elkhartjim

Thanks, Brett. He just keeps repeating covering your tires will extend service life. Common sense tells me that but I would like to know the cost (my time), benefit (extended tire life) for me. I guess Roger is like a pathologist that performs autopsies. I guess he has data for failures but nothing to backup longevity. Maybe I'm looking for a cardiologist. And you exactly correct, without samples of covered and uncovered tires its just an assumption tires will last longer if covered. I've never seen a tire manufacturer state something to the effect, "if you cover your tires you shouldn't need to replace them for X years but if uncovered. continue with the recommended replacement in Y years. Thanks.

Can you publish any real time data to substantiate this claim? Are you suggesting if we only drive at night when the tire temperature is cooler and no uv rays that our tires would last longer? How much longer? That is the question I continue to ask and so far you have not been willing or able to answer that. I'm only being persistent because you're the only self professed tire expert on this forum that seems to think covering a tire will increase the tire life and I would like to know by how long. Thanks.

Hijackers

Recently it was posted the average members age was I believe 72+ which means they have Medicare coverage.

Welcome, Ken. If you post year, make and model of your motorhome plus the inverter make and model it will help you get better answers. My inverter has a float charge rate so I leave it plugged in all the time. What amperage is the 115v you will connect too?

Seriously?

Tell'em its a 13 Bill, they won't know the difference.

My thought has always been, if it looks good how do they know the age of the coach? Can anyone of us tell the difference in a 2005, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 15 Fleetwood Discovery just by looking?

Maybe they don't have any controlled testing data. My experience using 303 has been it makes the tires look better without harming the tires. Of course exposure to the elements is not a good thing. I'm surprised you are comparing gel coat to a rubber tire. I've seen 50 year old boats that other than the dark of night never saw a shade. They may have been faded but there were no cracks. My 2008 motorhome that I took delivery of August 2007 and sold in August 2017 did not have a crack in the fiberglass finish after being stored in the heat, uv and ozone near the Houston area. Probably some other nasty stuff in the air also. I did read your blog prior to my original post. That is why I asked my questions. I understand and agree that a tire exposed to the elements will deteriorate over time. I still have the same question, what does covering my tires buy me? I can safely estimate seeing maybe one coach with tires covered out of every 100+ coaches I see. Maybe those folks have my same question, what does it buy me? Thanks for your response.

Tireman, I'm curious in all your testing, have you done a 5-7 year test on a tire covered and uncovered? Same tire, same motorhome, same side, same use. The only difference would be one of course would be on a dual axle. My last motorhome is the only one I changed tires on due to age. I changed at 6 years, 46,000 miles. The motorhome was stored outside in the Texas sun and the tires were never covered and the tread showed hardly any wear when I changed them out. They were 22.5" Goodyear G670's, inflated according to 4 corner weight. I cleaned them with water and used 303 Protector on them. My reason for the question is, what would a tire cover have done for me? They were not showing any visible cracks at the time of replacement. Tire covers can be a pain to use and to store not to mention a muddy mess in rainy weather. My point, if the tires had been covered or not and regardless of their appearance, I would still have replaced them at the 6 year mark. Now if I could get 7, 8, 9 years or so, I would see a benefit if covering them. I appreciate you responding and Happy Thanksgiving.

Looks simple enough but I think the car wrap product is different from Diamond Shield and also the car wrap product has not been on this car for several years which would make it much easier to remove. It would be great if it were that easy to remove after it had been on a coach for several years.

Wait a minute or as WBill would say, weight a minute...I don't think he was being sarcastic and I'm pretty sure you shouldn't take it as a compliment. Just sayin. I think he was just being subtle so as to not hurt your feeling.

You guys haven't seen the dog Wayne travels with; he doesn't need a firearm.

Just curious, are you putting Carl and Five in the smart or some not so smart category?

Dang it, Blake! I was keeping the fix close to the vest waiting for the OP to come back now you've blown it. Each time I've needed to repair/replace the flux capacitor, it has been very straight forward and simple...even for an Aggie.

First thing you need to do is take a picture of your coach. I'm sure you have the Brownie Hawkeye still laying around.

I just re-read his post and you're right, macerator on the gray tank???? Funny!

My thoughts exactly, Carl. I've never read one post saying its easy to remove.

Time out is better that Xed out I guess.

If you've truly found a good way to remove the DS, why don't you save a lot of phone calling and just tell us. Plus, I don't have a clue as to what WIT is or how to get their number.

Key question, do you have 12V at the batteries? New batteries can go dead in a short time if there is any parasitic load.

I don't recommend ordering parts from them, Wayne. They would require me to come in and pay for the part because they would need to order it and I don't have an account and no, they wouldn't accept a credit card over the phone. They also would not give the FCOC discount on ordered parts. I called Freightliner in Gaffney, they shipped the part that day 40% less expensive than Freightliner Houston.

If you have a Freightliner chassis it could be the wiring harness for the LBCU. I'm not sure if you have a LBCU or VDU, but both can be problematic with low air alarms. The VDU problem originates from cold solder joints and the LBCU is due to the daisy chain wiring harness. If you don't have a Freightliner chassis, then the info is not relevant. There are DIY fixes for both problems. LBCU = Light Bar Control Unit VDU = Video Data Unit

That is why we are making the comments we're making. "anti-gravity".