kaypsmith

Normally not, usually from the house batteries, but sometimes things are miswired and sometimes they have been changed on purpose. If you remove only the ground wire from the house batteries and the fridge remains running, then it is running on the chassis battery, this will be unusual but not the first time that I have found it to be the case. Also you state that you don't believe that the chassis batteries are being kept charged, some units are equipped to charge the chassis battery while on shore power and some are not. Some are set to maintain the chassis batteries only after the house battery bank reaches 13.3 volts, and of course none of us would know how yours is set up without proper documentation. A battery maintainer can be added to the chassis battery very easily, and will certainly will not hurt anything.

Joan, I often have the same problem with the BOLD, if you look across the top of your edit page, the B appears, if gray around that B, your type will appear in bold letters. My computers have a tendency to always start out in bold, I have learned over time to just backspace over what is bold and click on the B to make sure that it is not gray, sometimes it is and sometimes it is not, so a second click has to happen to make it correct, I do not know why this happens but this is how I correct it. Happy Tales and trails, Kay

Tracey, from your description, it would appear that there is a new problem. As Carl said the chassis (start) battery/batteries is a different means of charging, the alternator on the engine should be charging these batteries. The fact that the start batteries were replaced in December does seem to indicate that there may be an alternator problem, although it does not rule out that there may be something wrong with the batteries their self. Hoping that the inverter/converter is now keeping the house batteries charged, I would now start to troubleshoot the chassis batteries and charging system. I noticed in your post that there was a possible short that caused you to replace the batteries, that same short may have also caused an alternator failure. I personally would have a qualified technician to look at the charging system for the coach.

Yes Wayne Florida is 4 land but who knows these days, maybe moved or just a vanity call. N4WQP

You can purchase cedar oil to restore the aroma of the cedar planks, works very well, just google it.

It sounds like the house batteries may have either gone bad, or you have a loose or badly corroded battery terminal on the batteries, or you have lost ground connection to the house batteries. If you have a volt meter, start by checking the voltage across the batteries to make sure that you have 12+ volts present, then next check to see if you have 12+ volts from positive post to the chassis of the coach. If no voltage from battery to chassis, then it is a ground issue. Also, check your 12 volt circuits, most of them have a fuse in the entrance of the circuits back to the batteries, may have blown. 73 OM, Kay

Welcome back Joan, I think that several of us was somewhat frustrated with the forum at that time. The I.T. personnel with FMCA really had their hands full at that time, several things happened at that time to make matters worse, but due to their perseverance the forum has been running smoothly for a while now. My hats off to them for doing a somewhat thankless job, and to you for giving us another try. Come back often, and thanks to you for letting us know that our suggestions were helpful.

Here is one on amazon if you can have it shopped to you.https://www.amazon.com/Trombetta-734-1221-020-STD-Contactor/dp/B00L83J7Y8 The unit probably actuates the solenoid on the starter, or maybe a run contactor. If it kicks in only when the key is turned to start, then first applies, if it kicks in when the key is turned to on, then the second.

Is the solenoid on top of the starter, or is it one that is away from the starter. If it is the Ford type, away from the starter, disconnect the heavy wire from the starter, replace the fuse, then use a volt meter red to the starter wire, black to ground, have someone turn the key to start and check for voltage. If voltage is present, and the fuse doesn't blow, then suspect that the starter has a short. If the fuse blows under these conditions, then the problem is before the starter.

I had to replace the valve last May, the drier was fine, so I only replaced the valve.

I only use ST rated 8 ply on my tow dolly. Mine are 205 75 14 tires, have only had one flat in 8 years. I use the same precautions as with coach tires, anything over 6 years gets replaced within 6 months.

What type 120 volt tester, is it only a circuit tester to look for correct polarity? If it is one of those type, it should only be used on an open circuit. Does the TV and VCR work now that you have changed out the TV? If you use a digital volt meter, does it read 120 volts AC across from hot to common? Most TV's and VCR's only use 2 wires so even if it is reversed it really doesn't matter to those devices.

I use POR 15 it is a rust inhibiting paint, have used POR for many years with excellent results. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=por+15&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=181841723234&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11526391057604882708&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012456&hvtargid=kwd-98803643&ref=pd_sl_6kux01ussg_e_p20

In earlier times, courtesy prevailed, but these days are out the window. That situation could easily be avoided if DOT would install stop signs at both ends of a bridge like that and post to treat it like a four way stop.

There are several available in the Pigeon forge area, my favorite is Creekside, enough room for your slides and clean restroom/shower facilities, full service hookup some 30 amp but mostly 50 amp. You had better get busy making reservations asap, that is a prime month in that area. If you can't find anything available in PF, in Wears Valley, about 12 miles from PF, Smoker Holler is a very nice cg with full service. The streams are medium full this year between Gatlinburg and Cades cove, there are many kayakers in them. Metcalf bottom is picnic area 10 miles out of Gatlinburg that offers a nice part of the stream for water activies.

With a spreadsheet carefully laid out taking all points into consideration? Most companies use P and L statements for same reason.

Loose ground or corroded connection will cause this, I would check all of them first. But a loose or corroded hot connection can react the same way. My last encounter was three months ago, turned out to be a loose connection from battery equalizer, (you will not have one of these), to the ecm. Upon getting the coach started, and before it dies, just move the wires at each terminal, sometimes the movement will either cause it to die, or to stay running. This same test on ground connections as well as hot wires can help pinpoint where the problem lies. If it is running and staying running now, this is the perfect time to move the wiring at each terminal and ground point to see if the engine stumbles.

At least Charlie 8210 will be able to answer those questions about towables while some of the motorhome genius's will be able to answer his questions. Welcome to the forum Charlie, I would like to wish you and DW many happy tales and trails!

Actually propane has no smell, making it by itself very deadly. That pungent odor is actually ethyl mercaptan which is an additive to make the propane smell so that humans can smell it, therefore making it nose to detectable.

I also use the vinegar cleaning of the hot water tank also, not quiet as aggressive as Rich, I use one gallon to four water. Dipping a dish cloth in vinegar and using it to clean the inside of the faucet will really improve the taste of water being dispensed through it as well.

Welcome to the forum. When was the last time you purged the air tanks, and dryer? May not be the culprit, but a good starting point.

I'm wondering how many of you use camping exchange cards as a means of sharing with new friends met at camp grounds.

Ernie will probably chime in, hope so, but I will not use anything other than engineered flooring, that is like plywood planks, all wood, no fiber backing, interlocking is ok, but I use urethane glue under it to keep in place.

Halley's comet is not due back till year 2061, hope we are still around to see it again! How's that for a comment Herman? Yes I'm simple also, ebay is my goto source, there is several pages there to choose from.

This in noway indicates that I endorse this product, but is the best example of my next statement. In late 60's and early 70's I ran a service station, a weekly routine was to stick the fuel tanks for water, nothing but using the measuring stick and smearing paste at the bottom of the stick, the paste was a brown color and any water at the bottom of the tank would cause the paste to turn red, letting me know if any and how much water had accumulated at the bottom of each tank. The web site here http://www.diesel-fuels.com/fuel-maintenance/kolor-kut-paste.php will describe the process. Of course checking the filter is a must, but sticking as I do on my rig about twice a year will also help in deciding if a problem is about to rise. I have a filter screen in the tank on my coach but a 36 inch brass welding rod will fit through the screen and the paste will adhere to it as well as wood. as Brett said shake the filter contents into a bucket, but I then pour the fuel into a clear canning jar and let it sit overnight, then inspect for water and other contaminants, looking for water beads at the bottom of the jar, and also black contaminates that will either float or fall to the bottom.