kaypsmith

Actually it is the other way around, sometimes not easy to downgrade without a restore copy, but some computers it is impractical to upgrade because of limitations of the older hardware, for instance, Windows 10 not will run well with only 4 gig ram, but it will be miserably slow and some motherboards will not accept more ram, just one example.

I know this has been discussed on several occasions on this forum, but I have some new news, I hope good. Some Windows 10 users believe that they could actually stop Windows 10 updates or at least postpone them forever with the Pro version. That has been untrue since the inception of Windows 10, Home version not even postpone them and Pro version some postponement of them but not an actual stop. You could have stopped them only by never allowing the PC to get onto the internet, this was the only way. Well this years spring update was renamed (SCU) was renamed April update, and this update actually gives the end user the ability to completely turn off future updates on both Home and Pro versions of Windows 10. Actually the April update was postponed but the newest (1903) is now available. Here is an article to read if you want become more familiar with it, and I highly recommend that Windows 10 users take advantage of this update A.S.A.P. https://www.howtogeek.com/402569/everything-new-in-windows-10s-april-2019-update/

Yes place motor on first, boat laid bottom down with transom against a rest which is hinged at the base of the assembly so that the transom carries the weight of the boat while being transported, attach the hook to the stem then winch the boat to upright position. A 10 foot jon boat should barely be above the back of most coaches, and memory serves me well, there are some about 9 feet. I'll dray it out this PM and try to post. I built something similar to hoist a tow dolly that worked well, the camper I built it for had problems with a place to park tow dolly in some campgrounds, after this device he simply raised the dolly and then backed into his campsite, of course after removing the toad.

Just trying to keep things straight. No, 5 watts is not much, I tried one of those 30 watt units on my nieces car one time because her battery kept draining enough that the car wouldn't start in 18 hours, 30 watts didn't help either. After two years, numerous batteries, alternators, and hooking up full time chargers, it was discovered that the trunk light was backwards, trunk open no light, trunk closed light came on, no one ever thought there was supposed to be a light in the trunk. LOL, I was only asked to put the solar panel on, and didn't realize that it was still a problem as no one bothered to tell me until after the car was replaced.

I haven't found commercial ones there, I have bought some there only to modify to fit in a pinch.

Actually would be pretty simple to build a Jon boat style, use a hitch extension, weld a six foot 2X2 tube vertical, then use 1.5X1.5 seven foot tube to slide inside for lowering when not needed, weld a motor mount onto the 2X2 tube at a convenient location, place a roller bar padded slightly wider than the boat sides. Use a 2000# electric winch with cable through the inside of the tube with a good pulley at the top, drill both tubes to allow a pin to hold up or down as needed. Don't know where your tag is located but a temporary location can be affixed at the end of the roller assembly with lights placed on each end to cover for any that time a boat is covering others. I'll try to draw it out and post when I have spare time. Of course you will want to have the boat bottom facing traffic, and this will allow for a place for the motor to ride going down the road, and since you used a hitch extension, simply put the hitch with ball, or tow bar in the extension for towing purposes still. I calculated the cost for parts, excluding welding (very minimal), less than $300.00.

Not quite correct, the system is 12 volt dc not 120 ac, at 12 volts .4 amps and 9 amps. .4 amps will almost keep up with a half amp drain during daylight hours.

There are those that can replace the old batman style, which was made to rotate from inside the coach by hand, the unit is self sealed to allow motion, the stationary base is caulked and they worked well. There is newer styles that electrically rotate (some are automatic) and some use a manual control box. The newest versions actually send the signal current through the coax so no other wiring is necessary to the antenna, just to the control box. Here is an example. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDTV-Directional-Over-the-Air-TV-Antenna-with-Mount-and-Signal-for-RV-Camper-NEW/312277539983?epid=2254580483&hash=item48b5311c8f:g:cTYAAOSwclVbz0G9

Hopefully will only be a sensor going bad, especially with no slow down or over speed of the engine. Good luck!

Hmmmm! Whether tag axel or no tag axel, u-joint or drive axels should be removed to protect the transmission. Tag axel on most coaches have nothing to do with the u-joint. My coach requires that the air supply to tag axel should be turned off to prevent the tag from carrying too much load if the front is lifted.

Here is an item that I use about every two months on the blades, we use it in printers and copying machines, it prolongs the life of the rubber many times longer than rubbing alcohol because it contains the right formula to rejuvenate the rubber. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAIG-RBR100L-25C-Rubber-Cleaner-and-Rejuvenator-25mL/321527462136?epid=1200148658&hash=item4adc87b8f8:g:4NoAAOSwVFlUGxg3 My blades are 28" and usually last 4 to 5 years, yes I do buy commercial blades also, pretty easy to find the correct blades in most truck stops.

