kaypsmith

If it must be mounted on the outside wall, why not nicely construct a shallow box made out of aluminum just deep enough to contain the tv mount, if mine I would want one that can be swiveled in many directions and be capable of adjustable angle up or down. The door can fold down or up whichever works best for you. Make the box out of heavy enough aluminum and make just a little taller than the mount and wide enough to cross two upright studs so that it can be screwed or riveted to those studs. You can either paint or vinyl coat to match the exterior of the coach. I mounted my exterior facing TV inside the coach facing out a window and use a sound-dock for exterior sound. Just a couple more ideas.

If anyone wants to install a good negative battery disconnect instead of pulling the battery cable, a switch like this one can be used. https://www.wirthco.com/battery-doctor/battery-disconnect-switches/commerical-heavy-duty-disconnect/emergency-push-button-switch I know this is not answer to OP's question, Joe has already answered that, only added this for information as a better idea. By the way, BarbHasenfus, welcome to the forum.

Why not go wireless from front to back? I did this for several years with no problems in my old coach. You can use uhf controls and no need for IR, or paying to replace wiring. And one other suggestion if a wire is necessary, if you have ducted roof air, the coax can be run inside the ductwork.

I believe the OP said that he had now replaced his original house batteries with gell cells, not AGM, which is good since the solar system batteries are also gel cell. Please make sure that the inverter/charger is programmed for gel cell batteries. These batteries will all be charged by whatever is charging them now, only difference is now that you will have the additional 200 watts of solar power to help maintain charge on the now 4 battery bank, + the ability to use that 200 watts in the presence of sunlight when no other outside source for charging them are present. What AH are the new gell cells that replaced the original flooded cell batteries and what AH for the new add ons?

Carl, may or may not be true, would depend on how the coach is sitting when it was parked. The leveling valves will consistently try to level the coach until all air is depleted in the absence of air not being added back to the system. If it is an automatic air leveling system, then it should level as nearly as possible and depending on the system may even be designed to lower the coach to the lowest level point before locking the air bag lock valves. Anyway I came back to the post realizing that I forgot to add (without adequate jack stands and blocking). Great that the OP plans to do his own maintenance, just be sure to do it safely. templeandgary, please be aware that there is really NO STUPID QUESTIONS, just ones that we don't know the answer to, and it would be more STUPID on our part if we didn't ask them, thanks to this forum and many more good ones, we are able to ask them.

Congratulations on the new coach. Is this new coach new to you, or new to the world? If new to the world, surely there is an owners manual to help explain the lowering within 10 minutes. Now for the most important stuff, NEVER EVER crawl under any vehicle that uses air bags as springs, coach, truck, or what ever without knowledge of whether you would fit under that vehicle if it were completely unaired and the bags lowered to their lowest point even if the vehicle is running and producing air, This rule should always apply even under a hydraulically lifted device or machine. One never knows that there may be a failure of the system, a sudden leak or puncture of the bags or even a fitting giving up could happen at any given moment. Hope you have many smiles and miles with the new coach.

Neater and longer lasting, I don't always use crimp ferrules but in an overheating or where the wire end gets a lot of pulling situation (in remote controls), they really work great.

Also check for manifold and exhaust leaks.

I don't know if you have roadside assistance or not. But a call to them may help with towing. I use AAA and am covered on the MH as well as the other cars in the family, I pay extra for that service, and have been towed from home due to circumstances similar to yours.

Good morning, after the above tests, I only have one more. With the ignition off and key removed, and shore power disconnected and generator off, please use the domestic kill switch and place in the off position. With the kill switch off in the off position check the voltage on those large terminals, both sides to ground. The chassis side should read 12+ volts and the house side should read 0 (not uncommon to see .354 or some other crazy low number). Please record the results and let us know. Next, start the engine and again check voltage on both terminals to chassis ground and let us know the results. When the kill switch was on, we should have been seeing about the numbers posted because both battery banks were incorporated, though it is uncommon to see two banks when disconnected from each other be exactly the same. The test that I am having you do now will tell if the relay is actually working or not. Don't forget to turn that domestic switch back on after the test and of course plug back shore power. Good luck.

Yep, calling it a night here also, incidentally, that isolator relay should become unlatched with the ignition switch turned off. You should not see voltage on both large lugs with the ign off, if you do something is either shorted or somehow miswired. I'll check back in the AM. Rain is also predicted here, and I am going to pull my generator as soon as weather permits, it has a leaking radiator that occurred a couple weeks ago while vacationing in Florida.

Okay, now put the ground wire back on the LE415, and follow that ground wire over to other end, the wire is supposed to be connected to another relay, that relay is a time delay relay, unplug that wire and retest to see if the isolator drops voltage on one side. If it doesn't drop voltage then next go to the relay marked battery isolator lockout, and unplug the white wire terminal, being sure to mark and remember which spade that it goes back to and retest and let us know the results. Great work on your part, thanks for keeping up.

