richard5933

Assuming that you're using browser in the phone to view this forum, pretty much the same way as with a PC or laptop. When you click on 'reply' you will get the box to enter your text. Below that is a paper clip icon with a link reading 'Click to choose files'. If you tap on that link you can either choose a photo from your gallery or take a new one with the camera.

If the battery in the compartment with the level system is the 'other battery' then which battery was replaced when the rig was purchased? If Carl is correct and the battery over the level system is the chassis start battery, then this is the battery that needs attention if the problem is cranking the engine. Where was the battery located which was replaced? Photos?

I've got a Samsung Galaxy - there is an option to mirror the screen to the USB output. I just plug the cord from the phone into a USB port on the TV. It's easy since I have a Samsung phone and a Samsung TV, but I believe that it's also possible to do this with other brands of TVs. I used to do this by using a USB-to-HDMI converter when I had a different brand of phone. https://www.samsung.com/uk/support/tv-audio-video/what-is-screen-mirroring-and-how-do-i-use-it-with-my-samsung-tv-and-samsung-mobile-device/ I also bring along a Google Chromecast. The latest version of the Chromecast allows direct streaming from a device to the Chromecast without going through a wifi first. This works, but it took me a few tries and re-reading the directions to do it the first time. Much easier to just plug the phone into the TV. If you bring along your laptop, you can also usually just use the TV as an external monitor - sometimes this works through a USB-to-HDMI converter and other times you need a laptop with it's own HDMI output.

You're not alone. We also only have an OTA antenna for television. If we want to watch something else, I'll stream it through an app on my phone and mirror the screen to the tv.

How many chassis batteries does this motor home have? Any chance you could post a photo of the chassis battery bank as well as the house battery bank? Might help us help you identify the problem.

Are you comfortable working around electrical devices? Familiar with a multimeter? If yes to both of those, you can test your theory by checking the input voltage to the circuit breaker.

See page 88, right-hand image. There is also a coolant drain shown on the engine exploded view, page 77, item 24.

Only possible downside to going to a larger pump like that would be the existing wiring/fuse. Larger pump = large current draw = possible need for upgraded wiring. Not necessarily a problem, but confirm existing wire sizing and fuse rating before just installing a new pump.

3.0 GPM is not much. All the pressure in the world isn't going to feel like much coming out of the tap if the flow rate is not high enough. Have you confirmed that the pump is actually outputting the 3.0 GPM at the pump's output?

Take lots of photos before removing the old inverter/charger, and carefully mark all the wires so you know where they were connected on the old unit. Seems like we get a few "where does this wire go" threads every season, so it doesn't hurt to take the time to make notes first. If the new inverter/charger is the same capacity as the old one, then nothing should need to be changed regarding wiring. The new unit might use a different temperature sensor on the batteries, so double check that. Also, like mentioned above you might need to swap the control panel and the connecting wiring (unless the new & old use are the same brand and use the same control panel.)

I agree with the previous comments about the date code - if the dealer can't get you fresh tires then you need a new dealer. Unless, of course, he's going to pro-rate the price of the tires based on how much of the life was spent wasting away on a shelf somewhere. Balancing? If you are going to rotate tires get them all balanced. Some coaches can have the tires rotated so this is important. We will get all ours balanced - for me anything that can help reduce drive line vibration is a benefit, even if I have to pay more for it.

If you have a commercial truck repair center in your town they can probably run a test on a sample while you wait, at least for water. In my experience, milky oil often indicates water mixing with the oil.

Is the coach parked level? According to the manual for your coach you need to be within 3 degrees of level side-to-side and 6 degrees front-to-back. Remember, like Brett mentioned, that these refrigerators will cool starting with the freezer compartment and then move to the refrigerator. Are the fins at the back of the refrigerator box getting cold? Have you checked to be sure that the vents leading to the outside are open and clear of debris?

I had great success repainting the black plastic trim on a VW Golf years ago. Scrubbed it clean using Simple Green and a mild scrub pad, let it dry thoroughly, then carefully taped & masked the entire end of the car around where I was going to spray. Prep took lots longer than the actual painting. If you are taping around complicated curves and such, narrow blue tape is much easier to bend and curve than wide tape. I use the narrow tape first to go around everything, and then use wider tape to hold on the masking sheets. Uses more tape, but much easier to get the taping done neatly. I used spray cans from the box store - if I remember it was either satin or flat black in a can from Krylon specifically designed for use on plastics. Other companies make a similar product. Biggest thing to remember is to apply in multiple thin coats, not one thick coat. Read the directions for re-apply times carefully. Wait the minimum time, then spray another coat. Repeat until things look like you want. Don't wait longer than the max time for re-coating though. I learned the hard way that if you wait too long with some of the spray paints you'll lift/bubble the earlier coats. If you miss the window for re-coating, you'll have to wait the full curing time before re-applying another coat or risk problems (BTDT). You might need to experiment with when to remove the tape. On some paints you have to remove just after the paint is dry to the touch, on others it's better to wait until the paint is cured. Do it at the wrong time and you might lift the edge of the new paint. When I got done, the bumper and the grill parts looked great and from 5 feet away you couldn't tell anything was touched. YMMV.

