richard5933

A lot of guys in the bus conversion side of things have gone away from battery isolators and just run continuous-duty-rated solenoids to bridge the batteries for charging while on the road. Some even incorporate relays to have the solenoid work automatically. Too many problems possible with the isolators, and they tend to have a voltage drop across them. I went another way and use a Sterling battery-to-battery charger to charge the house batteries from the main engine alternator while underway. It can send up to 70 amps to the 12v house battery bank.

When you live in a semi-rural area with lots of outbuildings around, there is really no way to eliminate mice and rodents totally. The best we can hope for is that they stay in the barn or outbuildings and away from the house and our coach. The coach gets parked behind the barn in the winter.

Maybe the covers trap enough heat to attract he mice. I haven't had problems with our coach parked in the cold. Our first one was stored indoors by the previous owner, and I believe that's where the mice got in.

Block every opening possible. Use copper wool or stainless steel wool to block smaller openings. An opening as small as 1/4" is larger enough for small mice. Small mice become large mice. Small mice become lots of mice. Exclusion is primary. Then we put lots and lots of sticky traps in the bays, in the generator area, and in various spots inside the coach. traps get put in any place I could imagine a curious mouse trying to make a comfortable nest, as well as on the pathways that they would have to take. Goal with the traps is to keep the critters from doing any damage if they do get in. I make weekly checks on the traps to see what's going on. Just have to be sure I don't accidentally step on a trap. Our first coach had a great generator. When we took it in for inspection/service shortly after buying the coach it was discovered that the control box inside the generator was destroyed by mice. How it continued to run and not burn up the coach is a miracle. Since then we've been careful to keep the critters at bay.

Sometimes it's necessary to raise the jug of RV antifreeze above the level of the pump to get it to start the siphon.

For anyone with sensitive electronic equipment (like amateur radios) keep in mind that some LED fixtures can cause unwanted interference. Usually not an issue, but if you install LED lighting and suddenly start having static or other unusual noise coming from a radio or television it might be the lighting. Apparently not all manufacturers have fully read up on proper shielding.

Of course, if you have the orange travel alert showing, it might be wise to also check to be certain that there is not a problem in the brakes themselves (like a broken brake shoe) which allows excessive travel.

In reading through the RV 770 information from Garmin, it appears that this newer model does have the ability to enter the propane tanks in the profile for warning when they need to be shut off or if approaching a restricted area. Routing would also avoid such an area if enabled.

I have the Garmin 760, and to my knowledge there is no way to add propane status to the vehicle profile. I've never had it offer any warnings for propane restrictions either, even when going through roads which had a restriction. I've been reading about this, and apparently the propane profile is limited to the dezl 760, and only when operating in truck mode. That may or may not have changed in the 770 versions.

Wouldn't that just close off the outside air from coming in? If there is hot coolant circulating through the heater core it would still be there and still shed heat into the interior of the coach.

It also looks like there are limitations to the payout amounts, perhaps less than the amount that would be needed to get one tire changed/repaired. Certainly less than if there are two with a problem. Anyone able to find the details of the policy? I couldn't find anything on this side of the payment page.

Some of the gauge clusters have the 'wiring' done by using a printed circuit board, but the board is nothing more than a flexible piece of Mylar or thin plastic. I had similar problems on a vehicle once when the point where the harness plugged into the Mylar circuit board had worked loose. There wasn't much back there to hold things together, so it was easy to see how it had come loose. And what Herman said - check all the harness connectors in the area and all the ground connections.

Can you tell us a bit more of what parts you need? If the front of the rig got hit, those parts should be easy to get from the chassis manufacturer. If it's the sides, then we're talking about bay doors and some supporting materials, and I've seen these made from whole cloth in shops. The rear cap could be a problem since it's probably molded fiberglass, but I just can't imagine that they don't have one that can be sent. Perhaps it's time to have a lawyer send a demand letter. Once a lawyer is involved, it might be more worth their while to get the parts shipped than pay legal bills.

