huffypuff

If you look a Joe picture, you will notice that it is being transported in the upright position. When I have any compressed gas delivered to my shop they are always shipped upright. Once in use such as a forklift it can be on the side if design to be used that way.

How do I change the title of this thread to Inverter Charger Now Fixed?

If your getting odd codes that don't relate maybe you have the right connector but the wrong scan gauge for your year, make and model of engine

Got the replacement Auto Generator Start module today. I replace the module out of the kit only and that fixed the problem I was having with the auto start to shut down when finished. I put it through it's initial test and then the active test. It auto start by temperature and shut down when temperature dropped. It's on quiet time now and can auto start again if the batteries are low enough at 7:00 am. I will be testing for a few days to make sure no problems. Right now I only have a 12 fan running on low so may come on tomorrow again for temperature. Then all I have to do is find a good place to run the temperature wire inside the coach. I'm thinking the galley would be best. If anybody got experience running that wire, let me know.

I second this.

Since you just brought your new to you coach before you go on your next major trip, check the dates on the tires. Tires that are 7 years or older are prone to blow outs. On a coach that size it could lead to a accident let alone blow out a fender well.

I saw worst on a couple of year old Tiffin. Needless to say I walked if this is the quality they put into their coaches.

Warranty is still hard and taking long. Called Everett, WA factory and after the diagnosis of bad unit the agreed to replace it. Took three days to ship not local but from Minnesota and won't get until the middle of next week. At that time I'm supposed to ship the other new unit back to them. While I'm waiting for all this they are riding a hold on my credit card for $339, way more than I paid for it in the first place. So at this point I'm out of $537 for a auto generator start that don't work.

In mine it's on the back wall in the battery compartment. It's actually a large continuous duty solenoid.

The front end loader driver is responsible to get it replaced for you.

Thanks for the replies. I called tech support today and we ran some test over the phone. During one test when the module timed off and the generator failed to stop the tech had me jump terminal 6 & 7 and the generator shut off right away. He determining that number 2 relay in the module is not working and I need to replace that new module. I filled a RMA form out and email it back to them. I hope this fixes it as it is frustrating to have something new fail to work. I hope I can get this feature to work like it should as it will run the generator when it really needs to, not when I think it need to. May save some diesel fuel in the long run.

The wiring for the generator switches is three wires with a added wire for hour meter or light. The three wires are common ground, start and stop. The two switches inside works okay and you can start and stop the generator by removing the three wires in the inverter compartment by touching together the start or stop wire to common ground. That tested good before installing the module and well as the module ground, 12 volts and hour meter 12 volts. The short network cable coming from the module plugs into the back of the inverter to receive program setting. The longer remote cable is a temperature sensor to be run somewhere inside the coach. It sense temperature to start generator when the temperature rise over a set temperaturer. I set the temperature to 75 and ran the end of that wire outside and it works as program when the temperature went above 75. The generator didn't shut down after the temperature dropped to 66 well below the set point. In the field I will be coming home to chilly dogs (pun intended). Not really for I will have the AC set higher but you should get the point. The problem is that when the module shuts off, it fails to shut down the generator first. I have it wired according to instruction to the module.

I got the auto generator start module network version, install it and program it at the control panel. It starts the generator as programed but the generator don't shut off as supposed to when commands by the program. I recheck the wiring harness at the module for start stop and common and they work fine there. I set the dip switches in the module for Quiet Diesel Generator. Does anybody knows what could of went wrong? New control panel, new inverter charger, new AGS module. The following is the latest on the install upgrade. AGS kit comes with module, network cable, 50 foot temperature wire, warning sticker and owners manual. This is the wiring harness from the coach connection. Blue is hour meter, orange is 12 volts, white is ground, red is gen start, brown is gen common, green is gen stop. On the lower left is the dip switch and they are all set to off for Quiet Diesel generator. The lower right is the setting for battery which is 12 volts in this case. This is the AGS module mounted with network and temperature cable plugged in. When the program is running the status light is green and goes out when program has ended. The generator not supposed to be running at that point unless manually started. This is the problem I have is the generator don't turn off at end of program and has to be manually turn off.

I can't tell you how many I changed when I worked in a fleet shop. There was a run of a weak design that we went through.

I stopped paying for gps when I got the rand mcnally piece of junk a few years ago and sent for refund. I been using google maps ever since with no problems. You also get traffic updates.

Weather it's a retrofit or not there should be a time when it should be slid out for cleaning. Dust bunnies, fan stopped, poor air circulation, you name it.

The first step is to put that new remote in. Done The next step is to install a AGS controller. I have to order it. It will need to be wired into the harness I found in the inverter charger compartment. I tested the harness today and it tested good as per the wire diagram and color codes. Six wires connect from the coach harness to the AGS controller, A 4 pin wire connects from the AGS controller to the inverter charger. Another 4 pin wire connects to the temperature sensor. I'm not sure if I need to buy that separate. Once install it can be program to start if it gets too hot. The a/c or heat pump need to be already setup when the generator starts and give it 120 volts. Magnum Energy Automatic Generator Start Controller - Network Version The ME-AGS-N is the 'network' version of Magnum Energy's Automatic Generator Start (AGS) controllers. The version is setup and operated via a Magnum Energy Inverter and ME-RC or ME-ARC remote panel. When using the ME-RC Remote, the ME-AGS-N has basic adjustments starting on battery voltage or temperature. When using the ME-ARC remote, the ME-AGS-N has advanced start and stop settings based on: Time of day, battery State of Charge, battery voltage, high temperature, or inverter load amps. Also includes the ability to manually turn the generator ON and off, generator exercise, warmup and cooldown.

Got the remote today and installed easy as used same wiring and screws to mount. Below picture is the difference of the old and new remote control. This in the new remote installed and when it booted up I had to set the clock in it for the auto start and select temperature display in C or F.

I found a wiring harness in the same compartment as the inverter charger that should be for the auto generator start. I then look up on the net and found a diagram on how to wire it to the module by color codes for my coach and the quiet diesel. It also show how to set the dip switches. I'm going to receive the ARC 50 tomorrow and right after I install it this weekend I will get out my power probe and test that harness connector.

Here's another idea since your plugged into shore power. Why not use the house batteries since they are already hooked up to a 100 amp charger inverter. That air compressor should perform well using those batteries. Be sure you got it hooked up to 12 volts.

You can get the temperature right from your RC 50. Press tech button, press rotating dial, rotate dial to see battery and two internal temperature.

If you are using the inverter You need a vent to let the heat out and even better to have a fan blowing to the outside. The way I'm cutting the dirt is using a A/C foam filter on the air inlet of the compartment. My new inverter charger is quite up to date and I have a ARC 50 remote control on the way. I have to find the wiring for the auto start module before I think about hooking it up.

Your remote should have battery temperatures and inverter charger temperatures read out. On my RC 50 it's under the tech menu.

My coach is equipped with a load management and with 30 amps will shut off a A/C as needed. If A/Cs are running and you use the microwave , instead of turning off the microwave it will turn off one A/C until you're done with the microwave. You can't run everything with limited amount of amps. You said that when you run the generator the problem goes away. There you go.

I would check with DW first before removing those mirrors. They may complain about them but try to remove them. 😲