I was in a pinch for a fuel filter, I carry a chair which I can sit in to change, only uses one (duel stage), they had one sitting on the shelf in front of me, would not even sell it to me to make my own repair since they wouldn't do the repair. Another repair was a tire change, I carry a spare.

If the flue (chimney) is restricted it will not light, as Brett indicated, go through the flue cleaning process, something as simple as a mud dauber best or bird nest can really mess up the thought process for making the fridge work on LP. Sorry for the change in subject, but other mentions here made me do it.

I assume that this is a typeO! If so, yes replace those tires before hitting the road, much more important than Sumo springs unless the coach is dragging. If it doesn't handle and drive well, then consider these. Hard tires, (old) do not drive or ride well either.

Brian, does both sides on the front drop, or just one side?

That's why I also add to any conversation about crawling under a coach to not do so without proper jack stands in place, I have seen this and other very bad results over the years, SO AGAIN NEVER CRAWL UNDER ANY VEHICLE WITH AIR BAGS WITHOUT PROPER EMERGENCY SUPPORT IN PLACE.

Thanks for sharing Richard, the cover looks good. I also have an older rig, but found a cover at a truck stop which I am using now. I have also seen some older steering wheels that had been epoxied and fiberglass covered that looked very good in the end.

The work required to remove vinyl graphics is a little slow and requires patience. But it is a job that almost anyone can do or get teenager to do for you at a much lower cost than $60.00 +, simply heat the vinyl very gently, starting at one corner and lifting the vinyl slowly and evenly fanning the heat gun left to right, back and forth. Just a little practice and almost anyone can do it. The adhesive that is left behind can be removed with denatured or rubbing alcohol. Once off then new can be applied or painted on if you really want those graphics, your choice. If you want decals back on, take the coach to a graphics shop, if the shop is worth its salt, they can make exact duplicates, or change colors at this time for a newer look.

Nan, if you have room for more batteries, you can continue using the 2 12V batteries in addition to adding more 6V batteries in pairs, ie. 2 6 or 4 6V in addition to the 2 12 V's already in place. If you decide to do this just ask here how to wire them correctly.

I met a man who lived in Tennessee who claimed that all his X's live in Texas, that's why he moved to Tennessee! The devil made me do it!

I use Directv and just acquire a satellite signal wherever I go. The local channels as stated by dd69 don't work too far away from home for me either, but that isn't a problem for me anyway. I have a DVR on my receiver and while at home I record many things that I might like to watch later, and watch those when I am too lazy to acquire a signal on the dish, this is many times as we are inclined to just stay overnight while in transit from home to a far off destination. Dish still offers a pay as you go plan and will send local signals to almost anywhere, just not your home channels because of contracts with local stations.

Last time that happened to me, I installed a new ground wire to resolve the problem, as Joe stated above. You can use a set of jumper cables, using only one cable from a good ground point to the generator ground point, if this is the problem, it should turn over just fine with this temporary fix.

The OP indicates that it is 3.5 gpm, that is not a lot to begin with, here is one on amazon that will give much better results than the one that you are using now. https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Water-Diaphragm-Pressure-Pump/dp/B01CO5N38E/ref=sr_1_56_sspa?crid=1IKTRIJ5G5OOA&keywords=rv+water+pump&qid=1554859160&s=gateway&sprefix=rv+water%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-56-spons&psc=1&smid=A3EBZ5HHZPL73

Using your pump, you should be able to turn only one faucet on with a 5 gallon bucket under it at full force. If the bucket gets 70% full in one minute, your pump is doing all that it was intended to do. If less than that you can look for other restrictions.

Should be no other modifications necessary other than making sure that everything goes back as found. Your electronic equipment will be glad to see the change, and now you wont need to be as pickey when choosing newer ones. Good luck.

OlYeller, welcome to the forum. Sorry for the loss of the DW, but glad to hear that you have decided to keep on keeping on. Congratulations on the rescue pup and good luck with that treasure. Stay in touch with the forum members, and if you have any questions or concerns about our favorite hobby, just ask here. You will not find a better group to converse with.Many happy tales and trails. Kay

Actually FIP means female iron pipe, and it is 1/2 inch pipe size. Yes almost any hardware or building supply has them, but 1/2 inch is used on kitchen or vanity plumbing. 3/4 is the size used on toilets.

Others may feel differently, but to me a trip on the Blue Ridge parkway in an auto or on a motorcycle is beautiful, but anything over 30 ft., is not the way I'd go, especially towing. Welcome to the forum and wishing you many happy tales and trails.

Wow, it is more expensive, depending on how and how much wireless internet you need, it uses four different wireless carriers which may be good, but I don't think that I can afford it unless I go commercial at some time.

If this is the case, it is the solenoid for aux battery power in the event of low battery on chassis side. There should be 12 V+ on both input and output side, more indication that there is something not making contact on the house battery side. As indicated by others, start at the house batteries and find every junction going to your 12 V control panel. There should be 12 V on both sides of each junction all the way to the 12 V control panel. Many of these units have a pair of fuses on the control panel that are placed there in the event of wrong polarity being accidently sent to the control panel They are usually 30 to 40 amp, and will only blow in the event of wrong polarity being introduced.

If you have no house 12 V when not plugged in to 120 volts, it sounds as though the house batteries are not doing their job. Check to see if the house batteries are in fact charged, if they are, then suspect a blown fuse or circuit breaker connecting the batteries to the house 12V system. The breaker or fuse is usually located in the battery compartment. And of course be sure to look for a salesman switch located near the entry door and make sure that it is not turned off.

I don't want to be a guinea pig, therefore I'll wait for someone else to find that out. Of course that is why you asked. I did try some flexseal spray on my aluminum roof, been there three years now, still no leak.

Ditto Brett!

Since we are on the subject of sanitizing the fresh water tank, do not over chlorinate your fresh water tank. Your pump uses black rubber diaphragms, O-rings, and the onboard check valve. Chlorine will cause the black rubber to disintegrate prematurely, thereby shorten the life of the pump. If you don't believe it, look at the black flapper valve in a S&B toilet where the city water is chlorinated. If you want to slow down replacing those flapper valves so often, replace them with a red or white rubber one next time. Also if your water tastes bad, clean the inside of the faucet end with vinegar, that is where the nasty taste comes from in most cases.