huffypuff

In the process of elimination if the starter clicks it getting power to the solenoid so banging on is worth a try. New don't always mean good. I had a older Nissan in my shop where the starter would only clicks intermittently. New starter came back after a while. Had new batteries installed by customers. I redid all connection and that didn't solve problem. New ground and positive cable didn't fix it. I banged on the starter with no result. Finally replace starter again and no more problem since. You may never know until replacing the starter. My google search shows many Sprinters with no start problems but not starter clicks with no cranking.

When the starter just clicks without cranking it is usually a bad starter. If access to the starter is ok, trying banging on it when it does it again and if it comes to life you found the problem.

I would then suspect the fuel pump and while the tank is out hopefully a green blob isn't floating around. It also could be ignition module as that is another problem area that fits the symptoms.

See you guys at Redmond

Camping World did a great job for my repair. They order the part and I took home until the part came in. I took to them when part came in and was done same day. Mice is everywhere not only at Camping World and I heard dryer sheets helps.

It unbelievable that the first shop you took it to sent you on your way without changing the fuel filter and fuel treatment. You could also have water in the tank for all we know. I betting that fuel filter and fuel treatment will fix it. I like seafoam and had use it many times on cars that sit often.

Hi Jim and Carol, welcome to the forum and FMCA. I joined nearly a year ago and feel it was a good choice. My family membership is due next month and I think I'll go for five years this time around.

If you have a 2006 Monaco you should have a Power Gear Leveler system. If you hit the on off button you should get lights to tell you it's on with no beeping. If there is beeping there is a fault such as parking brake not on, shifter not in park or fluid is low. If there is no light that comes on the panel with the ignition switch on and engine not running then I would be checking for a 15 amp fuse.

I read this in the manual. ADDING WATER TO TOILET BOWL Press “Add Water” switch (fig. 4 1) until desired water level is achieved. (Water flow will shut off automatically if switch is pressed too long to avoid overflow.) More water is usually added only when flushing solids. I hope this helps.

I have same kind of doors with plungers for latches and for some reason over bumps they can loosen up. I adjust the latches as tight as I can and use my palm on the latch to close tight. Slightly pull on latch handle and if there is any play in the latch the plunger is not fully extended. That has helped me to keep the doors close.

Mark you should see our experience of "Our Holiday Travel Misadventure so Far". This is when we travel from the west coast to the east coast and back last Christmas and the things that went wrong. I had the Norcold trouble on my way to Alaska last summer with a fresh recall. Guess I'm never suppose to power wash after driving through so many chip seal project. I bypassed it until I figured out how to bypass it with a strong magnet. Seem like every event is an adventure. http://community.fmca.com/topic/6353-our-holiday-travel-misadventure-so-far/?hl=misadventure

Rich answer is good about the flex line between the caliper and steel line as the plastic inner lining can melt causing restriction. I wouldn't replace the caliper without new line.

Sounds like a very thin weatherstrip would work on back edge only. That is the edge that contacts the weatherstrip last on the glass frame. They make peel and stick kind and you will add on top of what's there. You can peel it off if it's too tight and won't latch. Worth a try and won't cost much.

If the instruments are dead with good power and ground then you will probably get a reman instrument cluster. Very common with GM chassis but I don't know what Freightliner use during that time.

If it's a diesel generator, make sure that you have at least 1/3 tank of fuel before starting and prime before starting. Many manufactures set up the generator to run out of fuel at about 1/4 tank so you don't run out of fuel for main engines.

Take your pick from the first two depending on which base plate you have. https://www.etrailer.com/partlist/Chevrolet/Avalanche/Tow%20Bars

E1 code means a hardware failure in the gas operation. First thing to do is make sure the propane line has no air in it.

We have an electric one in our coach and it zips out of the way when not in use. Made by powergear try the link. http://www.powergearus.com/products/step-well-covers

Hard for me to compare baseplate for my toad as yours as it looks like the crossbar on your unit has the crossbar built in. The first one looks like it works with the older tow bar if you have accessories to attach to it as a shield to protect the toad. Of course I have the additional bracket so EZ-4 would work for me. I don't think you need another crossbar with either as both baseplates has it built in. The second one EZ-5 is more simplified set up as the tow bar hooks directly to it. Still call Roadmaster support.

Astro van is about the size of VW van.

If the relays is on the board it is possible that the salesman switch sends a ground to the board. No ground, board won't turn on.

Simple test light to test all fuse for voltage in and out. The jumpers are connectors for output and should have voltage going out from them. The salesman switch should work a relay that turns power off and on to the fuse panel.

Conversion day van, does it look something like this.