wolfe10

I would add to Roger's list: If a diesel engine, either the Caterpillar or Cummins Seminar If handling or ride concerns, the Suspension/Coach Ride & Handling Seminar Any of Gary Bunzer's seminars-- excellent

Again, no standard way these fans are wired. Some are temperature controlled (on at a certain temperature, off at lower temperatures). Others are wired to a switch, so manually controlled. But, looking up through the outside access door for the refrigerator should tell you very quickly how yours are wired.

Rich, While I guess you could fit 120 VAC fans, all I have seen are 12 VDC. Most were fit aftermarket by the coach maker or owner. Some are on a switch, some on thermoswitches. Easy to tell. Open the back (outside) refrigerator access door and determine if the fans are 12 VDC or 120 VAC. And, then what kind of switch is used.

Yup, agree with nighthawk. Don't recall any 2 stroke DD's in Safaris. Suspect you have the 8.2 liter V8, 4 stroke DD. Totally unrelated to the 2 strokes. You will need to find an "old timer" who still remembers this engine.

Just speculating, but wonder if your intake manifold temperature sensor is "heat soaking". That is, with significantly reduced air flow through the intake manifold, it may be picking up heat from other (hotter) metal parts of the engine. And, fueling will return as the engine approaches idle speed. There is just zero fueling at higher RPM's with throttle closed.

Tom, Yes, with exhaust brake or engine compression brake (the ISL is the only engine that could be ordered with either) EGT's will be lower. With a closed throttle, there is ZERO fuel injected. No fuel, no fire, less heat. On LONG grades, you can even notice that coolant temperature drops below thermostatic control, as a few minutes with zero fuel/zero fire WILL cool down the engine.

Rich, Have you actually observed intake temperatures rising when on the exhaust brake? I don't have an intake manifold temperature gauge, so just asking. But, not sure it makes sense. When throttle closed, there is zero boost. So no compression of air by the turbo and only a small amount of intake air of any kind (as the exhaust brake limits air movement in/out of the engine. Interesting to see of that theory translates in real life.

Correct. For two window Allison shift pads, the left window is the "go to" gear, so 6 if in forward. The right window is the gear you are actually in. There were several years when there was only a single window, and that was the "go to" gear. Yea bean counters!

I would address the two complaints you mention as follows: As we have all said, you need to set tire pressure based on actual weight. You could be way over-inflated, or your could be way overweight causing the suspension to bottom out. No point in speculating. Once you have the facts on this, we can look at other factors such as shocks. But start with the basics. To address the sensitivity to side winds I would add a rear track bar/panhard rod. It allows full up/down motion of the suspension but prevents side to side motion between axle and chassis. You already have one in front. BTW, if you will be attending the W. Springfield FMCA Convention this summer, STRONGLY suggest you attend the Suspension Seminar.

Again, my recommendation is for you to do the basics (weight, correct PSI) and give us the FACTS on what your weights are and what you want to "change" (i.e. ride harsh, difficulty steering in cross wind/when passing 18 wheelers, sway....) Said another way, there is NO "silver bullet" that works with all chassis/all coaches. Even on the same chassis, weight distribution and total weight can totally change what would help on YOUR coach.

tantsits, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might start by looking for chapters of interest in the Eastern Area: http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_fmcachaptersearch&view=list&Itemid= And in the International area (International area is for chapters with common interests and is not geography specific): http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_fmcachaptersearch&view=list&Itemid=

Most coaches with Allison transmissions have two fuses for the Allison-- one for memory and one for operation. They power the Allison ECU. It can be mounted to the shift pad or remotely via a cable. For exact wiring, check with your chassis maker, Monaco in your case.

Generator: Turn off and back on the two on-generator breakers. If still no 120 VAC to the coach AND YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 240 VAC: Check the generator to house wire connection. Could be just a loose connection. If not, with shore power disconnected, generator off, remove the lid to the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). Check for power "IN" from generator and then power "OUT" to 120 VAC main breaker box. From the "OUT" side of the ATS on, shore power and generator use the same components, so problem is not downstream of the ATS if you still have shore power working. Correct, if Allison shift pad does not show "N", the engine will not start.

Rich, Yes, I should have been more specific. But Allison shift pad illuminating, I mean with the key on, does the "N" appear? Because the dash HVAC fan works with key on (normally they are wired to only work with the ignition on-- confirm that for your coach), doesn't sound like the ignition solenoid. Said another way, if some things that only work with the ignition on, the ignition solenoid is working.

Some odd symptoms. The Allison shift pad only operative when lights are on suggests a loose or bad connection. Could be at the chassis battery end, but more likely under the dash.

jdfalco444, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. OK let's go through this step by step: What is chassis battery voltage? When you turn on the ignition do the following work: Allison shift pad illuminate? Dash HVAC fan work? This will tell you whether the ignition switch and ignition solenoid are working.

Sure, your 1/2 ton will pull it, said the trailer salesman!!!!!!!!

With depreciation being the biggest expense, the range of cost per mile is quite large.

No. Both engine and transmission are pressure lubricated. If you see the oil light go out immediately (as it should) you are good to go. In terms of gearing, it is easier on the drivetrain to back up the hill (reverse is geared lower than 1st). Only thing that is level sensitive is an absorption refrigerator. Do NOT start it until it is level.

Though it may be a mis-use of terms, Google "continuous duty solenoid" and you will get a lot of hits on the "beast".

We were at Lake Pines this spring-- held the Diesel RV Club Rally there. Nice family owned CG.

There are two kinds of disconnect switches: Mechanical-- in which case the switch is bad or you have a loose connection at the switch Electrical-- a switch used to open/close a solenoid. In this case the switch by the door sends a signal to the signal terminal of the solenoid. The switch could be installed on either the positive or ground side of the solenoid small terminals. In your case, since "working" the switch causes it to work/now work, I would start with the switch (again assuming you have the electrical type).

Assume you have checked here: http://www.vipwheels.com/technical-support

Lyle, Check battery voltage at the slide motor when someone stows the slide. Could be poor electrical connection, could be excessive resistance/slide binding.

Do you have a "smart wheel"? If not, what wheel-based control do you have?