wolfe10

Been pretty well publicized. Here is a post from 2009 here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-issue-monaco-hr-safari-chassis/

Ya, but it would be great to loose some of the aerodynamic drag!

Mike, Yes, run the generator and roof A/C's. Even if the dash A/C is working perfectly, it will not keep up with 100 degree exterior temperature.

Yup, cool air IN THE ENGINE= more HP. But, cold ambient air= increased aerodynamic drag (ask any pilot about lift in cold vs hot conditions).

Before going to the effort, consulted an engineer at Caterpillar who I had worked with on writing the "Understanding Coach/RV Performance" document. He said that they (and suspect ALL diesel manufacturers) have published HP/torque and fuel consumption specs based on fuel of a a certain temperature. Don't recall exactly, but the number 80 degrees F sticks in my mind. Easy test to see how it affects performance on your coach: Do a 0-60 after driving for more than 1/2 day with fuel level around 1/4 or so. Fill up and do another 0-60. Suspect that even though you have added hundreds of pounds of fuel, that your times will be better on the new/cool fuel. Ya, feel the nozzle as you fuel to make sure the tanker truck did not just drop off a load after sitting in the 100 degree heat all day.

I just installed mine as the outermost piece of the cooling package (in front of CAC and radiator). This is with a side radiator coach. That location would not work on a rear radiator coach. Dianne made a cover for it with velcro so in freezing temperatures it would not super-cool the fuel. Just need the cooler and a length of fuel return hose to go from the engine to the cooler. Then use the original return line from there to tank. You could also install it up front in the windstream just forward of the tank. Would probably require two new hoses: one to extend the original line forward and one from the cooler back to the tank.

Correct, diesel does not require external venting. BUT (ya a pretty big but), if air flow is inhibited, you may need/want to add a fuel cooler (basically a transmission cooler in the return line), as fuel temperatures can rise from recirculated fuel and inadequate air flow over the tank. I had exactly this issue on our Foretravel which had the diesel tank in a bay (unibody). Before the fuel cooler, if below a 1/2 tank on a hot day, the tank would be almost too hot to touch. The transmission cooler I installed in the return line brought tank temperatures down almost to ambient.

Jeff, Yes, Roger Marble was pretty busy at the Convention-- between committee meetings (2 that I know of) and the seminars he gave, it did not leave much time. I believe he left on Saturday for another commitment. Brett

Jeff, If swapping front tires materially changed tracking, do not leave Springfield until you have had the tires inspected by a COMPETENT tire dealer. I would check with a couple of OTR truck repair facilities for their recommendation on a shop, or better the name of a tire expert.

Bruce, Fully charge them and then go to any place that sells batteries and have them LOAD TEST the batteries. Only accurate test is when they are fully charged. If wet cell batteries, make sure that the water (actually acid) level is correct. Add distilled water BEFORE charging if low.

wirite, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please keep us posted on their formal responses to this. Sounds like the current answer is "light years" from what is in the manual. Hope it works out as you hope. In the reply, they said " manual das not work. " Are they taking about manual transmission or owners manual???

Bill, I am not a fan of torquing most of them. Better idea is to torque until the gasket is compressed to half it's original height. Too loose OR crushed, it will leak.

Bill, Are you talking about torquing the roof A/C unit? Is that 50 INCH-lbs?

Thanks, Carl. Knew there was a familial relationship, but believe they were totally separate companies. Over the years, a reasonable number of father/sons in the RV business-- here are a couple of others that come to mind: The Fore family (Foretravel) Doyle family (Alpinlite/Alpine) Perlot family (Safari/Silverleaf) Tiffin (Tiffin/Tiffin and Vanleigh RV 5 wheels)

Am not aware of ANY connection between Alfa and Fleetwood.

hdsechols, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Of the non-functioning systems, certainly the dash A/C and wipers are in the ignition-controlled circuits. Power seats could be or could be in the house battery bank. What solenoid did you change? Was it the ignition solenoid? And, did you go back with the correct amp-rated solenoid and verify that it is a "constant duty" and not "intermittent duty" solenoid?

Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". Forum Meet & Greet Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building) See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

Be sure to put this on your schedule-- a great way to put a "face with a screen name". Forum Meet & Greet Thursday, Aug 4, 5:00 p.m. Seminar 8 (Young Building) See you there. Brett and Dianne Wolfe (aka Wolfe10)

Sorry, I do not know the answer. Were I to get into any major change, I would sure involve BOTH a senior Cummins tech (i.e. hands on with your engine family) AND a Cummins engineer.

Let me ask for everyone's help on something: Because many members use the "search" function to find answers to their questions, PLEASE, let's stick to the original topic. Having a good discussion of another topic than the original will not show up if someone is doing a search. Starting a new topic IS THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT. THANKS. Moderator

chudgens, Yes, I am sure they can get you in. Calling FMCA in the morning will get you a lot of details on the WHEN. As far as what is available, here is what was on the list, but again, need to call to conform availability of what you want. http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/west-springfield-2016/register-now.html

And, my 2003 ISL has a 180 degree thermostat and runs very close to that unless a long steep grade where it rises a few degrees until the fan (side radiator) turns on HIGH. Again, best advice is to call Cummins to determine what is correct for YOUR engine.

Fthorwart, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to call Cummins with your engine serial number. They can give you the proper operating temperature. If you have a side radiator and/or rear radiator with fan controller, temperature will vary between thermostatically controlled temperature and 5-10 degrees higher where the fan kicks to high speed. Cummins 800 343-7357 To locate your engine serial number: In general, Cummins engine serial numbers consist of eight (8) digits, e.g. 79012323 ISC and ISL: The dataplate is located on the top side of the gear housing.

Surge protectors are a reasonable upgrade. Not mandatory, but if you are not comfortable checking power before plugging in and monitoring it while on shore power, a reasonable idea. A tire pressure monitor system that monitors just PSI is absolutely fine. The Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT) applies. Said another way, in a given V (volume) when temperature rises, pressure rises. And visa versa. So, monitoring just PSI is perfect. And, do not get an oil sample until you are ready to change oil. Sending in new/clean oil is just a waste of $$-- it will always test good. Sure, if you see signs if issues such as coolant in the oil, that is a different matter. But, that is VERY rare on these larger diesels.

Yes, the wet kit is a MUST for the PTO-driven hydraulic pump. Hopefully it has not yet been damaged by lack of lubrication.