richard5933

Sometimes my pump does the same, has since new. I installed a longer hose to use to pull antifreeze into the pump, and then raise the gallon jug a few feet above the level of the pump. Also helps if there is a faucet fully open so that it's not fighting against the pressure inside.

Regardless of how one can measure the dual tire spacing, I hope we all can agree that the important thing here is to remember to consider that measurement when deciding whether or not to change tire size. Most people consider spacing in the wheel wells, problems with steering clearance, etc, but not everyone is even aware of this measurement.

Have you pulled the dipstick to check the level in the tranny? If the tranny temp is 70 degrees, then I can't see how that would be problematic at all. Perhaps the 70 is referring to the oil level? As in, 70% full. If so, then maybe it's low on tranny fluid.

And some are combining the salt with sand or other abrasives, which acts like a sandblaster to remove the paint. Guess that's to give the salt a better shot at rotting out the metal. We generally park our coach during the salt season here in Wisconsin. By the end of some winters everything even near the roads is covered with a fine white dust from all the salt put down. In recent years they've cut back somewhat due to budget reductions.

Here's a link to manufacturer's page about the varieties of DeOxit. There is a link for a PDF file which compares them and tells which are generally safe for plastics. That said, doing a test is always a good idea. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

Have you checked ground connections? Things worked when you parked and after two months of parking in the summer they don't. More than enough time in the hot/humid summer for some corrosion to interfere with a ground connection. No ground connection - no controls. A 1995 rig is old enough to have problems with ground connections being corroded and/or loose. Lots of posts for similar issues on the bus conversion sites for guys running the Allison auto transmissions. I second the vote for DeOxit to help clean up problem or questionable contacts. Seems that it's common for everyone looking for a bad connection to go around jiggling and pushing on every harness connector they can find, when all along the problem is the single wire that connects the system to the chassis for ground. Couldn't hurt to check the large grounding straps at the same time, which may look good on the outside but be rotted on the inside. Not sure where your grounding straps are, but usually between engine/chassis, trans/chassis, etc.

My opinion is slightly biased towards older vehicles, but I'll offer it anyhow. If your current rig meets your needs, then keep it. If you and/or your wife want some features that you don't have that are offered in the newer models, then go for it. Reliability and maintenance issues shouldn't really be a factor. Take a look on this and other RV forums and you'll see lots and lots of very new coaches having all sorts of problems. True, you might have a warranty for a short time, but you'll also have a wait list at the dealership to get those repaired. I've read about some people having success getting problems dealt with quickly, while others seems to have their rigs wallow at the dealership for the better part of a camping season. We have a 45-year-old coach. I do have to admit to having a good chuckle now and then when I read about a brand-new coach with more problems than ours. Seems like spending half a million on a new coach doesn't mean that you won't have quality problems. Sounds like you have a good handle on the problems on your rig. Two of the items on your list were just maintenance items that would be expected on any rig (bushings and batteries). Trade it for a newer one and you'll just be trading a basket of known issues for a basket of unknown issues. There will be issues. I've had lots of vintage and older vehicles, some used as daily drivers. The only time I really consider trading for something newer is when I no longer trust the vehicle - that would be trust the reliability of the vehicle to get me where I'm going (and back again) and/or trust the safety of the vehicle. There are lots of factors that go into this matrix, and they are different for each of us. You are the only ones that can make the determination as to whether you trust the rig you currently have.

Have you tried: https://www.uship.com/

https://raybuck.com/salt-rust-corrosion-by-state/

Have you thought about having it driven instead of transported? Or, maybe that's what you're talking about. You can search the FMCA directory for members listed as Pinch Hit drivers. Usually this is for emergency situations from what I read. However, there are lots of members in Florida listed as a pinch hit driver. Maybe you can just post a notice on this forum that you are looking for someone to drive your rig to Nevada, and then work out something that's mutually beneficial for you both. I bet there is someone that would enjoy the trip.

In this instance there were apparently many, many warnings prior to the last turn-off point. I have had a similar problem coming out of Sioux Falls SD. Got to the last stop sign at the top of a steep climb up from the falls park area and couldn't get started again without burning out the clutch. I called the police, and they sent a squad car to block traffic while I backed down the hill. Seemed like I wasn't the first driver this has happened to, as the officer was aware of what to do. Needless to say, it wasn't my best day driving and I had to just admit I screwed up not better checking the route before driving. I'm quite sure that they would rather send a squad (or two) to help a driver back out of a bad situation rather than send a search and rescue team out to look for bodies in the river. Sometimes it's better to swallow ones pride and call for help.

If you watch the video of the bus crossing carefully, you'll see that he clips the horizontal yellow warning sign with the roof of the bus. Can't believe that a driver missed all those signs and warnings. Almost seems like he did this on purpose knowing the risk. Just a supposition on my part.

Here's a newscast about the incident.

Not every problem which causes oil-coolant crossover can be found with a pressure test, especially problems which happen only when the engine is being operated. They did a pressure test - no problem found. Yet, you still have a problem. Not many choices here - either take it back to them to have another crack at it or find another shop to get a second opinion. No matter how good a shop is, there are times they miss things. As already mentioned, there is a long list of things which can cause the problem. Many of the possibilities in this situation are expensive to repair, so hopefully it will turn out to be something external which can be easily repaired.

