wolfe10

captjima, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As Ray said, all modern electronic engines are sensitive to very low voltage. You need to find the source of the falling voltage. Could be as simple as a bad connection at a battery post. Could be a failing alternator. Troubleshooting is pretty basic and little different from a 1950's Chevy. Suggest you get it fixed before starting the engine again. Bad voltage/voltage spikes can damage electronics.

Russ, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The chassis maker (Spartan in your case) speced and installed the cooling system. I would call them and ask for their recommendation for a shop in your area. Assume you have checked fluid level and that the hydraulic fluid filters are not clogged/overly old. Assume if belt driven hydraulic pump is on and properly tensioned. That is three easy/inexpensive items to check.

Rich gave a pretty complete list. But, I would start by checking the front tires for RUN-OUT. Takes less than 5 minutes. Even a perfectly balanced, egg-shaped tire will do what you describe. If run-out more than about .035", get it corrected (loosen, rotate wheel and retorque lug nuts/rotate tire on rim/true the tire). Then balance the tire-- preferably balance the front tires on the coach.

Boy, that is the cheapest "coach fix" you could do!

Rich, Actually, it sounds like the opposite-- it starts when cold, but did not start "after being on the road for an hour. Stopped for fuel...."

Rich, I don't believe the FRED has on-board air. So, leaf spring suspension and hydraulic brakes. http://freightlinerchassis.com/component/option,com_servicecenters/Itemid,63/view,oem/ Click on "Previous Model Years" and then on the 2006 Allegro.

Marisa, I don't know if this link will work for you, but it is a breakdown of the fuel transfer pump for our 2003 ISL: https://qsol2.cummins.com/qs3/portal/parts/option_detail.html?path=/qs3/parts/99/z/06.05/fs9340

Marisa, Please tell us what engine you have.

The inspection should be on you-- and they should report to you. If you and the seller are "sharing" the inspector-- it puts him in an awkward position. You want him only in your team. Can the seller be there and/or go over the findings with you and/or the inspector-- sure. I do this all the time. As to whether it is reasonable for the seller to take it to an inspector-- that depends on the individual circumstances-- distance, his time, etc.

With bad Specific Gravity readings (assuming batteries are fully charged, the batteries ARE bad. Even one bad cell can cause a good alternator or inverter/charger to overcharge the remaining good cells to try (unsuccessfully) to achieve the proper voltage. Said another way, charging a 10 VDC battery (two 6 VDC batteries in series with one bad cell) WILL cause the other cells to overcharge. Replace the batteries. Then verify that the inverter/charger is properly programmed for your batteries: Correct type (wet cell/gel/AGM) Correct amp- hr (size of battery bank-- if 4 golf cart batteries, likely about 440 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC) Correct temperature (unless inverter/charger equipped with battery temperature probe. And the fact that both alternator and inverter/charger (shore power or generator) both cause overcharging lends more creditability to having a battery with bad cell.

Here is a link to the various FMCA Area events: http://www.fmca.com/chapters/area-rallies.html

SMARKSEL, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. From the horses mouth: http://cumminsengines.com/biodiesel-faq

tomboy257, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. On a previous coach, we indeed did choose to go with the XZE series. No issues on over 100,000 miles.

talgutbir, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your chassis maker (? Freightliner?) should be able to provide you with the wiring schematics for that circuit. If Freightliner, give them a call with your VIN: 800 385-4357

johncary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Wow-- never heard of that. How long have you had the coach? Exactly where is the crack? Any idea what caused it?

Roadmaster made a wide variety of chassis. Is yours the 8 outboard air bag suspension? 4 inboard air bag suspension? What series Monaco Corp product is it and what model year?

chanke, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what chassis you have. Is this a front or rear air bag that is leaking down? How long does it take to leak down? Do you have air leveling? Jacks?

Lyle, No problem. All it takes is the proper supervision. And I have someone who is VERY well qualified.

CJ, First question is whether this is the Caterpillar supplied sender/gauge or the chassis maker supplied sender/gauge. Most coaches have both.

creativepart, We are on the road right now, but recall in last month's FMCA Magazine an article stating that the new HRV is towable 4 wheels down with the manual transmission. It should also state that in the owners manual, but have not checked. Let us know what you find.

Yes, you want 50/50 vinegar/water. Sounds strange, but I used an old water heater drain plug. Drilled it to accommodate (tight fit) an 8' piece of hose-- basically, the largest diameter clear plastic hose that the plug will accommodate. Use a ladder to raise it to near roof level. Put a funnel in the top end of the hose to make pouring the vinegar easier. Open the pressure relief valve to allow air to bleed out as you pour in the vinegar. When five gallons are in, open the faucet nearest the water heater, turn on the water pump until the water heater is full/air bled out. I would turn on the water heater until it turned off. Let it sit for an hour to cool down and then drain and flush. If in the desert SW, this is an annual job. Hard water really does a number on the water heaters.

cwaldon, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Please let us know what year model and make chassis you have.

Sorry for the delay-- driving today. Yes, check the belt tension for the V belt that drives only the water pump and has a manually adjusted idler pulley. Check it from underneath on the driver's side very front of the engine/back of the coach. And, access the front of the CAC (inside fan shroud/between fan blades). Shine a strong flashlight at the CAC (much easier to see at night). Make sure the perimeter, particularly lower perimeter is as clean as the center (the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter. If both those are OK, next thing I would do is replace the thermostat(s). Caterpillar calls them regulators and recommends replacement every three years.

What information did they provide you that indicated that there was coolant in the oil. Was the pressure test a pressurization of the cooling system? Since you mention #3 cylinder in conjunction with the pressure test, was this a cylinder leak down test?

This discussion raises two interesting questions-- one easily answered, the other for those with an electrical engineering background: 1. With the key in the required position for towing, does the brake pedal (via the Brake Buddy) activate the brake light? A two minute check should answer that. And, if so, the EE question: 2. What will supplying the same voltage from two sources change in the light or that circuit?