five

I too have had a recent blow out...RF in May. However, it's been my observation the vast majority of blowouts are on pull behinds and 5th wheels. IMHO, the reason for that is that most of their tires are made in China and are not nearly as good as the tires made elsewhere we put on our MHs. I had a 5th wheel and did not have a blowout, but the Chinese made Mission tire just came apart...properly inflated and loaded, going 60 MPH...just a lousy tire. I replaced them with LT tires, no more issues.

For a 2007 model gasser, 33k is not bad. If it checks out okay...and the D/W likes it, do it.

They are talking about the anti freeze, not fresh water. Also, propylene glycol is the recommended anti freeze.

Try pushing both switches together...that's how the water level is set, but it flushes first. If it works, take your fingers off the two swithches when the water reaches the desired height in the bowl.

If it's like everything else, there is some kind of safety feature to prevent that from happening. Like if you put it in drive with the jacks down...bells and whistles go off and it won't move. Or try to move before the jacks are all the way up.

These generators will run for weeks/months at a time...with very little care. That's what we did in VN.

One post and gone??

Carl, if you have sent me a PM, the system won't let me open it...nor can I edit my post above.

Have you tried pushing on the door next to the lock when turning the key...that might releave some pressure? Also...couple of points of clarification. The AH has no tank. And, when you turn on either the electric element or the burner (or both), all water coming out the hot faucets will be coming through the AH, so it will be hot. All of this has nothing to do with your water pump, bay door, or access to the AH. Ideally, if all was well with the AH, there is no reason to open that bay door.

FYI...Even if the sensor says the tank is full, you can override it by pushing and holding either flush switch for six seconds. Then it will flush.

Yes, as Carl noted. However, if you have a smart charger just leave it plugged in...that's what I do.

Yep, never looked better.

Agree...get the ones with the best deal...that are not made in China.

Who makes Sampson? No Chinese tires for me...BTDT.

One problem with pulling fuses, you might dump the memory in your radio and any other electrical settings you might have.

We had a similar problem, the motor would run, but no suction. Turns out there was a kink in the line. The kink was very close to the outlet in the coach. The tech took the cover off, pulled the line through (there was plenty), got to the kink and cut the line there. When it was reattached, all was fine.

All these coaches are different. I was told that the reason my slides would not operate without the key on (recommend engine running) was a safety consideration. Apparently they were concerned a child could active a slide by just pushing a button...if he/she could reach it.

The "mystery" of Marvel Mystery Oil, is why anybody would use it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marvel_Mystery_Oil

I checked my coach today...sorry, can't help you. They must have changed the way they put them together.

We have friends with an older Newell. No doubt fine coaches, but too much glitz and glitter and sparkle for me.

I had an ISL in the Allegiance, in addition to the OEM coolant, there were two other acceptable extended life coolants: - Peak "Final Charge Global Extended Life." - Zerex "Extreme Extended Life." Still working on the pic.

Another problem with the new low profile ACs is that they tend to freeze and when thawing the water runs down through a vent into the coach. That happened to us.

Right, I thought the Allegiance was the coach to end all coaches...but I didn't check with the CINC.

Are you going all the way to Decatur for this issue?

The frameless windows look cool and are easy to clean, but, like you, I don't like the greatly reduced air circulation. However, I guess this is progress and we are stuck with them.