Thanks Jim, I saw your post and did investigate, as stated not cheap but could be helpful for those who have the ability to pay and need that service. Happy trails, Kay!

Yes, the isolator relay is not unlatching now causing the voltage to carry over to the alternator (not good). Now, remove the ground wire from the LE415 and perform the same test and let us know the results. Forgot to say why not good, because the isolation circuit is not unlatching will cause your chassis batteries to discharge while not running if demand exceeds the inverter ability to keep up, or no shore or generator power.

Floyd, please remember that the green LE415 is not the isolator, it's a battery maintainer. The isolator on your coach is the big relay which is also your battery combiner, it's a dual purpose relay used to combine battery banks both when you push the button and also when the coach is running and the alternator is producing current. When alternator current is not present, the relay should remain open, while coach is running, it should close, this is how the alternator is able to charge the house batteries. To test while running, both large terminals to chassis ground you should see 12+ volts, when not running, only one side will be hot if all is correct.

I have also been successful with confectioners sugar mixed with plaster of paris equally, then place a soda cap with water in it, works pretty well on most ants and roaches. This remedy locks up their digestive system.

It's only a maintainer designed to keep the battery charged that is not receiving a charge from either the alternator or inverter, if charge is not happening on either then it will not try to charge . If you notice in the original picture there are three small boxes side by side, the one in the middle is marked isolator lockout, the one to the right is not marked, but your schematic signifies that it is a slide lockout. Both of these are connected to the LE415 through a ground bus bar, the ground bus bar is activated by the negative terminal on the maintainer, it appears that the ground bus bar is isolated from chassis ground unless it sees ground from the maintainer. In turn, the large relay, the one with two large wires and two small wires is not receiving ground (small wire on left is normally positive) while a relay depends on both ground (small wire on right) to be activated at the same time otherwise it will not close. The closing of this relay is what causes both chassis and house batteries to combine to maintain charge when the alternator is producing current. If you notice on your schematic someone has penciled in that this same relay is also your auxiliary battery combiner (the switch inside) which actually overrides the lockout system. The lockout goes directly to a delay relay that actuates the large relay by means of signaling the ground ( - ) side of that relay. Hope this helps. Rich emailed me earlier to tell you that he has gone to doctor today and asked me to try to help with your problem while he is away.

The green thing is the same as a Bird relay, you need to be looking at what makes the relay activate for now.

Floyd, here is some very important reading for you in trouble shooting your situation. https://www.dixie-electric.com/tsb/TSB_704.pdf Your system incorporates a Duvac (dual voltage acceptance controller), this pdf covers trouble shooting very well.

Just a word about todays wiring versus that of many years ago. The vinyl jacket (insulation) on todays wire is made largely from soybeans, rodents love it and are attracted to the smell and flavor. My wife's new KIA a few years ago was attacked by squirrels that ate the insulation causing similar damage. I was instructed by the KIA dealer to tie a ladies hose end filled with a few moth balls under the hood, I did this and have had no further problems since.

Okay, done more checking, the green thing called a battery maintainer, is actually a Lambert LE415, 15 amp battery charger, instead of 120 volt ac in, it uses 12 volt dc in and a sophisticated diode circuit inside and is supposed to maintain 12 volts on either side at the rate of 15 amps. If green light is on, it is supposed to be working properly, green light off not.

Original finish may be lacquer, a test of acetone or lacquer thinner can be used in a very small area on the inside of a door will tell the tail, if poly, the finish will curl, if lacquer, it will only moisten the finish.

Same system that I worked on last fall, the green box supplies the voltage to the relay in the picture to close the relay when it sees current from the alternator. The wire that triggers it is within the wiring harness attached to the alternator not the main output of the alternator. The relay in the picture is also triggered by the aux power in the coach to combine the chassis and coach house batteries. If you push the combiner switch on the inside, then the switch activates, then the relay is ok, need to start checking the green diode box, if that is ok, the three square relays that shows battery isolation in the middle need to be tested, if all three of these are good then the wire on top needs to be traced all the way to the alternator. Pretty simple system but a little complicated as to how it works.

Hope the OP has gotten the unit operable by Now!

I believe this system is an isolator lockout system, it uses a diode based unit and transistors that actually engages the relay in the picture to engage the charging circuit from the coach alternator when it sees current from the coach alternator, if current is present, this will engage the relay to allow charging while coach is charging. I would start with the relay to make sure that it is functioning, if so, then the next place is the chassis wire to the alternator, if no 12 V there while the coach is running, either broken wire or bad connection to the alternator, if not that that, then the circuitry within the alternator. The three black boxes to the left of the green box is either transistors, or relays, all three work in conjunction with each other to cause the the circuit to work. Hope this helps.