kaypsmith

Actually spin welding seems to be most recommended on both ABS and Polyethylene. Here is youtube video. Great job craigc51, hope it lasts as long as you want it to.

Most factory tanks are ABS, not poly. To test which it is, PVC glue, is a solvent which actually chemically welds PVC pipe together, so place a small piece of PVC pipe on the side of the tank using PVC glue, hold in place 10 seconds, if the pipe stays then your tank is poly. ABS is heat weldable and a similar test using ABS pipe and ABS glue. Of course you must clean either thoroughly for adequate results. If it is ABS then the heat process will work well, if poly, then the pvc glue will probably be enough to seal and hold for a long while.

Joe, here is what I recommend, in your case. Polishing Compound Polishing compound is a substance that is mildly abrasive. It is used to remove contaminants from the paint and will also smooth the paint by removing a small amount of paint. Polishing compound will remove light scratches in the finish of an automobile. Rubbing Compound Rubbing compound works in a similar manner to polishing compound, but is more abrasive. This means that the rubbing compound will remove more paint and is used for smoothing out larger scratches and other significant damage to the vehicle's painted surface. Tips for Use As polishing compound is less abrasive, it should be used first to correct problems with a vehicle's finish. If the polishing compound does not provide a satisfactory result, the more abrasive rubbing compound can then be used. Polishing compound may be needed after the use of rubbing compound to smooth out the paint. In your case I would use a lambs wool bonnet on a medium speed buffer first, if not adequate, then a sailcloth bonnet with the green rubbing compound, I buy it dry use a mortar and petal to crush then a few drops of kerosene to form a paste, when this process is complete then I go to white compound in the same manner. Kerosene, not diesel fuel, diesel will discolor, kerosene will not. By the way the same treatment on granite or marble works well for a lasting shine.

When working with Corian, for really bad jobs (Joe's are not that bad), I used a straight line air file with wet sandpaper, no swirls. I built cabinets as a trade for over 12 years and bought and resold Corian during that time. A DA (dual action) tool works well on random curves.

Joe, if your countertops are true Corian, rubbing compound, same as used on metal. To make sure, try a very small area that is normally covered. True Corian has the color all the way through the product and shines nicely with the above action, scratches can be sanded out then brought to a shine, of course use very fine paper if needed. Rejuvenate is only a coverup wax/finish product that will dull again in a short while.

Do you have yellow turn signals on the rear of the coach and on the CRV?

If this valve is used for lifting purposes only, then capping should not be a problem, if it is a leveling valve, it does need to be repaired. If the unit will only build to 90 psi it must be a teriffic leak. I have found many fittings at Lowes, just look at the copper 1/4 inch caps and couplings, they come with a brass sleeve to put inside plastic tube so that the ferrule will tighten and hold pressure.

Welcome to the forum! Is this a leveling valve? If so, I have taken leveling valves to a local truck parts counter with the valve in hand and had very good luck finding a replacement, many styles available so best to take the valve with you, or snap several pictures and record the size and style of the arm.

Just for info in addition to the vent requirement, DOT says that it must be in a non lockable compartment if carried inside.

Agree with Brett, probably a combination of dirty prongs on your end and also dirty inside the CG outlet. Best to always turn off the CG breaker before plugging or unplugging both surge protector and the coach cord, this will help lesson the dirty (heat caused corrosion) on your plugs as well as the CG outlet. The black look on the brass is caused from heating and cooling of those plugs. Part of my semi annual projects is to clean my plugs then smear on then wipe off No-lox on all of these plugs, this also helps make plugging and unplugging a little easier.

With a very low flow situation anyway in warmer weather, a black hosepipe can be laid out in the sunlight, attached to the hot water heater input, pump cold tank water to the hose and then the inverter will not use as much 12V for warming the water. I use a 100 foot hose for this purpose, just leave the hose coiled up, no need to uncoil.

Many coaches have a circuit breaker very close to the house battery bank or a fuse circuit. If the salesman switch is not the issue, start at the battery bank with a VOM, checking each terminal downstream from the battery bank against a chassis ground for 12 +V, first failure will be the culprit in most cases.

Just want to add a note here concerning battery amps versus AC amperage and trying to figure the amp draw on the DC side. While inverting DC to AC an inverter has a built in overhead for making the inversion. The most streamlined inverter that I have tested used 10% overhead, while the worst tested used 35%, which means that while calculating the amperage being pulled from the batteries, you must add the overhead to the DC draw to be accurate in your calculations. So glad that the OP has resolved your mystery.

