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Everything posted by jleamont
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REPAIR SHOP POLICY / WARRANTY ON APPLIANCE
jleamont replied to eric@babin.com's topic in General Discussion
None! -
Keithl, was it a chapter you reached out to, if so which one?
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I have a 50 amp ATS to go into our coach, but the instructions were very clear, it MUST be mounted vertically, in your coach that would be an under bed rework of everything! Just not worth all of rework when a better option is out there.
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REPAIR SHOP POLICY / WARRANTY ON APPLIANCE
jleamont replied to eric@babin.com's topic in General Discussion
I also think the 8 hours is a bit extreme. I wonder if they are over estimating it sight unseen trying to protect them selves from having to come back for more money? I always over estimated then dropped it down on the invoice after completion and explained that up front. We all know how it can seem simple enough and when you open it up it becomes a mess. -
You could always use an ATS only and go with a portable unit to hang off of the CG tower.
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Update; Coach wiring had me stumped. The cord reel is a Glendinning reel, NO contacts (good thing). It unravels the cord that lays beneath it , what was odd is it physically plugs into the coach via an electrical outlet in the electrical bay, not hard wired. I am not a fan of this, but its worked for the 10 years this coach has been on the road and it shows no signs of stress. The coach is equipped with a combo ATS/Surge protector unit with a remote panel. The wiring diagram in the installation instructions is different than the way its wired, the lid on the unit shows IN and OUT, which is also backwards, in is actually OUT and vise versa. There is another wiring diagram on the inside of the ATS lid which is actually correct . All of that is what stumped me, it wasn't until the generator was manually turned on and I started to chase voltage did it dawn on me how it was supposed to work and where the defect is, then troubleshooting it was simple. The ATS is not switching from Generator to Shore when it see's power coming in on the shore line even with the generator shut down. We either need to replace it with an ATS unit only or another combo unit. Today is the day to hunt a suitable unit to be installed.
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rear brake overheated-Is it a covered item?
jleamont replied to rayin's topic in Roadside Assistance
Rayin, any update on your problem? -
I Created a new topic for the discussion where it went from a 2001 Winnebago to a 2001 Holiday Rambler and moved all of the posts that belong to the HR coach to the new post so we can keep all of the pertinent information with the appropriate coach manufacture to help with a future search. Please add all further comments to the Holiday Rambler post if related, here is the link; Thank you,
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Fantastic, that’s great news! Let us know how it all played out in the end, if possible please attach some photos.
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Is her light 120 VAC and this is all assuming you are on CG power now? I keep spare parts, a cord reel isn't one of them.
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I had a feeling it was an Imperial, that compartment is a clone to ours. 02 Imperial, let me know if you need voltage readings from a specific pair of terminals in that rear electrical bay. Where did you get the wiring diagrams ? I could use those!
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Carl, since it works on generator...fill up your coffee and hit I-70, you'll be here in 5-6 hours, its a straight line
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That's a great thought Rich! If its a reel with internal contacts (not all are designed like this) it might not be able to carry the load. You only need one strand of wire to see the proper voltage, put it under load and it all changes.
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Do you have a surge protector at the post along with one built in? You need to test the Transfer switch, specifically where the shore power comes in for proper voltage and ground. It could be the Surge unit that is built in has failed or the transfer switch. Since you can read proper voltage on the display on the interior it sounds like its seeing proper voltage, just not switching over to shore power and for that I suspect the TRC unit, but depending on how its wired it could go either way. Ours had the surge unit on the end of the cord past the cord reel right next to the transfer switch, then into the transfer switch. Do you have a meter that you can check it if you are comfortable working around High Voltage?
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josharrison, those center hub covers are usually just resting against the back of the wheel and are often loose, I wouldn't worry about it or try make it any different. Your axles are probably made by Dexter Axle co, not the RV manufacture. I am attaching a link below for parts that you can order on-line. Any small trailer dealer (utility, box or flatbed, not necessarily RV dealer) should have those parts in stock. In the past I found it cheaper and much easier to replace the brakes with a completely assembled product from Dexter, 4 bolts and 2 wires, repack the bearings and put it back together. The backing plates wear out also, so the complete unit just made sense, plus is comes with a new magnet. Brake parts on-line https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes.aspx Dexter axle website; https://www.dexteraxle.com/store
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YUP, the farthest from the steering box, if the wheel is straight it sits directly over the front axle. I never remember to turn the wheel until after I crawl under
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I always enjoyed watching his videos. Close to home being a volunteer firefighter for many years
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Rich, is there a module in 04 that interprets the TCM and ECM for the instrument cluster? If so that would be my 1st stop to inspect the connections. I know the new Freighliner has an instrument cluster module, SAM cab and SAM chassis modules that are all interfaced.
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Hopefully it holds up. I’d hate to see you have to replace the tank, I can only imagine the cost.
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Thanks Kay!
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The Waterweld (link above) calls out Potable water tanks, no mention of not bonding to polyethylene. The plastic Weld does state it will not bond to polyethylene.
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Make sure your brake lights are working. It sounds like it doesn't realize you have the service brake depressed.
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That's a tough one given the design of those sensors. An under water epoxy would be my best guess. Something like this; https://www.lowes.com/pd/j-b-weld-waterweld-white-epoxy-adhesive/3389026?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-133-_-glue-_-3389026-_-0&kpid&store_code=1729&k_clickID=go_1793096639_69778060236_346785428772_pla-303340671577_c_9007366&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-4yf7NXP4gIVQ1cNCh2eZAOlEAQYASABEgK7-vD_BwE
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Ours does the same, if the coach is in neutral and you release the parking brake with your foot off of the service brake pedal the alarm sounds. I.e. you cannot coast the coach in neutral without the alarm sounding.
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Counters are in great shape, just dull, everything else inside has a deep rich shine except those counters and it drives me nuts. We use cutting boards and cutting mats, so nothing really touches the surface other than a toaster, toaster oven and the Keurig and those all have rubber feet. I treat the interior of the coach like its fragile china, I forced myself into that habit with the first RV that was all particle board and plastic, everything you touched broke and crumbled. No need now but old habits still exist and whomever owned this unit before must have taken the same approach. when we bought it the interior looked like it was staged for sale with all sorts or decorative stuff placed all through out and secured down with Quake putty. I just touched up the wood stain two weeks ago and applied wood treatment to keep the hardwoods fresh all throughout the interior.