kaypsmith

Thanks for being honest. The little trick that I mentioned before does work, if turning off those exhaust fans is not enough, try if before going to another unit.

Joe, I don't hear rain inside mine either, only been inside with small hail, didn't know it till I looked outside. The only clue I get for heavy rain is when the awnings automatically drop because of the extra weight, that happened in Tennessee last week, poor Sue jumped out of bed, thought that someone had hit the coach.

If this is an original AC, 18 years old now, certainly is a good time to replace. As Brett stated, best go to 15K, the new units are much higher SEER meaning that they use less electricity, meaning that your current wiring should be adequate. Just a little tip, if you will use a lower fan speed on the AC, the delta will be a wider margin, using a fan on the floor under the ac, then point at an angle upward to move the cooler air to a location where needed more will surprise you in how much faster the coach will cool. Not a permanent fix by no means but will help until a replacement unit can be installed.

320 watts = just over 26 amps @ 12 volts, this would be a good charge rate for recharging the system. As for metal vs fiberglass, my coach is 41.5 feet long, is metal 37 feet with a fiberglass cap front and rear. I have to reseal the cap seams about every 5 years. Any holes in the roof will need attention, I inspect those yearly, and am prepared to do a little touch up work at anytime. Since there is movement, going down the road, shake rattle and roll, one can not expect to have some maintenance even on a Mercedes Benz. The reason Daimler bought Chrysler back in the late 90's was for the purpose of getting into the van business, while owning it, they tried to perfect the Dodge van to the sprinter and did a good job of it. When they sold Chrysler off, they only took the Sprinter with them, but left the Sprinter chassis and design for Dodge to continue.

If you stream a lot as I do, 10 gig hardly last 3 days, in that case you will be looking at $100.00 per month, believe I will stick to my unlimited data plan.

I like to use boat carpet for this purpose, most are olefin, (polypropylene), all the way through with no backing, very easy on anything it lays on, and no rubber backing to stick to what it is lying on after a high heat day in the sunshine. As Carl said, you can use a couple of Velcro self adhering dots on the dash, use the latch side (the one that feels rough), no need to use the loop because the latch will hold the olefin, it is already a loop weave. This is the same carpet that the sound shops cover their speaker boxes with.

You stated that he has been filling the tanks and the monitor is showing that the water is going down slowly, and then the fresh water pump only comes on demand. This being the case, the most probable source is the fresh water tank, of course you also state that he has been filling the tanks, plural. If this is the case, then he should drain both black and grey tanks, and watch for leak, or add a bottle of food color to each tank, one red, one blue, and one yellow, of course food color is edible, so no harm adding to the fresh tank, I would use yellow in the fresh tank, as it will clear out faster than the other colors. I have seen the tanks to leak in the past, especially if you live in a place where water might freeze, and there was no heat provided for the tanks. With the food color, is much faster to figure which one, or ones are actually leaking. Be sure to write down which tank has what color, if yellow in fresh, and the leak appears yellow, then that would be the most probable. If more than one are leaking, the colors will mix outside to make an entirely different color, red and yellow = orange, yellow and blue = green, and so on. Hope you find it soon, summer is wasting. One other thought, if the fresh water tank is being overfilled, there is supposed to be an overflow pipe attached very close to the top, if that has come off somehow, then you just might find it there, remember that the hot days of summer can cause expansion of water, and any movement of the coach can cause the water to spill over.

MWeiner, hope it will ok to call you Mark in the future, I still live in a very beautiful and peaceful home, in the middle of about 500 acres on top of one of the most beautiful hills in our area, being an amateur radio operator, a place where many other Ham's would love to hang their hat. We love traveling as well and do so as often as time will allow. I'm 72+, and still work full time. We actually enjoy the RV parks as they bring us a chance to meet many new friends, and unlike living in a close neighborhood where many so called neighbors are only nosey busy bodies, if we don't like the neighbor at the RV park, we just move. LOL! Anyway, hope you continue to enjoy to the fullest your new to you toy. Kay

Coach door will depend on how your awning and coach door are in relationship to each other. My coach is a front door model, I have a door awning over it, also have two 17 foot awnings behind this. As a result I choose to attach to the rear awning so no door is covered at any time. My screen/privacy room, has a two zippered door that is at the outside edge of the awning which does not cover the coach door. The room came with vinyl/canvas panels that are snapped to the bottom of the coach to keep the varmits from entering under the coach, also has a panel large enough to do the same over the wheel wells. I do have mine set up so that I can use it on the front awning if I choose to use that one. If you will notice, in the pic there appears to be three panels, one on right is the door, it can be rolled up from the bottom, or simply push open for exit and entry. I have the privacy panels down in the picture, but each panel rolls up for screen only. Also if I had a 20 foot awning, for personal reasons, I would only install a 10 or 12 foot room, but as you can tell with two awnings, for me, best of both worlds. Bill, sorry I missed rolled or folded, it is folded, the room came with two bags for storage.

Byron, yes being a native Alabamian, I know first hand that LA is lower Alabama, you can have the pinto's, I prefer navy beans with ham, also known as white beans to some yankees. Till the OP comes back though, we'll just have to guess.

For all we know LA might mean Lower Arizona. LOL!

