richard5933

Have you thought about having it driven instead of transported? Or, maybe that's what you're talking about. You can search the FMCA directory for members listed as Pinch Hit drivers. Usually this is for emergency situations from what I read. However, there are lots of members in Florida listed as a pinch hit driver. Maybe you can just post a notice on this forum that you are looking for someone to drive your rig to Nevada, and then work out something that's mutually beneficial for you both. I bet there is someone that would enjoy the trip.

In this instance there were apparently many, many warnings prior to the last turn-off point. I have had a similar problem coming out of Sioux Falls SD. Got to the last stop sign at the top of a steep climb up from the falls park area and couldn't get started again without burning out the clutch. I called the police, and they sent a squad car to block traffic while I backed down the hill. Seemed like I wasn't the first driver this has happened to, as the officer was aware of what to do. Needless to say, it wasn't my best day driving and I had to just admit I screwed up not better checking the route before driving. I'm quite sure that they would rather send a squad (or two) to help a driver back out of a bad situation rather than send a search and rescue team out to look for bodies in the river. Sometimes it's better to swallow ones pride and call for help.

If you watch the video of the bus crossing carefully, you'll see that he clips the horizontal yellow warning sign with the roof of the bus. Can't believe that a driver missed all those signs and warnings. Almost seems like he did this on purpose knowing the risk. Just a supposition on my part.

Here's a newscast about the incident.

Not every problem which causes oil-coolant crossover can be found with a pressure test, especially problems which happen only when the engine is being operated. They did a pressure test - no problem found. Yet, you still have a problem. Not many choices here - either take it back to them to have another crack at it or find another shop to get a second opinion. No matter how good a shop is, there are times they miss things. As already mentioned, there is a long list of things which can cause the problem. Many of the possibilities in this situation are expensive to repair, so hopefully it will turn out to be something external which can be easily repaired.

Here's an example of what NOT to do. Check out the bridge sag as this bus crosses over. Would never want to be in this situation with a heavy Class A. Bridge has a 10 ton weight limit. https://www.nwahomepage.com/news/bus-over-bridge-beaver-arkansas_20181015160613/1525287187

Our homeowner's policy is through a company that only writes policies in the Midwest. They don't have nearly as many of these catastrophic events so their rates are more reasonable. Unfortunately, they don't write RV policies. It seems that most of the companies that do write RV policies are national companies, and as there are more (and larger) of these catastrophic events rates will only go in one direction - up.

Could the damage not be from the DOD but from someone who bought one of the high-powered LASER pointers available overseas? An acquaintance travels to China frequently, and reports that at one time it was possible to purchase a small blue-light LASER pointer that was strong enough to light objects on fire from a distance. These devices would possibly be able to cause damage like this. There are news reports of planes being forced to land due to LASER pointer incidents. I've got a LASER engraver, and the marks it makes on glass look like what's in the photos. There is a kiosk in the local mall that sells glass blocks with 3D images inside which have been etched from the inside out by two intersecting LASER beams. I don't doubt that the damage was done by a LASER. Who caused the damage is the big mystery to me. Was a police report ever filed about this? The Federal agencies have actually had success located and arresting people in the airplane incidents, so if the authorities were not notified they should be.

You purchased 3 new batteries - were these all coach (house) batteries or both the coach and the engine start battery? If you did not change the engine start battery, then that could very well have been the one that failed.

The single a/c unit on this coach has gone bad multiple times. Something is wrong here, and I'm and I'm wondering if it is a problem with the install. Could have been done wrong at the factory, who knows. While I love to blame the manufacturer as much as the next guy, this many units failing one after the other really says that there is something wrong in the RV itself. This is a ducted a/c from what I can see online. Was the ducting done properly to allow for proper air flow to/from the a/c unit? Perhaps a shorting or failing thermostat is causing the unit to run constantly or fight against itself. Perhaps a loose connection on the 120v wiring causing a low-voltage situation. But, something is not right here as there is no good reason for this many units to go bad one after the other. OR... There could be a serious problem with the Coleman Mach 8 a/c units. I just did a quick look on Google and apparently there are many entries about this particular unit. Seems like others are having repeat failures as well. IF everything checks out in the coach itself and all wiring is in good shape, then I'd vote for bailing on the Coleman and putting in something else. We had an Atwood Air Command with heat pump on our coach last year and it seemed to work fine. I'm sure that there are many other options as well.

