wolfe10

Bill, What do you find when you open the air tank drains-- oil? water? debris? Do you have an air dryer? I know SMC did build some coaches without dryers! Certainly contributes to contaminants in the air system.

There will be only one line from potable water tank to pump. It is only after the water pump that lines branch off to cold (blue in many coaches) and post-water heater hot (red in many coaches).

Sure sounds like another valve between that one and the tank. Can you trace the line from tank or is it buried?

I am going to suggest we lock this thread. One of the basic tenets of any successful Forum is no personal jibes/attacks. I don't see this thread moving forward--pretty well everything has been covered. Moderator

Just a suggestion on out of town searching/deal making (from prospective of someone who has done that multiple times and has done a LOT of coach mechanical inspections): Do not be afraid of dealing on an out of town coach. This assumes that you have narrowed down your short list and are certain that the coach will meet your needs if it turns out to be a good one. Get plenty of pictures. Ask for pictures of any of the negatives as well-- evidence of water leaks, body damage, etc. Ask for copies of maintenance records or if just receipts that they are available when you view the coach. Agree on a price. And VERY IMPORTANT: The agreed price in cash (you either have cash or financing already lined up) is subject to inspection, said inspection to be performed by XX date. Note: this does not limit you to your own inspection or one done by a 3rd party. Obviously, the sooner the date, the better from the seller's perspective. In most cases, the fact that you are flying/driving long distance to look at the coach will preclude the need for a deposit. If deposit is required, make sure it has the above "subject to" clause. Have the seller send you a photo of the front and back of the title showing that it is in his name (unless dealer). Sure, he can write VOID across what he sends you. But you want to confirm that he CAN give you clear title. If a lien on the title, have him provide you with the name of an officer at his lending institution so you can confirm ownership and payoff. Inspect the coach. If it passes your inspection, I strongly suggest you have a professional inspection done WITH YOU THERE. I used to do inspections and do written reports-- still do occasionally. But there is so much that can be better communicated by you "seeing what the inspector is seeing". Discuss what needs to be done now, what can wait, what you feel you want to tackle, what you want to hire out. Next is the actual transaction. Certainly have your financing lined up ahead of time. Get the name of an officer at YOUR bank so you can pull the trigger quickly if you decide to proceed. If no lien, easiest for both of you to go to either his bank or a branch of your bank, him with title in hand. If his bank: Have an officer at his bank contact your bank officer with drafting instructions. This happens very quickly these days. You are protected, as you will get the title and any paperwork you need in your home state to register it (you brought it with you) and it can be notarized by his bank. He is protected because he does not hand over keys until his banker said "the money is in his account". If at a branch of your bank, the bank can hand him a Cashier's check or wire transfer. No one should accept a Cashier's check unless it they see it come directly from a banker-- to easy to be forged. To me, the wire transfer confirmed by both party's banks is the safest for everyone. If a lien on it, your banker and the lender's banker can work out best way to proceed. Basically, if your banker his happy, you should be happy. Enjoy your new coach!

Dianne uses allstays camp&RV. Low clearance is one of the filters.

raptor4070, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Some coaches have a separate valve/lever for filling the potable water tank. No, water pumps have a check valve to prevent water from flowing back into the tank. If no one with a similar model chimes in, might give Monaco Corp a call with your vin. Suspect their records go back to 2003.

And, that would let the smoke out of all your appliances!

And a very good "already made" one-- even tells you in English if it is OK and if a problem, exactly what it is:http://50amppowerpal.com/

Sounds like he is using voodo math. The two are not closely related. A 30 amp RV outlet has ONE HOT, a neutral and ground. Provides up to 30 amps @120 VAC. A 50 amp RV outlet has TWO HOTS, a neutral and ground. The two hots are from opposite sides of the box, so 240 VAC between the hots. Provides up to 100 amps @ 120 VAC. I would DEFINITELY check the outlet with a voltmeter before plugging in!