I have a carefree awning room that I ordered off of e-bay, it is a 16 foot that I use on one of my 17 foot awnings. It is plenty tall enough to fit most any RV that I have ever seen. Took half a day to install the first time as there are some holes to be drilled and a few snaps that are permanently installed on the coach. The room can be set up on multiple angels, and the wife loves it. Since the first install, it takes about 30 minutes to put up and 30 minutes to take down. Really is nice where mosquitoes are prevalent and also makes a good setting in the winter time for just visiting with several friends at a time. From my experience, I suggest if this is way you decide to go, that you need to measure the awning fabric length wise and get at least a foot shorter than the actual awning, shorter is not a problem, but longer is, this is something that is not pointed out by the dealer. If you look on e-bay under rv awning screen room, from time to time there are some pretty good deals.

In that case you will make an excellent CAMPGROUND HOST. LOL! Seriously, welcome to the forum, you are in a great state to do some backyard exploring also. Many happy tales, and trails.

I realized while posting, that you obviously don't need to pull a car, but a large percentage of class A and C owners do need to pull as we are not able get around after arriving at a location. Some of us including my wife are claustrophobic when it comes to living quarters. LOL! I love your rig, but I also enjoy the larger rig for my personal use. While looking up the satellite phone, I saw one that you purchase the equipment and then buy a prepaid plan for $49.00 for 10 minutes with no expiration of time for use. For emergency use that doesn't seem too bad, and as stated, as long as there is an open sky, could be life saving, especially if one is going to do a lot of real boondocking.

You may want to just go to a satellite phone based on the way you are asking the question. https://www.voipmechanic.com/satellite-phone.htm OnStar is not a true satellite phone anyway, as OnStar just contracts with AT&T cell service for your calling needs. The system is a satellite service that uses GPS technology to send you messages and keep up with your car. Good luck with your hunt for better communications, satellite phones are pretty expensive, but do provide coverage almost anywhere. Also most of us pull a toad (towed vehicle) behind us, if the cell phone won't work where we break down, we simply drive the toad to the nearest location where cell service can be acquired.

Agree with Bill, probably a frame around the tv, once the frame is removed, it may be as simple as lifting up on the tv. Be careful lifting, that size was heavier than the led models.

Carl, check the number that you dialed, probably good Sam.

While you may be envious of others, far more are envious of your unit. Some of the ones driving a lot more expensive units than yours can be envious of your choice for many reasons. Were it I, I would drive it for as long as I was happy with my own decision and enjoy it to the limits. As Tom pointed out, you may want to visit some of the less expensive parks, and see how down to earth the vast majority live. Then when going back to the resorts, you can smile and think how lucky you should really feel.

Is the water clear? If it is from aqua hot I think that it will contain anti freeze, most of the time if anti freeze is in the water, it will be colored same color as the anti freeze, and will have a slime feel.

I agree with Brett, adding a charge line is no big deal!

I copied and pasted the photo into another file so that I could zoom in and enlarge the photo. I am now able to see droplets of water on the plastic tee and dripping down onto the electric box below. The fitting that the plastic tee is screwed into could possibly be a screw in type checkvalve. If this is the case, you will need to cut the RED PEX pipe that is to the right and goes downward. With this done, you can now unscrew the valve that is to the right of the tee, from the tee. This now gives access so you can unscrew the tee, and lastly the checkvalve from the water heater. When you are able to look inside behind the tee into the fitting, if this is a checkvalve, you will not be able see through that fitting. To put the PEX back together, simply purchase a coupler for the correct size PEX. Hope this helps!

There is no checkvalve in the posted picture, the only valve shown is an off/on valve. The tee that it is attached to is nothing more than a plastic tee screwed into what looks like, as posted above, a flare type fitting. the only possibility of a check valve in the photo is at the bottom of the red PEX line turned back towards the water heater. A checkvalve has no handle attached, as the only thing a checkvalve does is it makes the liquid flow in only one direction. Most of them looks like just another piece of pipe that is a little larger than the pipe that is setting the flow direction in. Most of them will have an arrow pointing the direction of flow, or an IN on one end and/or an OUT on the other end. The pop off valve should always be on top of the tank with a lift tab on top or side of it. The pop off valve is the most common valve that will give a problem with age as the spring/heat sensor usually gets weak, and only remedy is replacement. If you can take a picture of where the water trickles from, or a good description, can help us give better advice.

The valve pictured does not look like a check valve, looks more like an on off valve with the handle removed. As Herman pointed out, you could cut the PEX line, a pair of pruning shears works well for this or if you have a pvc cutter, is a little better. Those type of fittings are pretty inexpensive and would be my recommend to replace them. I can't understand the uncapped tee, what is supposed to go there? If that is the pop off safety valve and you have removed the release tab, my apologies, but same applies, a pop off valve is supposed to screw straight into the tank and pipe attached to carry the steam to the outside. Now for PEX plumbing, there are alternatives to using the compression rings for making new connections, most stores that sell PEX plumbing supplies have fittings that will just press on, some called SharkBite, some are called GatorBite, and several other names, very easy to work with and requires no clamps or the tool to use to compress those rings. Please take your picture to a plumbing store and have them verify what type valve that is, and get their advice on how to make the repair.

One of the best tutorials is actually on youtube, just type air brakes youtube from your browser search engine, I prefer Google, but any will do fine. If you can hear leaking when someone presses and holds the brake pedal, that is not good, but pretty easy to find if you can be outside and figure which wheel it is coming from. If you hear air when releasing the pedal, that's normal. The old soap and water sprayed onto the fittings will produce bubbles at any leak. One of the most important things to keep a check on with an air brake system is to make sure that all canisters are purged regurally, water buildup in the canisters is not good.

Maybe the RV was stolen, he didn't to leave any evidence behind!