rayin

pspickel, made that one post and has never returned, to read replies or update his status.

Thank you for the advice. Once I thought about it, you're right. A 120VAC fridge must have the 90% efficient inverter to supply power while driving.

Somewhat; the FMCA program offers less services because it costs less. That's why the skymed programs are so very expensive, they provide many more services than either FMCA or GS. FMCA assist is included in our dues each year.

FMCA used to have a disclaimer on their Michelin discount page saying to check the price without going through the Michelin program vs using the program, as some dealers offered a better price so they didn't have to mess with the paperwork. That disclaimer was removed several years ago for reasons unknown.

I agree, my Silverado pickup does the same thing if I rush the shift from neutral, but I don't get any msg.

I would suspect a frozen water line burst.

The only correct answer is, that information will be in the owners manual under recreational towing. As a generic reply, no not yet. Technology has not tackled that use yet. It would have to be hauled on a trailer.

Several results: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=motorhome+captains+chair+seat+covers&atb=v387-1&ia=web An aside; Winnebago puts a tag under each seat with the style, material, color, etc. Perhaps yours also has a hidden ID tag.

Yes I can rebuild it, but it will take a lot of time the way my hands shake. It is a Zenith brand updraft carburetor, on a 1972 Massy Ferguson 135 farm tractor. The engine is a factory conversion of a 3 cyl Perkins engine from diesel to gasoline. And NO, it isn't a recreational vehicle, JIC anyone is curious. 🚜 I'll pick a nice warm day, setup a table next to the tractor in my RV garage and rebuild the carb after the rebuilt kit arrives. This must made me remember, I haven't yet tested the distributor for a short to ground. I've already found the wire from the voltage regulator to ignition key worn bare in one spot, stopped there and failed to do a complete search under the dash for more shorts, or even check out the regulator contacts. Years ago I bought a complete service/rebuild manual for my tractor, should have been consulting it all along.

Exterior body repairs are completed,, they forgot the damage to the dash in the starboard corner and the Xantrex inverter that was ruined by the big jar, that was an additional $7,000 suppliment to the original exterior damage estimate of $6,500. Now the body shop is waiting on Progressive to approve the additional $7K. With any luck I'll get my MH back by April. Then I take it to a different RV repair shop for a new main awning, which only takes one day, and they've had the new awning since Jan. 30..(different claim) If there is a upside, I've had full use of my RV garage for working on my farm tractor this winter. I've narrowed that down to needing a new carb. @ $500, after spending $150 to replace the ignition system-which was not the problem.

Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums! AGM batteries are still lead-acid batteries in a different form. Your inverter built-in charger will have an AGM selection which uses the ideal charging rate for them. A Renogy 200A AGM battery is $380, a Renogy 200A LifePo battery is $461. For the $81 price difference you get true 200A of usable power(AGM batteries should not be depleted below 50% for best battery life) and about twice the cycles of use from the LifePo battery. The downside is, if your MH's charger does not support charging lithium batteries, it should be replaced. Also, you must install a DC to DC charger to prevent burning up the drive engine's alternator. when driving.

Today I was told the CW deal fell through.

I think i discovered the reason behind the delay in repairing my MH at Edmondson RV: https://investor.campingworld.com/press-releases/press-release-details/2023/Camping-World-Set-to-Acquire-Edmundson-RV/default.aspx Their phone is still answered Edmondson RV when I call, but that explains the 100% personnel turnover I was told of The first of Feb.

I''m told the body work is finished. Now Progressive is contemplating whether or not they will pay the added $4,400 to replace the Xantrex inverter that was broken by the impact. Meanwhile, a different RV shop has the new replacement main awning laying around awaiting my MH's arrival, I was supposed to have it there Jan 30 for installation Jan 31. The service manager is nervous the new awning will be damaged before I can get my MH to them. The damage was April 5, 2022, so we've been without our MH for nearly 2 years now. I just may drive over(60mi) to the body shop Friday to see what's actually happened.

The Kei 650CC auto is small, cheap and comes with a manual or auto transmission. I would think the manual transmission would be flat-towable, so he must have an automatic tranny. Rather than try to tow it on a dolly backwards, I'd be looking at trailering the 1,000lb. Kei in a single axle cargo trailer and have room to carry a grill and spare LP cylinder too.l

Not likely; I doubt any club will offer a discount to join a competing club.

There are several flat-towing guides on the internet, FMCA has one. However, the final authority is the specific vehicles owners manual, under recreational towing. I cannot look it up because the Honda lookup tool requires the trim model: https://mygarage.honda.com/s/find-acura

That is simly untrue, there are many RV qualified technicians working on Coleman Mach/RVP basement units.This is perhaps the best shop for repairing ColemanMach basement units: https://shelburnerv.com/ they even have a utube video of them repairing one. First determine the model number of your unit. There is sticker on the left-end of the metal enclosure, you'll likely have to use a mirror to view it, as the space is very limited. Some units were air conditioner only, most are heat pumps.When they will not switch from cooling to heating or visa-versa, usually the thermostat is the problem. The thermostat testing procedure is in the unit service manual. This is the service manual for the most common model, 6535. When you unbolt the RR cover door and swing it up, fasten it to the rear ladder with a bungee cord. I'll stop here, I'm overloading you with information. The model# is the most important information needed right now.

I agree with Ross, when Brett was forced out it killed the discussion forums, then when Herman passed it nailed the demise. All of Brett's work is still documented on the diesel club forum, but accessing it is not easy. I think Don is now the moderator here. IMO one option to saving money is reduce personnel at HQ, as membership declines so should office staff. This will get you there, then you must sign in again. https://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,4960.msg7180.html#msg7180

I agree, Roadmaster and Blue Ox says the two hitch points (towed and MH) must be within 4" of level, I suspect all other tow bar mfgrs. follow that rule. Exceeding that rule opens the door to a hard stop causing the Jeep to over-ride or under-ride the tow bar. Level is best. I've seen many lifted and oversize tired Jeeps being towed 4-down.

DO NOT attempt to drive the MH with air springs deflated, it will ruin one or all of the driveshaft joints, Allison tailpiece bearing, and differential shaft bearing if driven any distance over 20MPH with other than turtle type starts from a dead stop. Suggest you contact Paul/ AZPETE on the Irv2 forum. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He is a Commercial Member and has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a detailed message with your system model number. He has helped others on this forum and I am sure he can help you. P.S. He is on mountain time. This will help you determine your model # With your model# you can download the service and troubleshooting manual from the internet.

Just for grins; disconnect the neg, cable instead, after 3 hrs observe results. Electrons flow from neg. to pos.

A humming sound vs a ticking sound in first post; humm. I sometimes hear a sound like a small electric motor running (a hum) after turning off my engine; I suspect my sound is coming from the 12v vacuum pump motor for the heat/air switches under the dash still running, but haven't ever had the opportunity to fully investigate. The last thing that happens after turning off the ignition key is, the heater/air controls auto-switch door positions to defrost. I think this pdf has the explanation buried somewhere within: https://newpar.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env99NEWMAR/html/images/SS2013EVEQUILTRAIN.pdf

The recreational towing section of the owners manual is straight-forward, sounds like a good towed. The neg. battery cable must be disconnected, and a HD battery disconnect from Amazon would make that easy-peazy.

with no more information, I 2nd Five's reply. Details of when, where, engine running?, A/C running, etc. would really help with answering.