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My cable operated slide is 26 feet long and has operated flawlessly for the last 5 years. I do inspect it on a regular basis and have never seen a problem. On mine the worse part is that it is very difficult to access if something did go wrong. I carry a spare cable and repair kit just in case.

I had the same problem with a couple of my doors. A close inspection measuring the latch engagement I found that the latch was barely engaging the striker. I ended up bending the strikers slightly for maximum engagement and haven't had any more doors popping open and that was 5 years and 45000 miles ago.

When I looked at the Lucas Slick Mist it sells for about $7 for 24oz. The WashWax solution is $30 for a gallon. So a gallon of Lucas will be about $37+. I wouldn't doubt that you could find the rest of the components slightly less expensive.

I found another reference to the toilet fuse in the owner manual in the toilet troubleshooting section. "The toilet uses a 40 Amp minibreaker located in the curbside battery compartment. Open the black box above the batteries to access the minibreaker." No fuse shown on the diagram of that box. I went and look in it and there is only one 30amp breaker in it and it is for the starter. No fuses larger than 20amp in it. So the hunt continues...

On my 2012 there is a 15amp IGN+ STEP fuse "F60" in the roadside front electrical panel. I think that is just the ignition trigger supply as the step needs a BATT+ supply. My manual also states it is a 25 amp located in the roadside front electrical panel but I can't find it in any of my 3 12v fuse panels. I guess it's time to look for an in line fuse or trace the wire.

I have been using the WashWax system for the last 4 years and I am very happy with it. I have no issues doing the side windows with it.

When we went we stayed at the KOA Ventura Ranch out of Santa Paula. About 30 miles to the Library.

In my manual it states: I would call Magnum to find out what you should set it to.

When I needed to make modifications to my Corian countertop the first thing was to figure out the actual material brand (Corian, Wilsonart, etc) then figure out the "color" name is. Next I called around to the local shops that did installations and tried to find some remnants. I live in a small town so two phone calls and that idea was done. Next I searched for places on the internet that sold remnants. I found a couple and one actually had a remnant of color I needed, ordered it and made made the pieces I needed. The place I used is: http://solidsurface.com/ Corian is not cheap so be prepared $$. The wood idea would probably be much less expensive.

You didn't specifically say where, was it the Blue Beacon in El Paso?

I-40 may be cooler but it is in bad shape between Kingman and Flagstaff. I suggest I-10 this time.

If a portable is what works for you then check out the RVi unit. It's the most compact and very easy to work with. https://rvibrake.com/

An update to my issue of having more than one non-Hopper 3 device on my home account. Earlier this summer when I called to add a second Wally the person at Dish told me to call one of their dealers and they would take care of it. This was new, I usually got an definite NO when I asked. I called the dealer and told the guy who answered that I had an RV with a Trav'ler dish and what I wanted to do and he told me to just purchase the Wally and have it activated and that he didn't understand why they wanted me to call him. I got the second Wally, installed it, called Dish to activate and low and behold they did. The conversation seemed a little strange like they didn't know exactly what to do, kind if like the person I was talking to had never activated a new receiver before. Anyway after "fighting" with Dish for the last few years and getting lame excuses I finally have two operational receivers in my RV.

I had a RV760 and now a RV770. The RV770 is not hardware identical to the RV760. The RV770 has a glass screen, it has higher resolution, and it is faster. I am sure there are other changes but I can't say for sure. The RV770 has some new features that I find handy. However the maps that come with it are identical to the RV760. I recommend the RV770, it is defiantly and upgrade to the RV760.

I have done both trailer and 4-down over the last 13 years. Trailer exclusively for the first 9 years and then started 4-down when I got a toad that could be towed that way. The choice is based on what your toad is, the capacity of the MH, overall length, and other personal preferences like storage for the trailer when not in use. In my opinion the 4-down is only slightly easier to deal with but I prefer to use the trailer for the ability to backup. For my setup the overall lengths are identical so I always try and get a 57'+ pull through site either way. The overall cost to start is about the same but the trailer will require more regular maintenance.

I was on 14 a couple of years ago in the car and while the road surface is good it is a steep climb from 5800' to 9900' in 17 miles then down to 7400'. The climb up from Cedar City is pretty twisty.

I went through this issue a couple of years ago. The input for L1 and L2 voltage sensors are connected to the sheding system. On mine it is relay 3 and 5 (L1 and L2) and relay 3 was connected the dryer breaker (I don't have a dryer) which I turned off causing the problem. I swapped the use of that relay with the water heater which is always on. The shed display is no longer correct but it doesn't matter to me.

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Since I upgraded the steering box and added the front Watts link the cross wind effect is very manageable.

As an owner of a 2012 Monaco with the MaxxForce 10 engine I can say that there are no more issues with it than any other RV engine. All the owners I have had contact with like the engine. Those who jump in with the " Maxxforce has problems" comments forget to state which engine, the series 13 and larger are the engines with the emission control problems not the 7 or 10. I have over 36000 trouble free miles on mine. I wouldn't hesitate with that coach if it's the floorplan you want.

The 2014 Grand Cherokees do not have any towing issues. You may be thinking of a Cherokee.

I have encountered a CG where the 50amp pedestal was wired incorrectly and the two hots read 0 volts. If your power management system doesn't recognize this condition and limit usage to 30amps it can create an overloaded neutral condition, potentially causing the neutral wire to overheat which could lead to a fire.

I have a buddy with a 2007 National that has had two A/C compressors lock up on him.

glsponchos was told the same thing I was. I wanted to put a Hopper in my RV and Dish said NO. I had a 211k in the RV and Dish will not allow more than one non-Hopper receiver on a Hopper home account. A few months ago I was told by Dish that more than one of the new Wally's was going to be allowed on the home account so I switched to a Wally and they still won't let me have two.

According to a 2005 HR brochure you have a RR8R chassis, if so, the rear trailing arm does not apply. You really need to verify the chassis and post pictures of the bent parts.