jleamont

No, while ones charging you still have two more = more production . As my DW says "I thought you would be done by now, what's taking so long?"

I want to share a ghost electrical problem that intermittently comes and goes on our coach and the simple fix. On occasion when I turn on the headlights or marker lights, my right turn signal arrow on the dash would glow dim and I would loose the right rear turn signal in the back. As soon as I had an opportunity to investigate it was fine . Well it finally broke completely. When I turn on the marker lights and the hazards, none of the turn signal lights in the rear of the coach would blink, (the front signals would blink very slowly) the rear lights would come on bright (separate amber lights on our coach for rear turn). When the right turn signal was on, same result on the right side, left side worked fine. I figured I had a ground problem in the right turn signal circuit, so I pulled the right lens out, can't find a problem... scratched my head went to the front and as soon as I unsnapped the lamp from the lens it started to blink normally. I removed the LED bulb and replaced it with a regular 3157A bulb, and it worked fine, put the LED back in blinking slow again , hmm bad LED bulb? I swapped the LED bulb with the left front, it worked fine over there. Plugged the left LED bulb in the right side and it acted up again. It turned out to be a bad socket ground inside the socket, for some reason the standard light bulb worked and the LED didn't like it. One of those problems where you can't see the fault and I had a ground with my volt meter when I Ohm'ed it out. I removed the Ford socket with the attaching plug and replaced it with a splice in one piece socket (GM replacement part). $6.53 at the local auto parts store.

trkhelp, that was before my time, but I sure would love to read those old articles, that would keep me entertained for days. Too bad there wasn't a tab on here that went that far back.

I carry enough including a jack and torque wrench to pull a 22.5 wheel off but I do not have a spare tire I also carry this little Craftsman tool chest, a set of all different types of pliers and screwdrivers in their own plastic boxes, rescue tape, electrical tape, crimp tool, wire stripper and crimp connectors and a DVOM.

I travel to Maine/Mass 2x a year for work, I run 287 to 87 to 84 to 90 to 495 to 95 (north of Boston). I have run 287 to 95 and up (gets close to NYC), only a slight delay in CT New Haven have I ever experienced. You will never see me on 95 from Philly over the GW in NYC. The farther away from NYC the better off you will be, those routes can be hilly and boring but scenic.

Carl, I see the problem....CW was mentioned in the same sentence . DW has a book called "The Next Exit". The 2008 version was a real asset to have, we looked a later version in 2010 and every year since and that was bad. They redesigned the layout which made it not user friendly while headed down a highway (the old versions would flow, now you jump all around the book) and went to recycled pages which made brittle. When you have a good thing you need to stick with it!

YUP, and I always ask....

If I had to choose I would have an auto inflation system installed, one like the attachment. Where it monitors your pressures and adjusts accordingly. We run them at work, my concerns in the RV industry would make me shy away. The main reason is price, the other reason you cannot adjust according to your weights across an axle. http://www.meritor.com/products/brakes/trailer_mtis/default.aspx Article from Trucking magazine with some new technology headed out soon for drive axles. http://www.truckinginfo.com/article/story/2015/01/coming-soon-inflation-systems-for-drive-axles.aspx

Bob, I also considered fabricating one from aluminum diamond plate or wood and staining it to match the cabinets in the coach.

Bob, I had the same problem with my HR/Monaco coach. I pressed the engine brake button one day and it fell through the panel . I was able to locate them from this RV supplier. http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/07.html I bought my instrument trim from them from a different year coach (in wood grain) and trimmed it to fit my layout, (I really hated the gray dull plastic dash trim that much). You will have to match it up by appearance, they do not have a way to look them up by application. I didn't care much for the original gray trim my coach came with so I had one made at a local plastics shop in wood grain, I removed my old one and they used it as a template to make me a replacement in wood grain plastic. My wiring was all labeled from Monaco and had block plugs not individual wires so that part was easy (I too am color blind) Here is the link of the finished product, if you scroll through the photos you will see the original design from Monaco.