Yup, with that cooler, all you will need is an additional hose from where the fuel return line connects to the engine to the cooler and then perhaps an extension hose to connect cooler "out" to the fuel return line. Suspect you will change the hose fittings on the cooler to match the engine's return line style fittings.

Sounds like time for a fuel cooler (AKA transmission cooler) in the return line. If in the air flow, doubt you would need a fan.

Kevin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by fully charging the batteries-- if built in converter or inverter/charger is not functioning, use an separate charger. Then load test them. As far as the 120 VAC, I would start by verifying that you do have good power (ONE hot, neutral and ground) at your house outlet. What works/doesn't work when on generator power?

Another option until you have your weights is to run PSI recommended on your GVWR plaque. The PSI on that plate is for each axle loaded to its Gross Axle Weight Rating. Yes, if you are overloaded, this will be too little PSI. We don't know what coach/chassis you have, so do not have a feeling for whether you are likely under or overloaded.

It has long been debated whether the mud flap at the very back help protect a toad or actually kick up more debris as they come in contact with the ground over bumps (being so far behind the rear axle, it doesn't take much of a bump to put them in contact with the pavement). One view is that good mud flaps behind the rear wheels are more effective than the large ones behind the coach, as the ones right behind the rear wheels do not contact the ground.

Bill, Not really a matter of "should not have". More a discussion of what is ideal air flow. With a side radiator, air is pulled in from the side of the coach and exits into the engine compartment. A guard/mud flap at the back of the engine room where most are mounted does reduce the vacuum effect as it creates a small high pressure area in front of the guard. Without the guard, there is more natural "vacuum" effect. Please don't read into this that side radiators should not have rear mounted guards. But they do NOT help with cooling package air flow.

Yes, as long as the guard is behind the intake for the cooling package/fan shroud it will help create a slightly higher pressure area in front of it. Suspect this benefit would be slightly reduced the further back the guard is positioned. But, I do not see the difference as significant.

GilDer, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure I have ever seen a full width guard installed just behind the rear wheels. Small ones on each side behind the duals is common. If, indeed it is full width and IN FRONT OF THE FAN SHROUD and this is a rear radiator coach, removing it would improve air flow to the CAC and radiator. A full width guard at the back of the coach improves air flow through the CAC and radiator on a rear radiator coach (and would diminish air flow if a side radiator).

I received an e-mail from Jon Walker, FMCA National Senior VP: "As is often the case, a lot of confusion arises when only part of an answer is provided. Short answer: FMCAssist does provide for the return of all coaches subject to a $5,000 dollar limit. Contract companies will provide drivers for coaches less than 10 years of age but will not drive older ones. FMCAssist will pay up to the same $5,000 limit for older coaches but the coach owner must make the arrangements for the driver." There is an allowance for air travel to get the driver to the coach, if necessary, as well as coverage for hotel expenses, all of which apply towards the overall $5,000 limit."

May be true for U.S. highways (don't know), but can tell you first hand that there are certainly state and county roads that do not meet those criteria.

Good find. Interesting that the single ride height valve that supplies both side's air bags works to fill one side but not the other??? Aren't they "T'ed" from ride height valve to both side's air bags?

abbottdan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Look under the seat-- likely to have a tag. Flexsteel is a very popular brand.

The 255/80R22.5 is pretty uniquely a Michelin size. Same for the 235/80R22.5.

Roy, Can they be replaced-- maybe. You would need to check with your shock manufacturer to see if they are available and what equipment is needed to press them in. But, from a practical standpoint, might be a good time to upgrade shocks. Coach weight (and, yours is toward the very light end of motorhome weights) should have no effect IF, repeat IF you are proper ride height. Yes, if ride height is low, shocks can bottom out and if too high, shocks can take a significant load on extension. Shocks are designed to work over the full length of suspension travel, but not bottom out over bumps or hang an axle from a shock as you "launch" from a big bump.

It will also have two wires going to it: 12 VDC positive and ground. Use a voltmeter between the two terminals. Have someone else activate the horn button and see what voltage reads. And, yes, if both electrical part and solenoid are working properly, you could feel a "click" as the solenoid opens.