hermanmullins

Andy, Looking at your pictures shows there has been a problem before due to the old clamps being moved and new ones installed. You did the right thing by replacing the hose and new clamps. If you haven't replaced the hose yet, you might consider using a longer piece of hose with two clamps on each end. Pipe insulation would be good also. A lot of times a system works really well until you get to a RV Park that has really high water pressure. I, now from experience, always check the pressure before I hook up. Good luck and stay dry. Herman

Bill, I use Lucas when I do add conditioner which is about every third or forth tank full. By the way Bill when are you going to join us, Lone Star Chapter, at a Rally? Herman

Tom, You stated that you added 1/2 to 3/4 cup of water per cell. Was the level below the top of the plates on any of the cells? Plates that have the level expose them will dry and flake when water is added. Those flakes can build up in the bottom of the Battery and short out plate there by ruining the Battery. It is called a Sulfated Battery. It is always best to be sure the water level is above the plates. By the way I have a hint for folks out there. Rather then the squeeze bulb or turkey baster to fill my batteries I use a pump up sprayer. Fill the sprayer, pump it up and then all you need to do is fill without a bucket and bulb. All you need to do the the sprayer is remove the tip of the tube. Herman

Bill, You are on the right track. I would go to my local Electrical Supply house and ask about what cable they have that would meet your specifications. While your are at it you might consider making the cable a little longer and getting a male plug that has the handle built in. I would also put a female plug on the old yellow cable for an extra extention cord. Hope this helps. Herman

As dd69 said check the door seals. A good way to check them is with a dollar bill. Close the door over a bill. Is should have a good drag on it. Check in several places to make sure it is sealing the same all the way around. If it is a double door be sure and check the seal in the middle. Good Luck. Herman

Drill, As Brett said, the coach is a classic. However we are still talking about a coach that is 27 years old. (Of coarse we all wish we were 27 again.) There are alot of things that can also be that old. The refrigerator, the generator, the air conditioner. and more. All of these thing cost to replace. Now on the other hand if you can and enjoy working on projects it might be fun to buy and work on. Good Luck, Herman

Jim, Sorry for yours and your wifes loss. On the FMCA home page under chapters, search for conversion coaches and maybe MCI. Most all have web site to contact. They may be able to guide you to someone or place that might be able to help. You may also be able to google RV Sales,SC, look at their sites. Some will take consignments. Good luck and again sorry for your loss. Herman

Allan, Welcome to the Forum. Wyoming has so much to see. Where will you be coming from? That will determine what to see and what routes to take. Herman

graybeard101, Have you contacted the dealer where you purchased the unit? They may be able to walk you through the step you need. Good Luck Herman

dd69, did you hit your head many time on the AC units? Herman

Tigerpa, Welcome to the Forum. Your step cover is operated by a long slim air cylinder. I had the same problem with mine. The cylinder is secured by a bolt back under the step. It sound as if the bolt has broken. I was able to repair mine but it isn't an easy job. What I did was to remove the cylinder and put a long screw through the hole in the end of the cylinder. Secure it with not one but two nuts. I used the first tow secure the bolt to the cylinder and the second as a jam nut. I removed the broken screw which left a hole in the pan which I put the new bolt on the cylinder through the hole and secured it with again two nuts. Be sure to put the bolt through the cylinder so the air lines are on the correct side. Also be sure and replug the air lines before securing the cylinder. Hope this helps. Herman

Pat, Unless modified no front TV can be watched when the key is on. Yes inmotion satelite dishes will track the satelite while traveling and most RVs with a second TV, say in the bed room, can be watched. Many and I say many DVR Receiverd have travled 10 of thousand miles with no problems. Most are stored in a cabinet near the TV and are not mounted on anything to absorb shock. Since you have a door to your receiver that has the mesh on the door and is not solid you should be good to go. All that being said DVRs do go bad. Dish has at some time replaced all of my receiver at least once. Your roof mounted satelite dish, if it is a single LNB will not receive HD. There are some very good multi LNB open satelite dishes on the marke now, however they can not be used in motion. Herman

