kaypsmith

If the switch is not the problem, start looking for a fuse in the 12 volt system, normally found in the coach battery compartment, some of can be confused with a relay because some are circuit breakers and resemble relays.

I run 12R 22.5. Of course I will be replacing 315 80 next time around. If new to Window10, you can find IE 11 under programs, or simply type ie11 under search, I still like it better than Edge for the forum, also remember search is your only friend with Win10, LOL. It actually gets better with all the updates, and age.

I like FMCA, go here as often as possible because of the friendly atmosphere. If I don't find an answer to a problem that I might have here, then I use Google. Been on other snobby site, and didn't care to go back.

Yes it can be repaired, I would opt for an inside patch, no plug. You may be lucky and have a real short screw that did not penetrate the air chamber, for safety sake, make sure that whomever removes it is prepared to fix it before removing it.

Rich has very good points. But for answering your question about settings, I would go for half load, then test.

Glad you found the problem, but at your earliest convenience, I would move that fridge out of the way and replace those too long for the correct size if for nothing else, safety sake. I notice that a poster had commented on replacing the 15 amp gfi for a 20 amp or 25 amp, gfi does not look for amperage, only difference of load between hot and neutral, anything over 4 milliamps will trip gfi, not amperage, if over amperage the circuit breaker at the breaker box will trip not the gfi. And as stated by yourself, when in doubt, check it out, never take electricity for granted.

The surge hydraulic brakes on Acme and several including U-Haul work great, and I would not cheap out, your 35 footer in all probability will not stop any shorter than a 40 or 40+ footer either. The braking systems are installed on a MH proportionately to their size, so assuming that shorter is better for a MH is not a good assumption. Also maintenance of brakes will not break the bank for anyone that can afford a MH.

The isolater is a diode inside the combiner. The combiner is a sealed unit, ususally black rubber looking, and as described above several wires in and several out. The primary purpose is to combine the turn signal on the coach with the appropriate brake light on the trailer, if your trailer harness plug has more than four wires, there will not be one on your coach.

Good point, and this would my first suspect.

On the floor below the picture! Seriously, air box cover.

Very true! It would be hard to make a set of contacts that will withstand that sudden transfer under load.

What Bill is speaking of is 96% labor, and with an assembly line, slowing down production is very costly. Tinning and swaging all ends would be great, and Loctite on all screws would help. Airplane standards with airplane quality controls would be wonderful, but until that happens, we must all take the little amount of time to be diligent and keep our machinery safe. In most cases, finding the tools to add 1/4 turn on those screws will take longer than actually doing the maintenance. If NASA ever gets involved, those three hundred thousand coaches will actually cost $500,000.00 and no feel good discounts.

Our old two stroke Detroits still need to use standard weight, 30 or 40. I was told by a modern day mechanic that 15/40 would work just fine, so I moved to 15/40 on the next oil change, what a mistake, oil leaks were so bad that I was adding a gallon every 500 miles, the spots became puddles, so I went back to straight 30 in winter 40 in summer. I was not allowed to hang a picture of the bus on the wall while using multi viscosity, DW was mopping the floor too often.

I am not taking up for IOTA or any other company. But as stated loose connections can cause a lot of problems, overheating is of course one of those. A 50 amp transfer switch is a prime target for problems. The transfer switch uses contacts to transfer power from either generator or shore power. When you see burnt contacts, that is a sign of a faulty contact switch, which can be caused from taking too long to engage, thus burning the contacts over a period of time, or can be misaligned contacts, which in turn are not using all of the surface area, which allows the same condition as not using large enough gauge wire, which in turn causes premature burnout. In your picture, notice the apparent burnout happened on the center set of conductors. Of course we can not see the contacts in the picture, but if that is where the burnout happened, the burned marks would be most likely under those wires instead of on the wires. I also pointed out that most RV wiring is usually multi strand, this is good for the RV industry because the wire is designed to survive those jolts that we can not avoid, but the downside is that it does need to be retightened every once in a while. Most stick and brick homes are stationary and that is why single strand on most smaller gauge romex, as well as the more qualified electricians will always dip the wire in no-lox or similar conductive grease, while those wires that are being installed. Inside conduit is multi strand, it is much larger gauge per strand and will survive longer than what is used in RV's. I have for many years still retorque my house wires about every three years inside the breaker boxes, and renew receptacles and switches every ten years in my home and offices because heating and cooling of electrical conductors happens every time it is called upon for use, this action alone over time will cause poor connections at every junction. No your problem may not be from poor connections, but the periodic maintenance that I am talking about will help in longevity of the electric systems in any circumstance.

