huffypuff

When you find a class A you like have a surveyor check it out for you if not new. We can help you some but there are lots of problems that can be overlooked. http://www.rvsurvey.com/

I just solved another electrical problem that had others stumped by simple following a wiring diagram yesterday. 2004 Ford F-150 pickup HVAC blower motor not working. There were several relays and computers and modules and switches to test. I checked for ground to the blower motor and good. That proves the switch, the resistor as well as the body ground was good. Check for positive power to the blower motor and there was none. Check fuses then relays and found fuses good but relay not working. Found relay was lacking a ground and grounded that terminal and blower motor came on. Look at wire diagram again and found orange wire supplied ground to relay when mode switch is on any selection except off. Replace that module in dash today and problem is solved. How is this relevant? This would be the same way to check problems with starter as I did with the above Nissan. I knew the interlock system wasn't the problem as I got power to the s (start) terminal. That mean that the two relays and it's connection were good. So I can focus on the starter and or connection at the starter. Took two starters to cure it and I hate when that happens but it does. This one was so intermittent that it would start 20 times before it failed. Both starters, go figure.

Almost right, see my signature. The key doesn't have to be on but you need to have a dummy key made to turn the ignition one click to unlock the steering wheel. You won't have to install a charge wire unless the brake system and lights on the toad is used. I used magnetic lights and Roadmaster brake system so I install a charge wire. Been cross country and back with that setup and it followed us like a puppy.

Here is link I found with starter click. http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6490 I seen the post you mention Rich but that wasn't clicking at starter.

The OP need to find out if the clicking is from the starter itself or if the clicking is another relay. Work from the starter back to ignition switch. You will need a wiring diagram for it.

In the process of elimination if the starter clicks it getting power to the solenoid so banging on is worth a try. New don't always mean good. I had a older Nissan in my shop where the starter would only clicks intermittently. New starter came back after a while. Had new batteries installed by customers. I redid all connection and that didn't solve problem. New ground and positive cable didn't fix it. I banged on the starter with no result. Finally replace starter again and no more problem since. You may never know until replacing the starter. My google search shows many Sprinters with no start problems but not starter clicks with no cranking.

When the starter just clicks without cranking it is usually a bad starter. If access to the starter is ok, trying banging on it when it does it again and if it comes to life you found the problem.

I would then suspect the fuel pump and while the tank is out hopefully a green blob isn't floating around. It also could be ignition module as that is another problem area that fits the symptoms.

See you guys at Redmond

Camping World did a great job for my repair. They order the part and I took home until the part came in. I took to them when part came in and was done same day. Mice is everywhere not only at Camping World and I heard dryer sheets helps.

It unbelievable that the first shop you took it to sent you on your way without changing the fuel filter and fuel treatment. You could also have water in the tank for all we know. I betting that fuel filter and fuel treatment will fix it. I like seafoam and had use it many times on cars that sit often.

Hi Jim and Carol, welcome to the forum and FMCA. I joined nearly a year ago and feel it was a good choice. My family membership is due next month and I think I'll go for five years this time around.

If you have a 2006 Monaco you should have a Power Gear Leveler system. If you hit the on off button you should get lights to tell you it's on with no beeping. If there is beeping there is a fault such as parking brake not on, shifter not in park or fluid is low. If there is no light that comes on the panel with the ignition switch on and engine not running then I would be checking for a 15 amp fuse.

I read this in the manual. ADDING WATER TO TOILET BOWL Press “Add Water” switch (fig. 4 1) until desired water level is achieved. (Water flow will shut off automatically if switch is pressed too long to avoid overflow.) More water is usually added only when flushing solids. I hope this helps.

I have same kind of doors with plungers for latches and for some reason over bumps they can loosen up. I adjust the latches as tight as I can and use my palm on the latch to close tight. Slightly pull on latch handle and if there is any play in the latch the plunger is not fully extended. That has helped me to keep the doors close.

Mark you should see our experience of "Our Holiday Travel Misadventure so Far". This is when we travel from the west coast to the east coast and back last Christmas and the things that went wrong. I had the Norcold trouble on my way to Alaska last summer with a fresh recall. Guess I'm never suppose to power wash after driving through so many chip seal project. I bypassed it until I figured out how to bypass it with a strong magnet. Seem like every event is an adventure. http://community.fmca.com/topic/6353-our-holiday-travel-misadventure-so-far/?hl=misadventure

Rich answer is good about the flex line between the caliper and steel line as the plastic inner lining can melt causing restriction. I wouldn't replace the caliper without new line.

Sounds like a very thin weatherstrip would work on back edge only. That is the edge that contacts the weatherstrip last on the glass frame. They make peel and stick kind and you will add on top of what's there. You can peel it off if it's too tight and won't latch. Worth a try and won't cost much.

Hopefully Ernie knows how to operate the stat. On mine you have to select the zone 1 or 2 first then the mode off/heat/AC/heat pump/fan only then the fan speed of hi/lo or auto.

If the instruments are dead with good power and ground then you will probably get a reman instrument cluster. Very common with GM chassis but I don't know what Freightliner use during that time.

If it's a diesel generator, make sure that you have at least 1/3 tank of fuel before starting and prime before starting. Many manufactures set up the generator to run out of fuel at about 1/4 tank so you don't run out of fuel for main engines.

Take your pick from the first two depending on which base plate you have. https://www.etrailer.com/partlist/Chevrolet/Avalanche/Tow%20Bars

E1 code means a hardware failure in the gas operation. First thing to do is make sure the propane line has no air in it.

We have an electric one in our coach and it zips out of the way when not in use. Made by powergear try the link. http://www.powergearus.com/products/step-well-covers