hermanmullins

Pat, one of the problems folks have with their DVRs is heat. If your DVR is in a closed cabinet with little or no air circulation. The DVR can get too hot. Do you leave yours on all the time (plugged in). Even if your DVR is turned off but still plugged in it can still be hot. Some folks have install a small computer cooling fan to keep the air flowing around the DVR. Hope this Helps, Herman

Ron, See my response to your last post. Herman

Ron, Are you speaking of a wire or tubing? If it is a wire, Get some paste flux and a soldering iron. Apply a small amount of flux to the wire and heat with the soldering iron. The flux will start ot boil and the solder should liquify remove the heat. The solder should shine when it cools. Remove the flux residue and you should be good to go. If it is tubing check as to the color of the filler metal. Pinkesh means Phos/Copper. If it is sliver looking then it is likely solder. If silver the process is the same as the wire but you will need a propane torch for your heat source. If it is Phos/Copper and the joint is copper to copper all you need is a high heat source, some sort of Oxy/Fuel would be good. (Note on Copper to Copper using Phos/Copper filler metal you do not need a flux) You may need some filler metal (Phos/Copper comes in 0, 2,3,5 or 15 percent silver). If you can get some 15% it should be good for repairing any of the other percents. Any time you solder a wire connection it is best to remove the Flux Residue. The flux can hurt the wireing if it is an acid based flux, water is OK to remove the residue. Hope this helps, Herman

Rich, F355197's coach is an Executive and one year newer. I have two of the Battery switches in the battery compartment. Coach and chassis. I to have the Battery switch in the step well wall. It is an off/on switch. For what ever the reason, I can turn all three off and I still have a small drain on my batteries. I haven't gone looking for the culprit since I keep it plugged in all the time it is in the barn. I have forgotten to plug it in and 4 or 5 days later I will find the batteries down. One thing I do have that came with my coach is a Wiring Diagram Book, it contains both 12 volt and 110 ac wiring. Problem is that the print is so small it is hard to follow the wires. I have scanned and enlarged pages before so I could follow flow to find a problem. I did have a problem with the front slides switch. When I first had the problem I pulled the switch to check it. I always draw a diagram of the wiring of any switch if there is more then two wires. After checking the switch putting it back together I got the slide in and we went on our way. The next time we used the coach the slide would not go out. Went through several different step. Finaly got out the book and I was sitting on the couch looking at the book and the switch and wala, I said to myself "my switch isn't wired that way". I moved the wires to match the book and guess what happened. The slide went out and back in with just the push of the switch. I seem that I can't even follow my own drawings. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it. Herman

Jack & Kay, I'm sure the company was suspicious since it was not run through the complete process. Your charge is still open when you sign it and leave the tip. Then it must be closed with or with out the tip. If it was not closed and run through I can understand your card company doing as they did. They were only looking out for your interest. Good for them. Herman

Two thing you don't want to miss, Mount Rushmore at night and the Buffalo Bill Historic Center in Cody, WY. Herman

gmoreno, Tow Bar, Base plates, wiring of LR for lights and Braking system. Cost for all depends on how much you can do yourself. Tow Bar $450 to $600. Base Plates $350 to $500. Wiring $150. Brkes System $600 to $1200. None of my estiments include labor. Herman

Go ahead Lee, everone else is watching to. :lol:

I don't want to change anything in my spelling. I like for you folk out there to say "I think I know what he said but I also think he has his own words". Herman

tj, Welcome to the Forum. If it wont come down then why would you need for it to go up? :lol: Sorry, What kind of shade is it? Is it manual or power? With a little more information there will be someone with your same shade that may have had the same problem. Good Luck, Herman

Sorry to all. One thing I forgot to mention, "LUBRICATE". It is a great help to lubricate all moving piviot point on you latches. A good white Lit. or silicone lube are good. Herman

mslin95, Welcome to the Forum. I had several break. The first was a booger. After the first I found the secret. The latch when closed goes over a bar at the bottom of the compartment. It is secured by two 5/16 nuts (7/8 wrench) one on either side. Now before your break, take a look to see if you have access to the nuts from the inside of the compartment or under the coach. I have access caps in the floor of my compartments and I was able to get my hand in with a wrench and remove the nuts. When you have removed both nuts you can then pull the door open and have access to the latch. I replaced mine before I found out about the metal latches. But I plan to purchase several to have just in case they break again. Hope this helps. Herman

trutone, Welcome to the Forum. You are correct about the unit giving Average MPG. I have a TripTec on our Dynasty. I just use it as a guide for the trips we take. It does have a setting that give life time averages that, as you said, can't be reset. However according to it my life time average bounces between 45.8 and 96.7 MPG. I think I need have it checked out, do you think? Herman

