kaypsmith

They are not wired the same as the 6 volt batteries, just follow Brett's instructions, all negative to negative, and all positive to positive, with positive to inverter/charger/ house supply to battery 1, and negative to inverter/charger/ house supply to battery 4.

Try giving these people a call, http://centralfloridafleetservice.com/ Detroit series 60 is a very popular engine and many truckers use them, I rely on W.W. Williams, but did not find one in your area.

In case you do not have the Kenwood manual, here is a link. http://manual.kenwood.com/files/B64-2134-00.pdf

This is my feeling also, I only added the other in case someone has done some funny wiring, that clumsy mess of wiring surely was not done in a factory, if it was their electrician should have been fired. All breaker boxes and the generator in an RV is supposed to be treated just like a sub-panel in a commercial or wired home, only the ground and neutral are only supposed to be bonded at the campground breaker instead of the main panel within an ordinary structure. The junction box pictured appears to be the junction between the generator and ATS, the OP is probably correct about a possible short occurring in this location.

Looking at the photo of the breaker box, I notice that there are four square D breakers, 1 fifty amp (don't know if that is a 50 amp 240volt, or 50 amp 120 volt which is rare to see a 120 volt), which is probably the main breaker for that box, if it is 120 volt it is not the feed for the box, 2 20 amp, then a dual 15 not with square d logo, then another 15 with square d logo. The dual one looks to have been added at a later time, it probably was changed out with a single handle square d breaker at the time that it was put into the box. Since you have owned the coach, have you added an appliance that required another 15 amp circuit? Also do you know what that dual breaker is feeding within the confines of the coach? You may or may not be aware that the dual handle breaker feeds 15 amps for a total of thirty amps off of just one leg of a 120 volt circuit, which means that one leg is capable of pulling 35 amps, while the other is capable of pulling 50 amps off of the other leg. So if there has been some added on then that might explain why a sudden change in the way things are happening. Just something else to think about when pondering what has happened.

If all connections are good and tight, it still seems as though there is a problem with the ATS (automatic transfer switch), you may have had a problem that has caused the ATS's to go bad, or just coincidence. Is it possible to wire around the ATS with shore power to see what happens without it?

Be sure to check the model # of your unit, according to the pdf supplied by Rich, there were only 2 models listed that uses two 30 amp breakers, but there is four listed that uses one 30 amp and one 20 amp. As stated above, you may be pulling too much load for one of the breakers and or the generator itself. There is no comparison of this generator to 50 amp shore power. Please let us know which model # yours is.

Did the OP indicate whether the breaker was in 12V or 120V panel?

If you unplug the 12v feed wire from the igniter, does it still trip the breaker?

If the regular charger will not reach 16.2 volts and that is what it takes then just your regular charger will not work. What I am suggesting is that you can input from any source that will produce that amount or slightly more directly into the solar controller to take care of equalization. I have a 24 volt charger since the coach is 24 volts and that could take the place of solar panels in the absence of sunlight. You stated that your solar controller has the capability of equalization.

If you want to go to the trouble, you could actually put your regular charger instead of the solar panels as long as you do not overcurrent the solar charge controller, allowing equalization at any given time, even at night. FWIW!

GCWR is the needed stat (gross combined weight rating), yours is rated 42,000. GVWR is maximum (gross vehicle weight rating), again yours is listed at 32,000. And of course as Richard stated yours list 10,000 GVW, and 1,000 hitch weight. So assuming that the coach is not overloaded (32,000), then 10,000# for this coach. Also be sure to check the hitch itself for numbers because sometimes a previous owner may have fitted with an inadequate hitch.

It only takes one loose screw, and it doesn't have to be too loose, great news that you took on the project yourself and was probably successful. By the way, that screw probably was not loose when it left the factory, especially since it occurred a good while after leaving. As I stated earlier, heating and cooling of electrical components actually cause these things to happen, a good idea to check at least yearly, I do it every six months.

Where is the dump valve located on your coach????? If yours works like this one, http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=161744710017&category=184905&pm=1&ds=0&t=1537541336000&ver=0, you can simply plumb around it. You just won't have a rapid dump system on that axel.

I looked up your system, and it seems as though your model uses a dual purpose ride height/ air dump type valve, and in that case, just plugging the valve would not be a good idea, it could although be replaced with a simple ride height valve which may be easier to locate locally. If you plug your style there will be no way to raise the coach for moving purposes. If you do replace the ride height valve, be sure to follow Richards advice because when the valve is disconnected the sudden release of air will cause the coach to fall rapidly which may cause injury or death. If you need to move the coach before replacement, then if it only has a slight leak, you may want to rev the engine a little bit allowing the increased air flow from the pump to try to overcome the leak. Last year, I had a similar situation, only the air bag itself was the leaker, I drove the coach back home (308 miles) with that leak, only had to shift transmission to neutral and rev the engine slightly while stopped for traffic lights, while traveling at normal speeds, the pump kept up just fine. Some coaches use a single dump valve that is located either inside a bay, or sometimes in the engine bay, these type lets the air release from the air spring system without crawling under the coach.

Amen, and electronics have been my livelihood for the past 34+ years. They are great once all the bugs have been worked out.

What coach do you have? Where is the dump valve located? We are only guessing at this point, so very hard to give good answers. I suppose that you need to move the coach before the valve and mechanic arrive.

