kaypsmith

I have a Traeger portable that goes everywhere the bus goes, been using it for three years. In the eighth month the control board went out, called Traeger they expedited a replacement board that I installed myself, the technician told me that the portable had a design flaw when first introduced, the new one would have the problem resolved. Anyway I use nothing else now because it works flawlessly now. Last March at Tannehill, I cooked sixty pounds of boston butts on it for a community pulled pork feed, great results always. I have a larger home model at the house, hope not use anything else ever.

I also have the single filter, it is a two stage filter, the fuel enters at the bottom instead of the top, the bottom is the separation stage, fuel then travels upward to the canister which is the final filter. There is a ball valve immediately before the filter which I have to turn off before removing the spin off canister, with a drain **** at the bottom of the filter. I have a clear jar that I drain all of the fuel into, thus inspecting for water and any contaminants through the glass jar. After draining all fuel, I spin off the clear canister that houses the throw away filter, by the way there is a screw on cap on top of this clear canister which must be removed at the beginning of the procedure so that the fuel will evacuate the filter, there is a solenoid valve at the top of this type filter to shut down the system between the filter and fuel rail, it also is what stops bleeding between the filter and fuel rail, unless someone switches the system on with the filter removed, and in that case, you will have to bleed this part of the system also. After replacing the filter with a new one and installing new O-rings then replacing the canister, I then pour clean fuel into the canister up to the fill line, then replace the cap, then open the ball valve, if temperature is 60 degrees or above, my engine will crank with less than a half a turn. The fuel line between the tank and the lift pump if allowed to go dry does require priming, best method is as Brett suggested with air pressure, and as he stated, if the fuel in the tank is below the lift pump without shutting down at the engine end will allow backflow and cause a big problem. Not all systems are alike, but the principal is basically the same, no diesel engine can run with air in the fuel delivery system period..

Last valet key that I had with a car was a PT Cruiser Chrysler product, the valet key would unlock the doors and start the engine three times. If it was used the fourth time, it or no other key would start the engine again until a dealer reset the computer, this cost me $275.00, all may not be like that, but it sure got my attention, hence the warning, I didn't like paying that fee is only reason for warning others, I guess that Chrysler thought if someone drove off with your car with the valet key and never returned it to you, might make an unhappy customer.

The valet key is a good idea, just don't forget and try to start the key three times, on most cars three times trying to start the car and the computer will lock all keys out until the computer is reset by a dealer.

In addition to the mentioned above, make sure if you have a fast idle button on the control panel that it has not been engaged accidentally. Some have one, but not all, so this may or may not apply.

I also have the rf 197 Samsung, been going since 2013, and while traveling it runs nicely on a MSW inverter. Best thing about the Samsung is they are very low wattage which means that your current inverter should be fine. As Ross stated, that model is no longer produced, but my daughter just bought a new 18 foot at JC Penny at a very good price, next best thing is that it is on inverter technology, which means that it is even quieter and uses less current than the ones that are not inverter technology. LG also makes a very low amp unit, but not recommended unless your inverter is not PSW, if it is PSW, be sure to look at those also. Some coaches also have a side window large enough to put a fridge through, which may or may not be an option.

This sounds like the bright and dim wires are on the wrong terminals. Can't say about the turn signals, as you stated that when you engage the right signal, the left comes on, but the left sounds as though it works correctly? I had an older coach that had a similar problem, I learned that the tilt steering wheel would change the behavior if I moved the steering wheel a little farther forward to a point of actually correcting itself. This of course meant that there was a problem in the wiring harness inside the steering column. Once I found where it worked best, I quit tilting the wheel from where it worked best. Hope you find the problem, and welcome to the forum.

LOL, can't help myself, my odometer never worked as I don't have one, speedometer works fine, have to get mileage reading from the hubometer. Rich, bet you remember those.

Depending on how far away from the battery the lift is, will determine how large the wire needs to be and what amperage will be needed. My favorite installation for the wheelchair lift is to use at least 35 amp hour gelcell battery right next to the lift, then install at least a 12 guage wire to the main battery with a 20 amp fused circuit in the 12 gauge wire. This way the gelcell will take all the load of the lift and the charge line will recharge the gelcell. Be sure to use adequate wire size and fuse between the gelcell and the chair lift. As stated by others above, no way will the wire in a 7 way adapter supply enough current to raise and lower the lift.

Cold air falls, hot air rises, hence roof top AC is far ahead unless there is a lot more btu's with the basement ac. Like Herman said unless it is a bus conversion that was built to keep many passengers cool. My MCI bus air is 60,000 btu, 5 tons, it's much cheaper to run the roof air because of the extra fuel consumed running the bus air, but it sure is comfortable.