Welcome! A little more information would be helpful. Are you looking for a dehumidifier for times when you're on the coach or when it's parked/stored? If you're having problems with moisture building when you are in the coach, it might be a good idea to check on the various systems to be sure that everything is working properly. The a/c unit should be capable of removing moisture while it's running in the cooling season, and the heating system typically dries out the air in the heating season. If there is a problem with moisture build up during the heating season, I'd want to double check the venting on the furnace. A by product of combustion is moisture, and a poorly-vented furnace can dump lots of moisture into the interior of the coach (along with CO gas). Same goes for those vent-free LP heaters - they dump lots of moisture. If all your systems are working properly and you suddenly find lots of moisture, then it's time to start searching for the leak to see where the moisture is coming in. Please let us know more about what you're asking so we can better help you.

You might want to check with the FMCA office on this. Here's a link to a description of how the billing portion of the program works. https://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/HowBillingWorks.pdf Payment is made through Michelin directly. One key thing to remember is that your credit card must be registered with Michelin before you buy the tires.

Great suggestion on using the whip hose to inflate tires. Have you seen one that will work on a rear dual valve stem which faces towards the wheel? Right now I use an inflator similar to that shown in photo #1, and I use both sides of the air chuck to get it on all my valve stems.

When you talk to the DMV, there looks to be some type of 'Application for Refund' form available on the California DMV website. Seems like this might get you a refund on the portion of the fees/taxes you paid for the time period after the point you move the vehicle out of California. Looks somewhat complicated, but certainly worth asking about.

Does California allow for partial-year registration? Here is Wisconsin we can get tags by the quarter for heavy vehicles.

You're right on that one. If someone needs/wants a 12v compressor, better to use airline extensions than trying to build a 12v extension cord.

We carry a small (1.5-gallon) Porter Cable electric compressor. It will run off shore power or generator and will pump up to 125psi. What I really like about this pump is that the pressure only drops to about 100psi before the pump kicks back in, which lets us top off our tires pretty easily since we keep them at 95 psi. I was going to get a 12vdc pump, but had trouble finding one with a high enough max pressure and a high enough flow rate to be worthwhile. You're tires are a bit smaller than ours, so you could probably make do with one of the better quality 12vdc units. I've also carry an air hose to use the coach's engine's compressor to fill tires, but that requires running the engine. I like to fill tires before the sun starts to hit the tires, and that's usually too early for starting the engine. Nice to have the ability to do so if necessary though. I like redundancy.

To be up to date with this thread, I guess I should update our toad status. We still don't have a toad, but we did add a pair of folding electric bikes which we carry in a bay. Give us an easy way to get to the pub or cafe down the road, pick up a few things at the store, or just to tool around. We can cruise at about 20 mph for a couple of hours before needing to charge. We used these on our last trip in the fall to the east coast and they proved to be really handy, especially when we spent a few days at a TT campground outside Lancaster PA. We were able to get into town pretty easily and spend the day seeing the sights. As long as we're healthy enough for these to fill the need we'll stick with them. After that, we'll re-evaluate and change our plans as needed.

Do you have a manual battery disconnect near the batteries that might have been switched off by someone inadvertently? When you checked the battery water level, did you put a voltmeter on the batteries to check the actual voltage (with the 120v power OFF)? I'd start at the source (batteries) and confirm that you have 12v, then work my way down the system one switch point at a time to see where the problem is. If your charger is working and your batteries are good, you should definitely have over 12v at the batteries with no shore or generator power connected.

Do they have a corporate office or something similar?

Assuming that we're talking about something like Eternabond Tape, the answer is maybe, IMHO. My preference is to get the caulking between the parts being sealed. For example, when installing a new vent on the roof I want to get caulking (whether from a tube or caulking tape) between the flange of the fan and the roof. I'll then apply self-leveling caulking over the top to seal the screws and seams. Kind of a belt and suspenders operation. Eternabond tape could be used in place of the self-leveling caulking, but I don't think it gets into the cracks/crevices as well. There are times when I've had to reseal something or repair a small leak that developed, and in those cases I've applied the sealant on the outside after thoroughly cleaning/drying the area. For situations like this, something Eternabond Tape can be used. But, I try to make sure that the surface under the tape is as smooth as possible to give the tape a good chance to take hold. If there are globs of old caulking or if the surface looks cratered like Swiss cheese there is little chance that the tape will be able to make a good seal. Bottom line, if there is a way to force caulking INTO the crack/leak/crevice I'll do that. No way that tape will be able to penetrate the same way. But, in a pinch Eternabond tape can be a real help.