kaypsmith

What, if anything caused the brakes to release? Or were you just lucky? If you haven't purged those air tanks lately, be sure that happens soon, water builds pretty rapidly in hot humid weather. Glad you are back to moving again.

How many actual miles on the coach? Have you called MCI technical support (800-241-2947)? I have called them on several occasions and always got good service and answers. I am in the same camp with others about the drive shaft being a possibility, it is very short and not very forgiving. One other suggestion that cost no more than fuel, try dropping the air in the trail axel and see if the vibration changes to a different speed. One other person to call for advice is John Cherry at Evolution coach, located in White Haven Pa. Nearest MCI service center to you is Dallas Tx.

Here is an excerpt that I just ran across containing fact about a company claim promoting their fuel additive. I find it a little disturbing that our government will allow bio additives to our fuel without a warning to the public in any amount. Here is the excerpt, thanks for looking and commenting. Bell's Family of Treatments for Biodiesel Be Good To Your Biodiesel Fuel & It Will Be Good To You A lot of diesel fuel today contains up to 5% biodiesel content without even being labelled. And biodiesel users know the extra problems biodiesel has over and above regular diesel. Please note that this not an endorsement for any brand, it was only used to point out my concern, and I am not against bio fuel, I just think it unfair to the public if products are not labeled correctly.

The air brake canisters on the drive axel require air pressure to push against the spring contained within, this is what releases the parking brake. The fact that you are dropping air pressure to me would indicate that there is an air leak that is pretty large. If you can get close to the drive axel, not under the coach and clear of it's path in case of the parking brake releases, have someone in the driver seat, one that is competent enough to stop the coach just in case the parking brake does release, activate the PB release button, you should hear a rush of air to those canisters. If you do not hear that air rush and the pressure drops quickly as indicated, then you will need to find that leak, or possibly a bad actuator valve in the cockpit. At least that is where I would start to look for where is the air is going instead of to the DA brake canisters. You will find that once the air has depleted below the necessary pressure to work those canisters, the air will cease to try to go back there, therefore you will need some assistance in keeping up the air pressure to look for that leak, and this is in the event that you do not have an external source of air supply to keep that pressure high enough to hunt the leak. Good luck hunting! I should have added earlier, when was the last time you purged your air tanks?

Joe, that smoked brisket was delicious, wish you could visit more often.

Great looking modification, keep up the good work.

The best way from my standpoint is to always use good water both in the coach and in the fresh water tank. If the water is good at a campground, pump as much water as possible from the fresh water tank then refill it with fresh water before leaving for the next leg of your journey. And for those of us who are not full-timers, use the same method at home, and replenish the water tank often, this way there should not be a need to sanitize your system too often. If cold water starts smelling musty, clean those filter screens with vinegar and wipe back into the faucet with a rolled towel dipped in vinegar, that's where most of that musty smell and tastes comes from anyway, and don't forget about the hose that you connect to the CG or home faucets, a tablespoon, that's one ounce of chlorine bleach and about a quart of water in the hose, then coiled up and the ends connected together before storing will help keep the hose smelling fresh. If you just bought a coach and want to just make sure about it, the test is the best way to start out to decide if sanitization is in fact in order.

This topic reminds me of a very old painful experience that I had about 58 years ago. I drove a truck, Ford F600 gasoline rig for a glazing company, they glazed bakery pans with silicone glaze to keep bread from sticking to the pans. We of course serviced bakeries and there was competition back then. I was returning from a bakery that was 200 miles away with a load of dirty pans to be reglazed and about 100 miles from home base, the truck became ill. I replaced the fuel filter and found funny looking rubber in the filter and lines, cranked the truck and drove about 10 miles and it sputtered to a stop again, checked the fuel lines and they were plugged again. Had to tow the truck the rest of the way back to home base. What had happened was a competitor removed the gas cap and dropped a golf ball into the tank, the gas dissolved the ball and the core of the ball is comprised of a ball that looks like a very long rubber band, this in turn clogged the fuel lines with rubber band type material. We had to replace the entire fuel line from the tank to the filter and steam clean the tank. Sorry for the long recitation, bet as stated, old memories came back to play. Hope that the school bus isn't as big a mess as I had back then, and will not be quite as big a problem to clean up.

Joe, the way DD described is the best way, use the 15 gallons with 1 pint, flush the system, then finish filling with fresh water. I usually try to deplete as much of the 15 as possible before filling the tank.

Be sure to check pricing of new AC's on ebay for new AC's, it appears that you are pretty handy and roof AC's are not that hard to replace. Getting them to the roof is hardest part and you could easily hoist it up under that new RV shelter. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=rv+air+coditioner&_sacat=0

My next test would to unplug the washer and dryer and test the breakers in off and on positions. Something is going awry in either washer or dryer if the EMS shows normal, if not, then disconnect wire from the breakers and test, if problem still there, then replace the breakers.