How full is the tank showing? If not too full, how about setting the fill valve to fill position, and then carefully listen for the tank filling sound? If hearing is somewhat impaired, then you could ask someone with exceptional hearing to listen. Open all the bay doors during this action for best results. Also a quart a day = 1 gal every four days, calculate how many gallons your fwt is good for, divide 1 gallon into that to figure how many days to empty tank. If still dripping after that many days means that there is another problem. If it never stops dripping, suspect that there is a problem with the backfill valve on the pump and allowing the tank to overfill, and overflow.

Since this post is going that way, when I picked up my bus in Whitehaven Pa., back in 2009, the owner of the place where I picked it up from, a bus conversion establishment, the owner had a cat, that went missing while we were in his office. A few minutes after the cat went missing, we heard a toilet flush, no one was missing except the cat, I asked the owner was this what I thought it was, he replied "yes" the cat was trained to use the toilet, and flush behind himself. We got a chance to observe it in person a little later on.

Another question that will need some careful observation in the manual, not from the salesman's statements to you, does the unit come equipped with an energy management system? Intelitec does make one and I am sure there other brands available. Some of the newer coaches does have this technology and tend to work very well by making sure that you are not calling on too much current at one time. If it does not have an energy management system, you will be on your own as Herman said. Many of the newer coaches have very energy efficient appliances installed such as a residential fridge that is equipped with inverter technology, and some of AC's also have this technology, as well as many other features. An induction cooktop uses less than half of the energy as conventional cooktops. These are just a few things to consider, as well as being prepared to just be energy conservative. Where in Alabama?

The most insecure thing that you can do to a computer, is to allow "TOOLBARS" to reside on your computer. The toolbars take you to other sites that monitors everything that you do in most cases, gives you all those unwanted ads and several of them on your computer will slow your computer to a crawl. I go to programs and features, located in the control panel, daily and look for toolbars and uninstall any that reside there. There many places that we visit that will install them unwantedly by just having you click to see something, then those disgusting critters are installed. I don't even allow Google toolbar.

The S at the end of http means that the server which you are attached to in the "cloud", internet, has established an encrypted protocol with your computer, only your computer and the server that you are in contact can understand each other. The server sends data to your computer in a manner so that the encryption actually changes at least twice per second to insure that a hacker cannot stumble onto the encryption scheme that is being used at any particular time. Sorry that this probably over some heads, but as Bill A said, it works well. Your cell phone is not as secure as your https: protocol, and think of how often you give out personal info on your phone.

I think there is a special prosecutor being hand picked as we speak!

Wow! Must eat lots of the LARGE Limas! Seriously, I was parked nest to a campground manager from Florida at a campground in Tennessee, He had a huge family of girls, girls, and more girls with him on that trip. I had already told him of the importance of only dumping the Black tank as needed, response was with this many girls it was not necessary, two days later, he started the next day and a half of trying to clear the black tank. Needless to say, next day he came over and told me that was his last time of using his old method.

Was this the mileage on the coach, or had the engine already been replaced and this is the mileage on a replaced engine?

That would be a dream vacation for me. I wasted my money on timeshares before motorhoming 30 years ago. With a timeshare you could not have seen that many places, and if it is parked, there is no yearly maintenance CONTRACT to pay.

Yep, when I was building my house 20 + years ago, I introduced the electrical inspector to mine, he was surprised that there was such an animal, and assured me that he would own one before the sun set. Mine is not as sophisticated as yours and I will attach it to a live DC circuit, but not a live AC. The one at Lowes is $40.00 but on ebay have seen them for less than $20.00. Anyone that attempts to do their own wire trouble shooting really needs one and learn how to use it, not hard but a little practice makes one an electricians best friend. Here is the search url on ebay so that you can see the many choices, I use Tripp Lite. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwiring+tone+generator.TRS0&_nkw=wiring+tone+generator&_sacat=0

It is, I use mine on the job about 3 or more times a week. Simply put one lead onto one wire, the other lead onto the other, turn it on and a signal is generated. The other device has a probe that will read that signal and produce a sound, some of them are a pulsing sound some solid, doesn't matter which. anyway, the probe does not have to come in complete contact with the wire meaning you can actually follow the wires through a thin wall, not metal of course, this allows you to determine where the wire is broken if it is. We use them for pulling network wires through an entire building from a home location without labeling the wires, then toning them out to identify each wire when done. The phone company's have been using them for years.

Most likely!

Well also one other thought is more likely a poor connection at the junction in the bathroom since that one works, as said earlier a wire signal probe would be your best friend for testing right now, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Analog-Tone-and-Probe-Meter/50278117. E-mail me if you are not familiar, ebay has them even cheaper if not in too big of a hurry. Very unlikely that the wire is broken, but there are first.

Joe, in most RV's the ceiling is glued to foam which in turn is glued to the plywood backing. A decorative channel would the easiest.

Joe, I don't remember which roof you have, rubber or fiberglass, the rubber ones traditionally used two layers of 3/4 plywood, the wire traces were routed with a wood router on the top side of the bottom layer, wires were laid in then top layer placed over that. Fiberglass was after my time of building. A fox and hound as Rich calls it, will come in handy.