huffypuff

Bypass the box for testing purpose, if it works then get a ARP controller to replace the box. Check out the link below. https://www.arprv.com/

Yep a blank screen usually means the black box tripped. The red light on means it's tripped. Strong magnet to reset by holding it near the light for 5 seconds. You should hear a couple of clicks and the red light will go out.

18 cubic feet to 12 cubic is only 33% less.

On my 06 I have a disabled switch for the ATC on the console and accidentally switched it off one time. Same thing happen, warning lights came on. I soon figured out later what I did.

I noticed in their videos to use loctite and be sure to tighten fully. I bet it's to cover their butts if it came loose. Yep, it will be your fault, not theirs.

When you flush the brake fluid I recommend upgrading to DOT 4 or even better DOT 5.1 but not DOT 5 which is silicone based. These have a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and recommended by many brake manufacturers. DOT 5.1 is used in high-performance and heavy-duty applications due to its high boiling point. It’s compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid There's also certain brake pads recommended for trucks such as semi metallic or carbon metallic but don't used ceramic brake pads on trucks. Follow the link for more information on brake fluid. https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/

The biggest problem with my coach as many is there a rear radiator. The fan there has a tendency to suck rocks into the radiator and damage it. To protect the radiator the manufacture install a belly screen to stop the rocks. What happens is those rocks roll across the screen and come out between the bumper and the factory rock guard with your toad gets blasted. What the "sweeper" do is catch those rocks below the bumper and direct them down to the ground where they belong. I had the old factory rock guard and it was a big failure and was also like dragging a anchor in the water. If you have a side radiator and good mud flaps behind the rear wheels you don't need either of them. Also neither will protect your toad from getting dirty from rain or dust.

I replaced my coach rock guard with this. Works very good for rocks.

This flexible connector solves all problems at campground sewage connection. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-39319-Flexible-RhinoExtreme-Connection/dp/B07FJFZPHL/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z37Q6WW8MYZWHBGKN39K

Seems like too much oil with the blue smoke. Check shop manual on checking oil level. Some diesel manufactures want it check at operating temperature after sitting about 10 minutes

Be sure to select AGM at your inverter/charger remote for the house batteries.

I would disconnect the whole cylinder assemble and bench test it before reinstalling. Use new screws with loctite if they are not broken off.

Did you pull radiator and CAC off to clean them. If you can, remove the thermostat and fill the engine with antifreeze until level with thermostat opening then reinstall thermostat. Afterwards fill as much as you can with antifreeze then you have less chance of air pockets.

I don't have one in mine.

We had a Buffalo 10 ton military surplus that started on gas then switch to diesel. That forklift was a beast and we use it mostly lifting wrecked cars by the side and moving where we wanted. It was a WWII item. Link similar what we had. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LsBOw3txME

most See above statement. Once in use such as a forklift it can be on the side if design to be used that way.

It's going to take some scoping out as I was thinking going out the wall where factory gen start wiring comes in the compartment, up the frame to area the plumbing goes through the floor. There is a double wall with access panel between the galley and shower so I can attach on that wall and drop the extra in the cavity between the walls. Well that is the plan if I can get to it. Thanks

If you look a Joe picture, you will notice that it is being transported in the upright position. When I have any compressed gas delivered to my shop they are always shipped upright. Once in use such as a forklift it can be on the side if design to be used that way.

How do I change the title of this thread to Inverter Charger Now Fixed?

If your getting odd codes that don't relate maybe you have the right connector but the wrong scan gauge for your year, make and model of engine

Got the replacement Auto Generator Start module today. I replace the module out of the kit only and that fixed the problem I was having with the auto start to shut down when finished. I put it through it's initial test and then the active test. It auto start by temperature and shut down when temperature dropped. It's on quiet time now and can auto start again if the batteries are low enough at 7:00 am. I will be testing for a few days to make sure no problems. Right now I only have a 12 fan running on low so may come on tomorrow again for temperature. Then all I have to do is find a good place to run the temperature wire inside the coach. I'm thinking the galley would be best. If anybody got experience running that wire, let me know.

I second this.

Since you just brought your new to you coach before you go on your next major trip, check the dates on the tires. Tires that are 7 years or older are prone to blow outs. On a coach that size it could lead to a accident let alone blow out a fender well.

I saw worst on a couple of year old Tiffin. Needless to say I walked if this is the quality they put into their coaches.

Warranty is still hard and taking long. Called Everett, WA factory and after the diagnosis of bad unit the agreed to replace it. Took three days to ship not local but from Minnesota and won't get until the middle of next week. At that time I'm supposed to ship the other new unit back to them. While I'm waiting for all this they are riding a hold on my credit card for $339, way more than I paid for it in the first place. So at this point I'm out of $537 for a auto generator start that don't work.