DebNMike, Since you are in North Texas check out mrolivers.com. Paul has several really nice coaches in stock and one of the best web site for viewing coaches. He is in McKinney on Hwy 380 East just before you get to Princeston. Herman

10-4 on the MAJOR Surgery. The rubber roof is the easiest to replace. But no matter what kind of roof you have, Every Thing and I mean Every Thing on the roof must be removed and then put back on. As 40X said get more opinions and most can be repaired. Herman

Kevin, Do I understand correctly that you run full strength Anti-Freeze? I have alway understood that full strength was not good for the cooling system. :huh:

Pat, one of the problems folks have with their DVRs is heat. If your DVR is in a closed cabinet with little or no air circulation. The DVR can get too hot. Do you leave yours on all the time (plugged in). Even if your DVR is turned off but still plugged in it can still be hot. Some folks have install a small computer cooling fan to keep the air flowing around the DVR. Hope this Helps, Herman

Ron, See my response to your last post. Herman

Ron, Are you speaking of a wire or tubing? If it is a wire, Get some paste flux and a soldering iron. Apply a small amount of flux to the wire and heat with the soldering iron. The flux will start ot boil and the solder should liquify remove the heat. The solder should shine when it cools. Remove the flux residue and you should be good to go. If it is tubing check as to the color of the filler metal. Pinkesh means Phos/Copper. If it is sliver looking then it is likely solder. If silver the process is the same as the wire but you will need a propane torch for your heat source. If it is Phos/Copper and the joint is copper to copper all you need is a high heat source, some sort of Oxy/Fuel would be good. (Note on Copper to Copper using Phos/Copper filler metal you do not need a flux) You may need some filler metal (Phos/Copper comes in 0, 2,3,5 or 15 percent silver). If you can get some 15% it should be good for repairing any of the other percents. Any time you solder a wire connection it is best to remove the Flux Residue. The flux can hurt the wireing if it is an acid based flux, water is OK to remove the residue. Hope this helps, Herman

Rich, F355197's coach is an Executive and one year newer. I have two of the Battery switches in the battery compartment. Coach and chassis. I to have the Battery switch in the step well wall. It is an off/on switch. For what ever the reason, I can turn all three off and I still have a small drain on my batteries. I haven't gone looking for the culprit since I keep it plugged in all the time it is in the barn. I have forgotten to plug it in and 4 or 5 days later I will find the batteries down. One thing I do have that came with my coach is a Wiring Diagram Book, it contains both 12 volt and 110 ac wiring. Problem is that the print is so small it is hard to follow the wires. I have scanned and enlarged pages before so I could follow flow to find a problem. I did have a problem with the front slides switch. When I first had the problem I pulled the switch to check it. I always draw a diagram of the wiring of any switch if there is more then two wires. After checking the switch putting it back together I got the slide in and we went on our way. The next time we used the coach the slide would not go out. Went through several different step. Finaly got out the book and I was sitting on the couch looking at the book and the switch and wala, I said to myself "my switch isn't wired that way". I moved the wires to match the book and guess what happened. The slide went out and back in with just the push of the switch. I seem that I can't even follow my own drawings. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it. Herman

Jack & Kay, I'm sure the company was suspicious since it was not run through the complete process. Your charge is still open when you sign it and leave the tip. Then it must be closed with or with out the tip. If it was not closed and run through I can understand your card company doing as they did. They were only looking out for your interest. Good for them. Herman

Two thing you don't want to miss, Mount Rushmore at night and the Buffalo Bill Historic Center in Cody, WY. Herman

gmoreno, Tow Bar, Base plates, wiring of LR for lights and Braking system. Cost for all depends on how much you can do yourself. Tow Bar $450 to $600. Base Plates $350 to $500. Wiring $150. Brkes System $600 to $1200. None of my estiments include labor. Herman

Go ahead Lee, everone else is watching to. :lol:

I don't want to change anything in my spelling. I like for you folk out there to say "I think I know what he said but I also think he has his own words". Herman

tj, Welcome to the Forum. If it wont come down then why would you need for it to go up? :lol: Sorry, What kind of shade is it? Is it manual or power? With a little more information there will be someone with your same shade that may have had the same problem. Good Luck, Herman