five

I'm on my second DP, two different makes and sizes of engines. My experience is that once over 60 MPH, the mileage heads south.

The Magne Shades are held in place with three bungees that are sewn on. Also, you tell them the size and number of each tire and they make them for your sized tires...I have two 315s and four 295s.

I guess the coaches must be wired differently. My eng heat in the curb side rear compartment is electric only and has nothing to do with the Aqua Hot. I do have the AH eng heat feature, but never use it because we're plugged into shore power. Herman, your idea makes too much sense...they'll never do that!

Magne Shades are top quality. I had five of their shades on my previous coach and have six tire covers on this one. You need to check out the link, scroll down to the middle...easy on easy off, and you can still see the center of the wheel: http://www.magneshade.com/

If you are serious about getting them to pay for it, don't give up. Send them a very nice, very detailed letter (certified mail) explaining the issue and why you believe they should pay for it. It took me three letters and a phone call (gradually moving up the chain of command) before I got a guy with enough horse power to tell me "you need to bring that coach here so we can fix it." They fixed it, along another item also out of warranty that I did not mention...and reimbursed me for 1,500 miles of diesel fuel. The fuel took another letter, which was requested in a thank you letter.

Both of our American Coaches are probably like Carl's. The plug is in the electrical compartment with the power cord...last basement compartment, street side. It is there so the engine pre heat can be plugged in. In both my ACs, you had to plug in the pre heat, then turn on the switch to active the plug. The switch was in the back of the inside of the coach.

My DD500 will run all day at any speed...a bit thirstier at the higher speeds. However, like many, top speed is limited by my toad to 65.

I would not tow anything four down without the manual saying it's okay or something in writing. There are folks all over the country towing vehicles that are not officially approved for towing. They are quick to say, "it tows fine, no problems." That's fine, until there is a problem because that model is not supposed to be towed four down. Reminds me of RVers towing 16k 5th wheels with 3/4 ton trucks..."tows great, don't need a bigger truck."

Good luck with that, but we have no choice, you cannot substitute and practice a blowout. However, there is no substitute for actual "doing." In aircraft we quite often shut down an engine on a twin engine aircraft or roll the throttle off in a helicopter...without telling the student. That is the real thing...it is sudden, unexpected and you are getting no power from the engine.

Agree...don't brake for sure. The coach is going to slow more quickly after a blow out than it normally would anyway. That dead tire is not rolling smoothly (even if it is still on the rim) and is creating some drag.

I respect your knowledge and opinion, Tireman, but I do not buy the "step on the throttle" response offered by Michelin. As evidenced by the first link in the OP's post, the last thing that driver needed was more forward thrust as it appears he was going too fast anyway. I have posted, in detail, a RF blowout we had last year. Rather than repeat that entire post here is a synopsis: I've had two blow outs, the most recent was a RF tire in May 2015. The last thing I wanted was more speed or more forward thurst. I slowed (did not brake), maintained control and got off the road. The Michelin video sounds good and looks good, however, all the scenarios are scripted with safety the primary consideration. It's like a lot of "school solutions," every aspect of the demonstration is planned. However, when doing it for real, I doubt it's merit. As for the comment: "A driver needs to stop and think about what to do and to take a moment - frequently - to help implant the correct response so it can become an automatic response." That sounds good, however, I've been flying helicopters and airplanes since the 60s and an FAA instructor in both for many of those years. Your response in an emergency...and that's what this is (see the first tape)...must be automatic. You can think about it all you want but when that tire fails (or aircraft engine fails) you must do something NOW. There is no time to think and ponder the situation. Again, Tireman, I have learned a lot about tires, RV tires especially, from your posts. However, based on my experience, with actual emergencies, this Michelin video is not a good solution to a blow out.

I have reliable power and winterize mostly with light bulbs. Two 60 watt bulbs where ever I need to protect against freezing...refer, Aqua Hot, water bay, W/D, and pink stuff in the electric toilets.

Is that RPM correct, that's really high for a diesel?

bsmeaton...sent you a PM.

Sounds like the wobble issue with some Jeeps.

I would not attempt to back up (with the toad) in the middle of any turn. Too much of a chance of bending the tow bars. Two weeks ago we were exiting a CG and could not quite make the turn off our lane...the RF mirror would have hit a road sign, the MH it's self was clear. I started the toad and put it in R, foot on the brake and moved an inch or so. That little bit reduction in pressure let me get the toad loose from the MH...with a little help from a hammer on the locking pins. I did learn, one thing. This coach advertises a 60 degree turn. I don't know if that is true or not, but the coach will turn sharper than the toad can turn without hitting it's tow bars.

Here is a link to the AH forum: http://forum.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/activity.php

What make/model is the toilet...is it electric?

I keep a set of MH keys in the toad and a set in a magnet container on the chassis I also keep a set of toad keys in the MH. As for "probably reading too many posts of people having problems" don't let that bother you. One of the purposes of the forum is to help each other with problems. We don't make posts that say, "just made a 3,000 mile trip and everything worked perfectly." We make posts when something is broken or we have a problem and need some assistance.

All manufacturers have different names for these lights, American Coach calls them "docking lights."

The slide toppers on my previous coach used to collect water. For me, the easiest thing to do was climb on the roof and sweep the water off the topper, then pull in the slide. That would be easier than lower each corner of the coach to drain the water, then go back to level to pull the slides in.

Good advice. If not kept lubricated, they will not move.

Maybe a minor point, but I don't think the ICS make a 400 hp engine...that's size is an ISL. Also, the OP might not know that the ICS is 8.3L and the ISL is 8.9L.

Another interesting consideration when talking about washer/dryers is how they drain. Some drain directly to the main discharge line, not into the gray tank. So if you are not connected to the sewer line, you are out of luck. We've had both, the first drained directly into the main line. When we got the second, I "assumed" (we all know what that means) it was plumbed the same...until I saw gray water floating the cat's litter box we kept in the shower.

Those big birds can do serious damage. The general public got a view of the problems they can cause when Sully's Airbus had to land in the Hudson. A number of years ago we had a huge vulture come through the right front wind screen of a Huey. He sprayed blood and glass through out the cockpit and into the cabin. Fortunately we (the crew) had helmets on and visors down.