kaypsmith

Tom, I don't know which Directv remote that you have, mine is white with a black back, I can select tv with the slide switch at the top of the remote, then the receiver is not affected by any function including on/off. In the motorhome, I use only one dvr receiver which is setup for uhf remote, I have 3 different TV's that are all split from the one receiver, bedroom, living room, and outside, with the uhf remote I can be at any of the sets and control the receiver.

Ditto's Wayne!

DUH!

He could add a remote controlled blinder over the IR eye on each TV, simply open the blind on the one that he wants to change,LOL. Shame that the remotes aren't UHF, one could simply change frequencies on the two sets.,

I don't think that it will hinder or hurt your unit. Good side of owning a portable unit is that you could plug it in and check before pulling into a space, but I don't think that is a big deal either, I have only experienced a faulty pedestal one time in 30 years, and hundreds of hookups. If the onboard unit does what it is supposed to, then I think were it me, I would opt for a refund, and spend the money on something of more importance to me. Just my humble opion (JUMO). Welcome to the forum, many happy tails, and trails!

I do not fault FMCA either, Verizon has done my company wrong before also, by offering something then decided not to go through with it. But Verizon Unlimited so far is not a lie, I signed up as soon as it was offered, dropped $15.00 off my 12 gig data plan, and have gone over the proverbial 22 Gig threshold three times already and have experienced no noticeable slowdowns yet. Lets please move on, horse is already dead, beating it will NOT REVIVE it.

I wasn't referring to switching light sockets from left to right, there are two wires required for each light, one for dim, the other for bright, these was what need to be reversed to cause dim and bright, in most cases there will also be a negative, usually white in a three wire setup. This may require actually cutting the two positive wires and splicing back in a reversed fashion.

The orange extension cord appears to be #10 solid wire, another "NO-NO" if it is solid. Solid wire tends to loosen at any joint that uses screw down force to keep it in place, causing premature arching that can lead to fire. The breakdown is caused by the fact that while moving and shaking of an rv causes undue stress on the joints. Many RV manufacturers used solid wire in the late 80's and early 90's and found it not a good practice.The reason that I think it is solid is because of the flat appearance. If it is solid, I highly recommend replacing with a stranded cable, the more strands, the better, actually a 10 gauge extension cord would be the best choice. I would almost bet that it terminates into a 30 amp transfer switch.

We used to use WD40 years ago to help start both gas and diesel engines, because of the propane propellant, of course good old uncle Sam stopped that practice by mandating the propane not be used any longer. I agree, gas engines yes, diesel engine NO. All the city buses in B'ham Al, are run on natural gas compressed because of a deal struck with Alagasco.

A gfci breaker certainly is not in any code that I know of. The gfci on a 240 circuit would be an overkill, it would be tripping both sides at once causing complete failure to the entire coach, as the gfi is designed to measure amperage between the hot leg and common with 4 milliamps difference, "that's 4/1000 of an amp", triggering the throw. Electric motors starting will cause a gfi to throw, so electrical code even allows for no gfi even in a basement of a home if the device has an electric motor that must be started, ie, fridge, ac, woodworking tools, and others. The rv is already supposed to have gfi protection in any area where it is needed.

RogerS has returned.

I think that the cg guy is incorrect. To date I have also not seen a 50 amp or 30 amp for that matter gfi recep. Yes on the 15/20 not on the 30 or 50. http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=96015 If the cg guy is an experienced electrician, he may be overly cautious. A 50 amp gfi breaker is a very high priced piece of equipment. Also there will be a push switch on the front of the breaker that must be reset before the regular switch on the breaker can be reset.

Be sure to check exhaust to turbo input, happened to me 2 years ago coming home from Tennessee, right hand exhaust cracked and broke into, replaced that tube all was well till 3 weeks ago on trip to Florida, lh pipe broke into again next to the flange. Both times no turbo boost until those pipes were replaced, couldn't even see the breaks until I had my wife to step on the accelerator while watched. Same symptom, no power for acceleration and no black smoke.

Yes that is possible as I described above, the going into means going into the interface, "a software function", that allows one to set what tcpip range this device will use, and broadcast on the lan side. The default parameters of the two mobley's, and quiet possibly the Verizon unit as well, will have the broadcast addresses set to the same subnet which will not allow multiple input routers to communicate to those devices because of confusion. Example 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.0.1, will not work, 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.1.1 will., and in the latter case, the router that you will now attach to, can be assigning 192.168.3.2/254.

Thanks for reminding me, my 1987 Southwind had that system but there was no electric backup system on that unit that worked while I owned it. The only one that I could use was stand up on the brake pedal, then again I always had to do that even when the motor was purring like a kitten.

A dry lube is best, as it will not attract more dirt into the area. Silicone or graphite!

I looked into the Mobley, and found that the device does not have those capabilities built in. The capability to combine two services has been around for several years, it requires the use of a router with two or more wan ports with load balancing capabilities. These can be acquired for about $60.00 and up, depending on just what you are wanting to do. This is not hard to set up and can be done with any two services, if you have one service that is 10 meg speed, and one with 20, the unit will combine the two and result in a total of 30. If anyone has the desire to take this on, I will be happy to assist over the phone. This is not complicated to achieve.

Backup brake motor? This is a new one on me, didn't know any brand MH that had one of these. What type braking system do you have, air or hydraulic?

If your coach is throwing a 50 amp breaker, then the coach would be pulling 50+ amps on either leg, L1, or L2, this is why it is a 240 volt breaker, yes it is a combined total or 100 amps at 120 volts, but either leg exceeding 50 amps at 120 will trip the breaker. This would be nearing zero ohms, or any dead short on either leg of the 240 volt circuit. A faulty or frayed power cable could easily be a culprit.

I would recommend Noalox grease, not dieelectric grease for the electrical connection. Noalox is to be used between the battery post and the connector, it is conductive for transferring electricity from the electric source to the transfer device (cable), helps to reduce oxidation. Dieelectric grease is nonconductive and should be used on the outside of any electrical connector for sealing out elements. Very good advice Bill, and X3 Herman, remove the ground cable first with a thorough cleaning, then reinstall last to prevent the possibility of any unnecessary arching.

If the thermostat doesn't have batteries, it is probably powered by the 12 volt house system. If that is the case you might be starting to have an issue with one or more of the house batteries.

Just called FMCA, I already have Verizon Myfi, was told to contact Verizon to ask for the offer, they in turn will instigate a three way call with me on the line, and FMCA, I will have my membership info as well as the Verizon account on hand. Hope this is helpful.

Electric and electronic don't like to sit for sure!

smithy, thanks for your efforts, I have been using Verizon for internet for years, and just recently was offered the unlimited plan for $65.00 and thought that was wonderful, had been paying $80.00 for 12 gig. So to think now about being offered the plan with another $20.00 discount is a great advantage. So guys, and gals please be appreciative of FMCA to continue looking for more benefits for us. I don't feel that this a failure, leaks happen, if you don't believe it, listen or watch the news. THANKS AGAIN, Kay

All inverter/converters that I have had any dealings with have built in overload protection, and will shutdown automatically with an overload condition, or a battery low condition. If battery drops below a predetermined voltage it will usually start sounding an alarm, then another lower voltage will auto shutdown. With the unit not plugged in, or the motor running on the MH this should have happened unless it is a faulty unit. The only other condition that might have happened that comes to mind, is a loose wire connection either on the 12 volt side, or the 110 volt side, especially on the 12 volt side might have caused enough overheating to start a fire. These are all reasons why at least an annual inspection of all wire connections should be in place, starting with the transfer switch, then all the way through the RV.