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Everything posted by huffypuff
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This looks like something you would take to a professional glass shop.
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I finished the roof painting yesterday and almost matched. The biggest reason it not a perfect match is the paint is rolled and not clear coated but the color is very close so don't make a differences. I hope these pictures will work so you can see.
- 13 replies
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- fiberglass
- aluminum
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You have to disconnect the cables and charge the batteries with a separate battery charger then test the batteries. Then hook up one battery with shore power unplugged and everything turned off and check for draw. you may have to pull fuses to find draw if it has one. Do the same with chassis battery and check for draw with everything turned off. Start the engine and check voltage to the batteries with engine running. You should have more voltage at least to the chassis battery, if not possible alternator. Shut off engine and plug in shore power. You should have more voltage to house battery. If not possible inverter/charger is bad or transfer switch is bad. I see you are in Gig Harbor, WA. I would come and take a look if you were closer but from where I'm am I would need a boat to get there.
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- engine wont start
- wont charge
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First you have to pull all batteries, get them charged and tested then you have something to go on. Replace any bad battery and then see if charging system will work. Please be aware that a charging system isn't meant to charge your batteries but to maintain the charge. When hooked to shoreline the inverter charger is suppose to charge and maintain the house batteries but not necessary the chassis batteries. Look for a battery boost switch to help you start the engine.
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- engine wont start
- wont charge
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That seal for the cap should have come with the filter.
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I 2nd what Medico say.
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Thank you Chuck as we all know, not enough fuel will make less power.
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It is getting to the point that many over the road trucks are using it. It is an electronic servo motor between the steering shaft and gearbox that aids to keep steering straight, aids in returning steering and adjust for road condition. I remember a Volvo commercial where two Volvo rigs with trailer backing up at 50 mph side by side. An acrobat balanced himself on two mirror one on each truck and the shows at least a mile. The drivers did not have their hands on the steering and the trucks stayed within a few feet within each other and the acrobat didn't lose his balance. I say drive both coaches and I bet you will get the one that is easier to drive. I wish I have this system on my coach. BTW my Cadillac SRX4 is electric power assist with no hydraulic pump on the engine. In the future we will be driving cars hands free with radar keeping us in or lane, automatic braking in a emergency and automatic speed control to adjust for traffic.
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Portable BBQ Grills For Carrying In RV
huffypuff replied to petersensrv's topic in General Discussion
The one I use is a Traeger PTG. It burns different flavor pellets and can smoke as well as BBQ. It needs 120 volts for fan and element and you can even use a cheap inverter. After using a Traeger grill I will never use propane again. http://www.traegergrills.com/shop/detail/BBQ020#.U54uK5RdWxQ -
I know mine is older but it does have a separate lockout switch. Then it has two switches, one inside and one outside to extend and retract the awning.
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I wonder what amperage your are getting from where you plugged in at? Is it 15, 30 or 50 amp service?
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Thanks for letting us know what it took to fix your fridge.
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John I'm sure there is a roof coating that you can use that renews rubber roofs. You can try at Camping World.
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If you need to use the fridge you can bypass it and see if it works providing that you take all other safety precaution.
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Did some work on the roof today. Used 320 grit sandpaper using a 6 inch sander polisher. Got the paint a near match but no flakes in it. Added flakes today and shook it at hardware store. Hopefully I get it on tomorrow after I wash and tape it off. Might get hit by rain tonight so not today.
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Residential refrigerators are not without problems. Hazard: An electrical failure in the relay, the component that turns on the refrigerator's compressor, can cause overheating and pose a serious fire hazard. Check this link out. https://repair.maytag.com/prjjck/refrigerator.jsp
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I has to be an outdated kit because the latest is resettable. The part number on mine is 634677 Rev. E. Any recall box with a lesser revision letter may not be resettable and has been lots of problems. It's nice of your dealer to call you in so they can break your fridge. You need to be sure you can reset it in the field. http://www.arprv.com/troubleshoot-norcold-recall.html
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In order for the relay to work there must be power to it. When mine goes out I hold the strong magnet to it and it usually takes a few seconds to reset. Then you can go inside and turn the fridge on.
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That is the same place my batteries are so it is different. I hope you have an access door to the dryer because it may take one heck of a strap wrench to get it off. I had to use a cheater pipe on the breaker bar that attached to the strap wrench. Lucky for me nothing broke. When your tanks fill it will expel air once at the bottom when the tanks reach full. If you have the same problem getting it off put the strap wrench near the threads because the end of the cartridge could collapse.
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When the air tanks fill up it expels air at the bottom of the valve that the dryer filter screws on to when the tanks reach full. I guess if there is excess moisture you will see vapors. Another way to tell is open one of your drain valves and see if there is a mist coming out of it. For some reason I have 2 drains up front one with a hose fitting on it and one in the rear I supposed for toad brakes. The fuel water separator has a non removable warning sensor at the bottom so you don't drain it. If you got water at the sensor it will turn a light on the dash. I replace all fuel filters including generator and air dryer every year.
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I know my coach is a few younger than your but I let you know where I found mine. It was behind the AC condenser on the left side behind the rear wheel. The AC panel unlatches with a barrel key with the first panel flipping up and the next condenser swinging out with fan motor after you unlock it with the barrel key. Behind it I found the air dryer, fuel water separator and the jacks pump, reservoir with relays.
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Hold strong magnet to the right of the blinking light and it should go out.