Putting a ball valve would enable you to totally shut off the hot coolant flow to the heater, but it will also shut it off to the defroster. Lots of people do this in bus conversions, and then suddenly find themselves in need of hot air in the defroster, which is not possible till they pull over and manually open the valve. I've had situations more than a few times where a sudden temperature change caused the windshield to fog up quickly, and having the ability to blast it with hot air in a hurry can be a life saver. If your system is what I'm thinking of, the vacuum system is either going to control a valve in the water flow or possibly a flapper door which diverts the airflow across or around the heater core, depending on the setting at the dash. My suggestion would first be to see if it's something as simple as a vacuum line which has worked loose or possibly a vacuum leak from a split end on a hose or fitting. If you have a flapper door it might have a leaf or other debris in it causing it to not fully close/open. If you decide to install a manual valve, there are options other than a ball valve under the hood. You can also install a cable-operated valve like I've got in my step van. The inside end looks like an old-fashioned choke knob, and the other end connects to one of these https://www.millsupply.com/cable-controled-water-shut-off-valve-54553.php?p=97521 This solution will require a bit more installation effort, but it will allow you to retain full functionality of the temperature settings from inside the cab year-round. Here's one example of the cable that you'd use inside to control the valve: https://www.millsupply.com/cable-54062.php?p=97809 These valve are available with 5/8" or 3/4" fittings, and they can be ordered with push-to-open or pull-to-open. Install is as simple as cutting the heater hose feeding the heater core and inserting the valve with a couple of clamps. To avoid having to drain the entire system, get yourself a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-145-Hose-Pinch-Pliers/dp/B000O3NACS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1541627794&sr=8-7&keywords=hose+clamp+pliers The pliers will allow you to pinch off the hose on either side of where the valve is going. You can also use the pliers to test the hypothesis. Clamp off the heater hose to the heater core and see if the air still blows hot at the dash. Also, double check to see if the problem is caused by the proximity of an exhaust pipe, exhaust manifold, or other heat-producing item to the air vent. If it's always done this, then that might be what's happening and it would suck to go through the trouble of installing a fix only to still have the problem. If the problem has only come up recently, then this probably wouldn't be the issue.

What does the insurance company say? If you were hit, then it's all on them to make it right. Does your state have any time requirements for repairs? If not, then I'd push them to provide another similar vehicle to use in the meantime - since that would be impossible for them to do without great expense, then maybe it would give them incentive to push Forrest River for the parts or to come to another solution which you were agreeable to.

I know that it's preferable to get new parts from the manufacturer, but perhaps the body shop can get the parts you need from an RV salvage yard? Might be hard to find what you need, especially for a model like the Dynamax, but it's worth a try.

Sounds like they have a personal property tax on MHs in Montana. Our registration is under $120/year regardless of value.

Can't wait till we get off this LED craze. Or until they can make them with a quality high enough to last for a reasonable time. Or make them in a way so that they can be replaced when they go bad. Or... It's only been a few years since they came on the scene, and manufacturers are so enamored with them that they are installing them all over the place and making them non-replaceable. A good example is the license plate lamps in some new cars. The LED cannot be replaced, so when they go bad the entire fixture has to be replaced. Cost is high, and it's a terrible waste or resources. I hope that the OP is able to get his handle re-lit without having to replace the whole thing. If you get it apart and replace the LED, please post some photos so that others can follow your lead in the future.

That's okay. You guys in Texas get to enjoy for a few months now. Come summer time when you guys are stressing over having enough BTUs to stay cool we'll be sleeping comfortably with the windows open and the breeze blowing. When things work out, we each get to choose our struggles and our triumphs. I spent a few decades in Texas and other southern states - long enough to decide that the heat wasn't a struggle I wanted to deal with any more.