Typically I would expect pretty much the same as the coolant temperature. Some but not all cool through the radiator, but cooling is not the only reason, you want the transmission temperature to rise to operating temperature as quickly as possible so that it will work correctly.

Nice work Richard! Those switching relays do work well, nice thing is, you can use as many momentary switches as you may like to control them. This is the same system that is used in many industrial installations for emergency shutoff purposes.

Glad to hear that you are calling upon a qualified electrician. The generator test can now put to rest the power company, and shore power plug and cord. I would start at the ATS now and go forward into the wiring in the breaker panel. So far, have all the brownouts been on the L2 circuit as indicated above? If so that will indicate a probable 240 volt circuit breaker going bad if there is one, if no double handle (that will have two handles locked together), then you will have two separate single handle breakers, probable 50 amps each, I have found sometimes that these guys will have burnt looking contacts where they clamp to the bus bar, this situation will cause brownouts because it is not able to carry sufficient current, I added this suggestion for passing along to the electrician. Hope that you are getting closer to a solution. I did forget to mention also that a contact may be failing in the ATS, but since brownouts still occurred on the generator, it is less likely because a different set of contacts are used while on generator than on shore power, but the neutral is still common on generator and shore power at the ATS. One more thing for an electrician to do is to be sure and tighten the lugs within each breaker, any one can be loose, as well as being certain that the one feeding the monitor system making good contact.

I wonder to what extent the brownout is, does your Precision circuit monitor tell that? A brownout is a form of the power going low, it can show up as voltage should be between 110 and 125 volts, or simply the amperage is too low, not carrying enough amperage for a short period. These conditions rarely will cause a breaker to trip, but will show up as an AC (alternating current) light bulb not being as bright as normal. Several things can contribute to this happening including the power company having issues to a something as simple as a neutral within the coach not being tight enough within a circuit panel, or even a lug not being tight within the ATS (auto transfer switch), or even a faulty transfer switch not holding a good latched condition. Since this is happening on both line 1 and 2, my first concern would be a loose ground within the coach somewhere. Have you tried running the generator for 8 or more hours to see if the brownouts occur during that period of time? And of course there may be a problem with your monitoring system. Over the years I have used an analog monitoring system that uses a paper tape with a sweep pen that records the date and time and actually shows the voltage on both circuits at any given time. Of course newer technology uses digital components and records these happenings over a period of time. Hope you find the culprit soon, and remember that the inside coach lights are 12 volt DC, not 120 AC, so to watch for brownouts, use an old fashioned 60 watt incandescent bulb in a lamp base plugged into an AC outlet within the coach. Hope this brief post will help in understanding what a brownout is.

We could tell how happy a motorcyclerider was by counting the bugs on their teeth!

The branded name is Premium, the condenser is actually Toshiba, a trusted name in the mini-split market. I ordered off of ebay for $489.00 with free shipping, when I ordered 15 foot supply lines which worked great, the condenser is pre charged and was slightly overfilled. I did the uninstall of the old system and the installation of the new. I did call a local hvac dealer and paid them $150.00 to come out to evacuate the evaporator and lines and release the refrigerant from the condenser and levelized the refrigerant. The unit is also a heatpump which works very well here in the south because it does heat very well if outside temp is 40% or more.

295 is 20 mm wider than 275, about 3/4 inches, the second number is in percentage to width, so 75% of 295mm width versus 80% of 275mm which pretty much equals out in circumference and or diameter. Dual spacing will a little less and should taken into consideration.

No problem with venting, it is the old AC bay, the entire door is stainless steel mesh just like when it was new, the old 24 volt fan pulled air through the condenser coil which was mounted on the door, then blew downwards on the pavement below. The fan was an 18 inch standard fan. I mounted the unit 9 inches from the back wall allowing the new unit to be able to pull through that hole in the floor as well as having at least 10 inches clearance on either side if the unit and another 9 inches clearance across the top. The condenser fan blows the hot air far enough past the coach to keep the hot air from being inhaled back through the unit. Notice the white PVC pipe to the left of the condenser, that is the evaporator drain, I used a 3/4" hose bibb style fitting directly below the floor of the bay, allowing me to attach a regular water hose while parked to carry the drain-off almost anywhere downhill away from the campsite. If you recall, there was a post awhile back trying to figure a way to take the run-off away, that's where I got the idea to make use of this idea, LOL. I wanted to use mini-splits when I first converted, but no vender would sell me the units back then for fear that there may be leaks because of vibration going down the road. I used flare seals to help prevent this from happening, and there have several others that used this system and have logged upwards of 50K on at least two of those. So here I am, another guinea pig, and as I stated in the first post, I wanted to test some before announcing this project. Also as stated this unit is an energy sipper, startup draws 6.9 amps, with the unit blowing maximum in 94% outside, 4.2 amps, and at idle in early morning, outside temp 79%, just under 1 amp. With inverter technology, the condenser never turns off, it simply slows down, then as the thermostat calls for more cooling, the unit speeds up at a slow pace all the way to wide open which in turn stops the need for pulling a large load starting the unit at any given moment, by the way, I still use an old modified wave inverter 3K, and it runs fine on that, meaning I can actually cool while driving without running the generator. One other note, I was prepared to add a baffle/diverter on the mesh door to divert air flow, but the mesh is already designed for that purpose and with test results already in, I don't believe that will become necessary.