rossboyer

I towed 2019 & 2016 Equinoxs. Only problem was with the 2019, I had to add a charge line. Otherwise, zero problems. I didn't have any tire problems, but I rotate tires every oil change.

I agree with wildbill.

If you have an clamp amp meter, check to see if the load is very close to the rating of the breaker. If so, you may need to replace the breaker.

Probably a switch is close to the left of your arm when in drivers seat. Mine also controls the wet bay and under the hood lights. Some individually can be turned off at the light, but the switch I referenced above is the master switch.

Welcome to FMCA. I encourage you to look at chapters in your area. They provide the real family experience. If one doesn't feel comfortable to you try another. We have belonged to a chapter for 24 years and while we no longer have an RV, we still attend dinners and meetings when they are nearby. It is great to visit with old friends and meet new ones.

The OP wanted to connect a battery charger to be able to charge the batteries at a location other than at the battery posts. The large heavy duty posts on the inverter would be a good location on some inverters, but the OP has indicated that the connections are not convenient on his inverter. So now, what do you not understand?

Only because the connections are readily accessible on my inverter, but OP states his are not; therefore, another connection location needs to be found.

While you are in the area, I encourage you to visit the RV Hall of Fame if you have not been there. It is located at 21565 Executive Pkwy, Elkhart which is the southeast corner of the intersection of County Rd 17 and I-80. The bricks honoring FMCA members is located northeast of the northernmost part of the building. They have on file in their library every issue of FMCA's magazines.

I probably would not if there are fuses between the bus bars and the batteries. An exception if you have an inverter, would be to connect to the posts on the inverter. There should be one fuse that maybe 159-300 amp rating in the inverter feed.

I haven't tried it, but looks like sound advice. Cost may be a factor. Regarding pressure washer, the statement to use a fan spray and a distance of about 3 feet is based on what Freightliner told me. But higher pressure washers may need to use bigger fan and/or stand back further as long as fins don't get bent.

Look for my post May 27, 2019.

An elderly Service Support employee of Freightliner at a Gillete convention told me to add the hole and pressure washer procedure that I detailed in a post here about 4 years ago. Maybe it was longer ago. I could not drive 65mph without the check engine light error. After that cleaning I never had the temperature gauge go above straight up. It use to go to about 2:00. The next trip to Gillette, I didn't have any troubles with the hills or mountains.

A few years ago I posted the procedure I use as recommended by Freightliner. If you didn't cut a hole in the bottom of the fan shroud, the sandwich of radiator, cac and transmission cooler probably isn't clean. After cleaning from the insided for about an hour, it took 3 hours of easy pressure washing from the outside before water was clear draining from the bottom hole. Once a year thereafter cleaning, I never had any issues with overheating even traveling from Phoenix to Flagstaff.

You will not regret going to SeaLevel. The only problem I had was the LP gas sensor would read 40% when empty and 125% when full. Needed to add a resistor in the wire from gas tank. Just never thought I needed it. I knew at 50% I better get a fill up.

My experience was good. They gave me several tips about creating pictures and only accepting cash or electronic funds transfer. But I didn't sell it through them. I don't know how many real inquiries they received. They do vet inquiries which means you don't have a lot of calls to answer. I actually sold through Facebook marketplace. I don't remember how many inquiries I had but not many. After about a month, I showed the motor home to a serious buyer. Next day a second. First one couldn't get financing. The second gave me $1,000.00 cash deposit. Two days later, an electronic transfer for full payment. I had accepted a selling price $1,000.00 less than the one suggested by RV Wheelator, but since I didn't have to pay their commission, I netted $1,000.00 more than I would have. I did give him a lot of items that I would no longer need. Spare parts, belts, filters etc. They have done some of their own customizations which is good. The buyer has called me 3 or 4 times asking questions about operating different items. He had RVing experience, but it was using a 5th wheel. So bottom line, good experience with RVWHEELATOR, but didn't sell through them.

Better to be save vs sorry. Ask your insurance company for your insurance specifics.

Has it been tested with another car being towed. May be a problem with the towed. if another towed has the same problem, check to see if hitch is off center that could be the problem.

Koni is what I upgraded to on our 2006 Expedition whice is about the same as the Bounders. Never regretted it. They were still great after about 90,000 miles of usage.

Suggest that you try Signs-R-Us that make custom signs. They have locations across the country.

Many manufacturers of jacks state the engine should be running, so that voltage and current are at maximum.

Agree. You might use the thicker type used for gas lines.

My understanding is that ATF III is downward compatible, but ATF II sn't compatible where ATF III is specified.

Do you know who manufactured your levelers? i had a Coronado that used HWH. If yours are HWH, they recommend their fluid; but automatic transmission fluid as an alternative.

Welcome to FMCA. Hopefully, you will enjoy many years of RVing. We did for 37 years and traveled more than 500,000 miles. Look into chapters in your area or interest. Visit them a join one you like. Many friends will be yours.

FMCA has a partner agreement with FMCA Roadside Assistance. Why not check it out?