wolfe10

Dianne uses allstays camp&RV. Low clearance is one of the filters.

raptor4070, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Some coaches have a separate valve/lever for filling the potable water tank. No, water pumps have a check valve to prevent water from flowing back into the tank. If no one with a similar model chimes in, might give Monaco Corp a call with your vin. Suspect their records go back to 2003.

And, that would let the smoke out of all your appliances!

And a very good "already made" one-- even tells you in English if it is OK and if a problem, exactly what it is:http://50amppowerpal.com/

Sounds like he is using voodo math. The two are not closely related. A 30 amp RV outlet has ONE HOT, a neutral and ground. Provides up to 30 amps @120 VAC. A 50 amp RV outlet has TWO HOTS, a neutral and ground. The two hots are from opposite sides of the box, so 240 VAC between the hots. Provides up to 100 amps @ 120 VAC. I would DEFINITELY check the outlet with a voltmeter before plugging in!

Yup, with that cooler, all you will need is an additional hose from where the fuel return line connects to the engine to the cooler and then perhaps an extension hose to connect cooler "out" to the fuel return line. Suspect you will change the hose fittings on the cooler to match the engine's return line style fittings.

Sounds like time for a fuel cooler (AKA transmission cooler) in the return line. If in the air flow, doubt you would need a fan.

Kevin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by fully charging the batteries-- if built in converter or inverter/charger is not functioning, use an separate charger. Then load test them. As far as the 120 VAC, I would start by verifying that you do have good power (ONE hot, neutral and ground) at your house outlet. What works/doesn't work when on generator power?

Another option until you have your weights is to run PSI recommended on your GVWR plaque. The PSI on that plate is for each axle loaded to its Gross Axle Weight Rating. Yes, if you are overloaded, this will be too little PSI. We don't know what coach/chassis you have, so do not have a feeling for whether you are likely under or overloaded.

It has long been debated whether the mud flap at the very back help protect a toad or actually kick up more debris as they come in contact with the ground over bumps (being so far behind the rear axle, it doesn't take much of a bump to put them in contact with the pavement). One view is that good mud flaps behind the rear wheels are more effective than the large ones behind the coach, as the ones right behind the rear wheels do not contact the ground.

Bill, Not really a matter of "should not have". More a discussion of what is ideal air flow. With a side radiator, air is pulled in from the side of the coach and exits into the engine compartment. A guard/mud flap at the back of the engine room where most are mounted does reduce the vacuum effect as it creates a small high pressure area in front of the guard. Without the guard, there is more natural "vacuum" effect. Please don't read into this that side radiators should not have rear mounted guards. But they do NOT help with cooling package air flow.

Yes, as long as the guard is behind the intake for the cooling package/fan shroud it will help create a slightly higher pressure area in front of it. Suspect this benefit would be slightly reduced the further back the guard is positioned. But, I do not see the difference as significant.

GilDer, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure I have ever seen a full width guard installed just behind the rear wheels. Small ones on each side behind the duals is common. If, indeed it is full width and IN FRONT OF THE FAN SHROUD and this is a rear radiator coach, removing it would improve air flow to the CAC and radiator. A full width guard at the back of the coach improves air flow through the CAC and radiator on a rear radiator coach (and would diminish air flow if a side radiator).

I received an e-mail from Jon Walker, FMCA National Senior VP: "As is often the case, a lot of confusion arises when only part of an answer is provided. Short answer: FMCAssist does provide for the return of all coaches subject to a $5,000 dollar limit. Contract companies will provide drivers for coaches less than 10 years of age but will not drive older ones. FMCAssist will pay up to the same $5,000 limit for older coaches but the coach owner must make the arrangements for the driver." There is an allowance for air travel to get the driver to the coach, if necessary, as well as coverage for hotel expenses, all of which apply towards the overall $5,000 limit."

May be true for U.S. highways (don't know), but can tell you first hand that there are certainly state and county roads that do not meet those criteria.

Good find. Interesting that the single ride height valve that supplies both side's air bags works to fill one side but not the other??? Aren't they "T'ed" from ride height valve to both side's air bags?

abbottdan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Look under the seat-- likely to have a tag. Flexsteel is a very popular brand.

The 255/80R22.5 is pretty uniquely a Michelin size. Same for the 235/80R22.5.

Roy, Can they be replaced-- maybe. You would need to check with your shock manufacturer to see if they are available and what equipment is needed to press them in. But, from a practical standpoint, might be a good time to upgrade shocks. Coach weight (and, yours is toward the very light end of motorhome weights) should have no effect IF, repeat IF you are proper ride height. Yes, if ride height is low, shocks can bottom out and if too high, shocks can take a significant load on extension. Shocks are designed to work over the full length of suspension travel, but not bottom out over bumps or hang an axle from a shock as you "launch" from a big bump.

It will also have two wires going to it: 12 VDC positive and ground. Use a voltmeter between the two terminals. Have someone else activate the horn button and see what voltage reads. And, yes, if both electrical part and solenoid are working properly, you could feel a "click" as the solenoid opens.

Closest is 265/75R22.5. You will need to look at all the dimensions to verify that they will work for you.

bburns8, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by locating the solenoid that sends air to the horns. While someone pushed the horn button, if no power to the solenoid, trace back in the electric diagram to find out why. If power to it, but solenoid does not send air to the horns, the solenoid is bad.

Roland, Just verify that you do have an engine diagnostic up front.

The port it plugs into is the engine diagnostic plug supplied by the chassis maker/coach maker. The plug (see link above) works with J1708 AND J1939 (basically just turn over the ScanGauge D plug).

Depends on where the coach maker put it/them. We have one in front (dash area) and one back by the engine. The front one is about 2.5' from where I mounted the ScanGauge D.