Maybe I missed something... OP was about tire safety after a tire has become severely deflated. A few people responded with questions/comments about split rims, which were not in the OP. The first post in this thread was about the potential for damage to a tire which has been severely deflated and the importance of inspection after that event. Others seem to have assumed that this was about split rim wheels. I'm not the one that introduced split rim wheels into this thread, but I did respond to that once it was brought up with additional information, including a video that shows both split rim AND modern tires exploding. The video even mentions some of the same reasons for danger as mentioned in the OP. The facts is it doesn't matter if the tire is mounted on a modern or a split rim wheel. If it is damaged there is a danger of explosion as it's being filled. There are also split rim wheels in use, as we speak, on motor homes. Mainly they are found on vintage rigs, but they're out there. Just because your vintage rig didn't have split rim wheels on it doesn't mean none do. At the moment I feel like I'm under attack for agreeing with the OP and for bringing in additional information.

Some, but not all of them. Please look again. At minute mark 0:25 there is an automotive type tire/rim on the machine. Why is this so controversial? https://fox6now.com/2018/09/23/wisconsin-man-killed-when-tire-being-pumped-hit-his-head/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1854067 https://www.nbcdfw.com/news/local/Tarrant-County-Man-Dies-After-Tire-He-Was-Inflating-Explodes-466703413.html https://www.wmur.com/article/1-dead-1-injured-after-tire-explodes-at-salem-auto-shop/5206922

The OP didn't mention using a cage for split rim wheels. He was talking about a tire which was severely deflated and possibly had interior/hidden damage. No mention of split rims, just that if it's discovered that one is driving on a tire 20% or more deflated to have it checked by a trained/certified tire inspector. Once inspected inside and out, it should be inflated inside a cage. This is so that in the event there was hidden damage and the tire explodes upon refilling no one is injured. Driving on a deflated tire can damage the sidewall in ways that cannot be easily detected. All that said, many earlier motor homes were built with split rim wheels. Many of them are still on the road. Especially with the recent interest in restoring vintage rigs, this is something that people should be aware of. Here's a great video which shows why use of a tire cage is important. Note that most of the tires exploding in this video are being mounted on modern, single piece wheels.

Gasoline engines provide braking action by their nature just by keeping the transmission in gear and taking your foot off the throttle pedal. Not the same in a Diesel. Diesel engines on their own will provide very little braking action, which is why people add either an engine brake (Jacobs Brake is one brand), an exhaust brake, or a transmission retarder. Engine speed in a gasoline engine is controlled by a throttle plate which restrict air flow through the engine. In older vehicles the throttle plate was in the carburetor, in newer cars it's in the fuel injection system. Close the air supply into an engine and a manifold vacuum is created as the engine struggles to pull air against the closed throttle plate. This is what produces the majority of the braking action in a gasoline engine. A Diesel engine controls engine speed by modulating the fuel supply. There is no way to create an intake vacuum because there is no throttle plate. An engine brake (Jacobs Brake, Jake Brake) works by physically changing the way the cylinder valves work while the system is engaged. The engine is basically turned into a huge air compressor, and the noise heard when drivers engage the Jake Brake is the sudden exhausting of air from the cylinders as this process works. An exhaust brake works by creating a restriction in the exhaust system - similar to the way a gasoline engine creates braking action except on the other end of the system. Instead of restricting air flow into the engine, it restricts air flow out. Can't get air out and suddenly the engine is fighting against itself as it tries to push more air out the back end. Not all engines are built to handle the increased pressures created by an exhaust brake, which is why the OP asked his question. Retarders are devices used to slow a vehicle by adding friction or hydraulic pressure inside the transmission to work against forward motion of the vehicle. Various system are used by different manufacturers.

Sorry to hear that your DW isn't doing well. Hopefully next year will be better. I used to mark the start and end of the winter season by when the rubber mats replaced the carpet mats in my car. Now I mark it by when the water is replaced by pink antifreeze. Seems like it happened much earlier this year than last.

Split rims can still be found on some older rigs on the road. Some vintage bus conversion still have them, as do some skoolies. Not a lot, but they are still out there. That said, you don't need a split rim to have a sudden and catastrophic failure of a large tire like those found on some class A motor homes. A quick YouTube search and you'll be able to see for yourself. My suspicion is that many of drivers these videos would have been wise to heed tireman9's warning above.