An analytical mind never slows down, they just become more analytical!

The failure appears to be the neutral wire, that arched, another example of a loose connection, in my HO. Please retighten those lugs on a regular basis! Minutes to do and thousands of $ can be saved. Also please note that multistrand wire is normally used in the manufacture of motorhome, if you or an electrician, replaces those wires, they should always be tinned before inserting them into the lug socket, this practice makes sure that no loose/frayed wires is left dangling to make contact with another lug at a later date, the picture reminds of incidents that I have seen in the past due to a dangling single wire.

Richard, that is a good looking bus convert. I do have a question or two, one, does this unit have a equalizer on the 24 volt system, if not there are inverters that use 24 volt, My coach does have an equalizer, but it is a 1988 model. Having an equalizer means that you can pull from one 12 volt battery for powering a 12 volt system from your 24 volt, without damaging either battery because of excessive drain from pulling from only one, very handy in my case, and of course all lights are 24 volt except headlights, they are 12 volt, which makes them much easier to find replacements. If you notice most Prevosts has stacked all clearance lights one over one, that way the two are wired in series, so that 12 volt is used in the 24 volt system. There are many tricks that can be used in a convert to make life less difficult. My bus has a 24volt, 180 amp alternator, and since I do not use the bus air, I have a 5000 watt 240 volt inverter, which allows me to pull two roof airs right off the bus 24 volt system, just don't leave them running when the bus is not running. I did like to hear those old manual trannys shifting with an experienced driver, with the old 2 stroke detroits. My coach still has the Detroit 6v92, 335 HP with 1050 ft. lbs. @ 1600 rpm, it is a 4 speed Allison ht740 auto tranny, best fuel mileage is 68 to 72 mph, perfect for most interstates.

When looking into the FMCA data plan, I came to the conclusion that the plan offered was for one jetpack data device only, no sharing with other hotspots. If you use the plan, any phone that will connect to wifi will connect to the data device as long as it is used like wifi, not through the phone network. I use Verizon for data as well but it is through an individual plan, not FMCA. The $20.00 per month is a line charge for each device that you plan to use on the phone network, and does not include data usage in the event that you go over your data limit for that plan. If your sons phone is an unlocked version, then you should be able to switch by simply moving the sim card if the card will fit the new phone, if not then an adequate sim card will be necessary to make the change. Your son can contact his carrier and ask if they will unlock the phone in the event that it is. Phone locking usually occurs in the event that a person chooses a plan to get the phone for a reduced or free price with a particular carrier for a contract time frame, most do not have an automatic removal when the contract ends, but most carriers will unlock if you ask them to, and the contract has expired on that device. The FMCA plan is great up to 25 gig, but if you stream or use data in excess of 25 gig per month, the downgrading from 4g to 2g is to say the least, very annoying. I would advise that you take both the phone that you want to replace, and your sons phone to a Verizon center and ask that they make the swap for you, there should very small to no charge for them to make it happen, rather than just calling and getting a different rep each time. Face to face always works best for me.

Wally is main receiver for dish network satellite tv, Joeys are the small receivers that depend on the wally. Direct calls their parent receiver a Genie, the small ones are daughters.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=SHURFLO MODEL 2088 422 174 RV CAMPER WATER PUMP 2 8 GPM 12V Check this one out, and wecome to the forum.

Have you tried moving the thermostat up and down a few times? Oxidation sometimes can cause inacuracy, just moving the dial will on occasion clear this condition for a little while. Yes the thermostat is the most likely culprit.

Not sure if this is a typo, or an actual statement, ON is not the correct position for a battery disconnect switch for long period parking, that switch should be in the OFF position to not allow drainage of your batteries. And as stated by others, there usually is some parasitic draw even in that position. You also state that it is not uncommon for your coach to sit 6 to 8 weeks without the batteries draining, is it possible that you normally plug into an electric source, and this time you didn't?

Joe, nickel kits on ebay, those valves are pretty standard at most box stores. If you buy the kit, will come with a new hose outlet to match. Sams club near me has a real good looking shower assembly, I used it in the bus, works great.

Just remember to remove the batteries after each use, can be placed in a zip lock bag and taped to the pump. I used one like that several times and didn't heed my own convictions, the batteries corroded and ruined the terminals. Pump does a fantastic job though until the corrosion set in.

Tell them that it's a new mandate by the EPA, increases fuel efficency by 100%. And by the way, great job on the tankless.