Good choice! Safe travels

ObedB, I was actually hoping you would see this and respond with your experience. I have never been into WV with an RV or large vehicle for that matter, but I have never heard anyone say its a nice state to drive through. Large hills, tight turns and narrow roads is the only thing I have ever heard. I-78 to I-81 and south I have driven before, not bad, once they are off of I-81 I have no idea. Carl has been on I-68 and from the sounds of his post it wasn't bad. Google maps recommends I-78 to I-81 to I-64 into Lexington, since its all interstates is it still that bad? I do not worry about hills now like I did before with the old coach, but the RV they have will most likely dictate the route also.

A few things to add: Diesel Exhaust Fluid goes into the DEF tank only if equipped. If not equipped you do not need it at all. Countless times I have read where people in coaches were trying to be more "green" and were adding DEF to their Diesel FUEL tanks, this mistake will cost you thousands $$. If you do purchase a Diesel Motorhome requiring DEF make sure you do not mistake the tank for the washer fluid reservoir. They both have BLUE caps, normally the windshield washer reservoir is in the front and DEF tank is on the side closer to the engine if its a Diesel Pusher (toward the rear)......it happens. I recommend reading the manual and familiarizing yourself with your coach, I do NOT recommend asking the sales person to explain it and where to add it. We had a driver fill a DEF tank at work with Diesel fuel, that didn't go well either.

bkretvix, worse case scenario, stop and pick up some orange cones, find a local parking lot in FL and teach yourself. I found this video that also might help. this one on how to set your mirrors; This one on how your RV turns vs a car; Hop onto You tube, and watch the videos, there is a bunch of them.

I stumbled upon this website and wanted to share with everyone. It looks like a good website to locate campgrounds that can handle larger 50 amp coaches. http://www.bigrigresorts.com/index.php

Bill, to answer your question, yes. Very common in the trucking industry. The concern is exactly what you mentioned, when one has a leak they both have a leak . I would much rather have one flat than two flats, plus it takes longer to figure out which tire is the leaker also.

Carl, when we meet up this summer I will give you a tutorial . The child song "three blind mice" comes to mind, we just need another person, maybe ObedB since he managed to post photos to his that he has never seen before . That will give me time to digest the new gallery section so I can reteach myself how to use it.

Capkelly, you are correct. I have gotten better information from here than any RV dealer/tech line I have ever reached out to so far. Its scary but most only want to hire what saves them money rather than what is the best person to handle their customers, which in the end makes them loose customers. Unfortunately the bean counters don't see it and don't care. Corporate today never sees the big picture only what's in front of them.

Capkelly, I called GE before we purchased our residential fridge, they were no help in telling me if it would run on MSW or not. I called Xantrex for specs on the Inverter in our coach, they were a huge help. I was told there are different output quality levels of an MSW inverter also. Xantrex also explained that modern electronics do not like MSW, with that being said they advised me to either replace the MSW with PSW or select a more basic refrigerator without all of the electronics and gadgets. To keep my costs down we selected a energy efficient fridge with noting more than a knob inside to select for colder or warmer. I was told to compare the compressor sound when on shore power to inverter, if it louder while on inverter it will not last as long and the unit does not like the MSW inverter. I got lucky no sound difference (that I can tell) and works prefect. When the current invertor does wear out I will replace it with a PSW.

marina53. My opinion; Dicor products work the best. (link below) every RV store I have ever been to has a rack of their products. I am assuming your roof is fiberglass? Either way you will need to clean off the old cracked product, clean the surface and reapply new sealant. It sounds harder than it is. I also use a tape product called Eternabond, which works great on flat surfaces like a seam. http://dicorproducts.com/catalog/roof-products/replace/epdm-lap-sealants/ Here is a simple video link that show the basics. There is a video after that shows the tape installation. you will want to fix that ASAP before the water destroys the coach.

Thanks Rich! its worth a try.