Alan, Just to add to Rich's answer. On all of my vehicles I have made a habit of turning off the wipers when I stop the engine. This way I don't have then trying to come on when the windshield is frozen or the windshield is dry. Just one of my quirks. Herman

Pat, here is a quick check of the solenoid. Disconnect the left side cable, cover the end so it doesn't come in contact with any thing, replace the fuse and turn on the switch. If the fuse does not blow then your solenoid has a dead short in it. You can buy the solenoid at O'Reilys, Auto Zone and most any parts house. What you need is a 12 volt continuous duty solenoid. Good luck, Herman

astmi, I was told by the owner of Extreme Graphics to use steam and not a heat guns. He said that with a hot air gun the heat just keeps on rising and can blister the paint if held in one spot too long. Where steam's max temp is 212 degrees and by the time it get to the 3M shield it is around 190 and is hot enough to help release the adhesive but not hurt the surface. However he also said with the best of care the paint can still be damaged by what ever tools you may use. He quoted me $3,000.00 to remove mine. That included removing the shield, and repainting the front of the coach from the windshield down. He said that the most of that was the labor to remove the shield. He said that he has had coaches that took up to 3 days to remove the shield. I may have him do it next year. Herman

Rich, FYI. I have a 2002 Monaco Dynasty with the Cummins 400 ISL. On the drivers side in front of the Front wheel I have my 12 volt panel. I have two solenoids there along with all of my relays, fuses and my Smart Wheel Control Box. In the Rear in the engine compartment I have two black boxes. Each has electric connections. The box on the right has three solenoids, two 12 volt continuous solenoids and one large (gold colored) solenoid. I believe it is part of the ATS. Just some more information to clutter up your gray matter. Herman

My thought, Yes. Herman

3. Not that anyone is counting. THANK you for your service. Herman

jgarner, Welcome to the Forum, Please don't jump in haste to condem Michilen. They are new to the program and need to make some adjustments. Check the program again when you need new tires. They may have made adjustment and will cover smaller RV tires. Please be patiant. Herman

Carlon, Welcome to FMCA and the Forum. The Michilen program is only a few years old. Like most new programs there are some kinks. Hopely they will make some adjustment shortly. Now that it has come to light I am sure the National Board will take a look and talk to Michilen. I love our 40 ft. DP but I envy you being able to pull into any station and go to any pump. Oh well. Herman

Gary, If the switch has lasted for 22 years I would try to replace it with the same mfg. if you can find one. Many really good thing don't last 22 years. Have a Safe & Happy New Year. Herman

Hello out there. I know some of you don't have a home Chapter yet, so let me invite you to come and join us at one of our Rallies this next year. We are the Lone Star Chapter of FMCA. We have members from Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana and Arkansas. We have 5 Rallies each year. Our Chapter is the 9th oldest Chapter in FMCA, 2013 will be our 46th year. Read about us in the August 2012 FMCA Magazine-- page 30. If you would like more information about Lone Star feel free to send me a personal message and I will give you all the information. We have a prospect list that we send information to folks interested in Rallies. Come, visit and get to know some really great folks. :) Herman Mullins President Lone Star Chapter

dd69, I can see into each cell but don't have the room for the bottle. I used one of these back in the 50/60 when I worked in a garage. Black rubber like material that you stuck into each cell pushed down and when you released the pressure the cell was full, that is if you kept the bottle full. My house batteries (4 ea 6 volts) sit in a tray under the other battery tray. Even when the tray is pulled out there still isn't room on the back two batteries for the bottle. And what more I can see if I have water in the spray bottle. (opps) Herman

Ben, Check both your front end and rear axle. Do they both have sway bars. If no then you may need them. If you do then you may need to have stronger sway bars. There are several companies that advertise in Both FMCA and Motorhome mags. having sway bars. Good Luck, Herman