Maybe someone thinks that if you put the leveler down that you are going to raise the coach and vice versa. I don't really know since it has been years since I last used hydraulic levelers.

Yes, and as Joe asked, what make and model.

DB, if you are looking for almost kind of boat now, how about a 10 ft. aluminum jon boat, since they are light an upright hoist would be very simple to make to work on your receiver hitch.

Some bike racks designed to be used with a receiver hitch with Herman's double receiver might be a better solution than a ladder.

If it must be mounted on the outside wall, why not nicely construct a shallow box made out of aluminum just deep enough to contain the tv mount, if mine I would want one that can be swiveled in many directions and be capable of adjustable angle up or down. The door can fold down or up whichever works best for you. Make the box out of heavy enough aluminum and make just a little taller than the mount and wide enough to cross two upright studs so that it can be screwed or riveted to those studs. You can either paint or vinyl coat to match the exterior of the coach. I mounted my exterior facing TV inside the coach facing out a window and use a sound-dock for exterior sound. Just a couple more ideas.

If anyone wants to install a good negative battery disconnect instead of pulling the battery cable, a switch like this one can be used. https://www.wirthco.com/battery-doctor/battery-disconnect-switches/commerical-heavy-duty-disconnect/emergency-push-button-switch I know this is not answer to OP's question, Joe has already answered that, only added this for information as a better idea. By the way, BarbHasenfus, welcome to the forum.

Why not go wireless from front to back? I did this for several years with no problems in my old coach. You can use uhf controls and no need for IR, or paying to replace wiring. And one other suggestion if a wire is necessary, if you have ducted roof air, the coax can be run inside the ductwork.

I believe the OP said that he had now replaced his original house batteries with gell cells, not AGM, which is good since the solar system batteries are also gel cell. Please make sure that the inverter/charger is programmed for gel cell batteries. These batteries will all be charged by whatever is charging them now, only difference is now that you will have the additional 200 watts of solar power to help maintain charge on the now 4 battery bank, + the ability to use that 200 watts in the presence of sunlight when no other outside source for charging them are present. What AH are the new gell cells that replaced the original flooded cell batteries and what AH for the new add ons?

Carl, may or may not be true, would depend on how the coach is sitting when it was parked. The leveling valves will consistently try to level the coach until all air is depleted in the absence of air not being added back to the system. If it is an automatic air leveling system, then it should level as nearly as possible and depending on the system may even be designed to lower the coach to the lowest level point before locking the air bag lock valves. Anyway I came back to the post realizing that I forgot to add (without adequate jack stands and blocking). Great that the OP plans to do his own maintenance, just be sure to do it safely. templeandgary, please be aware that there is really NO STUPID QUESTIONS, just ones that we don't know the answer to, and it would be more STUPID on our part if we didn't ask them, thanks to this forum and many more good ones, we are able to ask them.

Congratulations on the new coach. Is this new coach new to you, or new to the world? If new to the world, surely there is an owners manual to help explain the lowering within 10 minutes. Now for the most important stuff, NEVER EVER crawl under any vehicle that uses air bags as springs, coach, truck, or what ever without knowledge of whether you would fit under that vehicle if it were completely unaired and the bags lowered to their lowest point even if the vehicle is running and producing air, This rule should always apply even under a hydraulically lifted device or machine. One never knows that there may be a failure of the system, a sudden leak or puncture of the bags or even a fitting giving up could happen at any given moment. Hope you have many smiles and miles with the new coach.

Neater and longer lasting, I don't always use crimp ferrules but in an overheating or where the wire end gets a lot of pulling situation (in remote controls), they really work great.

Also check for manifold and exhaust leaks.

I don't know if you have roadside assistance or not. But a call to them may help with towing. I use AAA and am covered on the MH as well as the other cars in the family, I pay extra for that service, and have been towed from home due to circumstances similar to yours.

Good morning, after the above tests, I only have one more. With the ignition off and key removed, and shore power disconnected and generator off, please use the domestic kill switch and place in the off position. With the kill switch off in the off position check the voltage on those large terminals, both sides to ground. The chassis side should read 12+ volts and the house side should read 0 (not uncommon to see .354 or some other crazy low number). Please record the results and let us know. Next, start the engine and again check voltage on both terminals to chassis ground and let us know the results. When the kill switch was on, we should have been seeing about the numbers posted because both battery banks were incorporated, though it is uncommon to see two banks when disconnected from each other be exactly the same. The test that I am having you do now will tell if the relay is actually working or not. Don't forget to turn that domestic switch back on after the test and of course plug back shore power. Good luck.