wolfe10

Basic fact of business: Extended service policy providers are NOT in business to pay out more than they take in! As Bill said, if you can stand the risk, statistics are in your favor to have a fatter wallet if you do not buy them. Particularly true if you do your own maintenance.

Don't have Aqua Hot, so no advice on that. For generator (Onan 7.5 QD) running one roof A/C I figure .5 GPH.

Because the air bags on your chassis are inboard where they are protected from UV light, it is likely that they will be OK, but yes, a good idea to check. Also check RIDE HEIGHT, which is important, not only for ride and handling, but also longevity of suspension and driveline components. You can get the ride height specs for your chassis by calling your chassis maker (?Freightliner?) with our VIN. Adjustment is easy, but do not do it without proper safety stands! Another, often neglected component of the air brake/air suspension system is the AIR DRYER. How long since it was serviced or replaced? If you will be at the Madison FMCA Convention, come to the "Suspension, coach and handling" seminar. I will be going over a lot of this kind of stuff.

RJ, In addition to sealing the dryer vent and around the engine compartment, the other major thing you can do is insure that you have positive air pressure inside the coach instead of a vacuum. Run with the dash HVAC on outside air, not recirculate. Do not have any windows or roof vents open, as they will lower inside air pressure. Also verify that you do not have an exhaust leak. Check for soot between head and exhaust manifold, manifold and turbo, turbo all the way out the side of the coach.

It is use of the coach WITHOUT running the generator that calls for a larger battery bank. And, 4 U2200 golf cart batteries will give you a TOTAL of about 450 ah @ 12 VDC. And, for long battery life, do not discharge below 50%. That means that even when brand new and fully charged, you would want to recharge after using about 225 amp-hrs of power.

If you do not camp without shore power or plan to run the generator, the single 12 VDC battery may be enough-- what size/group is it? There is a wide range of capacities, all 12 VDC from small car batteries (not deep cycle) to 8D starting and 8D deep cycle batteries-- BIG differences. And, were you to change to a pair of 6 VDC batteries, you would need a battery cable to go from the negative post of battery #1 to the positive post of battery #2. Then the positive wire to house to the positive terminal of battery # 1 and the coach ground wire to the negative terminal of battery #2. Think of those two 6 VDC batteries in series as "a 12 VDC battery in two pieces". If you did a lot of dry camping, yes, four 6 VDC batteries would be a good idea.

Chopper500, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is unusual for the tires to be so badly worn (unless just let go) that they could not be rotated and used on one side in back. And, no balancing weights of any kind on the front wheels-- interesting? Would be interested in a "before/after" of the alignment. And, even if you have to buy two tires (and have them balanced), and alignment, should be no where near $4000.

Roy, No, to calculate towing capacity, subtract loaded weight of motorhome from GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating), not GVWR. Be aware that this may not be the limiting factor on towing. The LESSER of the number above, the hitch rating or towing capacity (often stated as a separate number) dictates maximum towing capacity.

Dave, Your choice. But, you HAVE to do the trailing arms. Yes, the guys at Source are very good, and their trailing arms look more robust than the Monaco ones.

Dave, I would ask Source Engineering for the name of a service facility near you. If they don't have anyone to recommend, I would ask Monaco the same question. Third choice (and still a very reasonable one) is any shop that works on truck suspensions. There is nothing technical about replacing the trailing arms IF you have the right equipment-- everything is just BIG and HEAVY. This is a safety issue and I would not drive it except to a shop to get this work done. If you bought it from a dealer, I am really surprised that they did not know about this safety issue and fix it before selling it. If you are not happy with the ride and handling after driving it for awhile, yes consider the ride enhancement kit.

Cliff, Until they find the root cause everyone is just speculating on the cause AND who should pay. Sure, it could be related to modifications you have made and so you may have to pay. But, if they find the root cause is not related to the modifications, it should be covered by the regular warranty. Bottom line, you should agree to pay for the diagnosis. After the root cause is determined, then and only then can/should the decision be made in terms of who pays.

We have the PressurePro on this coach as well as the last one. Again, make sure whatever system you get will accommodate all motorhome AND toad tires.

First question is are you towing? If so, you will want a system that will cover your motorhome AND toad!

Ken, Unless you are traveling WAY off the beaten path, two spares is likely one too many. We always carried one when we traveled in Mexico, as our size was not common down there. But, in over a quarter million miles, have never needed a spare. YES, I take good care of the tires and have a tire monitor system!

Best suggestion-- empty water tanks and go over any local scales and take the weight receipt. In Texas, you have to do it to register a motorhome. No big deal-- every county tax office should have a list of local scales.

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sorry, I can not answer your specific question. If you can't find it and no one else with the same model posts an answer, call Monaco with your VIN: 877-466-6226 BTW, be sure to check this trailing arm issue: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

Yup, two very "unrelated" issues here: Mechanical considerations. Driver considerations. Irrespective of how good a coach is mechanically, if this is your first experience with mountain driving, this is not the "beginner slope". As posted before, there are TWO aspects to whether a particular road is "OK". One is coach. The other (and more important) is the DRIVER. If this is your first heavy vehicle/mountain driving and you are not already comfortable with driving your vehicle in real mountains, seek an alternate route. If you have "been there, done that" go for it.

jleamont, Good write-up. Sure hope you did this correctly. You are supposed to wear your LEAST FAVORITE outfit-- even if you got it for Christmas 2014! You are free to blame me for ruining that purple pants suit! With the amount of "light chocolate milk" you got out, I suspect air flow through your cooling package will be a LOT better. So less overheating and lower intake manifold temperatures. Good work.

Suggest you call Michelin Corporate to verify delivery on tires. That will give you the ability to better evaluate your options. http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/help/contact.html

You might want to do a search (search box upper right of each page) in the towing section for "Ford Edge". Lots of posts on this vehicle.

Here is a link to that discussion : http://community.fmca.com/topic/288-cleaning-the-radiator-and-cac/

Yes, the two most common causes of issues are OVERHEATING and FUEL FLOW RESTRICTION. So, as Rich asked, was there an overheating issue or was engine coolant temperature within normal range. When was the last time the (likely 3) fuel filters were replaced? A clogged filter will sure cause your symptoms.

Herman, Thursday, July 30 11:30 a.m. Ask The Experts: Seminar 1 (Gary Bunzer, Walter Cannon and I all are on the panel) Thursday, July 30 1:15 p.m. Suspensions-- Coach Ride & Handling: Seminar 7 Friday, July 31 1:30 p.m. Caterpillar/Diesel Engine Maintenance Seminar: Seminar 7 Note: 90% of this seminar applies to all diesel engines, irrespective of brand.

Yes, as Herman said, check the weight of the motorhome and everything you will carry in it (weigh after loading to verify) is less than the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and that the front and rear axle are less than their GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Also, that that weight plus the weight of your Jeep are less than GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating).

Tax is but one component of fuel pricing. We are more interested in the "net" cost. We absolutely use http://then.gasbuddy.com/ You can scroll along your day's route in less than 2 minutes, seeing the price of fuel all along your route. OR, you can determine the least expensive gas/diesel in a whole state (see who is having a price war). Who knows, may be very near your route. OR, you can determine the least expensive gas/diesel in a particular city. I often copy and paste the address into https://www.google.com/maps so that I can look at overhead and street view to make sure our coach will fit. I rarely go 2 blocks out of my way, but can often save $.30-$.50/gallon by shopping.