Here's an example of what NOT to do. Check out the bridge sag as this bus crosses over. Would never want to be in this situation with a heavy Class A. Bridge has a 10 ton weight limit. https://www.nwahomepage.com/news/bus-over-bridge-beaver-arkansas_20181015160613/1525287187

Our homeowner's policy is through a company that only writes policies in the Midwest. They don't have nearly as many of these catastrophic events so their rates are more reasonable. Unfortunately, they don't write RV policies. It seems that most of the companies that do write RV policies are national companies, and as there are more (and larger) of these catastrophic events rates will only go in one direction - up.

Could the damage not be from the DOD but from someone who bought one of the high-powered LASER pointers available overseas? An acquaintance travels to China frequently, and reports that at one time it was possible to purchase a small blue-light LASER pointer that was strong enough to light objects on fire from a distance. These devices would possibly be able to cause damage like this. There are news reports of planes being forced to land due to LASER pointer incidents. I've got a LASER engraver, and the marks it makes on glass look like what's in the photos. There is a kiosk in the local mall that sells glass blocks with 3D images inside which have been etched from the inside out by two intersecting LASER beams. I don't doubt that the damage was done by a LASER. Who caused the damage is the big mystery to me. Was a police report ever filed about this? The Federal agencies have actually had success located and arresting people in the airplane incidents, so if the authorities were not notified they should be.

You purchased 3 new batteries - were these all coach (house) batteries or both the coach and the engine start battery? If you did not change the engine start battery, then that could very well have been the one that failed.

The single a/c unit on this coach has gone bad multiple times. Something is wrong here, and I'm and I'm wondering if it is a problem with the install. Could have been done wrong at the factory, who knows. While I love to blame the manufacturer as much as the next guy, this many units failing one after the other really says that there is something wrong in the RV itself. This is a ducted a/c from what I can see online. Was the ducting done properly to allow for proper air flow to/from the a/c unit? Perhaps a shorting or failing thermostat is causing the unit to run constantly or fight against itself. Perhaps a loose connection on the 120v wiring causing a low-voltage situation. But, something is not right here as there is no good reason for this many units to go bad one after the other. OR... There could be a serious problem with the Coleman Mach 8 a/c units. I just did a quick look on Google and apparently there are many entries about this particular unit. Seems like others are having repeat failures as well. IF everything checks out in the coach itself and all wiring is in good shape, then I'd vote for bailing on the Coleman and putting in something else. We had an Atwood Air Command with heat pump on our coach last year and it seemed to work fine. I'm sure that there are many other options as well.

Could this be part of the problem? If the trailer was only loaded to about 50% of load capacity but the tires were inflated to their max pressure, they'd be over-inflated in my book. I'm not an expert on tires, but I have to ask what the implications are of running tires at their max pressure, specifically as it relates to the damage detailed above.

What about a faulty thermostat or a short in the wiring (caused by a bad connection, bad wire, or staple/screw penetrating through where it shouldn't be)? Not sure how any of the failed units ran long enough to have their filters clog up. The rig is only 3 years old. If the a/c is ducted, could there be a restriction in the ducting which is reducing airflow to below the critical flow point? Or possibly something was installed backwards from the factory during the initial a/c install which caused the flow restriction? If so, I bet that all the subsequent installs followed suit and never looked for that kind of problem.

With a problem like this you might do better just going to a commercial tire shop. They'll be less expensive than Ford and will get you in much quicker than Jayco. From your description it sounds like you might need the stem replaced. Check with the tire place while you're there - they may very well have a used wheel that you can use for your spare.

Our insurance covers the repairs in full if they are less than a certain size. Usually if they are less than the size of a quarter repair is possible, but that applies to damage due to gravel or other debris. I'm thinking that if the crack is due to a stress fracture it probably won't be repairable. Those cracks usually develop from out outer edge in.

I'm going to blame autocorrect. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. 😉 (But thanks - I've corrected my original post and added the word to the autocorrect dictionary.)

Welcome to the forum. I agree with the others - if someone wants in they'll get in. I've read many more problems happening in storage locations than when the coach is out and about, so choose your storage options carefully. When we're traveling, we have locks on our storage bays and a deadbolt on the entry door. That's it. We don't worry about the small mechanical access doors or the coach's battery & engine door. But, we also don't park the coach anywhere we wouldn't park our car. When we're in the coach we use the deadbolt to prevent anyone easily opening the entry door, and we have a motion sensor light over the entry door which is solar charged so that it comes on even with the batteries disconnected. The apps which let you know temp and such are handy if you're worried about a pet in the coach. A suggestion - please add a bit more information to your profile such as first name, location, ect. Also, turn off the caps lock - many people see that as screaming when used in an online forum. There are lots of other threads in the FMCA forum about this subject, so try searching around a bit using different search terms. Again - welcome and here's to many years of joy in your new coach.