elkhartjim

I know some use peroxide but from the research I did, it would take a lot of peroxide to sanitize the system...like gallons. This is what I do. I sanitize our RV water system every spring when I take the RV out of storage and any time I notice an odor in the RV water system. It’s really quite simple to do. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is usually located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. Caution: Never drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the RV water system. Open these and let the water drain out. Now, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Next, close all of the drains. What we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. To sanitize the water system use a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. If you can't conveniently do that, fill the filter housing without the filter inside. You may need to do that more than once. Fill the fresh water tank almost completely full of potable water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets. If it’s possible drive the RV or pull the trailer so the water can move around to assist in cleaning the entire tank. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. Drain the entire system again and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. If you follow these simple steps you can rest assured that the fresh water system in your RV truly is fresh.

Try here for some info or call customer support. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Slideouts/pg_82_S0010_01.pdf Lippert owns PowerGear. BTW...never heard about no power at your storage problem.

Call the Freightliner help desk with the last 6 of your VIN number. They can tell you anything you need to know.

Rob, this forum does exist for us to help each other. If you're about to make a decision to do something to your motorhome and you have questions or you're just not quite sure about what you should or should not do...ask.

Wayne, did you pull the dipstick for engine, transmission, generator to see if there is water in the oil? That would certainly cause them to total it.

Wayne, I agree with Chris and procedures may vary from insurance company to insurance company. Call your provider for information and document with name, date and time the person you spoke with. All those conversations are recorded I believe.

The thought just occured to me, the topic is air escaping so I guess you two were still on the topic. My apologies for not realizing you were blowing hot air.

Carl, are you suggesting Herman owns multiple Sawzalls and chainsaws?

I removed the door stop just as Herman did and the delivery guys removed the doors from the Samsung. Easy peazy for those young burly men. They removed the Nocold by taking the doors off.

OK guys, Carl, you and Herman need to get back on topic. Brett will be more pleased with y'all if you stay on topic and not wonder off in to the hither lands.

I did all the things Herman did except when Lowes delivered my Samsung RF18, the delivery guys (3) removed the Nocold that I had sitting in the floor and brought the Samsung in and set it in the hole. I gave them 20 bucks each. They hauled off the Nocold as an extra bonus. You can plug the electrical in to the outlet the ice maker was plugged in.

"don't ever have to worry about the roof" and what are you worried about, the roof. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm with Carl, what is the rest of the story?

So....you had 50 things go wrong and none of those involved the roof but you had a new roof installed. What part of that makes sense (cents)?

Copied from RV Travel Newsletter http://rvtravel.com/fmcas-future-unclear-your-thoughts-please/ Should FMCA accept towable RVs into its current motorhome-only club? PLEASE ANSWER ONCE. THE CURRENT TALLY WILL APPEAR IMMEDIATELY AFTER I am an FMCA member. I say YES, accept towables to the club. 34% I am an FMCA member. I say NO, do not accept towables to the club. 22% I am a towable RV owner and am interested in joining the club. 16% I am a towable RV owner but not interested in joining the club. 19% 29votes 11%

The OP hasn't signed in since August 14th. Now...what is the topic?

If I drive with my Fantastic fan lid open in the rain, I get rain inside. My fans have the rain sensor and close when its raining. Do you not get rain in your house if you leave a window open when its raining. Curious, why did you have a roof replaced on a 2018 motorhome?

Our service manager said that even after the adjuster inspects the MH it could be a month or more before he settle up with us. This must be different than auto insurance. When I had my shop, many times the adjuster would write a check and hand to the owner if he was there or it never took more than a few days for snail mail to get the check delivered. The insurance company wants to get it settled since they will be paying storage charges until its removed from Dues. Like I said, maybe motorhome insurance is different. BTW...if at all possible, be there when the adjuster is there. Most, if not all adjusters don't have a clue on costing out repairs on a motorhome. There are no computer programs like the estimating programs for cars. My experience has been the shop will tell the adjuster what its going to cost to repair and thats what they go by. Call me if you have any questions.

A friend and I spent two months trying to talk a mutual friend out of buying a motorhome, but nooooo. He bought a really nice used one and my friend and I went over it with him. It really was a nice pusher. They went on two camping trips and both he and his wife decided it wasn't for them. He got close to what he paid for it but lost the 6.25 sales tax plus it took him almost 4 months to sell it. Renting is expensive but losing $5 - 6000 will do a lot of renting.

Be cautious listening to Wayne. He has been known to give out bad information, just ask Herman.

Diesel was $2.169 @ Buc-ee's 2 days ago in Katy, TX Regular unleaded was $1.889 The price is up in the Texas because drivers caused a gas/fuel shortage by filling up every time they saw a station open. Basic economics - supply and demand. Oh....diesel at Loves Truck stop on same exit was $2.649

Lord help us all, especially those suffering from senility. Not to name names but his initials are WAYNE. I'm sorry Herman, Wayne most likely didn't take his meds yesterday.

So in the whole scheme of things if you go through a bunch of diesel in a month and spend an extra $30 to $50 does it really matter? Of course it does. $360 - $600/year equates to 10 - 20 free nights at a campground.

Just another one post poster. The thread has not been a total waste. Carl found out you can get a truckers atlas at a truck stop. There is a wealth of information on this forum and some of it is worth exactly what you pay for it.

I got mine at a truck stop.