Could this be part of the problem? If the trailer was only loaded to about 50% of load capacity but the tires were inflated to their max pressure, they'd be over-inflated in my book. I'm not an expert on tires, but I have to ask what the implications are of running tires at their max pressure, specifically as it relates to the damage detailed above.

What about a faulty thermostat or a short in the wiring (caused by a bad connection, bad wire, or staple/screw penetrating through where it shouldn't be)? Not sure how any of the failed units ran long enough to have their filters clog up. The rig is only 3 years old. If the a/c is ducted, could there be a restriction in the ducting which is reducing airflow to below the critical flow point? Or possibly something was installed backwards from the factory during the initial a/c install which caused the flow restriction? If so, I bet that all the subsequent installs followed suit and never looked for that kind of problem.

With a problem like this you might do better just going to a commercial tire shop. They'll be less expensive than Ford and will get you in much quicker than Jayco. From your description it sounds like you might need the stem replaced. Check with the tire place while you're there - they may very well have a used wheel that you can use for your spare.

Our insurance covers the repairs in full if they are less than a certain size. Usually if they are less than the size of a quarter repair is possible, but that applies to damage due to gravel or other debris. I'm thinking that if the crack is due to a stress fracture it probably won't be repairable. Those cracks usually develop from out outer edge in.

I'm going to blame autocorrect. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. 😉 (But thanks - I've corrected my original post and added the word to the autocorrect dictionary.)

Welcome to the forum. I agree with the others - if someone wants in they'll get in. I've read many more problems happening in storage locations than when the coach is out and about, so choose your storage options carefully. When we're traveling, we have locks on our storage bays and a deadbolt on the entry door. That's it. We don't worry about the small mechanical access doors or the coach's battery & engine door. But, we also don't park the coach anywhere we wouldn't park our car. When we're in the coach we use the deadbolt to prevent anyone easily opening the entry door, and we have a motion sensor light over the entry door which is solar charged so that it comes on even with the batteries disconnected. The apps which let you know temp and such are handy if you're worried about a pet in the coach. A suggestion - please add a bit more information to your profile such as first name, location, ect. Also, turn off the caps lock - many people see that as screaming when used in an online forum. There are lots of other threads in the FMCA forum about this subject, so try searching around a bit using different search terms. Again - welcome and here's to many years of joy in your new coach.

Thanks for the extra information - that helps eliminate some of the common outside issues as the cause. If I understand correctly, you've got three a/c units on this coach. Two of them have been fine the whole time but one of the three units on the roof has failed three times. If this is the case, I'd really be suspicious of something specific to that unit's installation which is causing the problem. Could the thermostat be bad and causing a problem (malfunctioning so as to cause the a/c unit to short cycle or run too much, etc?) Has the thermostat for this unit been replaced along with the a/c unit? Perhaps there is a staple or screw somewhere in the wall that is intermittently causing a short in the wiring? The same unit failing over and over really screams that something is wrong specific to that install. However, if you're saying that each of the three different a/c units on the roof have each failed separately (not the same one over and over again), then if this was my coach I'd be shopping for a different brand a/c unit. Most brands/models are interchangeable and mount in a standard 14x14 opening so unless there is something unique about the way they're installed on your model coach I would think that you could try something different.

I can't speak for the laws in Florida, but here's how I would handle it: First thing would be to request a copy of the police report, assuming that the shop reported the accident. Then I'd get copies of the shop's insurance documents. If I could get the name/number of the shop's insurance agent, I'd give them a call and see if you can light a fire under them. Call your insurance company. If you have comprehensive and collision coverage, they should be able to authorize the repairs up to the limits of your policy. This will be the quickest way to get the repairs moving. It will then be up to them to go after the shop and the shop's insurance company through a process called subrogation. You may or may not have to pay your deductible until your company is able to collect from the other party. If they are successful, then you'll get your deductible back. Also, if they are successful in collecting the claim should not count against you. If they don't collect, it will be up to the terms of your policy and state law if this counts against you. Be aware through this process though, you are talking about a 14-15 year old coach. No matter how good the condition and how well it's been maintained, the total cost of the repairs might cross a threshold and cause the vehicle to be declared totaled. The insurance companies place far less value on vehicles of this age than owners typically do, and you might have a fight on your hands to convince them to repair it if that's what you want. Or, they might offer you a buy-out that satisfies you. About the reduced value... In Wisconsin there is case law about this. It's called 'diminished value' and the party at fault can be required to reimburse the injured party for the loss in resale value. It's part of the process of making the injured party 'whole' after the loss event. When my car was rear ended a couple of years ago I was able to collect about $1500 for diminished value. It was, however, quite a challenge since the insurance company wanted proof of the loss of value. I was lucky enough to be able to get a used car sales manager of the dealership to quote a value based on the post-collision value, which I compared against the guaranteed buyback program value. In the case of your coach this may be more difficult. Whatever you can collect for diminished value will also be subject to Florida statutes and case law, as well as the limits of the policy which is paying the claim. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to send a PM if you have specific questions. Welcome to the forum - hopefully you'll have many more joyful things to post about in the future.

