rossboyer

Did you login to 192.168.1.1 and enter the admin password?

I have had ours for about 3 months and have upgraded once without any problem.

That is true, but be sure to check the dates on all P&Ps indicated in the manual. Those were the ones active at the last edit of that manual. The individual P&Ps are up to date.

You can download load it from the FMCA web site. You do need to be logged in. Go to the Search and search for FMCA Policies and Procedures. Probably can shorten the search, but that works. Unfortunately, you can only download one at a time. I would do the ones that are relevant to any interest you have and then periodically download more. If you need any help, please send a personal message to me. I have chaired the committee for 13 years. I am going to be 80 next year and will leave the committee in the summer of 2021. Years

The directions specifically state indoor usage; therefore, while closet would work, engine is subject to road spray etc.

Please search for a detailed post “Procedure For Cleaning Rear Mounted Radiator” where I detailed the procedure that FREIGHTLINER told me to use. Possibly, it will help you.

I found on line a 12 inch 12 vdc LED fixture. While they only have three strips of LEDs, the light output is great. I left the current fixtures and connected three of the new fixtures perpendicular to the original. Still have one left because they come two to the package. I may add it to the other ceiling light in the future. You can find these on Amazon, MIHAZ 108LED 12V for 17.98/2 fixtures.

While on shore power and inverter off, check the voltage of the chassis batteries. I am guessing that the voltage will be low. While you may have enough available to start the engine, you may not have enough for the accessories. I would charge the chassis batteries with a separate battery charger until fully charged which may be a few hours or days. When fully charged, try your accessories.

Try my original post. I think I have the link correct now.

Looks as though I needed to add a slash (/) at the end for the (.com) to be included. Thank you. I’ll remember that.

I have tried to correct the link, and it works now. You can type the link into you web browser. By the way, Chuck Stuart has been very responsive to phone calls and emails. I have been able to get complete install appointment within 3 days. A short service item that you need probably will be less than two hours. If you decide to go there, their location is near the northwest corner of the Elkhart airport. Just a little east on CR6.

Usually, FMCA does not promote an item as a benefit unless the provider agrees to not provide the item at lower price to other groups. I think that a provider like Seven Corners can add a comment in their Family RVing advertisement about other services they have available. That or a seminar put on by VAS is probably how I knew that Seven Corners sells Travel Insurance.

Don’t know where you are located, but STUART’S in Elkhart, Indiana can provide service. I have had them install HWH on three different motor homes. 574-262-0225 or 800-826-6267 or cstuart@rvleveling.com. Home page: http://www.rvleveling.com/.

Log into FMCA.com. Go to search bar Type in travel insurance. You can read and download the Seven Corners brochure.

Possibly two problems. The pump has a check valve to keep shoreline from backflowing. Also the city/fill valve may be leaking through to fresh water tank. The pump is probably the easiest to fix. A new head is about $20 and just screws on. The valve may have clamps on the lines that may be hard to remove and replace.

That insurance has been available for members for, I think, as long as we have had FMCAssist. But I don’t know if the rate was less for FMCA members. I purchased it for our trip to Alaska and back. Back then I think it was $1.30/person/day.

First, what does your manufacturer state is the proper procedure? Mine states level 1st and then extend slide outs. I have had 3 motor homes, and they have all been the same. But I have read that some manufacturers recommend extend then level. I think it depends on how the RV was assembled.

When I had this problem, I was told by HWH that there was an electrical problem. After tracing through the circuit starting at the brake sensor line, I found that the ground wire nut at the pump and control was 2 turns loose. Tightened it and all is well. Suggest that you trace power at the control and pump before doing much else.

OK. Start out as I posted above. Just don’t follow the second breaker steps.

I think you have two output breakers. If you turn both off, can you then turn on the inverter? If it trips the 30 amp breaker then you probably have a problem with the converter/charger in the inverter or wiring to the batteries. If it does not trip, try closing one if the breakers. If it trips breaker, the problem is in the attached circuit. If it doesn’t trip breaker then open that one and close the other breaker. If it trips, you now know which circuit has the problem.

I took a short piece of 1.5” aluminum angle, trimmed with saber saw and file to match old latch. Drilled one hole and pop riveted in place. Oh, I painted it black also.

Since it is a diesel, do not start unless you can travel at least 25 miles. Running at idle will not get the engine and transmission hot enough. Otherwise, let it sit. Keep the batteries charged, keep fuel full and add biocide if it will set more than a couple of months.

The reason I asked is that I just installed 20 LED fixtures in my shop, garage and kitchen which are 120VAC. Some of them are surface mounted. I was considering opening one to see if I could eliminate the electronics that change the 120VAC to probably 12VDC. If I can I would install two 48” fixtures in our motor home to replace the small ceiling fixtures in the living and kitchen area. I had changed those to LEDs a couple of years ago. While there are 4 strips of 6000 LEDs, they still don’t put out enough lumens.

Did you modify a 120vac fixture to be 12vdc? If so, please detail the specifications of the fixture and steps to modify.

I have found when we have that problem lubricant is needed at all points of movement or a little steel wool to clean the contacts in the door frame.