Being the curious type, I would saw open the spin on type filter just to see how clogged that it is. I second Joe's suggestion to try find evidence of their age.

Here is a paste that can be used on the dipstick to see if any hydrocarbons show up on the stick, as mentioned above the oil may be so clear that it doesn't appear visible. I doubt that it will work if you use synthetic, but should work fine on any petroleum based oil. KK003 --> Kolor Kut® Gauge Pole Indicator Paste, Fuel Paste You could use piece of wire that is stiff enough to push down the dipstick tube, don't try to over push, just till it stops, then pull back out to see if any oil is on the stick. I have seen a time when a dipstick tube had come loose and was no longer in the oil pan and that could be a reason for the dipstick not showing correctly. It would require someone crawling under to verify if this could possibly be the case. Over the years I have found many possibilities for explaining the unexplained.

I just went through this same problem earlier this summer, mine had a pinhole in the radiator that got progressively worse, so be sure to keep a close eye on the coolant.

Do you have a voltage meter for AC, Generac has also a safety feature that looks at the output voltage of their generators, if voltage goes outside of normal operating range, normally 108 to 130 volts, the unit will auto shutdown.

I believe that is truly air over hydraulic, be sure to look on the drive shaft for a drum, and if it is there and air activated, there will be a spring that engages when you set the brake, be sure to check for that grease buildup that I mentioned inside the drum.

25 watts is about 2 amps @ 12 volts and with solar in direct sun you could count on about 3/4 amp per hour. I would go with the 4 25 watt unit if it were me, just in case you want to visit occasionally and use the lights. As Herman said, disconnecting the batteries is another choice since it is house batteries.

I live close to Birmingham Alabama, I have a Carrier Air V that I pulled off the roof last spring, it is non ducted but only difference in the units is the inside cover contains controls, your controls will work with it. The fan assembly is broken and I was unable to find a replacement fan. The rest of the unit works and cools great. Free for the asking if you find someone that can make the change. I have not checked shipping price yet to Sunset Tx., but can or if there is someone coming close that can take it to you. This unit as I said works great, but the fan motor locks because of imbalance due to cracked fans.

Have you contacted Generac support, my last MH with a Generac generator, I used them several times and found pretty good support. 24/7/365 CUSTOMER SUPPORTUnited States & Canada: 888-GENERAC (888-436-3722)

You need to let us know if there is anything that will be draining the batteries while in storage, such as a monitoring system, burglar alarm system, or even a possible light turned on and off occasionally, and how many amps or watts do they pull, in order to get a good answer to the question. If you use a battery disconnect while in storage, a small system could work ok, but if no disconnect system is used and there is any drain, that needs to be taken into consideration for sizing.

This is great news I hope, another name brand with a much smaller price tag than Honda. I hope that they perform and lasts as well as Honda.

Yes as I stated, this does look like a crazy question, but the engineer trade in me makes me ask stupid looking questions to other people. The color BLACK is the only color in the world that is naturally ultra violet proof, all other colors need an additive to prevent ultra violet damage from the sun. This is why you never see any other color on an electric company's outdoor lines. Now if you are on the sea, all outdoor wires are white, that's because the salt spray damages black first and white last, salt and ultra violet together have the same effect as chlorine.

One more crazy question from me, do you have a brake treadle (one that looks similar to the accelerator), or a brake pedal that looks similar to an automobile? That type actuator does look like a standard air brake, and if this is the case, Richard is correct, the drive axel brakes need to inspected because they probably are spring loaded, which means that there is no adjustment. I have been searching the internet and it does look as though your brakes are air over hydraulic, and Brett is probably correct that the emergency brake is located on the drive shaft. If this is correct, there will be a drum mounted on the drive shaft with drum brake shoes. If this style, there will be a slack adjuster behind the plate behind the drum with an air piston that actually works the parking brake, biggest problem with this style park brake is that only one wheel actually locks because of the way a differential works, also if this is a diesel pusher with this style park brake, there is a high probability of grease buildup within the assembly causing slippage, brake shoes rarely wear out on this style but if grease is the problem, then a thorough cleaning of the assembly and new shoes should be used. Sorry I did not see this earlier because it appears within the quote. If the brakes are disc both front and rear, no that is not the case but most likely just as I described above referring to Brett's quote. Only other scenario is that there may be small brake shoes incorporated within a small drum that is made onto the rear wheel rotors, in which a cable may have been used, and I highly doubt this is your style as I have never seen this style used on anything larger than a 3/4 ton pickup. And yes, disc brakes are always self adjusting, and it is illegal to incorporate an emergency brake system into disc style brake, they must be able to be actuated either by hand or foot, and separate from the normal braking system.

Clarksgocamping, how do you apply the emergency brake on your unit, lever, foot pedal, or some sort of switch, or release valve? This info can help us identify what type emergency brake system that you have, just in case you do not find help otherwise.

What model is the Carrier AC? Is it ducted or non ducted?