Do you have a surge protector & low-voltage protector when you're on shore power? Did these failures all occur while in the same campground? If so, any of your neighbors having a similar problem? Any other problems in the electrical system other than the a/c units that might be an indication that the problem is more global than the a/c systems themselves? Any loose wires/connections on the remote wired thermostat (if you have one?) Just a few scattered thoughts about this.

One of those threads that makes me happy we don't have sensors on our tanks. In this case I think that simple is better. Fresh water and waste water tanks are the same size. I know it's time to dump the holding tank when I run out of water, since we don't use the city water connection except to flush the system at the start of the season. Our tanks are translucent and easy to see in the bay, so every time I'm in the bay for supplies I take a look at the water & waste levels. Having a combined gray/black waste tank makes dumping super easy, and I do add the Calgon & Dawn as added insurance just in case. I've found that helps keeps the sides of the tank a bit cleaner after dumping, but it really doesn't affect much else. I'm not too terribly concerned about the cleanliness of the black tank, being that it is the black tank and will become filthy after the first use.

If you're planning to do this on the duals in the rear, be sure to check the space between the tires. There will be a difference in clearance from the new tires, and the tire manufacturer will have a minimum for this.

Wasn't familiar with Hercules Tires till I read your question. Did a little research and see that they are owned by Cooper Tire. Curious to see if anyone has hard facts on the brand with regard to quality, longevity, safety, etc.

This is the main reason that I'm using the Splash -75 this year. I had some of the stuff with ethanol left over from an older coach, and it's what I plan to use in the black tank to keep the remaining contents from freezing. The Splash -75 is what will be pumped through the fresh water system.

It's a GMC 4108, often referred to as a Buffalo bus due to the hump in the roof. There were a few similar coach models made by GM with the humped roof (4107, 4903, 4905). These models had a few seats on the lower deck up front, and all the rest were up a couple of steps. Restroom was in the rear. Almost all of these buses which were in commercial service were bought by Trailways, with the rest going to smaller charter companies. By the time these buses were produced by GM, Greyhound already was working with MCI for their fleet needs. The Scenic Cruiser was an earlier bus, made from 1954-56 and in use through the 70s. They were made exclusively for Greyhound. The Scenic Cruiser had 10 seats on the lower deck. The rest room was located at the rear of the lower deck. The floor height on the Scenic Cruiser's lower deck was lower than the Buffalo buses, and the upper deck on the Scenic Cruiser had much taller windshields than the Buffalo buses since it was a few more steps above its lower deck. Our GMC came from the last run of the parlor coaches made by GM, which ended production in 1980. They made a few transit models after that, but no more parlor coaches. Our particular bus never saw commercial service, being sold to the owner of a charter bus company with the intention of being made his family's private motor home immediately. It was ordered from GM without seats or factory rest room, and was sent directly to Custom Coach for conversion. Flxible did make models that competed with the GM buses. They had a model to compete directly against the Scenic Cruiser and another against the Buffalo buses.

Seems like that is something we see everywhere we go, not just TT. All the good spots are held by seasonal renters, and only a few sites up front are available to weekend or short-term campers. The TT campground we recently visited in Lancaster PA had electric meters on nearly all of their filled sites, which we took to indicate that these were seasonal renters. Since then, we've looked in other campgrounds where we've stayed and noticed the same thing. The only sites without meters are up front towards the office and certainly not the best sites. I don't blame the campgrounds though, as I'd be happier with a seasonal payment for a site rather than having to hope that it gets filled on a week-to-week or day-to-day basis.