Welcome to FMCA and thanks for the great pictures.

Great news and glad that it is working to your liking now. A simple fix would be to program the ECM to delay the start cycle (maybe), or at least send out a bulletin letting others know what to do until a permanent fix is available.

See if this helps! https://www.manta.com/c/mmdfxyg/lexington-corporation

See if this helps! https://www.manta.com/c/mmdfxyg/lexington-corporation

I completely built my coach with purchases on ebay, was very happy with the results and shipping was never a problem because I used a commercial shipping address, Worth looking at! https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=rv+furniture&_sacat=0&_pgn=1

Here is some good reading about the Montana LLC, that most people trying to avoid state taxes need to read. https://rvtailgatelife.com/2019/montana-llc-registering-rv Not exactly on topic but worth sharing since the subject has come up. Oh yes, I agree with Joe and his assessment. In Alabama, even a passenger car owned by a corporation "Limited Liability Corporation"must display an "X tag", this the CMV designation on the tag. A private vehicle over 26,001# must be driven by a CDL driver unless an Alabama registered RV or used as a Farm to market carrier.

Most air brake vehicles that I have owned in the past and present uses an air activated brake light switch not a pedal switch. My current coach brake light switch is activated anytime the parking brake is applied as well, this very handy while checking the brake lights on the coach and the toad. Also there is a brake light that illuminates on the dash when the brake lights are on.

Welcome to the forum. And a diesel cummings/cat engine the age that you are asking about in most cases is a good choice. 100,000 miles is miniscule IF the previous owners were good tenders of their equipment, meaning oil changes, proper coolant care was taken and several other things come to mind. An oil and coolant analysis would be my recommend to determine how well the engine was maintained, and driving the rig to check the shifting of the transmission. While test driving be sure to test from a stopped position, a nice drive down an interstate at normal speeds, and be sure to find some hills to climb. Pretty much a standard routine drive test. Also almost forgot to include a transmission fluid analysis, this will help a potential for a tranny problem. Good luck hunting.

Is this your system? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/255713/Firestone-Intelli-Ride-2230.html#manual Here is another link that I just found that might be helpful. https://www.driveriteair.com/catalog/product/Monaco-318

Just thought of a similar situation that I had with my system several years ago, worth checking on your end. You said that you checked the ride height valves and tried them by hand, nothing happened in any direction. If the front is up, if you try to lower the front end, it should go down if it doesn't then the relief port on the check valve may be stopped up. That happened on my coach a few years back, I removed the check valve and checked, a mud dauber had built a mud nest in the exhaust port, a little WD40 sprayed into the port and a tooth pick was able to remove that nest. My leveling system was confused because of this and the bus would not level because of the excessive air in the front bags. Not likely your problem but one more thing to look at. If needing to move your rig, you can use a makeshift manifold to overcome the Firestone system. The solenoid on the far right appears to be the intake for your leveling system, the gauge on the left is showing pressure, appears to be about 45, about the right pressure to lift most any coach. If you remove the two yellow hoses and use an inline sleeve between the two, I would be willing to bet your back bags will air up. Those other three are probably no more than air releases for your system attached to the intelligent leveling system and for lowering the coach.

No not normal if receiving air, but I suspect that there is no air going to those valves, if already at the bottom, then there will be no drop. Your system looks like there three electrically activated air control valves (solenoid type), has anyone tested to see if they are receiving current to cause activation? If they have current, then suspect that the two going to rear of coach are bad. If no (12) volts try touching a 12 volt lead to each one to see if anything happen. But first try using a temporary ground to these solenoids, maybe that the ground is too badly corroded or a broken wire somewhere.

I'm not familiar with the Firestone intelerride system. But most air ride systems have ride height valves which are manual valves, not manual so that you adjust them but most of them use a simple control arm with an adjustable link. I have seen many of these links break or just get out of adjustment. Most coaches have one on the front and one for each rear tires including one for each tag (trail) axel. And as rich pointed out in his post if any or all are not working properly will cause the air pressure to drop more rapidly than usual. Most truck or bus/rv shops could disable the Firestone system and go to a manual system if the system is non repairable, or if you are handy you could do the swap out. The ride height valves will be near each rear air bag with a short hose coupling to the bag if you have any, the front is usually only one in the center of the front axel.