rayin

Don the electric motor will/should run regardless if the cylinder is connected on either end. First thing to do is as desertdeals requested, test the 12V motor for proper operation. If it runs you are left with mechanical breakdown-re' the loose screws you found.

FWIW, Meritor makes an air silencer for the air dryer system, and it's not a wooden box.

X2! When water gets into the air brake system things get expensive-and dangerous quickly. If chassis does not have automatic water ejectors, the manual tank drains should be pulled weekly for a MH.

HapptyHobos. Good Sam ESC does not have their own inspectors, they have contracted independent RV inspectors in every major city. IMO you did the right thing by contacting "Jamie" and persisting in obtaining satisfaction. It's like the old addage, "The wheel that squeaks the loudest gets the most grease." We also had a GS ESC policy on our MH. Overall we were quite satisfied with our results, money well-spend in our case. It is Cummins NOT Cummings. You may have been thinking of Senator Cummings.

AndyShane, you are indeed very lucky. That could have very easily became a fire instead of just melting/arcing a hole in the copper tubing filled with oil. Update/correction. I replied to andyshane, but Richard was my intended quote.

As I said, the only problem I ever had was the copper gaskets in the Duramax engine. I discovered the leak when the crankcase was full of diesel fuel.

There is something terribly wrong with these pictures; They are there, I'm here.

As Paul Harvey always said, " and that's the rest of the story".

I have not experienced that with any of my diesel-powered engines, had a 1973 Case diesel tractor, and this MH running on today's diesel fuel ever since ULSD and biodiesel were commercially-available. The only problem I've had was with my '02 Duramax diesel engine, biodiesel reacted with the copper seals in the high-pressure fuel lines underneath the valve covers, GM replaced them under a TSB.

I would agree, broken or detached gear mechanism. BTW, the piviot points should be lubricated monthly.

Yep, dot i's cross t's. It is a contract, and worded as such. I bought an extended service contract with our MH from CW, studied it before signing, as I would with any contract.

Tim, if I remember correctly, there is an air bleed on top of the 'stat housing.

Carl, Joe, that is the GS introductory price for new members, first year only, price almost doubles 2 year. I let my GS ERS lapse when I bought the FMCA/Saferide policy, GS denied my attempt to enroll at the introductory price last week. I have a, IMO, good deal with FMCA/Saferide, I'll stick with it.

I found out when I opened this thread, must have missed the information if it was in the magazine. Contact Skymed and request a quote for their medical assist program. Here is the Good Sam medical assist fee chart, which is an addition to their membership fee. OTOH, like some do with the ESC plans, you may self-insure.

Two entirely different scenarios Richard, once you submit a water sample for testing to a lab, legalities demand a follow-up and report to the state body governing such. I agree with you that the majority of RV'ers sanitize their fresh water system from an over-abundance of caution, or because others scared them into the act. I cannot recall ever reading about anyone getting sick from consuming water from their RV. reference: https://waterandhealth.org/safe-drinking-water/drinking-water/drinking-water-chlorine-odor/

When using chlorine/bleach, a simple sniff-test is all that is necessary, if you smell bleach in water at the faucet after an hour, chlorine residual is present; this residual means the chlorine was not completely consumed killing bacteria/germs, thus germs were eliminated. This has ran its course, I'll stop here.

They do have a LOT of used MH parts! All sales are final; they do not accept returns, nor offer refunds, for parts ordered. They do state parts are tested and verified in working order. I was on their website this morning looking at a used XantreX 2012 inverter/charger, their price $1,4xx.xx. I found a new one on ebay(full warranty) for $1,299 W/ free shipping. Check around before buying.

OK, please explain how 1 pint of 3% H2 O2 diluted into 15G of water(result is a 0.00025% solution) can disinfect anything, since a 3% total solution is the absolute minimum to disinfect tank and drinking water according to the CDC (see link in my previous reply). How does that 15G get in contact with the remaining empty tank to disinfect that? To maintain a 3% solution you must buy 120, 1 pint bottles of H2O2, which = 15G In order to use 100% H2O2 (impossible to buy) to dilute into 15G of water, it would still take 57.6 oz to create a 3% solution.

We've been through this before, you will have to completely fill your fresh water tank with 3% hydrogen peroxide, and soak for a minimum of 150 minutes,, to kill every bacteria in the fresh water system.https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html No drinking water treatment courses I am aware of, to prepare for taking a state exam for licensing for a water treatment operator, address using H2 O2. How do you know your system is sanitized without continual lab testing? Unlike Chlorine residual levels, there is not a simple positive way to test for residual H2O2. Factor in the porous plastic tank and plumbing are harder to insure contact with every surface, and you see the difficulty involved. That is the only reference I can find that even mentions using H2 O2 for disinfecting drinking water, the following from the CDC,EPA and WHO does not mention H2 O2 for disinfecting drinking water: https://www.who.int/household_water/research/technologies_intro/en/ https://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/hygiene/om/linkingchap6.pdf https://www.epa.ie/pubs/advice/drinkingwater/Disinfection2_web.pdf

OK got it! I just went by what I found on the internet: https://www.mhsrv.com/1996-holiday-rambler-navigator-with-slide-used-diesel-pusher-tx-i1201791 UPDATE: I surfed the internet for a while, I cannot find a HR Navigator with a gas engine.

There are 2 options for your diesel fuel, #1 is have the fuel "polished", any large boat shop should have the proper equipment, it's expensive, which leads to #2 simply have your fuel tank pumped out and cleaned, old fuel disposed of; given today's diesel fuel prices it may be less money than polishing.

I remember reading of this issue on a different RVing discussion forum several years ago, sadly my memory fails at that point, and I do not remember the outcome.

Website doesn't work for me, and I refuse to turn off my security programs to see it that helps. Same thing happens with links on another rving website. Oh well, I know all about myself anyway. Some Army vets have a problem decoding my MOSC though, 11B5MX.

Mine acts the same. one click, how does it act when you select automatic leveling?

Yep, a dirty, corroded flame sensor can cause a big headache. I'm in the process of cleaning my water heater flame sensor now, non-use allowed it to corrode enough to block the 4 milivolt signal to the control board.