kaypsmith

If you were wifi'ing from your toad to your cell phone, the signal that you saw on the phone was from the toad, not the cell service, just like using any hot spot wifi, that signal is from the hotspot, not the internet provider.

YEP Herman, your Samsung is 4 amps, and most Whirlpool's are 6 to 6.5, also both of these amperages are startup amps ie maximum. The Samsung usually peaks at 1.5 during the normal run stage while the whirlpools normally runs very near 4 amps while just normally running. These measurements were from test about a year ago. Newer Whirlpools may be more energy efficient but this industry is usually not too fast changing. 2000 watt inverter is about 18 amps total so your total running load needs to stay below that otherwise the inverter will not enjoy as long lifespan. Most Inverter manufacturers boast that 2000 watts is good for 4000 peak watts, but what they are not boasting is the fact that time is usually less than ten seconds, some of the better brands are good 30 seconds, and the best brands 60 seconds. Also take into consideration that there usually other items that don't use a lot of amps but they do use some.

I am still wondering what the brand name and model number is for the relay to check if it is a double pole, double throw relay. With all the info that you have provided I believe that there are IC's on that module control board that have gone bad. I believe that what is supposed to happen is when the magnet engages and the relay opens that an electronic circuit is supposed to cause a reversal of the current flow, meaning that now you should see the polarity reversed coming out of the relay back to the motor. Not sure this is totally correct without electronic schematic. If you can see the slide as you stated that you can a very simple solution is use a simple momentary normally open DP/DT switch wired in to take care of both in and out functions, only need to make sure that everyone knows to let go when fully extended or retracted. Your reply came while I was typing, so here is my next question, does the black go negative when the magnet is applied? If it does, then the out switch itself is malfunctioning. Just a side note, in a DC circuit there is no common as you do have in an AC circuit.

Is the inner slide within sight of the control switches?

The fact that the voltage is not dropping when the innerslide is all the way in is the key as to why it will not go out without reversing the wiring. This means that either the magnetic switch is not engaging when it returns to home position, or is a bad switch, or the relay contacts are welded so that the voltage does not drop. One or three of the IC's (that's the long black things with multiple legs) in the picture may have been damaged as a result. Again, MAY HAVE BEEN, not necessarily so. This is the assumption that I would be working from to correct the problem.

Ray, please check the whirlpool amp draw, you should find this info just inside the fridge door on a spec decal. If over 6 amps, I would not recomend using the microwave while in the inverter mode with only 2000 watt inverter. It should be fine otherwise. If 4 or less, it should be ok to use both assuming that the microwave is 600 or less and not in convection mode.

IF the inverter outlet has voltage when the inverter is not in the inverter mode, that would be my choice, this way it should automatically switch over for you.

Don't let me confuse the situation, I was only thinking outside the box. If the outer slide is working, then that's that. Only need to concentrate on the inner slide. Rich has very good points.

I believe this was a Friday 16:51 coach.

Is there a 12 volt exterior light already on the outside close to where you want to install the LED light? If so you can use that source instead of using the 120 volt converter.

I suspect that the switch marked SO/1B acts for both SO 1 + 1B thereby when both slides are away from their home position then either slide should be allowed to go out. Notice just above SO 1 out and SO 1B in, there is a notation, JP1 Address = Jumper out, this what apparently allows the SO 1B to function both ways, also I see a 3 amp fuse just below that space where the wires attach. Have you checked that fuse with an ohm meter or tested under load. I suspect that might a small problem there if bad. Also you state that you that you had to reset the limits on the power gear, maybe a little tweaking may still be in order. Also one other question, is the power switches for the inner slide separate from the main slide? Can you also post the name and part # for the relays?

You are correct, there only three magnetic switches that attach to this module. How long have you owned this coach and has it worked correctly before, then just stopped working?

I also wonder if the rears are 235 or 255!

With the magnet off you have voltage means that they are NC. This means of course that they open when magnet is applied making their use a limit switch, when it opens is what tells the relay at the other end to open thus causing the slide to stop at that point. Is there not another magnetic switch somewhere? Since there are two slides, both slides will need two to prevent over extension or contraction.

The above resolved the hot water issue for me with a single handle shower faucet, just added a quick cutoff at the shower head to conserve water. Without that configuration the tankless water heater never worked well.

The best tank sensor cleaner that I have used is 1/2 cup Calgon water softener (Walmart or any box store usually around washing detergents), 1/4 cup dawn dish soap, 3/4 tank fresh water, take a nice drive, then empty.

If the tank is directly below the commode, you can open the flush flapper and use a stick to actually check the water level. I would still prefer the honey wagon approach. As you said if the valve on the commode was leaking, I think that there would be an overflow onto the floor.

We installed a quick shutoff at the shower head to overcome the tank filling too fast, and the tankless was fine with that setup, it started and stopped well after installing that. The showerhead valves are sold most anywhere shower plumbing is installed.

Do you have a honey wagon "portable storage tank"? If so, I would drain the black tank into it to find out how much is actually in it. Tissue lodging on the sensor inside the tank is the most common cause for sensors reporting incorrectly. The only other place that water could enter is through the roof vent, and that's very unlikely unless you have a mischeivious neighbor.

I installed two of the tankless hot water heaters. I had to reverse the hot and cold water lines so that hot got maximum flow before the cold water even came on with a single handle shower faucet. First winter with the heater in the basement area, it froze and bursted as there is no drain to get water out of the heater tube. Put in replacement, second winter making sure that an electric heater installed to avoid the freezing problem, power went out overnight while I was away from home so no electric heat, second froze and bursted. I changed to a 5 gallon electric tank heater moved up into the coach, so far I'm keeping my fingers crossed, has lasted three years now.

If this is a true double pole double throw, check the back of the switch and make sure that the crosswires haven't become unconnected or if soldered, that the solder has not overheated and simply dropped loose. If not a dp/dt, the out can easily be replaced with one to control both directions.

ke4jr, are you still in the Tampa area? If so Bobs RV parts is at the Alachua/ High Springs exit I-75, about 3 miles North on 41, they have a pretty good assortment of salvage parts, no internet sales. Also, www.mckinneyrv.com/ is in Red Bay Alabama, has a huge selection on nearly new as well as new parts for RV. If you should find something there, I will be glad to pick it up for you, about 115 miles from where I live, and we make frequent trips to Lake City, Fl., my wife is always looking for an excuse to go there, where she was raised, lots of family and friends, you can PM a message to me for phone #. 73

Carl, It appears that you woke up in the same condition as Bill, op stated AUTOMATIC FWD, NOT AWD. Big difference! The FMCA tow guide for 2008 does not list Ford Escape 4X4 as being towable 4 down, but does list Escape 4X4 automatic hybrid as being towable 4 down.

If you are around gators, just keep the dog close by, the gators love them. I had them in my back yard while living in Lake City Fl.

Check the website.